Mt. Ikoma (生駒山) looms over Ōsaka, and there is a cable car to the summit. Since the Edo Period, Hōzanji (Treasure Mountain Temple) has been a unique pilgrimage destination devoted to a Japanese version of the Hindu elephant god Ganesh. The mountaintop has a sheer cliff where ascetic practices evidently took place. Staff told me in Japanese that the visible statue is Miroku (Maitreya in Sanskrit, the Future Buddha), placed up there 350 years ago, no doubt with difficulty. Seeing statues of Kūkai amid the syncretism (mixing) of Buddhism, Shintō, Hinduism, and folk religion like the Seven Lucky Gods, and the sacred mountain, I guessed correctly that it was a Shingon sect temple. The university where I taught before retirement, near Ōsaka Castle, although Christian, starts its college song with an ode to Mt. Ikoma, harking back to prehistoric mountain worship.

Free publications: japanned.hcommons.org

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Why Visit Hokkaido

Hokkaido is a large island located north of Honshu. Here is a place where you can immerse yourself in Japanese nature, culture and cuisine. It is also the best place in Japan to get away from over-tourism. We did not even bother going to Sapporo.

Hokkaido is a nature lover’s dream with its volcanoes and lakes, hot springs and hikes. We spent 14 days in Hokkaido. We have divided our trip into two posts: one for northeast Hokkaido and this post for southwest Hokkaido. Each one takes a week.

Author & Photographer: George Mitchell

George’s Bio

Our advice is not influenced by affiliate links — we have none. Our itineraries, photos, and advice come from three years of travelling around the world, including three months in Japan. We are avid hikers, nature lovers, and photographers. We are students of art and architecture, culture and cuisine.

All the sights in this itinerary can be found on our custom Japan Hokkaido Google Map. The points of interest are appended with their Google Maps Ratings, which range from G0 to G5.

Japanese Names

Name suffixes show the type of building. So “ji”, “dera” or “tera” is a generic Buddhist temple. The suffix “in” is a Buddhist temple in a garden, especially a Zen temple. For more useful information, see the Guide to the Japanese Language.

Generally, I write the names of sights in Japanese (Romaji) because asking for directions with English names will be futile. Writing Kōmyō-ji Temple is redundant, but sometimes I add “temple” for those readers who missed this section.

Southwest Hokkaido

Mashū-ko Wintertime, CC BY SA Wikipedia

On October 3rd, we left Sounkyo Gorge to explore southwest Hokkaido. This is one region in Japan where a rental car would let you easily see all the sights. We had headed to Hokkaido right away to hike before it got too cold or snowy. Our northernmost destination, Sounkyo Gorge, is at the same latitude as Toronto, Canada.

Kono Mitsuo

George & Dr. Mitsuo Kono, Aso-san, Kyushu

Dr. Mitsuo Kono is a renowned Japanese physicist celebrated for his pioneering work in plasma physics and mathematical social sciences. Mitsuo is a Professor Emeritus at Chuo University.

Basalt Columns, Sounkyo Gorge, Daisetsuzan NP

We met Mitsuo at Sounkyo Gorge. He had gone to Sapporo for a physics conference. We had long conversations with Mitsuo about various aspects of Japanese culture. While many things have changed over the years, some things stay the same.

Education and Research

Mitsuo got a research grant from the British Council. He found it difficult when he lived in England for three years. He was taken aback when colleagues said his research was wrong. He felt his personality was attacked.

In Japan, students don’t work as hard. They are not encouraged to think or be independent. Mitsuo can never directly say a student’s paper was useless. He must suggest they do something else. His daughter really liked England – she learned English. She found it difficult when she returned to the Japanese school system. She had to learn the Kanji script. She was expected to do things the same way at the other Japanese. But, in England, she learned to think independently.

Social Values

In Japanese society, maintaining harmony is a top priority. They must be indirect when speaking to someone. He learned in the West that he had to be assertive. Women in Japan are not assertive, and that is why there is a low divorce rate. Women stay at home while men work all day and play all night. Men concentrating on their work has helped Japan modernize. Traditionally, a wife serves the meal and eats afterward, but not his wife. They talk at mealtime. Parents don’t understand.

But greater technology does not mean happiness. His wife is anti-technology. She is an artist: drawing, sculpting, and weaving. She also has a small garden. She is considered crazy by other Japanese. Even parents can’t understand why they are so open at home!

Japan is a very homogeneous society. The Japanese like to be among the Japanese, so they travel in groups. Recently, there have been more suicides and greater violence against parents by children! Too much pressure.

Trade and Food

Rice Fields, Kitami

Japan imports 50% of its food from other countries. In many trade agreements, especially with the USA, Japan has to import food in exchange for allowing its exports. Japan made a choice between technology and agriculture, between industry and the environment.

As the government buys the crops, it can dictate what the Japanese will buy and pay. Thus, Japanese food is expensive to force people to buy imported food. Some fruit growers could not compete with cheap, foreign fruits. So, they went into producing expensive, high-quality fruits — like huge apples and pears. Japanese people love sweets, resulting in bad teeth. The Japanese are fond of coffee, and coffee milk is very common. You can even buy coffee bubble gum.

On the 3rd October, we left Sounkyo and reached Iwamizawa by noon. We sat down to have some lunch of tuna fish. A woman came out of her house to give us a litre of milk and two eggs! In Sapporo, we had no luck hitching out, so we took a bus to the outskirts. We got off the freeway at Chitose. It was late, so we hitched under a street lamp to Shikotsu-Ko.

Shikotsu-Ko

Sounkyo – Shikotsu-ko 257 km, 3:17 hrs.
Shikotsu-ko – Eniwa-dake Trail 9 km, 0:10 h

Bus: Chitose – Shikotsu-ko 28 mins JPY 500 – 650 (USD)
Tomakomai – Shikotsu-ko 2:12 hrs JPY 2094 – 3277

Shikotsu-ko View, Shikotsu-Toya NP

Shikotsu-Ko is the second deepest (363 m) caldera lake in Japan.

Shikotsu Kohan

Shikotsu Kohan is the resort town where you can stay overnight. We stayed at probably the best youth hostel (YH) in Japan overall. The tatami mat bedrooms were really nice with comfortable, mould-free futons. There was no heating, but the quilts were warm enough.

The atmosphere was quiet. Classical or folk music was played just before meals! In the cozy lounge, they served tea and snacks every night. It was conducive to meeting people. Etsuko Kitsukawa, the hostel mama-san, was very dynamic. Her son was very helpful and spoke some English. They tell people what to do with jokes. A guest translated it into English.

The food was very good. Because we arrived late, they allowed us to eat with the hostel mama-san! We had a delicious fish soup pot with large snails

Eniwa Dake Trail

Distance: 4 km
Time: 6 hrs RT

Eniwa-dake Trail, Shikotsu-ko Map

Shikotsu Kohan is on the east side of the lake (marked #8 to #12 on the map). A toll road (marked #6 on the map) goes along the edge of the lake for about 10 km. We continued beyond the Poropinai Campground (marked #5 on the map) at the end of the lake. Past the parking area, we signed in at the registration hut. Eniwa-dake is marked #1 on the map.

Autumn Trees, Shikotsu-ko

At 10:16 h, we began the trail. There were no Romaji signs until much later. The first section was an easy grade. We crossed a dry stream bed a couple of times. We reached the very small “2000 m” sign at 11:17 h (0:56 hrs walking time).

Corinne on Eniwa-dake Hike, Shikotsu-ko

Then the trail became very steep with slippery dirt, but little to hold onto. We used the ropes to pull ourselves up. Corinne did not like them. There were about 4 rope sections. We completed the rope section at 12:12 h (1:55 hrs walking time).

Shikotsu-ko from Eniwa-dake

Not long afterwards, we reached the rim with good views of the steaming crater, Shikotsu-ko, and green, furrowed Fuppushi-dake. We stopped here for a while. Then we walked uphill over coarse lava. We reached the very small “3000 m” sign at 13:12 h (2:14 hrs walking time).

Shikotsu-ko from Crater, Eniwa-dake

We saw our first views of Okotanpe Lake (marked #22 on the map). The beautiful green lake was partially hidden. We climbed up to the rim again with more views towards Shikotsu-ko. Then there was a small sign on a tree noting 2 trails to the top. One to the right descends a bit, circles the rocky area and climbs back up to the top. We didn’t see it, so we continued on.

Lake Okotanpe View, Eniwa-dake

We came to an Iron Rung Ladder (3.6 km) draped over a vertical rock. It was difficult to get one’s foot on the rungs. There were also ropes to hang onto. Corinne did not like it at all and didn’t want me to go up it either. Corinne stayed while I went on. There were only 7 rungs to climb, so it was soon over. It took about 10 minutes to reach the pinnacle viewpoint. The volcanic plug is marked on the map with a triangle ∆1320, which means 1320 m (4340 ft) asl. I reached the volcanic plug at 13:35 h (4.0 km 2:47 h walking time).

From here, I saw a full view of Okotanpe Lake (G4.0) nestled in an amphitheatre with a volcanic peak behind it. Beautiful forested hills flowed beyond the classic volcanic plug. A volcanic plug, also called a volcanic neck or lava neck, is a volcanic object created when magma hardens within a vent on an active volcano.

It was more difficult descending the rung ladder as I couldn’t see the next foothold. The rung ladder hangs flat against the rock. The constant descent was very tiring on the feet, especially due to the very loose rocky track.

Autumn Scene, Shikotsu-ko, Shikotsu-Toya NP

The rope sections weren’t that difficult. We departed the summit at 14:45 h and arrived at the lake at 16:45 h.

A Birthday Party

Corinne Eating Supper, Shikotsu-ko Youth Hostel

Because a large group came, the YH had a special meal today. But Etsuko-san, the hostel mother, decided to turn it into a birthday party! Before the meal, she told the Japanese guests that it was Corinne’s birthday. Everyone sang “Happy Birthday to You”, then Etsuko-san gave Corinne presents — two Shikotsu-Ko cups and greeting cards. Then everyone clinked their wine glasses, drank and ate!
George & Corinne Eating Supper, Shikotsu-ko Youth Hostel
It was a great meal with so many different things – liver, onion, chicken skewers, vinegar-flavoured rice, delicious soya eggs (they were brown instead of white), fried potatoes with a coating of sugar. Afterwards, everyone took turns singing, including me.

Moss Canyon

Moss Canyon, Koke no Dōmon, Shikotsu-ko

Koke no Dōmon or Moss Canyon was located on the north side of Lake Shikotsu. Koke no Dōmon has been closed to the public since 2013 due to safety concerns—specifically, the risk of rockfalls and wall collapses. Instead, you can visit Kaede-sawa Moss Gorge (or Moss Corridor). It is accessible via guided tours from Shikotsu-ko Onsen.

Moss Canyon, Koke no Dōmon, Shikotsu-ko

There was not enough sun (14:46 h) to bring out the greenness. It was a very pleasant but very short 10-minute walk. We saw potholing along the 14 m high canyon. One trail was closed as there were too many bears on Fuppushi Dake.

Noboribetsu Onsen

Shikotsu-ko – Noboribetsu 71 km, 1:00 h

Jigokudani, Noboribetsu, Shikotsu-Toya NP

We walked up the road past the Daiichi Takimato Hotel. The nicest viewpoint was on the right-hand path. We had lunch on a bench; otherwise, you don’t need to spend so long. There was a nice view of sulphurous, steaming hills with a hot stream twisting in between. Red tints among the green foliage.

Jigokudani, Noboribetsu, Shikotsu-Toya NP

Jigokudani, which means “Hell’s Valley”, does indeed look like hell. Volcanic gases spout from the cracks in the rocks, with the smell of rotten eggs (sulphur). Billowing white steam hung over the simmering hot springs.

Oyunuma

We walked up a paved path from Jigokudani to Oyunuma. We crossed the highway on a short dirt road past some stone Jizo statues. Oyunuma was just a boiling lake far below, beneath a rocky outcrop, with some red foliage. We continued up the highway to the Kuttara-Ko viewpoint along the highway, which was not worthwhile. The lake had no special colour. Kuttara-Ko is so large, you can’t see it all.

Daiichi Takimoto Onsen

This is a must-do! It was quite strange to have mixed nude bathing at first, but most people held towels in front of them. Corinne was the only young woman in the public area. There were a few more in the women-only pools. There were several large pools, each with a different temperature, colour, and steaminess. In some pools, it was too opaque to see through. The best part was the cool whirlpool; the water jets were very relaxing.

We had trouble hitching out at 16 h – we waited over an hour. A two-year-old bowed to me and he said konnichiwa! So cute!

We stayed in the Noboribetsu Kannon-Ji YH, a small, clean hostel (25 beds). It was very cold except under the quilts. The best things were the friendly house parents and the superb food (one of the best in Japan) – a stew with bamboo shoots, delish meatballs, bean sprouts, and tofu, which melted like butter in our mouths.

Toyako

Noboribetsu – Toyako p 59 km, 0:51 hrs.
Bus to Stn ca. 7 mins Train: Noboribetsu – Toyako Stn 1:49 h JPY 2168 – 3329

Haka-jima, Toya-ko

There was a good lookout of Toya-ko (lake) along the road from Toyako (the town) and the onsen. We loved the view of the whole lake and Haka-jima, the central island. Jima means island. There is no need to go all around the lake. We ate lunch at a picnic table here.

Showa Shinzan

Showa Shinzan, Toyako

Shōwa-shinzan (G4.3) is probably the most interesting sight in the Toya-ko area. The multi-hued outcrop steamed heavily. There was also a good viewpoint of the active volcano, Usu-san. Usu-san has stood next to the lake for 20,000 years.

Showa Shinzan, Toyako

Shōwa refers to the era in Japanese history during the reign of Emperor Hirohito, from 1926 to 1989. Shinzan means new mountain. Showa-Shinzan emerged from a farm field in 1943.

Toyako Volcano Science Museum

Hours: 09:00 to 17:00
Fees: JPY 600 (USD 4.20)
Showtime: 09:30 to 16:10 every 40 mins on the 2^nd floor
Bus: Tokayo Stn to Tokayo VC 7 min JPY 240 – 340

The Toyako Visitor Center and Volcano Science Museum are part of the Shikotsu-Toya National Park. There are videos and exhibits about the year 2000 eruption of Usu-san and its impact on the local community. Multilingual pamphlets are available

Toyako Science Museum Ticket Stub

The museum is very worthwhile. The best part was the very realistic movie of the eruption. It was most unnerving. We didn’t know that there were lightning flashes inside a volcanic smoke plume! Or that a volcanic eruption caused earthquakes. The movie seating area moved with the heavy sound vibrations. You literally felt the power of nature.

1^st floor: photos of volcanic phenomena around Japan and many shops; toilets

2^nd Floor: exhibits of damaged cars, excellent photographs, theatre

3^rd floor: small exhibit of antique tools and clothing; toilets

Toya YH

Islands in the Lake, Toya-ko, 94-27

The YH gave us our own tatami room without us asking. The room was very cold – no heat. We got to use the next-door onsen. It was quite large, very hot, and the best part of the hostel. It was available from 15:00 to 21:30!

Supper was so nicely presented in a lacquerware box. We enjoyed the large quantities and many different kinds of food: a feast for the eyes as well as the mouth.

There were only three other guests, all Japanese. Talking to them was like pulling teeth, even though one spoke English well. They spoke at great length among themselves.

Hakodate

Toyako – Hakodate 163 km, 2:17 h
Train: Toyako – Hakodate 1:50 h JPY 4300 – 6000

Hakodate is a small city with a population of 239,813. We visited the Tourist Info near the Train Station. One woman spoke a little English and was very helpful.

This was the home city of Yoshihiko Aketa, who had driven us to Akan-Ko (lake). He had invited us to visit his family when we came to Hakodate. We were unsure whether to follow up on this kind invitation. But we decided we very much wanted to meet a Japanese family.

We explained to the tourist office that Yoshihiko had given us his phone numbers and address. She first called Yoshihiko at his work office and left a message. Then she called his home number, and his wife, Kimiko, answered. It was so typical that he had not even told her he had invited us to visit! For a few minutes, she tried to find out how we knew Yoshihiko. Even though she didn’t know who we were, Kimiko said to come over.

Aketa Family

Meanwhile, Yoshihiko received a message from his office and came to pick us up. Fortunately, we already knew about Japanese customs. We removed our hiking boots at the door and put on the guest slippers. You also have to change into another pair of slippers to use the bathroom. We also knew some basic words like konnichi-wa, hello.

In the late afternoon, all four children came home from school. The look of shock when they saw gaijin (foreigners) in their house was priceless. Unfortunately, this was before the cell phone era, so we did not get photos.

We used an English-Romaji dictionary to communicate during those pre-mobile app days. It’s amazing how powerful a dictionary is. All Japanese people are educated in all four Japanese written scripts, including Romaji (our Latin alphabet).

Japanese Supper

Uppermost on Kimiko’s mind was what these gaijin would like to eat. She was certain that all we would eat was Western food. With the help of the dictionary, we told her we love Japanese food.

What is really unique is the arrangement of Japanese food. Kimiko placed small plates and bowls with different foods on each. We used our chopsticks to transfer small amounts to our plates. Each bite was a new taste. We had small, sweet preserved plums, delicious dried cuttlefish, and dried sweet crab. Tea was served from a small teapot, and the cup was changed with each new pouring. There were two other oishī delicious dishes:

Miso shiro soup is made with fermented bean paste with umami, dried wakame seaweed, tofu, and dashi broth – a savoury base made from kombu (kelp) and bonito flakes.

Inari zushi is dashi-seasoned sushi rice stuffed into a pouch made from deep-fried tofu skin called abura-age. This is simmered in a sweet and savoury broth, often flavoured with soy sauce, sugar, and dashi.

Fun fact: this dish is named after the Shinto deity Inari. Inari Ōkami is the Shinto deity of rice, tea, sake, fertility, and prosperity. Kami means deity, and O means great. Need we stress how important he was to an agrarian economy! Kitsune are special foxes that are messengers of Inari. They are said to love fried tofu. That’s why you’ll often see these little pockets offered at Inari shrines in Japan.

Japanese Breakfast

A Japanese-style breakfast is quite different from that in the West. We had miso shiro soup with small amounts of marinated vegetables, like chrysanthemum flowers, served in small saucers. A small sardine was fried lightly, with rice served with a raw egg on top. This is common in dishes like tamago kake gohan (Japan) or bibimbap (Korea), where the heat from the rice gently cooks the egg when stirred in.

Yoshihiko

Yoshihiko Aheta making Onigiri, Hakodate 91-22

Yoshihiko was then a 41-year-old drug salesman. He wasn’t satisfied with his job as he was away for five days every second week. He was very nervous, eager to please, and wanted to show us everything.

Yoshihiko means splendid or excellent – a baby who is destined for greatness!. He was not a typical Japanese male. He made the picnic lunch for our Sunday drive – onigiri (cooked salmon inside a rice ball wrapped in nori seaweed), coffee, cocoa and the most delicious Japanese apple-pears – these were juicy, crisp, and very sweet. One of the best fruits we have ever tasted!

He said several times that he and his wife quarrel. He wanted to know what our first impression of him was – he said his wife wanted to know.

Kimiko

Kimiko Aheta, Hakodate

Kimiko was then 36 years old. She loved art (looking more than collecting) and had several art books. She was not a typical Japanese woman. She was very lively, expressive, and dominant. Kimiko means valuable or beautiful child. Girls were often named with a “ko” (子, “child”) suffix at the end of the given name.

Personality Types

Using a dictionary, she said Japanese define personalities into two basic types:

Yōki (陽気) means cheerful, lively, or sunny — like herself. Someone outgoing, upbeat, and sociable might be called yōki.

Uchiki (内気) means shy, reserved, or introverted — like Yoshihiko. It’s used for people who are quiet, hesitant, or uncomfortable in social situations.

Another classification is Kawaita (dry), which means people who are considered rational, detached, and pragmatic. They tend to be more logical, less emotionally reactive, and sometimes even sarcastic or ironic.

Nureta (wet) people are seen as emotional, sentimental, and expressive. They might be more empathetic, sensitive to others’ feelings, or prone to nostalgia and romanticism.

Children

Aheta Family, Hakodate, 95-07

The children did not speak any English. We communicated through gestures, smiles, and a dictionary. The reserve of the children eased as they became more familiar with us. Masato was a 13-year-old who collected keychains and stamps – so did his parents. We happened to have some Canadian stamps that we gave to him. The name Masato means a person who adheres to social norms and possesses a strong moral character.

Makiko was an 11-year-old who seemed sensitive. She was having orthodontic treatment. Depending on the kanji character used to write this name, it could mean “rejoice,” among many other options.

Fukiko was a 9-year-old who played amicably with Shihoko, a 6-year-old who is by far the most lively and expressive. The name Fukiko means a noble child blessed with wealth or fortune. Shihoko means aspiration, ambition, or goal.

Exploring Hakodate

The next day was a work day, so we decided to explore Hakodate on our own. Kimiko was very worried that we would get lost in Hakodate. Kimiko brought us to the bus stop for the correct bus route. Before we got in the bus, she had tears in her eyes and said “shinpai, shinpai” (worried) as we boarded the bus to downtown. Earlier, we had told her we were on a three-year round-the-world trip and had many experiences in countries where we were illiterate.

Boni Moriya-mae

Down the street from the Train Station, we dropped into the Boni Moriya-mae dept. store to pick up lunch supplies. In the basement was a superb supermarket with ready-to-eat meals and many free tasters. We also looked through the liquor section. We found Geikkeikan sake and Umeshu. The latter is a sweet and tangy Japanese plum liqueur made by steeping green ume (plums) in alcohol and sugar. It is a delicious plum liquor we had at the Aheta home.

Hakodate Orthodox Church

Hours: 13:00 – 16:00: closed in the mornings Admission: Free

Hakodate Orthodox Church, Hakodate

We walked south and found the Hakodate Orthodox Church (G4.2). The onion domes were a big surprise. Why was there a Russian Orthodox Church here?

Hakodate’s natural harbour and proximity to Russia made it a strategic location for trade and diplomacy. Vladivostok is about 740 km (460 mi) from Hakodate as the crow flies!

The Russian Orthodox Church was founded in 1859 by the Russian Consulate. The building showcases Byzantine-style architecture with white walls and iconic green domes. It had a very nice carved and painted altar. It was not too special for Westerners, but we had not realized the significance yet.

Old Public Hall of Hakodate

Prefecture Government & Old Public Hall, Hakodate

On the left is the Prefecture Government Office (G3.9). A prefecture is like a province of Japan. On the right, on a hill, is the Old Public Hall (G4.2). The photo was taken from Motomachi Park. But why is there so much European architecture here?

The Commodore Perry expedition brought four (1853) and seven (1854) USA ships to Tokyo and Yokohama, respectively. He demonstrated their firepower with cannon salutes. He demanded that Japan open to foreign trade and establish a coaling station for their steamships.

The Tokugawa Shogunate had kept Japan isolated for 260 years! The Tokugawa Shogunate and the feudal system ended in 1868. The Meiji Restoration shifted power to Emperor Meiji, modernized Japan, and introduced capitalism. Hakodate was the first Japanese port to open. The city became a magnet for international visitors and settlers. Most gaijin lived in designated areas for foreign residents.

The Foreign Cemetery

Jizo with Fred Sports Shirts, Foreign Cemetery, Hakodate

At its peak, the foreign population included British, French, Russian, American, Chinese, Danish, and German residents. The Foreign Cemetery (G3.6) was not worthwhile, but there are always interesting things to see.

Jizō statues were dressed in red or even branded sports shirts like “Fred Sports”. These Jizō figures are Buddhist guardians of children, travellers, and the souls of the departed. It’s common to see them adorned with clothing, bibs, or hats—often red, a colour believed to ward off evil and illness.

Three Children with Walnuts, Hakodate

We ate very good take-out tempura. We turned left on Tara Machi-sen avenue to see a view of Komagatake volcano from the cemetery.

Kōryū-ji Temple

Hours: daily from 9:00 to 16:00
Admission: Free

Koryu-ji, Hakodate, Japan

Kōryūji Temple, 200 m from the Foreign Cemetery, was founded in 1633. Relocated several times due to fires, it settled in its current spot in 1879. The main gate, built in 1911 from zelkova wood, features intricate carvings of lions and dragons. It is an architectural treasure from the late Meiji period.

We admired the shaped trees with bronze and stone incense burners and a bronze statue of Kannon in the inner garden. We discussed Kannon at Kiyomizu-dera (Kyoto). Kannon is a bodhisattva, an enlightened being who postpones final enlightenment (bodhi) to alleviate the suffering of all sentient beings. She is the embodiment of limitless compassion and mercy.

Cuttlefish – Ika

Cuttlefish on a Clothesline, Hakodate, 94-29

We saw cuttlefish (ika) drying on a clothesline held up by clothes pegs! They were drying them. Two popular cuttlefish dishes are:

1. Ika Nigiri: A slice of raw cuttlefish atop vinegared rice, often brushed with soy sauce.
2. Ika Yaki: Whole grilled cuttlefish, typically seasoned with soy sauce or a sweet glaze, and served at festivals or street stalls.

We had Ika Yaki several times in Japan.

Cuttlefish on a Clothesline, Hakodate, 94-28

Cuttlefish also have one of the largest brain-to-body size ratios of all invertebrates. Cuttlefish in Latin is sepia. Ancient Rome valued cuttlefish for the unique red-brown pigment the creature releases from its siphon when it is alarmed. The word sepia now refers to a reddish-brown colour in English. Sepia ink was commonly used for writing in Greco-Roman civilization. It remained in common use as an artist’s drawing material until the 19th century.

Sepia Colour

Onuma

Koma-ga-take Volcano, Onuma-ko, Hakodate, 95-03

On Sunday, we went with the family — except Kimiko and Masato — for a picnic. There was heavy traffic. Oddly, the Japanese all head to the same spot even though they know it will be crowded.

Lake Onuma is only 20 km north of Hakodate. It was pretty with small islets in the foreground and the Hokkaido Koma-ga-take (G4.6) volcano behind the lake. It would not be worth a special trip.

Our Lady of the Angels Trappist Abbey

Trappist Convent, Hakodate, CC BY-SA (Wikipedia)

This Trappist Monastery (G4.3) was founded by a group of eight nuns sent from France in 1898. It was not too special, but to the Japanese, Western buildings are exotic.

Trappist Convent View, Hakodate, CC BY-SA (Wikipedia)

The convent is on a hill overlooking the gardens and forest down to the ocean. Tohoku can be seen on the horizon, though it was hazy (it was afternoon). You could not enter the compound except by arrangement with one week’s notice. There was a track to the top of the mountain.

Hakodate-San

Mount Hakodate was originally an island that was formed by volcanic eruptions millions of years ago. Yoshihiko drove us up Saturday night. It was extremely busy — he said it was busy every Saturday and on holidays!

Hakodate City from Hakodate San, CC BY-SA (Wikipedia)

It was a beautiful night view, because the lights trace the arc of the long, sweeping bay on the right and harbour on the left. They ranked this view as the 3^rd best in the world, after Napoli and Hong Kong.

A Western Farewell

It was time to say goodbye to the Aheta family and Hokkaido. We were so touched by the openness of these people who had invited us into their home and shared themselves despite the difficulty with communicating.

They were really shocked when we hugged her goodbye. Oops! We forgot we were in Japan. We just blew the Japanese concept of personal space. They were visibly shocked! Yoshihiko asked, “You mean in your country, you do things like that?” He even brought up this topic again as he drove us to the ferry.

The restraint and low-key nature of the Japanese people made their culture intriguing. A chance encounter with this family opened our eyes to how others live. We experienced such hospitality a few times in Japan. The gentle kindness of the Japanese people really warmed our hearts.

Coastal Cliffs, Aomori

From Hokkaido, we sailed south to the port of Aomori in Tohoku (Northern Honshu). The next part of our three-month trip is described in Explore Hidden Japanese Gems: From Miyako to Aomori.

Hokkaido Resources

Japan Hokkaido Google Map, our custom Google itinerary

Destinations – Hokkaido, JNTO Website

First-Time Guide to Hokkaidō, Lonely Planet Website

Hokkaido Love, Hokkaido Official Tourism Website

Other Places to See

You can find many hidden gems in Hokkaido. That does NOT mean there will be no visitors. Most tourists in Japan are domestic, and the Japanese are well aware of these “hidden gems”. Here are a few places to consider when you’re seeking a more tranquil experience.

Cherry Blossom Places

Hokkaido’s cherry blossom season arrives later than the rest of Japan—typically in late April to early May. Similarly to temples, why do you have to go to the well-known cherry blossom places? There are several off-the-beaten-path spots where you can enjoy quiet cherry blossom viewing:

Lesser-Visited Sakura Places

Overcrowded Sakura Places

Wisteria Blossom Places

You can see wisteria from late May to early June, depending on location. This is outside the over-touristed Cherry Blossom and holiday season, which is April in Central Honshu.

Sapporo Weather

Hokkaido Best Time

May to September has the best high temperatures of 21.8°C (71.2°F). August is the hottest month, with an average high of 25°C (77°F). November is getting very cold with a high temperature of 7°C (44.6°F), and winter is frigid. The rainiest months are August (140 mm) and September (125 mm).

[strong][strong][strong][strong][strong]Hokkaido[/strong][/strong][/strong][/strong]Getting Around[/strong]

Hakodate is the southern port city of 234,700 people. Tōyako has a population of 7,832 people. Kamikawa (Sōunkyō) is a small town with 3,200 people. Sapporo is a major city with 2.65 million people.

If you are travelling by bus or train, you may have to exclude the places that are only accessible by rental car or taxi. The places best suited for a rental car are Akan-ko, Io-san, Kussharo-ko, and Noboribetsu Onsen. Here are the train and bus fares from the Rome2Rio app:

If you are planning to see multiple, distant areas, check out a multi-city airfare.

Final Comments

We hope this post will encourage you to visit the intriguing Tohoku and escape the over-tourism of central Honshu island.

Surprising Fact for Today

Hokkaido has 52 volcanoes, of which 9 are active. About 10% of Japan’s land area is volcanic! For more surprising facts, read Unlock Japan: Insider Tips & FAQs.

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This was only a taste of Japan. What questions do you have? If you have been to Japan, share your experiences with us. How long is/was your trip?

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Other Posts You May Like

Here are other places to add to your itinerary as you head south from Tohoku towards Nara.

Hokkaido: Northeast Into Nature’s Wonderland

Hidden Japanese Gems: From Miyako to Aomori

Japanese Gems: From Kinkasan to Hiraizumi

Explore Hidden Gems in the Japanese Alps

Why Nikko Japan Should Not Be Missed

Embracing ‘Kayama Country’

Why Kanazawa Should Be on Your Japan Bucket List

Why Nara Should Be on Your Japan Bucket List

Travel Tips and Guides

Guide to Japanese Culture

Hidden Features of Japan

Insider Tips & FAQs

Is Japan Beautiful

Abbreviations

Google Maps Ratings

Google Maps provides a rating from 0 to 5 for all sights, hotels, and restaurants (but not cities). All our recommendations are appended with the rating (prefixed with a G) from Google Maps. Google Ratings are based on feedback from locals as well as tourists. They are much more reliable than travel booking websites or tourist anecdotes.

We consider a score of 4 to 4.39 to be Very Good and 4.4 to 5 to be Excellent. Yet, in Japan, many must-see sights are rated by the Japanese as 4.2. Based on this, we would consider the range of 4.2 to 5 to be Excellent.

All photos and text © Terra Encounters
Except where noted CC BY-SA (Creative Commons Wikipedia)
Japan Encounters is a subsidiary of Terra Encounters

Asia Encounters

2025-07-08 13:48:46

Explore Hokkaido: Northeast Journey Into Nature’s Wonderland

Why Visit Hokkaido

Hokkaido is a large island located north of Honshu. Here is a place where you can immerse yourself in Japanese nature, culture and cuisine. It is also the best place in Japan to escape over-tourism. We did not even bother going to Sapporo.

Hokkaido is a nature lover’s dream with its volcanoes, lakes, hot springs, and hikes. We spent 14 days in Hokkaido. We have divided our trip into two posts: one for northeast Hokkaido and a second for southwest Hokkaido. Each one takes a week.

Author & Photographer: George Mitchell

George’s Bio

Our advice is not influenced by affiliate links — we have none. Our itineraries, photos, and advice come from three years of travelling around the world, including three months in Japan. We are avid hikers, nature lovers, and photographers. We are students of art and architecture, culture and cuisine.

All the sights in this itinerary can be found on our custom Japan Hokkaido Google Map. The points of interest are appended with their Google Maps Ratings, which range from G0 to G5.

Japanese Names

Name suffixes show the type of building. So “ji”, “dera” or “tera” is a generic Buddhist temple. The suffix “in” is a Buddhist temple in a garden, especially a Zen temple. For more useful information, see the Guide to the Japanese Language.

Generally, I write the names of sights in Japanese (Romaji) because asking for directions with English names will be futile. Writing Kōmyō-ji Temple is redundant, but sometimes I add “temple” for those readers who missed this section.

Northeast Hokkaido

On September 27th, we took the Hachinohe ferry to the port of Tomakomai. After leaving Tokyo, we headed to Hokkaido to hike before it got too cold or snowy. Our northernmost destination, Sounkyo Gorge, is at the same latitude as Toronto, Canada. This is one region in Japan where a rental car would let you easily see all the sights. We rarely had a problem hitchhiking around the northeast.

https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=76630829" title="Mashū-ko Wintertime, Japan By Kpravin2 - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=76630829" class="has-alt-description">Mashū-ko Wintertime, CC BY SA Wikipedia

Obihiro

Tomakomai – Obihiro 204 km, 3:09 hrs.
Obihiro – Ashoro 65 km, 1:00 hrs.
Ashoro – Akankohan 55 km, 0:53 h

We met Yoshihiko on the Nissho Highway (Hidaka to Tokachi-Shimizu). He’s a 41-year-old drug salesman who speaks a few words of English. We arrived at Obihiro at noon, where he took us to visit his friend, also a drug salesman. They first gave us lemon tea. Then we tried herring roe from Canada. It was very piquant, but we probably would never buy it ourselves. Then they gave us a glass of milk and cookies while his friend’s wife made miso shiro soup, which we learned they simply added bean paste from a package to the water.

They served kuromai or black rice, a traditional heirloom grain. The blue-black outer bran layer is rich in anthocyanins, the same antioxidants found in blueberries and eggplants. It turns a vibrant purple when cooked. Then they served pickled plum (sour) and fried eggs! We were stuffed!

Yoshihiko was so eager to show us around – he had nothing to do as he had no work today. He brought us to a playing field with the longest bench in the world! We had told him we were going to Akan-ko. Instead of leaving us off at the Highway 242 junction, we found ourselves being driven to Ashoro. He insisted on parking until we got a lift. To our surprise, we didn’t get a ride in over 30 minutes – it usually only took a dozen minutes. A local woman said Monday was a bad day to “catch a car”, as the Japanese put it, due to little traffic! Then he grabbed our packs and said he would drive us. He also invited us to visit his family in Hakodate (next post) on our way back.

Akan-Mashu National Park

Akan-Ko

Auto: Tomakomai – Akankohan 295 km, 4:03 hrs
Train: Tomakomai – Shiranuka 3:23 hrs JPY 8400 – 12500 (USD 58 – 86)
+Taxi: Shiranuka – Akankohan 1:10 hrs JPY 22,000 – 27000 (USD 152 – 186)

Akan-Ko (G4.3) is located in a former caldera from a volcanic eruption 31,500 years ago. Akan-Kohan is a hot spring (onsen) resort. At the Akan-Kohan YH (Akan Kanko Hotel), we met two older Australian women who were backpacking in Japan for one month. They liked hiking and were also using the Lonely Planet guidebook. There was no internet then. At the supermarket, we bought lunch and snack supplies for hiking: peanuts, McVities digestive cookies, European bread, and peanut butter.

Lake Onnetō

Akankohan – Onnetō-ko 20 km, 0:21 hrs.

Meakan-dake from Onneto-ko

We headed to Lake Onnetō (G4.5), six km up Highway 949. It had a very beautiful green colour. We walked a very short path to the shore to take a photo of Me-Akan-dake (volcano) behind the lake. We continued walking to the end of the lake, but there was no sign of the hiking trail. People were trying to tell us to return to another track some 3.2 km earlier, where most Japanese hike up. We persisted and went up a side road behind a building, and sure enough, there was a sign.

Me-Akan Dake Trail

At 9:00 h, we started hiking through a heavily forested area with many tree roots. The grade became moderately steeper through a mainly coniferous forest.

After we reached the 2 km signpost (10:05 h), the forest changed to subalpine shrubby trees. We felt the full force of the bitter cold wind. Fortunately, we had ski jackets.

View from Me-Akan-dake, Hokkaido

We were finally high enough to get a good view of the green Lake Onnetō (10:29 h). There were no more signs, but the trail was well-marked with red lines and arrows. The trail continued to the right, around the back of the mountain. We reached a trail junction on a saddle between the two inactive volcanoes.

https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=17088332" title="Meakan-dake Aerial View, Japan By 663highland - Own work, CC BY 2.5, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=17088332" class="has-alt-description">Meakan-dake Aerial View, CC BY-SA Wikipedia

The top was fascinating with a gaping, wide crater. Behind a small green pond, sulphurous steam rose from a couple of vents. As we walked around, we felt the draw of the deep crater. This was heightened by the steep drop-off from the rim. There were excellent views of Akan-ko and the Oakan Dake volcano.

View from Me-Akan-dake, Hokkaido, 90-035

We began the steep trail down (11:50 h), which was more open and very exposed to the wind. We met a handful of people, unlike the uphill track, where we were alone. We reached Highway 949 at 13:50 h.

Me-Akan Dake Details

Distance: 4.2 km OW uphill; 3.2 km OW downhill
Duration: 4:45 hrs. RT
Elev Gain: 876 m
Max. Elev: 1499 m

Bokke

We visited Bokke (G4.2), a very small set of bubbling mud pools on a short 1.5-km trail near the Akan-ko Eco-Museum Centre. Soon, the leaf-strewn forested path revealed the Bokke, a mud “volcano” where underground gases and water vapour push hot mud to the surface. We also saw steam-heated water near the shore to the right of the dock.

Mashu-Ko

Akankohan – Mashu-Ko 49 km, 0:58 hrs.
Bus 1: Akankohan – Teshikaga 0:50 hrs JPY 2500 3500 (USD 17 – 24)
Bus 2: Teshikaga – Mashu-Ko 0:20 hrs JPY 200 – 550 (USD 1.38 – 3.79)

At the Akankohan Museum, you can see a tank with marimo weed. The marimo weed acts like a submarine as it can rise or descend. We saw marimo weed for free at the shop just in front of YH. We left Akankohan at 09:38 h.

The Sokodai Pass viewpoint (G3.3) on Highway 241 was not worthwhile. You can only see a small part of Akan-ko. It was 3 km further to the Sogakudai Viewpoint (G4.0). It wasn’t special, but it provided a nice view of two volcanoes, Me-Akan (G4.7) and Oakan Dake (G4.3).

Mashu-ko & Mt Kamui

Mashu-Ko (G4.5) is a lake (Ko) with an incredibly intense blue colour. Steep crater walls rise 200 m above the lake. The lake is inside a 6 km wide volcanic caldera from a massive eruption in the Holocene Era (11,700 years ago after the end of the last Ice Age). Do you see a pattern here? Many Japanese lakes are former volcanic calderas.

Mashu-ko & Mt Kamui Wide Angle

Mashu-Ko Daichi Tembodai or Lake Mashu Observation Deck No.1 (G4.3) had a very good view. The lake was clear and had a different blue colour, especially along the shore. Volcanic mountains were sprinkled in the background. Many Japanese asked us to be in their photograph!

Io-san

Mashu-Ko – Io-san 15 km, 0:19 hrs

Io-san Overview

Io-san was very worthwhile. At our first view from the side of Lake Mashu-ko, Io-san looked like a barren, low mountain. As we approached, we saw the rising steam. We walked up the green-yellow stained rocks past steaming fumaroles and that smell!

Sulphurous Rock, Io-san

Higher up were many more bright yellow stained rocks. I went to photograph one and found myself enveloped suddenly by a foul, sulphurous cloud, which fogged up my glasses. It was suffocating and possibly toxic. So I held my breath and waited. I just looked it up on the Internet. Yes, the sulphurous steam can be dangerous to breathe, especially if you’re close to the vents. The steam holds hydrogen sulphide (H₂S), a toxic gas that smells like rotten eggs.

We looked at some sulphur crystals up close. Corinne touched them. They were quite hot. The steam vents can reach temperatures over 100°C.

Even though they dressed in jeans, it was incredible how Japanese women wore high heels on hiking trails! Older women were cooking eggs in saucepan-sized boiling pools. We had grilled corn on the cob and soft ice cream. Even nature sights came with snack services called sunakku in Japanese. Yes, there are several English words in Japanese.

Kussharo-Ko

Io-san – Kussharo-Ko 17 km, 0:19 hrs.

Kussharo-ko Reflections

We stayed at the Kussharo-Ko YH about 3 km past a town. It was part of the resort onsen, along the lake. In the living room with a bay window overlooking the lake, we met a nice girl from Czechoslovakia, studying chemistry in Tokyo.

Supper provided many different tastes: seaweed with a mint-sesame flavour, fried fish, romaine lettuce, spiced bean curd, bamboo shoots, soup, and rice. We had many experiences with onsen in Japan. Here we enjoyed a large bath lined with pebbles on the bottom and overflowing with very hot mineral water.

Bihoro-Toge (Pass)

Kussharo-Ko – Bihoro-Toge 19 km, 0:21 hrs.

Bihoro-Toge View, Kussharo-ko

The Bihoro-Toge viewpoint (G4.1) at the pass (toge) was very pretty. Lake Kussharo-ko (G4.5) was not a different colour.

Bihoro-Toge View, Kussharo-ko, 92-17

But the sky was azure and clear. The road switchbacked below through the trees.

Ainu People

Ainu Men and Woman, Bihoro-Toge, Kussharo-ko

The only commercialization was the usual tourist complex below the cliffs where bearded Ainu men posed for photos. The Ainu are an indigenous ethnic group who live in northern Japan and southeastern Russia. Ainu means ‘human’ in the Ainu language.

Most Japanese are descendants of the Yamato tribe, who migrated from northeastern Asia. The Ainu were colonized and assimilated by the Japanese since at least the 18th century. The children were forced to go to Japanese schools. They were banned from speaking the Ainu language. Only in 2019 did parliament (the Diet) pass an act recognizing the Ainu as an indigenous people of Japan.

Kitami

While we were at Bihoro-Toge, we met two girls. Eiko, on the left, spoke English very well. They were heading towards Sounkyo and gave us a lift.

Eiko & Friend Picnic, Kitami, 92-19

We had lunch on a farm road just west of Kitami (arr 12:26). They had salad and very good potato chips. The Japanese love sunakku.

Eiko has no brothers, and she is the eldest. It is expected that her parents will live with her forever. She can not marry the oldest son of a family as a result. She doesn’t like the idea of living with her parents. P.S.: This was decades ago.

Elderly Care

Farm Fields, Kitami, 92-20

Traditionally in Japan, elderly parents lived with their eldest son, especially in rural areas or within families that followed the ie system — a patriarchal household structure where the eldest son inherited the family estate and was expected to care for the aging parents.

Urbanization and modernization have led to a rise in nuclear families, with many elderly parents now living independently or in retirement communities.

Co-residence still happens, but it’s influenced by factors like the parents’ health, financial situation, and the children’s marital status or job location. Parents are more likely to live with their eldest son, even if he isn’t the oldest child, reflecting lingering cultural expectations

Daisetsuzan National Park

Kussharo-ko – Sounkyo 166 km 2:51 hrs.
Sapporo – Sounkyo 200 km 2:30 hrs.

Peaks just before town, Daisetsuzan NP

Sounkyo Onsen Youth Hostel

We stayed in Sounkyo for two days, as there were two main things to do: Sounkyo Gorge and the Kurodake Hike. We got our own room with tatami mats at the Sounkyo-Onsen Youth Hostel (YH). This was the busiest YH we had stayed at. Supper on our first day was very oily and not worthwhile. But on the second day, there was a special supper with a large quantity of salmon, very good sushi and fruit!

Kurodake – Hokuchin Dake Hike

Ropeway (aka cable car) ¥1950 RT (USD 14); Time: takes 7 mins.
Hours: summer (June to mid-October) 6 to 18 h

Chair Lift (ski tow) ¥600 RT (USD 4); Time: takes 13 mins
Hours: summer (June to mid-October) 6 to 17 h

View above the Cable Station, Daisetsuzan NP

As it was sunny, we did the Kurodake Hike first. Near the YH, we took a cable car to a platform above the upper station, where there were mobs of Japanese. There were good views with beautiful autumn colours and soft morning light. It was a clear, brisk day.
Autumn Leaves, Daisetsuzan NP
Then we took the ski tow to even better views.
Birch & Autumn Trees, Daisetsuzan NP, 92-32
The first part of the trail was muddy, which made the steady-uphill climb hard. There were good views towards Sounkyo and O Me-Akan-Dake once we were above the tree line.
View from Kurodake, Daisetsuzan NP
The view from Kurodake was really nice. It was October 1st, and patches of snow were already on the plateau.
Snow Plateau, Daisetsuzan NP
This was a worthwhile short trail, but many Japanese also walked here. Beautiful, windswept ice crystals clung to the rocks and signs.

Purple Heath? on Kurodake, Daisetsuzan NP

We descended to a red hut, 18 minutes below. There could be alpine flowers in this area. But we only saw green and purple plants. From here, the trail was easy, relaxing, and so quiet, with very few people.

Asahi-dake

Asahi-dake Crater, Daisetsuzan NP

After a short climb, we suddenly realized that we were on the edge of a crater (Asahi-dake). It was very wide, with water trickling down. The view was barren yet with some green and snow on the surrounding mountains.

View SE towards Snow Plateau, Daisetsuzan NP

Hokuchin Dake looked high, but the climb was not too difficult. But, as soon as we came on top of the ridge, the wind blew right through us. We were glad we brought our down jackets.

Alpine View, Daisetsuzan NP

The view from the top was very nice. But it was too hazy to see the coast. The view west was of a snow-covered trail heading along a ridge down to the valley.

People Rocks, Daisetsuzan NP

Because of the wind chill, we could only stay half an hour before heading down. The trail dried up a bit, and it was less slippery. We met up with Lesley Downer, who was also staying at the YH. We made it to the ski tow for 15:48 h. It was very quiet, but the views were now in the shade. The lighting was soft but not as special as early in the morning.

Sounkyo Gorge

Obako

Japanese Tour Group, Obako, Sounkyo Gorge

We drove 8.9 km (11 minutes) upstream so that we could walk down a gentle grade from the furthest point, Obako (Big Box). Here we captured the typical guided tour group taking the mandatory group photo. Japanese people seem to prefer travelling in groups.

Basalt Columns, Obako, Sounkyo Gorge

Obako has fluted basalt cliffs surrounding a river. The gorge is narrow and enclosed, hence why it is called Big Box (Obako).

Basalt Columns near Obako Waterfall, Sounkyo Gorge, 93-16

We walked through the tunnel of an old road (ca. 15 minutes). A small waterfall plunges through a gap in the cliff walls. Trees grow out of the rock midway up the cliffs, and some have colourful autumn leaves.

Pedway Crystals, Sounkyo Gorge

We walked for 60 minutes. along an old road now converted to a Pedway-Bicycle Path. It was short, but there were no cars or exhaust fumes, as traffic goes through a tunnel and misses the best part of the gorge.

Basalt

Basalt Columns, Sounkyo Gorge, Daisetsuzan NP

Why are there columns here? Lava cooled rapidly due to the river, creating five or six-sided basalt crystals. The vertical faces of the columns are weak, allowing a river to erode the basalt and form a canyon.

Basalt is the most common volcanic rock found in the Earth’s crust. It is a glassy rock, which makes sense since it primarily consists of silica or sand, the key ingredient of glass. If it has a rusty red colour, that indicates the presence of iron.

Basalt Columns, Sounkyo Gorge, Daisetsuzan NP

Most interesting were the large basalt-fluted cliffs. They looked like an accordion. The high cliffs were adorned with colourful autumn leaves. It was very quiet (few people). There were two more waterfalls (taki): Iwa Ma No Taki (690 m off the path) and Kin Shi No Taki (800 m).

Ha Goromo Iwa Curved Basalt, Sounkyo Gorge

Ha Goromo Iwa (890 m) had interesting curved strata caused by tectonic forces. All places are signposted. Most of the things on the left side were in the shade, even though it was noon. Several men bicycled past us in business suits!

Ginga-No-Taki

Ginga-no-taki, Sounkyo Gorge, 92-25

Ginga-No-Taki (G4.3) was the best waterfall. Unfortunately, it was along the highway. The best overall view is from the upper end of the parking lot. But you can better see a veil-like effect when you are close up.

Ryusei-No-Taki

Basalt Columns, Sounkyo Gorge, Daisetsuzan NP

We walked c. 200 m along the river. Ryusei-No-Taki (G4.3) was an okay waterfall. We continued to walk, but at this point, there really wasn’t anything interesting left to see.

Picnic Area

Autumn Trees, Obako, Sounkyo Gorge

Just before the road into town, we crossed a pedestrian-only bridge to a grassy picnic area among the trees. There was a booklet with all the hiking trails on Hokkaido being sold at the Sounkyo YH. Unfortunately, it is only in Kanji.

Lesley Downer

We learned a lot about Japanese culture by talking with people and living with Japanese families. We wrote about our experiences in the Guide to Japanese Social Norms. We learned quite a bit from Lesley Downer, whom we met at the Sounkyo Onsen Youth Hostel. She was 33 years old at that time and taught English at a university. She had lived in Japan for 3 years in Gifu.

Tea Ceremony, Urasenke, Kyoto

Located north of Nagoya, Gifu was a very conservative community. But it also had many people who were interested in traditional things. She learned Ikebana (flower arrangement), pottery, chado (tea ceremony), and Zen. Zen principles have had a major impact on Japanese art and culture.

Culture Lesson

Relationships

Women are expected to marry by 24; otherwise, something is wrong. Men stay out until midnight and get drunk. They can talk about sports all the time. It takes a long time to develop a friendship: The Japanese are like the English. It is difficult to meet people in Japan who like deep relationships; they can’t talk about themselves as individuals, nor ask personal questions.

Politeness

School Kids Bowing Good Morning, Shofukuji, Fukuoka

Politeness is very important in Japan. It is not polite to talk while eating. Some young people do talk. Japanese usually think about others. On the other hand, they are very indirect. They say things they don’t mean. They may say that you must come to visit me. But they never give their address. They can also tell you off in the most polite way – her former landlady told her how messy her kitchen was.

Language

Lesley speaks Japanese very well. There are many levels of communication, depending on the status of the person you are addressing. A lot of communication is nonverbal or intuitive. The aim of conversation is harmony, not communication. She says “hai” (yes) even when she doesn’t understand.

Kabuki

Shunkan Kabuki Play, Kyoto

Only men act, but the ones who portray women are superb. Tamasaburō Bandō V is one of the most celebrated onnagata — male actors who specialize in female roles. Get a Kabuki handbook in English. Ask the Tourist Information Centre (TIC) for current productions.

Compliments

Japanese always give compliments – you’re intelligent, beautiful – that you start to believe them. One reason foreigners like to stay in Japan is that they receive no criticism.

Gifts

Kokeshi Dolls, Gift of the Umetsu Family, Yamagata

Always give a gift if you stay at a Japanese home. The longer one plans to stay, the better the gift. Go to an expensive store. Wrapping is important. It is all show and pretense. It doesn’t matter what you bring. One time, she got baby blue booties. When you give your gift (to the wife), say “Please accept this miserable, cheap gift”, even though it is not.

Omotenashi, the Japanese concept of hospitality, also applies to guests. Offering a gift when a guest admires an object is an extension of this hospitality.

Affluence & Status

Show and status are very important. The Japanese toss away used or even slightly damaged things. If clothes are torn, they throw them out. If a woman wears a mended top, they think she is poor and go and buy her a new one! They throw out “old” equipment and buy the latest models! Many would rather buy a new car than pay for an expensive car checkup (every 3 years). As a result, the Japanese don’t maintain their cars.

Parties

Everyone makes a speech (boring) about anything. Then they eat. After the meal, they sing songs. Endings are always abrupt.

From Hokkaido, we headed south to Tohoku (Northern Honshu), as described in Explore Hidden Japanese Gems: From Miyako to Aomori.

Hokkaido Resources

Japan Hokkaido Google Map, our custom Google itinerary

Destinations – Hokkaido, JNTO Website

First-Time Guide to Hokkaidō, Lonely Planet Website

Hokkaido Love, Hokkaido Official Tourism Website

Other Places to See

You can find many hidden gems in Hokkaido. That does NOT mean there will be no visitors. Most tourists in Japan are domestic, and the Japanese are well aware of these “hidden gems”. Here are a few places to consider when you’re seeking a more tranquil experience.

Cherry Blossom Places

Hokkaido’s cherry blossom (sakura) season arrives later than the rest of Japan, typically in late April to early May. Similarly to temples, why do you have to go to the well-known cherry blossom places? There are several off-the-beaten-path spots where you can enjoy quiet cherry blossom viewing:

Lesser-Visited Sakura Places

Place	Location	Highlights
Forest of Cherry Trees G4.1	Sapporo	A serene grove within Moerenuma Park, designed by Isamu Noguchi, with over 1,600 cherry trees.
Shinkawa Sakura Namiki G4.2	Sapporo	A peaceful riverside lined with cherry trees—perfect for a quiet stroll.
Panoramic Flower Gardens Shikisai-no-oka G4.2	Biei	While known for summer flowers, this spot also features cherry blossoms with stunning rural backdrops.

Overcrowded Sakura Places

Place	Location	Highlights
Goryokaku Park G4.3	Hakodate	A star-shaped fort surrounded by over 1,000 cherry trees. The view from Goryokaku Tower is breathtaking.
Nijukken Road Sakura G4.1	Shinhidaka	A 7-km tunnel of 2,200 cherry trees—one of Japan’s most iconic sakura roads.
Odori Park G4.5	Sapporo	Right in the heart of the city, this park offers a relaxed hanami vibe with Sapporo TV Tower views.

Wisteria Blossom Places

You can see wisteria from late May to early June, depending on location. This is outside the over-touristed Cherry Blossom and holiday season, which is April in Central Honshu.

Place	Location	Highlights
Tenjinyama Park G4.0	Sapporo	Home to the oldest wisteria trellis in Hokkaido, over 200 years old. The “Tenjin Wisteria” spreads 25 meters wide and fills the air with fragrance.
Goryokaku Park G4.3	Hakodate	Known for cherry blossoms, but also features a 30-meter-long wisteria tunnel that blooms in late May.
Maeda Forest Park G4.2	Sapporo	600-meter canal-side park with a stone wisteria trellis that blooms from late May to mid-June.
Maruseppu Fujien Park G4.3	Engaru	hidden gem in northeastern Hokkaido with a peaceful wisteria garden and fewer crowds.

Sapporo Weather

Season – Months	Temp °C	Temp °F
Spring: April–May	1.3°	34.3°
Summer: June–August	23.3°	74.0°
Fall: September–November	14.7°	58.4°
Winter: December–March	3.5°	38.3°

Hokkaido Best Time

May to September has the best high temperatures of 21.8°C (71.2°F). August is the hottest month, with an average high of 25°C (77°F). November is getting very cold with a high temperature of 7°C (44.6°F), and winter is frigid. The rainiest months are August (140 mm) and September (125 mm).

[strong][strong][strong][strong][strong]Hokkaido[/strong][/strong][/strong][/strong]Getting Around[/strong]

Hakodate is the southern port city of 234,700 people.
Tōyako has a population of 7,832 people.
Kamikawa (Sōunkyō) is a small town with 3,200 people.
Sapporo is a major city with 2.65 million people.

Route by Auto	Distance by Road	Time by Road
Hakodate – Tomakomai	238 km	3:30 hrs
Tomakomai – Sapporo	64 km	0:48 hrs
Sapporo – Sounkyo	200 km	2:30 hrs
Sounkyo – Akankohan	154 km	2:19 hrs
Sounkyo – Shikotsu-ko	257 km	3:17 hrs
Shikotsu-ko – Tōyako	129 km	1:50 hrs
Tōyako – Hakodate	163 km	2:17 hrs

If you are travelling by bus or train, you may have to exclude the places that are only accessible by rental car or taxi. The places best suited for a rental car are Akan-ko, Io-san, Kussharo-ko, and Noboribetsu Onsen. Here are the train and bus fares from the Rome2Rio app:

Route by Train or Bus	Fare JPY	Fare USD	Time Hrs
Hakodate – Tomakomai Train	JPY 6000 – 9000	USD 41.65 – 62.47	2:54
Tomakomai – Sapporo Train	JPY 2500 – 3600	USD 17.35 – 25.00	0:48
Sapporo – Sounkyo Train+Bus	JPY 5109 – 7694	USD 35.45 – 53.40	4:30
Sounkyo – Akankohan Bus	JPY 2200 – 3600	USD 15.27 – 24.99	3:56

If you are planning to see multiple, distant areas, check out a multi-city airfare.

Final Comments

We hope this post will encourage you to visit the intriguing Tohoku and escape the over-tourism of central Honshu island.

Surprising Fact for Today

Hokkaido has 52 volcanoes, of which 9 are active. About 10% of Japan’s land area is volcanic! For more surprising facts, read Unlock Japan: Insider Tips & FAQs.

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This was only a taste of Japan. What questions do you have? If you have been to Japan, share your experiences with us. How long is/was your trip?

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Other Posts You May Like

Here are other places to add to your itinerary as you head south from Tohoku towards Nara.

Hokkaido: Northeast Into Nature’s Wonderland

Hidden Japanese Gems: From Miyako to Aomori

Japanese Gems: From Kinkasan to Hiraizumi

Explore Hidden Gems in the Japanese Alps

Why Nikko Japan Should Not Be Missed

Embracing ‘Kayama Country’

Why Kanazawa Should Be on Your Japan Bucket List

Why Nara Should Be on Your Japan Bucket List

Travel Tips and Guides

Guide to Japanese Culture

Hidden Features of Japan

Insider Tips & FAQs

Is Japan Beautiful

Abbreviations

Abbreviation	Meaning
Elev	Elevation
h	24-hour time
hrs	hours elapsed time
JPY	Japanese Yen
Max	Maximum
Mins	Minutes
OW	One Way
RT	Round Trip
USD	United States Dollar

Google Maps Ratings

Google Maps provides a rating from 0 to 5 for all sights, hotels, and restaurants (but not cities). All our recommendations are appended with the rating (prefixed with a G) from Google Maps. Google Ratings are based on feedback from locals as well as tourists. They are much more reliable than travel booking websites or tourist anecdotes.

We consider a score of 4 to 4.39 to be Very Good and 4.4 to 5 to be Excellent. Yet, in Japan, many must-see sights are rated by the Japanese as 4.2. Based on this, we would consider the range of 4.2 to 5 to be Excellent.

All photos and text © Terra Encounters
Except where noted CC BY-SA (Creative Commons Wikipedia)
Japan Encounters is a subsidiary of Terra Encounters

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Terra Encounters

for in-depth advice

^{Terra Encounters}

Why Visit Hokkaido

Hokkaido is a large island located north of Honshu. Here is a place where you can immerse yourself in Japanese nature, culture and cuisine. It is also the best place in Japan to escape over-tourism. We did not even bother going to Sapporo.

Hokkaido is a nature lover’s dream with its volcanoes, lakes, hot springs, and hikes. We spent 14 days in Hokkaido. We have divided our trip into two posts: one for northeast Hokkaido and a second for southwest Hokkaido. Each one takes a week.

Author & Photographer: George Mitchell

George’s Bio

Our advice is not influenced by affiliate links — we have none. Our itineraries, photos, and advice come from three years of travelling around the world, including three months in Japan. We are avid hikers, nature lovers, and photographers. We are students of art and architecture, culture and cuisine.

All the sights in this itinerary can be found on our custom Japan Hokkaido Google Map. The points of interest are appended with their Google Maps Ratings, which range from G0 to G5.

Japanese Names

Name suffixes show the type of building. So “ji”, “dera” or “tera” is a generic Buddhist temple. The suffix “in” is a Buddhist temple in a garden, especially a Zen temple. For more useful information, see the Guide to the Japanese Language.

Generally, I write the names of sights in Japanese (Romaji) because asking for directions with English names will be futile. Writing Kōmyō-ji Temple is redundant, but sometimes I add “temple” for those readers who missed this section.

Northeast Hokkaido

On September 27th, we took the Hachinohe ferry to the port of Tomakomai. After leaving Tokyo, we headed to Hokkaido to hike before it got too cold or snowy. Our northernmost destination, Sounkyo Gorge, is at the same latitude as Toronto, Canada. This is one region in Japan where a rental car would let you easily see all the sights. We rarely had a problem hitchhiking around the northeast.

Mashū-ko Wintertime, CC BY SA Wikipedia

Obihiro

Tomakomai – Obihiro 204 km, 3:09 hrs.
Obihiro – Ashoro 65 km, 1:00 hrs.
Ashoro – Akankohan 55 km, 0:53 h

We met Yoshihiko on the Nissho Highway (Hidaka to Tokachi-Shimizu). He’s a 41-year-old drug salesman who speaks a few words of English. We arrived at Obihiro at noon, where he took us to visit his friend, also a drug salesman. They first gave us lemon tea. Then we tried herring roe from Canada. It was very piquant, but we probably would never buy it ourselves. Then they gave us a glass of milk and cookies while his friend’s wife made miso shiro soup, which we learned they simply added bean paste from a package to the water.

They served kuromai or black rice, a traditional heirloom grain. The blue-black outer bran layer is rich in anthocyanins, the same antioxidants found in blueberries and eggplants. It turns a vibrant purple when cooked. Then they served pickled plum (sour) and fried eggs! We were stuffed!

Yoshihiko was so eager to show us around – he had nothing to do as he had no work today. He brought us to a playing field with the longest bench in the world! We had told him we were going to Akan-ko. Instead of leaving us off at the Highway 242 junction, we found ourselves being driven to Ashoro. He insisted on parking until we got a lift. To our surprise, we didn’t get a ride in over 30 minutes – it usually only took a dozen minutes. A local woman said Monday was a bad day to “catch a car”, as the Japanese put it, due to little traffic! Then he grabbed our packs and said he would drive us. He also invited us to visit his family in Hakodate (next post) on our way back.

Akan-Mashu National Park

Akan-Ko

Auto: Tomakomai – Akankohan 295 km, 4:03 hrs
Train: Tomakomai – Shiranuka 3:23 hrs JPY 8400 – 12500 (USD 58 – 86)
+Taxi: Shiranuka – Akankohan 1:10 hrs JPY 22,000 – 27000 (USD 152 – 186)

Akan-Ko (G4.3) is located in a former caldera from a volcanic eruption 31,500 years ago. Akan-Kohan is a hot spring (onsen) resort. At the Akan-Kohan YH (Akan Kanko Hotel), we met two older Australian women who were backpacking in Japan for one month. They liked hiking and were also using the Lonely Planet guidebook. There was no internet then. At the supermarket, we bought lunch and snack supplies for hiking: peanuts, McVities digestive cookies, European bread, and peanut butter.

Lake Onnetō

Akankohan – Onnetō-ko 20 km, 0:21 hrs.

Meakan-dake from Onneto-ko

We headed to Lake Onnetō (G4.5), six km up Highway 949. It had a very beautiful green colour. We walked a very short path to the shore to take a photo of Me-Akan-dake (volcano) behind the lake. We continued walking to the end of the lake, but there was no sign of the hiking trail. People were trying to tell us to return to another track some 3.2 km earlier, where most Japanese hike up. We persisted and went up a side road behind a building, and sure enough, there was a sign.

Me-Akan Dake Trail

At 9:00 h, we started hiking through a heavily forested area with many tree roots. The grade became moderately steeper through a mainly coniferous forest.

After we reached the 2 km signpost (10:05 h), the forest changed to subalpine shrubby trees. We felt the full force of the bitter cold wind. Fortunately, we had ski jackets.

View from Me-Akan-dake, Hokkaido

We were finally high enough to get a good view of the green Lake Onnetō (10:29 h). There were no more signs, but the trail was well-marked with red lines and arrows. The trail continued to the right, around the back of the mountain. We reached a trail junction on a saddle between the two inactive volcanoes.

Meakan-dake Aerial View, CC BY-SA Wikipedia

The top was fascinating with a gaping, wide crater. Behind a small green pond, sulphurous steam rose from a couple of vents. As we walked around, we felt the draw of the deep crater. This was heightened by the steep drop-off from the rim. There were excellent views of Akan-ko and the Oakan Dake volcano.

View from Me-Akan-dake, Hokkaido, 90-035

We began the steep trail down (11:50 h), which was more open and very exposed to the wind. We met a handful of people, unlike the uphill track, where we were alone. We reached Highway 949 at 13:50 h.

Me-Akan Dake Details

Distance: 4.2 km OW uphill; 3.2 km OW downhill
Duration: 4:45 hrs. RT
Elev Gain: 876 m
Max. Elev: 1499 m

Bokke

We visited Bokke (G4.2), a very small set of bubbling mud pools on a short 1.5-km trail near the Akan-ko Eco-Museum Centre. Soon, the leaf-strewn forested path revealed the Bokke, a mud “volcano” where underground gases and water vapour push hot mud to the surface. We also saw steam-heated water near the shore to the right of the dock.

Mashu-Ko

Akankohan – Mashu-Ko 49 km, 0:58 hrs.
Bus 1: Akankohan – Teshikaga 0:50 hrs JPY 2500 3500 (USD 17 – 24)
Bus 2: Teshikaga – Mashu-Ko 0:20 hrs JPY 200 – 550 (USD 1.38 – 3.79)

At the Akankohan Museum, you can see a tank with marimo weed. The marimo weed acts like a submarine as it can rise or descend. We saw marimo weed for free at the shop just in front of YH. We left Akankohan at 09:38 h.

The Sokodai Pass viewpoint (G3.3) on Highway 241 was not worthwhile. You can only see a small part of Akan-ko. It was 3 km further to the Sogakudai Viewpoint (G4.0). It wasn’t special, but it provided a nice view of two volcanoes, Me-Akan (G4.7) and Oakan Dake (G4.3).

Mashu-ko & Mt Kamui

Mashu-Ko (G4.5) is a lake (Ko) with an incredibly intense blue colour. Steep crater walls rise 200 m above the lake. The lake is inside a 6 km wide volcanic caldera from a massive eruption in the Holocene Era (11,700 years ago after the end of the last Ice Age). Do you see a pattern here? Many Japanese lakes are former volcanic calderas.

Mashu-ko & Mt Kamui Wide Angle

Mashu-Ko Daichi Tembodai or Lake Mashu Observation Deck No.1 (G4.3) had a very good view. The lake was clear and had a different blue colour, especially along the shore. Volcanic mountains were sprinkled in the background. Many Japanese asked us to be in their photograph!

Io-san

Mashu-Ko – Io-san 15 km, 0:19 hrs

Io-san Overview

Io-san was very worthwhile. At our first view from the side of Lake Mashu-ko, Io-san looked like a barren, low mountain. As we approached, we saw the rising steam. We walked up the green-yellow stained rocks past steaming fumaroles and that smell!

Sulphurous Rock, Io-san

Higher up were many more bright yellow stained rocks. I went to photograph one and found myself enveloped suddenly by a foul, sulphurous cloud, which fogged up my glasses. It was suffocating and possibly toxic. So I held my breath and waited. I just looked it up on the Internet. Yes, the sulphurous steam can be dangerous to breathe, especially if you’re close to the vents. The steam holds hydrogen sulphide (H₂S), a toxic gas that smells like rotten eggs.

We looked at some sulphur crystals up close. Corinne touched them. They were quite hot. The steam vents can reach temperatures over 100°C.

Even though they dressed in jeans, it was incredible how Japanese women wore high heels on hiking trails! Older women were cooking eggs in saucepan-sized boiling pools. We had grilled corn on the cob and soft ice cream. Even nature sights came with snack services called sunakku in Japanese. Yes, there are several English words in Japanese.

Kussharo-Ko

Io-san – Kussharo-Ko 17 km, 0:19 hrs.

Kussharo-ko Reflections

We stayed at the Kussharo-Ko YH about 3 km past a town. It was part of the resort onsen, along the lake. In the living room with a bay window overlooking the lake, we met a nice girl from Czechoslovakia, studying chemistry in Tokyo.

Supper provided many different tastes: seaweed with a mint-sesame flavour, fried fish, romaine lettuce, spiced bean curd, bamboo shoots, soup, and rice. We had many experiences with onsen in Japan. Here we enjoyed a large bath lined with pebbles on the bottom and overflowing with very hot mineral water.

Bihoro-Toge (Pass)

Kussharo-Ko – Bihoro-Toge 19 km, 0:21 hrs.

Bihoro-Toge View, Kussharo-ko

The Bihoro-Toge viewpoint (G4.1) at the pass (toge) was very pretty. Lake Kussharo-ko (G4.5) was not a different colour.

Bihoro-Toge View, Kussharo-ko, 92-17

But the sky was azure and clear. The road switchbacked below through the trees.

Ainu People

Ainu Men and Woman, Bihoro-Toge, Kussharo-ko

The only commercialization was the usual tourist complex below the cliffs where bearded Ainu men posed for photos. The Ainu are an indigenous ethnic group who live in northern Japan and southeastern Russia. Ainu means ‘human’ in the Ainu language.

Most Japanese are descendants of the Yamato tribe, who migrated from northeastern Asia. The Ainu were colonized and assimilated by the Japanese since at least the 18th century. The children were forced to go to Japanese schools. They were banned from speaking the Ainu language. Only in 2019 did parliament (the Diet) pass an act recognizing the Ainu as an indigenous people of Japan.

Kitami

While we were at Bihoro-Toge, we met two girls. Eiko, on the left, spoke English very well. They were heading towards Sounkyo and gave us a lift.

Eiko & Friend Picnic, Kitami, 92-19

We had lunch on a farm road just west of Kitami (arr 12:26). They had salad and very good potato chips. The Japanese love sunakku.

Eiko has no brothers, and she is the eldest. It is expected that her parents will live with her forever. She can not marry the oldest son of a family as a result. She doesn’t like the idea of living with her parents. P.S.: This was decades ago.

Elderly Care

Farm Fields, Kitami, 92-20

Traditionally in Japan, elderly parents lived with their eldest son, especially in rural areas or within families that followed the ie system — a patriarchal household structure where the eldest son inherited the family estate and was expected to care for the aging parents.

Urbanization and modernization have led to a rise in nuclear families, with many elderly parents now living independently or in retirement communities.

Co-residence still happens, but it’s influenced by factors like the parents’ health, financial situation, and the children’s marital status or job location. Parents are more likely to live with their eldest son, even if he isn’t the oldest child, reflecting lingering cultural expectations

Daisetsuzan National Park

Kussharo-ko – Sounkyo 166 km 2:51 hrs.
Sapporo – Sounkyo 200 km 2:30 hrs.

Peaks just before town, Daisetsuzan NP

Sounkyo Onsen Youth Hostel

We stayed in Sounkyo for two days, as there were two main things to do: Sounkyo Gorge and the Kurodake Hike. We got our own room with tatami mats at the Sounkyo-Onsen Youth Hostel (YH). This was the busiest YH we had stayed at. Supper on our first day was very oily and not worthwhile. But on the second day, there was a special supper with a large quantity of salmon, very good sushi and fruit!

Kurodake – Hokuchin Dake Hike

Ropeway (aka cable car) ¥1950 RT (USD 14); Time: takes 7 mins.
Hours: summer (June to mid-October) 6 to 18 h

Chair Lift (ski tow) ¥600 RT (USD 4); Time: takes 13 mins
Hours: summer (June to mid-October) 6 to 17 h

View above the Cable Station, Daisetsuzan NP

As it was sunny, we did the Kurodake Hike first. Near the YH, we took a cable car to a platform above the upper station, where there were mobs of Japanese. There were good views with beautiful autumn colours and soft morning light. It was a clear, brisk day.
Autumn Leaves, Daisetsuzan NP
Then we took the ski tow to even better views.
Birch & Autumn Trees, Daisetsuzan NP, 92-32
The first part of the trail was muddy, which made the steady-uphill climb hard. There were good views towards Sounkyo and O Me-Akan-Dake once we were above the tree line.
View from Kurodake, Daisetsuzan NP
The view from Kurodake was really nice. It was October 1st, and patches of snow were already on the plateau.
Snow Plateau, Daisetsuzan NP
This was a worthwhile short trail, but many Japanese also walked here. Beautiful, windswept ice crystals clung to the rocks and signs.

Purple Heath? on Kurodake, Daisetsuzan NP

We descended to a red hut, 18 minutes below. There could be alpine flowers in this area. But we only saw green and purple plants. From here, the trail was easy, relaxing, and so quiet, with very few people.

Asahi-dake

Asahi-dake Crater, Daisetsuzan NP

After a short climb, we suddenly realized that we were on the edge of a crater (Asahi-dake). It was very wide, with water trickling down. The view was barren yet with some green and snow on the surrounding mountains.

View SE towards Snow Plateau, Daisetsuzan NP

Hokuchin Dake looked high, but the climb was not too difficult. But, as soon as we came on top of the ridge, the wind blew right through us. We were glad we brought our down jackets.

Alpine View, Daisetsuzan NP

The view from the top was very nice. But it was too hazy to see the coast. The view west was of a snow-covered trail heading along a ridge down to the valley.

People Rocks, Daisetsuzan NP

Because of the wind chill, we could only stay half an hour before heading down. The trail dried up a bit, and it was less slippery. We met up with Lesley Downer, who was also staying at the YH. We made it to the ski tow for 15:48 h. It was very quiet, but the views were now in the shade. The lighting was soft but not as special as early in the morning.

Sounkyo Gorge

Obako

Japanese Tour Group, Obako, Sounkyo Gorge

We drove 8.9 km (11 minutes) upstream so that we could walk down a gentle grade from the furthest point, Obako (Big Box). Here we captured the typical guided tour group taking the mandatory group photo. Japanese people seem to prefer travelling in groups.

Basalt Columns, Obako, Sounkyo Gorge

Obako has fluted basalt cliffs surrounding a river. The gorge is narrow and enclosed, hence why it is called Big Box (Obako).

Basalt Columns near Obako Waterfall, Sounkyo Gorge, 93-16

We walked through the tunnel of an old road (ca. 15 minutes). A small waterfall plunges through a gap in the cliff walls. Trees grow out of the rock midway up the cliffs, and some have colourful autumn leaves.

Pedway Crystals, Sounkyo Gorge

We walked for 60 minutes. along an old road now converted to a Pedway-Bicycle Path. It was short, but there were no cars or exhaust fumes, as traffic goes through a tunnel and misses the best part of the gorge.

Basalt

Basalt Columns, Sounkyo Gorge, Daisetsuzan NP

Why are there columns here? Lava cooled rapidly due to the river, creating five or six-sided basalt crystals. The vertical faces of the columns are weak, allowing a river to erode the basalt and form a canyon.

Basalt is the most common volcanic rock found in the Earth’s crust. It is a glassy rock, which makes sense since it primarily consists of silica or sand, the key ingredient of glass. If it has a rusty red colour, that indicates the presence of iron.

Basalt Columns, Sounkyo Gorge, Daisetsuzan NP

Most interesting were the large basalt-fluted cliffs. They looked like an accordion. The high cliffs were adorned with colourful autumn leaves. It was very quiet (few people). There were two more waterfalls (taki): Iwa Ma No Taki (690 m off the path) and Kin Shi No Taki (800 m).

Ha Goromo Iwa Curved Basalt, Sounkyo Gorge

Ha Goromo Iwa (890 m) had interesting curved strata caused by tectonic forces. All places are signposted. Most of the things on the left side were in the shade, even though it was noon. Several men bicycled past us in business suits!

Ginga-No-Taki

Ginga-no-taki, Sounkyo Gorge, 92-25

Ginga-No-Taki (G4.3) was the best waterfall. Unfortunately, it was along the highway. The best overall view is from the upper end of the parking lot. But you can better see a veil-like effect when you are close up.

Ryusei-No-Taki

Basalt Columns, Sounkyo Gorge, Daisetsuzan NP

We walked c. 200 m along the river. Ryusei-No-Taki (G4.3) was an okay waterfall. We continued to walk, but at this point, there really wasn’t anything interesting left to see.

Picnic Area

Autumn Trees, Obako, Sounkyo Gorge

Just before the road into town, we crossed a pedestrian-only bridge to a grassy picnic area among the trees. There was a booklet with all the hiking trails on Hokkaido being sold at the Sounkyo YH. Unfortunately, it is only in Kanji.

Lesley Downer

We learned a lot about Japanese culture by talking with people and living with Japanese families. We wrote about our experiences in the Guide to Japanese Social Norms. We learned quite a bit from Lesley Downer, whom we met at the Sounkyo Onsen Youth Hostel. She was 33 years old at that time and taught English at a university. She had lived in Japan for 3 years in Gifu.

Tea Ceremony, Urasenke, Kyoto

Located north of Nagoya, Gifu was a very conservative community. But it also had many people who were interested in traditional things. She learned Ikebana (flower arrangement), pottery, chado (tea ceremony), and Zen. Zen principles have had a major impact on Japanese art and culture.

Culture Lesson

Relationships

Women are expected to marry by 24; otherwise, something is wrong. Men stay out until midnight and get drunk. They can talk about sports all the time. It takes a long time to develop a friendship: The Japanese are like the English. It is difficult to meet people in Japan who like deep relationships; they can’t talk about themselves as individuals, nor ask personal questions.

Politeness

School Kids Bowing Good Morning, Shofukuji, Fukuoka

Politeness is very important in Japan. It is not polite to talk while eating. Some young people do talk. Japanese usually think about others. On the other hand, they are very indirect. They say things they don’t mean. They may say that you must come to visit me. But they never give their address. They can also tell you off in the most polite way – her former landlady told her how messy her kitchen was.

Language

Lesley speaks Japanese very well. There are many levels of communication, depending on the status of the person you are addressing. A lot of communication is nonverbal or intuitive. The aim of conversation is harmony, not communication. She says “hai” (yes) even when she doesn’t understand.

Kabuki

Shunkan Kabuki Play, Kyoto

Only men act, but the ones who portray women are superb. Tamasaburō Bandō V is one of the most celebrated onnagata — male actors who specialize in female roles. Get a Kabuki handbook in English. Ask the Tourist Information Centre (TIC) for current productions.

Compliments

Japanese always give compliments – you’re intelligent, beautiful – that you start to believe them. One reason foreigners like to stay in Japan is that they receive no criticism.

Gifts

Kokeshi Dolls, Gift of the Umetsu Family, Yamagata

Always give a gift if you stay at a Japanese home. The longer one plans to stay, the better the gift. Go to an expensive store. Wrapping is important. It is all show and pretense. It doesn’t matter what you bring. One time, she got baby blue booties. When you give your gift (to the wife), say “Please accept this miserable, cheap gift”, even though it is not.

Omotenashi, the Japanese concept of hospitality, also applies to guests. Offering a gift when a guest admires an object is an extension of this hospitality.

Affluence & Status

Show and status are very important. The Japanese toss away used or even slightly damaged things. If clothes are torn, they throw them out. If a woman wears a mended top, they think she is poor and go and buy her a new one! They throw out “old” equipment and buy the latest models! Many would rather buy a new car than pay for an expensive car checkup (every 3 years). As a result, the Japanese don’t maintain their cars.

Parties

Everyone makes a speech (boring) about anything. Then they eat. After the meal, they sing songs. Endings are always abrupt.

From Hokkaido, we headed south to Tohoku (Northern Honshu), as described in Explore Hidden Japanese Gems: From Miyako to Aomori.

Hokkaido Resources

Japan Hokkaido Google Map, our custom Google itinerary

Destinations – Hokkaido, JNTO Website

First-Time Guide to Hokkaidō, Lonely Planet Website

Hokkaido Love, Hokkaido Official Tourism Website

Other Places to See

You can find many hidden gems in Hokkaido. That does NOT mean there will be no visitors. Most tourists in Japan are domestic, and the Japanese are well aware of these “hidden gems”. Here are a few places to consider when you’re seeking a more tranquil experience.

Cherry Blossom Places

Hokkaido’s cherry blossom (sakura) season arrives later than the rest of Japan, typically in late April to early May. Similarly to temples, why do you have to go to the well-known cherry blossom places? There are several off-the-beaten-path spots where you can enjoy quiet cherry blossom viewing:

Lesser-Visited Sakura Places

Overcrowded Sakura Places

Wisteria Blossom Places

You can see wisteria from late May to early June, depending on location. This is outside the over-touristed Cherry Blossom and holiday season, which is April in Central Honshu.

Sapporo Weather

Hokkaido Best Time

May to September has the best high temperatures of 21.8°C (71.2°F). August is the hottest month, with an average high of 25°C (77°F). November is getting very cold with a high temperature of 7°C (44.6°F), and winter is frigid. The rainiest months are August (140 mm) and September (125 mm).

[strong][strong][strong][strong][strong]Hokkaido[/strong][/strong][/strong][/strong]Getting Around[/strong]

Hakodate is the southern port city of 234,700 people.
Tōyako has a population of 7,832 people.
Kamikawa (Sōunkyō) is a small town with 3,200 people.
Sapporo is a major city with 2.65 million people.

If you are travelling by bus or train, you may have to exclude the places that are only accessible by rental car or taxi. The places best suited for a rental car are Akan-ko, Io-san, Kussharo-ko, and Noboribetsu Onsen. Here are the train and bus fares from the Rome2Rio app:

If you are planning to see multiple, distant areas, check out a multi-city airfare.

Final Comments

We hope this post will encourage you to visit the intriguing Tohoku and escape the over-tourism of central Honshu island.

Surprising Fact for Today

Hokkaido has 52 volcanoes, of which 9 are active. About 10% of Japan’s land area is volcanic! For more surprising facts, read Unlock Japan: Insider Tips & FAQs.

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This was only a taste of Japan. What questions do you have? If you have been to Japan, share your experiences with us. How long is/was your trip?

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Other Posts You May Like

Here are other places to add to your itinerary as you head south from Tohoku towards Nara.

Hokkaido: Northeast Into Nature’s Wonderland

Hidden Japanese Gems: From Miyako to Aomori

Japanese Gems: From Kinkasan to Hiraizumi

Explore Hidden Gems in the Japanese Alps

Why Nikko Japan Should Not Be Missed

Embracing ‘Kayama Country’

Why Kanazawa Should Be on Your Japan Bucket List

Why Nara Should Be on Your Japan Bucket List

Travel Tips and Guides

Guide to Japanese Culture

Hidden Features of Japan

Insider Tips & FAQs

Is Japan Beautiful

Abbreviations

Google Maps Ratings

Google Maps provides a rating from 0 to 5 for all sights, hotels, and restaurants (but not cities). All our recommendations are appended with the rating (prefixed with a G) from Google Maps. Google Ratings are based on feedback from locals as well as tourists. They are much more reliable than travel booking websites or tourist anecdotes.

We consider a score of 4 to 4.39 to be Very Good and 4.4 to 5 to be Excellent. Yet, in Japan, many must-see sights are rated by the Japanese as 4.2. Based on this, we would consider the range of 4.2 to 5 to be Excellent.

All photos and text © Terra Encounters
Except where noted CC BY-SA (Creative Commons Wikipedia)
Japan Encounters is a subsidiary of Terra Encounters

Asia Encounters

2025-05-06 12:49:07

Explore Kyoto’s Secrets: Must-Visit Eastern Sights

Why Visit Kyoto

Before we visited Japan, we were intrigued by Kyoto. Name recognition still draws tourists. Unfortunately, tourists go to the same few places in Kyoto, causing overcrowding. Kyoto is still a must-see place where you can immerse yourself in Japanese art and architecture, culture and cuisine. You can enjoy geisha performances, cherry blossoms, elaborate kimonos, Zen karesansui gardens, and tea ceremonies.

Kyoto is a former capital of Japan as well as the home of the Emperor. As a result, 1,600 Buddhist temples and 400 Shinto shrines are located in Kyoto. You can easily get templed out! This blog promises valuable insights about which places you should visit and why.

This post is a one-day self-guided walk on the eastern side of Kyoto. We have listed all six Kyoto itineraries in the section Visiting Kyoto below.

Author & Photographer: George Mitchell

George’s Bio

Our advice is not influenced by affiliate links — we have none. Our itineraries, photos, and advice come from three years of travelling around the world, including three months in Japan. We are avid hikers, nature lovers, and photographers. We are students of art and architecture, culture and cuisine.

All the sights in this itinerary can be found on our custom Japan Kyoto Google Map. The points of interest are appended with their Google Maps Ratings, which range from G0 to G5.

Japanese Names

Name suffixes show the type of building. So “ji”, “dera” or “tera” is a generic Buddhist temple. The suffix “in” is a Buddhist temple in a garden, especially a Zen temple. For more useful information, see the Guide to the Japanese Language.

Generally, I write the names of sights in Japanese (Romaji) because asking for directions with English names will be futile. Writing Kōmyō-ji Temple is redundant, but sometimes I add “temple” for those readers who missed this section.

East Kyoto

The Emperor of Japan was often just a figurehead. The real power was often held by the shogun and his daimyos. For a discussion on Japanese social strata, capitals, and historical periods, see Japanese Capitals and Art Periods. There were four major capitals in Japan, including Kyoto. This post is a walking itinerary on the east side of Kyoto.

Ginkaku-ji

Fee: JPY 500 (USD 3.52)
Hours: Mar to Nov 08:30 to 17:00; Dec to Feb 09:00 to 16:30
Bus 203: 7 mins. from Demachiyanagi Station to Jodo-ji then walk 10 mins.

https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=23497582" title="Ginkaku-ji, Kyoto, Japan By Oilstreet - Own work, CC BY 2.5, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=23497582" class="has-alt-description">Ginkaku-ji, Kyoto CC BY-SA Wikipedia

Ginkaku-ji (G4.6) is celebrated for its appalling history and its calming Zen design principles. The architecture reflects subtle elegance rather than ostentation. But don’t come here expecting to see a silver-clad pavilion. The sun lit up some beautiful trees and rocks surrounding a pond, but not the “Silver Pavilion”.

Tranquil Forest, Ginkaku-ji, Kyoto

Behind the pond, a trail went up to a spring. Again, there were nice highlights of thick green moss, orange autumn leaves, and green bamboo trees.

Shogun Ashikaga Yoshimasa

The historical background is appalling. From 1447 to 1462, there were earthquakes, floods, pandemics, famine, and uprisings. Despite these disasters, Shogun Ashikaga Yoshimasa promoted the Ōnin War. Kyoto was destroyed, and the war spread throughout Japan. Instead of helping the people, the Ashikaga were more interested in their own palaces. Unscrupulous Yoshimasa (first name) was like Roman Emperor Nero, but he had a strong aesthetic sense.

In contrast to this devastation, Yoshimasa planned to imitate his grandfather’s Gold Pavilion (Kinkaku-ji). In 1483, Yoshimasa built his retirement villa, which was then in the countryside outside of Kyoto. Architect-painter Sōami intended to plate the Silver Pavilion (Ginkaku-ji) with silver to compete with the Gold Pavilion(Kinkaku-ji). But it was never done.

After Yoshimasa’s death, the buildings were converted into a Zen temple as per his will. After more years of war, the temple was restored in the 17th century. Reconstruction was done according to the original plans. But since Kinkaku-ji was burned down in 1950, this temple is the last building remaining from the Ashikaga shoguns.

Togu-do and the Tea Ceremony

https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=6361597" title="Togu-do, Ginkaku-ji, Kyoto, Japan By Dingy - Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=6361597" class="has-alt-description">Togu-do, Ginkaku-ji, Kyoto, CC BY-SA Wikipedia

The Togu-do is one of the oldest surviving structures from the original temple complex. It was built as a private worship hall for Yoshimasa. The hall originally housed an Amitabha Buddha statue, reflecting Yoshimasa’s faith in Jodo Shinshū (Pure Land) Buddhism.

Togu-do, Ginkaku-ji, Kyoto

Togu-do contains the oldest surviving tea ceremony room in Japan. This era saw innovative developments in the tea ceremony, flower arrangement, and Zen-influenced art.

Zen Gardens

What we really like in Ginkaku-ji were the exquisitely designed gardens. The temples blended seamlessly with the water-based gardens in the photos above.

There was also a raked karesansui (dry landscape) garden called the “Sea of Silver Sand”. We were told it was in the shape of China’s West Lake with Fuji-san behind it. We did not find it particularly creative. But, it offers a tranquil space for reflection and meditation. The gardens are based on the Zen design principle of wabi-sabi—the beauty of imperfection and transience.

Philosophers’ Path

Walk: 225 m, 3 mins, from Ginkaku-ji; 2 km, 29 mins. from Demachiyanagi

https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=90527" title="Philosophers' Path, Kyoto, Japan By David Monniaux - Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=90527" class="has-alt-description">Philosophers’ Path, Kyoto CC BY-SA Wikipedia

Tetsugaku no Michi (G4.6) means Philosophers’ Path. It is a (usually) serene 2-km trail in Kyoto’s Higashiyama district. On our first time, we did this walk after we visited the eastern temples. We turned west at Reikan-ji, which is just south of Anraku-ji Temple. It was a very pleasant 18-minute walk north along the canal. Many visitors feel that the most evocative stretch is the section near the Honen-in Temple.

As it was dusk, there were virtually no tourists — just locals going about their daily business. It was quiet, almost village-like. While there were some tourist shops and modernization, it had not yet spoiled the atmosphere. We went into the Shirakawa-dori food market and got a good deal on mandarin oranges. We ate on one of the benches beside the canal.

https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=3172309" title="Sakura Viewing, Philosophers' Path, Kyoto, Japan By Sdalu CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=3172309" class="has-alt-description">Sakura Viewing, Philosophers’ Path, Kyoto CC BY-SA Wikipedia

Even though it was just a pleasant walk, we enjoyed this area so much that we returned during the day. This time there were many loud Asian tourists, but at least there were few cars.

We ambled under lots of cherry trees, but it was autumn (November). In the spring (April), this is one of the most famous and crowded sakura (cherry blossom) viewing places in Kyoto. We headed south from Reikan-ji to Eikan-dō Temple. This walk was more natural, and one part was along a low cliff with no houses.

Eikan-dō Temple

Fee: JPY 600 (USD 4.17); Autumn: JPY 1000 (USD 6.95)
Hours: 09:00 to 17:00; Nov 11 – Dec 5: evening also
Walk: 1 km, 19 mins. from Philosopher’s Path north end

https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=77468579" title="Interior, Eikan-do, Kyoto, Japan By Zairon - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=77468579" class="has-alt-description">Interior, Eikan-do, Kyoto CC BY-SA Wikipedia

Many travellers appreciate beginning their stroll near Eikan-dō Temple (G4.6) at the southern end of the Philosophers’ Path. This temple, with its serene gardens and rich history, sets a reflective tone before you continue along the canal-lined route.

Autumn Leaves, Eikan-dō, Kyoto

We visited Eikan-dō, but we were not impressed by the grounds. We did not go visit the hall as there were streams of tour groups entering. In retrospect, looking at the photos online, we should have visited the interior.

Tea Ceremony

Tea Ceremony, Urasenke Chado Centre, Kyoto
When we visited many years ago, we attended tea ceremonies at the Urasenke Chado Centre (G4.3) in Kyoto and a teahouse in Nara. We noticed the flowers in the background, which were used to create a connection with nature. The ceremony often involves a shared appreciation of tea’s flavour, fragrance, and aesthetic presentation.
Tea Ceremony, Urasenke Chado Centre, Kyoto
The act of preparing and serving tea is a meditative ritual, refined by Zen Buddhists. Every movement is deliberate and precise. Even the cleansing of utensils and whisking of matcha (green tea) is performed with mindful attention. The tea utensils are designed with subtle asymmetries and irregular textures. Zen celebrates wabi-sabi, the beauty of imperfection and transience. The tea ceremony is a meditative practice that invites silent introspection. It creates a meditative space where the bustle of everyday life just falls away.

Today, there are other more highly rated places like Tea Ceremony Gen-An (G4.8) near Ginkaku-ji. Two other places are near Kiyomizu-dera in the south: Tea Ceremony Nagomi (G4.9) and Tea Ceremony Ju-An (G4.9).

Honen-in

Fee: free
Hours: 06:00 to 16:00
Walk: 790 m, 10 mins. from Ginkaku-ji via Philosophers’ Path

Gate, Honen-in, Kyoto

We enjoyed a short visit to Hōnen-in (G4.4). A path through the forest brought us to a good view from the bottom of the stairs. The moss-covered, thatched gate symbolizes purity and simplicity.

Karesansui, Honen-in, Kyoto

Here we met the twin sand mounds known as the Byakusadan. The mounds offer paintings in raked sand (karesansui) that are changed with the seasons.

Hōnen

The monk Hōnen converted people to a sect based solely on faith. It requires the chanting of Nembutsu: “Namu Amida Butsu” to reach nirvana. The sect became known as Jodo. Today, the Pure Land sect is the largest in Japan.

Woman Raking Leaves, Honen-in, Kyoto

We went behind the building where many people were sitting and reading. This is one of the quieter temples as it is not on the tour group route. We felt a deep sense of solitude. We walked through a heavily treed area with many cedars. An old woman with a stooped back was raking up the fallen autumn leaves.

Anraku-ji

Fee: JPY 500 (USD 3.52)
Hours: Sat-Sun 09:00 to 16:30 Apr-May, Nov-Dec
Walk: 294 m, 4 mins. from Honen-in; 2.8 km, 33 mins. from Demachiyanagi Station

Moss-lined Stairs, Anraku-ji, Kyoto

Anraku-ji (G4.2) is known for its picturesque maple-lined approach and thatched-roof entry gate. Moss lines both sides of the stairway leading to the thatched gate. The entrance is so modest as to be invisible.

The Shaped Path, Anraku-ji, Kyoto

It was not open, though we could look into the front garden with its round-shaped trees. Anraku-ji is not open to visitors year-round like many other temples in Kyoto. In fact, it maintains quite limited public access. It is a popular spot during the spring and fall foliage (momigi) seasons. The ground is padded with moss, a soft contrast to the exposed tree roots.

Moss and Trees, Anraku-ji, Kyoto

Jodo Sect

Buddhism, like Christianity, had sectarian disputes that led to violence. Jodo was a made-in-Japan sect that simplified Buddhist doctrine, which appealed to many Japanese. The new Jodo sect was opposed by Enryaku-ji (Tendai sect) and Kofuku-ji (Hossō sect). These two sects had a powerful army of warrior monks (sōhei). Many members of the Emperor’s court had converted to Jodo. Then two favourite concubines not only adopted Jodo but also became nuns. Rumours were spread that the concubines were in love with Anraku and Juren. The enraged Emperor had Anraku and Juren executed in 1207.

Hōnen went into self-exile. After he returned, he built the temple in 1211 to honour Anraku. The original Hondo of the 13th century was destroyed. The current hall dates to 1581. It houses a sublime image of Amida Buddha.

Nanzen-ji

Fee: free; Hojo: JPY 600 (USD 4.22); Sanmon Gate balcony: JPY 500 (USD 3.52);
Hours: Mar-Nov 08:40 to 17:00; Dec-Feb 08:40 to 16:30
Train: 25 mins. from Demachiyanagi to Sanjokeihan, then walk 10 mins.
Walk: 1 km, 18 mins. from Anraku-ji

Nanzen-ji (G4.5) is one of Kyoto’s most revered Zen temples. But originally it was the retirement villa for Emperor Kameyama. Later, it became the head temple of the Rinzai Zen sect. Nanzen-ji is admired for its rich history and serene natural settings.

Nanzen-ji Sanmon Gate

https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=7567257" title="Sanmon Gate, Nanzen-ji, Kyoto By 663highland - Own work, CC BY 2.5, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=7567257" class="has-alt-description">Sanmon Gate, Nanzen-ji, Kyoto

One of its most striking features is the expansive, imposing Sanmon Gate, constructed in the early 17th century. This gate offers breathtaking views of Kyoto from its balcony.

Nanzen-ji Hatto

https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=7567279" title="Hatto Hall, Nanzen-ji, Kyoto By 663highland - Own work, CC BY 2.5, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=7567279" class="has-alt-description">Hatto Hall, Nanzen-ji, Kyoto

Hatto Hall serves as a Dharma (lecture) hall for monks, where Zen teachings and sermons are delivered. Hatto Hall is not accessible to visitors.

Nanzen-ji Hojo

Fusuma Paintings, Nanzen-ji, Kyoto
The Hojo (the abbot’s residence) looks like a very simple building from the outside. But inside, it is decorated with magnificent painted fusuma (sliding panels). The Kanō painters were renowned for their distinctive brushwork and the elegant integration of Chinese techniques with Japanese aesthetics. The Kanō style perfectly complements the Zen atmosphere of Nanzen-ji.

The Red Flowering Tree may be the intense reddish blooms of a Kanzan cherry tree. The red hues often symbolize vitality, transformation, and the fleeting beauty of life. This tree invokes themes of impermanence and renewal—a reminder to appreciate life’s transient moments. The rugged rocks symbolize solidity and permanence. They act as a counterbalance to the delicate, ephemeral nature of the flowering tree. This contrast is central to many Japanese landscape paintings, highlighting the interplay between change and constancy.

https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=11987225" title="Fusuma Painting, Hojo, Nanzen-ji, Kyoto By Daderot - Self-photographed, Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=11987225" class="has-alt-description">Fusuma Painting, Hojo, Nanzen-ji, Kyoto

This painting is called Guntsuru-zu, which literally means “painting of a flock of cranes”. Cranes are venerated in Japanese culture and symbolize longevity, good fortune, and fidelity. Their elegant form evokes harmony with nature—a key element in Zen aesthetics.

Nanzen-ji Zen Karesansui Garden

https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=866820" title="Karesansui, Nanzen-ji, Kyoto, Japan By hiro / Hiro2006, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=866820" class="has-alt-description">Karesansui, Nanzen-ji, Kyoto

Outside is a celebrated Zen karesansui garden. The dry landscape garden combines raked sand with moss, rocks, and trees. The stones are supposed to be tigers and their cubs—an arrangement that reflects both spontaneity and meticulous care.

Garden, Nanzen-ji, Kyoto

The garden is said to have been created by the famous tea master and garden designer Kobori Enshū. Kobori designed the karesansui garden of Ryotan-ji, Hikone. Note the use of borrowed scenery of temple roofs and mountains. There was a great feeling of space and greenness.

Nanzen-in

https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=2930552" title="Nanzen-in, Nanzen-ji, Kyoto CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=2930552" class="has-alt-description">Nanzen-in, Nanzen-ji, Kyoto CC BY-SA Wikipedia

Nanzen-in is a sub-temple within Nanzen-ji that was originally built as the personal chapel for Emperor Kameyama in 1264. It has a [strong]Kamakura Period[/strong] statue of Emperor Kameyama and a garden.

Momiji, Nanzen-ji, Kyoto CC BY-SA Wikipedia

Nanzen-ji is a good place to view the maple leaves in November. While it is a popular destination, Nanzen-ji felt less congested than iconic sites like Kinkaku-ji or Fushimi Inari Shrine. Visitors spread out over its expansive grounds.

Shōren-in

Fee: JPY 600 (USD 4.17)
Hours: 09:00-17:00
Walk: 1 km, 14 mins. south of Heian Jingu; 2 km, 22 mins. east of Nanzen-ji

Water Garden, Shoren-in, Kyoto

If you have more time, you can now see Shōren-in (G4.5). We really enjoyed visiting its beautifully manicured gardens and understated architecture. The atmosphere was pleasant and relaxing. This temple could be added to this itinerary. I already described Shōren-in Temple in the post Discover 3 Magical Hidden Gardens inside Crowded Kyoto.

Kyoto Resources

Japanese Capitals and Art Periods also describe social strata

Japan Kyoto Map, our custom Google itinerary

Kyoto, a Contemplative Guide, Gouverneur Mosher, Charles Tuttle Co.

This book is available online, but it is very expensive. We bought it in Kyoto. It is the ideal guidebook for Kyoto. His interesting stories give you a real insight into Japanese art, architecture, culture, and history.

Kyoto Attractions Map, web page

Kyoto Travel Map, PDF download

Visiting Kyoto

Karesansui, Nanzen-ji, Kyoto

When NOT to Visit

If you don’t like crowds, then you won’t like Kyoto. There are 50 million tourists per year visiting the former capital, and many of them are Japanese. But Kyoto is one of the best places to experience Japanese art and culture. It is still a must-see. To remediate this over-tourism, you can:

• Avoid the Sakura (cherry blossom) season — April;
• Avoid all national holidays — late April and mid-August;
• Avoid peak visiting hours — from 10:30 to 15:00 hrs, when the tour groups loudly invade the grounds;
• Avoid the heavily over-touristed places like Kinkaku-ji, Fushimi Inari Shrine, and Arashiyama Bamboo Forest;
• Visit the less touristy sites.

Where to Visit

Kyoto has been organized into a set of self-guided walks by geographic area. The West Kyoto route includes the most famous but also the most overcrowded sights. Note that no place will be absent of people. The main group of tourists are the 125 million Japanese, and they are aware of all these places.

Kyoto’s Secrets: Gorgeous Gion to Kawaii Kimonos

Enchanting Kyoto: From Golden Temples to Maple Mysteries

Explore Kyoto’s Secrets: Must-Visit Eastern Sights

Discover 3 Magical Hidden Gardens in Crowded Kyoto

Discover 3 Charming Hidden Gems in Kyoto

Explore Hikone Castle & Gardens: Hidden Gems

Each walk (post) requires one day. If you want to do a thorough exploration of Kyoto, then you will need six days (seven nights).

Off The Beaten Track Kyoto

If you want to avoid the over-touristed places, then there are three posts to explore “hidden gems”. The 3 Charming Hidden Gems are Byodo-in, Sambo-in, and Shisendo – some of our favourite places. The 3 Magical Hidden Gardens in Crowded Kyoto are Shoren-in, Enryaku-ji, and Daitoku-ji (Daisen-in), located in the outskirts of Kyoto. Finally, Hikone is also a “hidden gem” because it is one hour away.

Other Places to See

You can find other hidden gems in Kyoto. That does NOT mean there will be no visitors. Most tourists in Japan are domestic, and the Japanese are well aware of these “hidden gems”. Here are a few places to consider when you’re seeking a more tranquil Kyoto experience.

Kyoto’s Less Visited Places

Otagi Nenbutsu-ji (G4.7) is renowned for its whimsical collection of around 1,200 stone Rakan (Buddha) statues, each with its unique, expressive face.

Saihō-ji in Koke-dera (G4.4) is famous for its enchanting moss garden. It keeps its visitor numbers low by requiring advance reservations for garden tours.

Myoshin-ji (G4.4) is made up of many sub-temples, many of which remain largely unexplored by international tourists.

Kyoto’s Most Visited Places

Not only are there 50 million tourists in Kyoto, but they mainly go to the same places. No wonder it feels overcrowded. If you do not like crowds, here are the places to avoid especially in April:

Kinkaku-ji (G4.5) is the Temple of the Golden Pavilion. Its shimmering gold façade against a reflective pond makes for a picture-perfect scene that draws massive crowds almost year-round.

Kiyomizu-dera (G4.5) has sweeping views but is extremely crowded, especially during the cherry blossom and autumn foliage peak seasons.

Nanzen-ji (G4.5) is a Zen temple with beautiful gardens and historic buildings. It draws large numbers of tourists on weekends and in peak seasons.

Tenryu-ji (G4.4) is a Zen temple and garden famous for its cherry blossoms, autumn foliage, and the nearby Arashiyama Bamboo Forest.

Fushimi Inari-taisha (G4.7) is a Shinto Shrine famous for its torii gates.

Gion is the geisha district, which has banned all photography due to unruly tourists harassing geishas.

Less Visited Cherry Blossom Places

Similarly to temples, why do you have to go to the well-known cherry blossom places? There are several off-the-beaten-path spots where you can enjoy quiet cherry blossom viewing amid traditional backdrops:

Kiyamachi district is very lively by day, but its canal area transforms in the evening. The illuminated cherry blossom-lined walkways here are less congested at night. They offer a hushed and atmospheric experience that’s both romantic and reflective.

Haradani-en (G4.4) is a hidden garden that is a treat for those who love weeping cherry trees. Open only during the blooming season, Haradani-en offers a tranquil, almost otherworldly atmosphere. The garden’s peaceful vibe and carefully preserved natural beauty make it a perfect retreat.

Takenaka Inari Shrine (G4.2) is part of Yoshida Shrine, which is near the summit of Mount Yoshida. It features a striking row of red torii gates. In the spring, the cherry blossom branches sprawling around these gates create a unique, magical tunnel effect. It has far fewer visitors than its more famous counterpart, Fushimi Inari-taisha.

The Nanzen-ji (G4.5) temple is historically significant and visited by many. Its expansive grounds and lesser-known garden areas lend themselves to quieter cherry blossom viewing. The temple’s tranquil setting allows for a reflective stroll beneath blossoming trees without overwhelming crowds.

Shinyo-do Hall and Kurodani Temple are less-noticed areas in Kyoto. Due to limited bus parking and its tucked-away location, this spot stays relatively serene.

Takano-gawa (river) is lined with cherry trees but enjoys a lower profile compared to the well-known Kamo-gawa. The riverside stroll under its cascade of blossoms is perfect for those looking for a nature walk.

Kyoto Weather

Season – Months	Temp °C	Temp °F
Spring: April–May	22.5°	72.5°
Summer: June–August	31.0°	87.8°
Fall: September–November	23.0°	73.4°

[strong]Kyoto Best Time[/strong]

March and April are the peak spring months due to the cherry blossoms. November is the peak autumn month due to the autumn leaves. June is the rainy season. August is the hottest month, with an average high of 33°C. September is very warm at 29°C.

[strong][strong]Kyoto[/strong] Getting Around[/strong]

[strong]Kyoto[/strong] is a small city of only 367,400 people.

Route by Auto	Distance by Road	Time by Road
Kyoto – Osaka	50 km	0:50 hrs
Kyoto – Nara	42 km	0:36 hrs
Kyoto – Uji	19 km	0:22 hrs
Kyoto – Kanazawa	360 km	3:04 hrs

Get the Rome2Rio app if you are travelling by bus or train. Generally, it is much faster to travel by train. These are the train fares and times.

Route by Train or Bus	Fare JPY	Fare USD	Time Hrs
Kyoto – Osaka	JPY 360 – 4,000	USD 2.40 – 26.62	0:12
Kyoto – Nara	JPY 590 – 630	USD 3.95 – 4.22	0:38
Kyoto – Uji	JPY 240 – 310	USD 1.60 – 2.06	0:21
Kyoto – Kanazawa	JPY 7,536 – 11,161	USD 50.14 – 74.27	2:09

If you are not renting a car but plan to see both Kanazawa and Kyoto, then consider a multi-city airfare.

Final Comments

We hope this post will encourage you to visit intriguing Kyoto despite the over-tourism. It is here where we learned about tea ceremonies and Zen karesansui gardens, temples and culture. You can discover traditional Japan without having to visit the overcrowded “famous” places.

Surprising Fact for Today

The Shogun or military dictator was the main power in Japan, not the emperor. For more surprising facts, read Unlock Japan: Insider Tips & FAQs.

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Other Posts You May Like

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Guide to Japanese Culture

Hidden Features of Japan

Insider Tips & FAQs

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Google Maps Ratings

Google Maps provides a rating from 0 to 5 for all sights, hotels, and restaurants (but not cities). All our recommendations are appended with the rating (prefixed with a G) from Google Maps. Google Ratings are based on feedback from locals as well as tourists. They are much more reliable than travel booking websites or tourist anecdotes.

We consider a score of 4 to 4.39 to be Very Good and 4.4 to 5 to be Excellent. Yet, in Japan, many must-see sights are rated by the Japanese as 4.2. Based on this, we would consider the range of 4.2 to 5 to be Excellent.

All photos and text © Terra Encounters;
except where noted CC BY-SA (Creative Commons Wikipedia)
Japan Encounters is a subsidiary of Terra Encounters

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Why Visit Tohoku

Tohoku is located north of Sendai. Here is a place where you can immerse yourself in Japanese nature, culture and cuisine. It is also the best place in Japan to get away from over-tourism.

This post is a multi-day road trip in the southern part of Tohoku. This itinerary covers the very popular Matsushima and Kinkasan Island.

Author & Photographer: George Mitchell

George’s Bio

Our advice is not influenced by affiliate links — we have none. Our itineraries, photos, and advice come from three years of travelling around the world, including three months in Japan. We are avid hikers, nature lovers, and photographers. We are students of art and architecture, culture and cuisine.

All the sights in this itinerary can be found on our custom Japan Tohoku Google Map. The points of interest are appended with their Google Maps Ratings, which range from G0 to G5.

Japanese Names

Name suffixes show the type of building. So “ji”, “dera” or “tera” is a generic Buddhist temple. The suffix “in” is a Buddhist temple in a garden, especially a Zen temple. For more useful information, see the Guide to the Japanese Language.

Generally, I write the names of sights in Japanese (Romaji) because asking for directions with English names will be futile. Writing Kōmyō-ji Temple is redundant, but sometimes I add “temple” for those readers who missed this section.

Southern Tohoku

It was September 17th, and we had just finished seeing the Reitai-sai Festival in Kamakura. Rather than going to Kyoto next, we decided to head north. We wanted to go hiking in Hokkaido before it got too cold. We took a train to get out of Tokyo then we hitchhiked to Sendai. Tohoku is the northernmost region of Honshu island. It stretches from Fukushima in the southern Tohoku to Aomori in the north.

We got a lift with a truck driver who spoke no English. He went out of his way to leave us at a supermarket in Iwanuma. We got another lift quickly with Katsuichi Katagi, a 33-year-old engineer. He bicycled across Europe for three months. He used his CB radio to find drivers heading to our destination, Kinkazan Island! Then he spoke with his wife and invited us to his home. We had supper with them — cuttlefish, octopus (raw), salad, and delicious edamame. We also had a tea similar to Longqing (Dragon Well) from Hangzhou, China.

Tōhoku Earthquake

2011 Tohoku Tsunami, Miyako, CC BY SA Wikipedia

The 2011 Tōhoku earthquake had a massive 9.1 magnitude. It was the most powerful earthquake in Japan, and the fourth most powerful earthquake in the world since seismography began in 1900. The undersea earthquake triggered powerful tsunami waves as high as 40.5 m (133 ft) in Miyako. The tsunami moved at 700 kph (435 mph) and travelled up to 10 km (6 mi) inland!

2011 Tohoku Earthquake, Nuclear Power Plant, Fukushima, CC BY SA Wikipedia

The tsunami caused the Fukushima Daiichi nuclear disaster. The meltdown of three of its reactors led to the discharge of radioactive water. We were worried about how this has impacted the region. Apparently, things are now back to normal.

Matsushima

Matsushima is a smaller city just north of Sendai. The youth hostel (YH) gave us our own room (4 bunk beds). It was very clean, but Corinne had an allergic reaction to something and couldn’t sleep at all! We ate breakfast in the meeting room. It was very quiet with only four other people!

Kinkasan Island

Fee: JPY 900 (USD 6.25) one-way
Ferry: 20–35 minutes from Ayukawa port
Boats: SeaDream, Kinkasan Kanko Cruise and Ajishima Line
Frequency: Some ferries run every two hours; more frequently during peak season

Tetsuya (~ 45 years old) and his wife Katsuyo Taketani picked us up from the YH at 10:00 h. They could not speak English. Yet they had offered via the ham radio the previous day to take us to Kinkasan Island! The generosity of the Japanese amazed us.

Katsuyu & Tetsuya Taketani, Kobaruto Line Viewpoint

The first part of the 1.5 hr drive was uneventful. The Tabaruto Line toll road was more interesting, with lots of forest. The hillside drive had open views. The first viewpoint of scattered islands sprinkled on the ocean was particularly good.

We arrived at the port of Ayukawa at 11:30 h and departed on the 12:30 ferry. The Taketani came with us on the ferry. Maybe they wanted to make sure we got there safely? To the left of the wharf, we walked with them up a short but steep climb to an important shrine. Corinne was very out of breath because of her constricted lungs. This was due to mould and lack of sleep at the Matsushima YH.

Koganeyama Shrine

Fee: free
Hours: 07:00 to 16:30; Winter closes at 16:00

Bronze Burner, Koganeyama Shrine, Kinkasan

The Koganeyama Shrine (G4.5) is a Shinto shrine where Japanese seek blessings for wealth and good fortune. The old wooden temple had a large bell which people would ring, put in a donation, and then clap their hands. You can see the long pull cord on the right side of the image above.

Kinkasan means Gold Mountain. Gold was found on the island.

Katsuyu writing wish, Koganeyama Shrine, Kinkasan

We had to ask the Motsu-Ji YH warden for a room together. He tried to make out as if he was doing a big favour, bending the rules (not true)! In a big contrast to Matsushima YH, they wouldn’t serve supper or breakfast to a German couple with a baby who arrived at 18:00 hrs! You had to order by 17:00 hrs. Not everyone is nice in Japan!

Katsuyo and other Japanese wrote out a wish on an ema or wooden plaque. Then they hung the ema on a wishing board. The gods are believed to get the messages and (hopefully) grant the wishes.

Ebisu & Daikokuten Bronze Statues, Koganeyama Shrine, Kinkasan

At the entrance, there is a torii gate and two bronze statues. These statues represents two of the Seven Gods of Fortune. They symbolize prosperity and abundance in Japanese culture. There is also has a unique ritual here where visitors wash their credit cards in one of the fountains next to the statues to obtain wealth and fortune.

Ebisu Statue, Koganeyama Shrine, Kinkasan

Ebisu, the god of fishermen and commerce, wears a joyful smile. He holds a fish around his neck, symbolizing bountiful catches and success. The temple has housed an image of the god of good fortune since its foundation in the eighth century.

Daikokuten Statue, Koganeyama Shrine, Kinkasan

Daikokuten is the god of wealth and agriculture. He carries a treasure sack and a mallet, signifying financial prosperity and protection for merchants and farmers.

Kinkasan Youth Hostel

Etched Bronze on Stairs, Koganeyama Shrine, Kinkasan

The Kinkasan Youth Hostel was next to the shrine. It had very large tatami dorm rooms. At first, they wanted us to separate, but there were no other people at the hostel! After a phone call, we got a separate room. But it was also very moldy — they didn’t keep the doors open to air out the rooms. But the form was bilingual, so it was easy to order supper and breakfast. We stayed here for 3 days.

Finally, we got to enjoy the best part of the YH. But we were told that we had to go there at 17:00 hrs! The Japanese men (and I) sat on plastic stools and used a hand shower in the shower room. Then we entered the very hot stainless steel pool. The second story hot pool had views of the forest throughout the glass canopy. Monkeys climbed over the glass roof to watch us! Wow! This is a reversal of the Jigokudani Monkey Park, where humans go to watch macaques in the hot springs.

Tony, a 22-year-old Kiwi, came on the second night. He had lived in Japan for 18 months. He told us that companies don’t pay that well, but they provide many fringe benefits: dinners after work, vacations (in the past without spouses), and two bonuses per year. They often learn English because it is something to do, or the company tells them to.

Sen Nin Sawa – Nio Zake Trail

Hiking Trails, Kinkasan Island
It may have been expat Tony who told us to go on this route in orange and translated the Kanji into Romaji and English. The whole trail took us 2:48 hrs. walking time plus stops for lunch (1:18 hrs.), views, and photos.

We walked up the stairs at 10:30 to the shrine. The trail continued for five minutes to the right, passing through a small torii gate. We continued our pleasant uphill walk.

Corinne on the Stewartia serrata root trail, Kinkasan

There were trees whose roots spread visibly across the ground. I wrote “streara trees” in our diary. But according to AI, they were probably Stewartia serrata, a tree species known for its beautiful flowers. The island is covered with dense bamboo groves, proving our point that you do not have to go to Arashiyama Bamboo Grove in over-touristed Kyoto.

After about 37 minutes, we saw a small shrine with Jizo figures. We passed the shortcut trail junction to Niozake.

Deer, Kinkasan

At about 40 minutes into the walk, we saw deer and wild monkeys on the trail. They fled up the trees.

Kinkasan Peak

View of Islands, Kinkasan Peak

After 47 minutes, we saw the nicest view just before reaching Kinkasan Peak. Looking north, we saw some islands. The views east at the top are just open seas; west, hilly mainland. We ate lunch at noon after looking at a small, locked shrine. There were picnic tables just below the peak and before the trail junction signpost.

We veered left on a very steep trail with lots of rocks. There were mainly deciduous trees (maples?) and ferns. The only people we saw were a school group.

Sennin Sawa

View left of Senjingsawa, Kinkasan

Senjojiki is a scenic coastal area known for its dramatic rock formations and breathtaking ocean views. The name “Senjojiki” means “a thousand tatami mats,” referring to the flat, layered rock formations that resemble traditional Japanese flooring.

At 14:00 h, we arrived at Sennin Sawa, a narrow but deep gorge.

View south of Senjingsawa, Kinkasan

This was a highlight of the hike. Broad, smoothed-out rocks were on our right. With the sun finally appearing, we sat down and took in the view. We watched waves foaming over the rocky coast. Unfortunately, no islands were visible, just open sea.

Obako was another nice viewpoint with three islands to the north. The trail continues along the pounding coast to Sai No Kawala. The next section has many ups and downs with stairs.

Splendid Earth-boring Beetle (Geotrupes splendidus), Kinkasan

We saw this metallic purple Splendid Earth-boring Beetle. It was a creature like in a sci-fi movie. The males dig burrows under decaying fungi, creating tunnels 5 to 8 inches deep, where they attract females. It is active at night, feeding mostly on fungi. Its antennae have flared tips, which help it detect odours in the soil.
Paeonia obovata, Kinkasan
We did not even know what this plant was — there were no apps in those days. These are seeds of the Paeonia obovata. Native to Northeast Asia, its common name is Woodland peony. After blooming, it produces eye-catching seed pods—when ripe, they open to reveal glossy blue-black seeds against a bright red interior, adding late-season visual interest. It has cultural significance, with its purple blooms symbolizing love, prosperity, and healing in various traditions

Parts of the trail were overgrown. We saw two dark green snakes and Fudu Go ya, an old little hut.

Kan Ka Ho Deer

Deer in Park, Kinkasan

Kan Ka Ho (Watch Deer Peak) is located near the port. It was a good place to photograph deer on the grassy slopes with islands and a coastline in the background.

Deer, Kinkasan

Kinkasan has over 500 deer that freely roam the island, like the deer in Nara Park. Deer are viewed as messengers of the gods in the Shinto religion.

Skai Yama Koen Deer

Deer, Kinkasan

Skai Yama Koen (Seer Mountain Park) is located near the port. We watched male (antlered) deer in a large pen feeding on branches. We saw a very short episode of sparring with antlers. Sparring typically occurs outside the peak mating season (the rut) and is a way for bucks to test each other’s strength without serious injury.

Ikayaki

George is eating squid, Kinkasan

At the port, we had one of the most tasty delicacies in Japan! The barbecued squid dish is Ikayaki—a popular street food where squid is grilled whole and brushed with a soy sauce glaze.

Japanese Social Problems

We climbed up the road to the shrine YH at 16:48 hrs, just in time for another great bath! We met Tony, who told us that if a gaijin marries a Japanese woman, he does not automatically get citizenship! He could still be rejected when he applies after five years of residency in Japan. There is no guarantee.

There is high pressure to do well in exams in high school to get into college. Tony told us two girls holding hands jumped together in front of a train.

Suicide is a serious issue among Japanese teens. In 2024, Japan recorded a record number of 529 student suicides. The suicide rate for all age groups in Japan was 16.3 per 100,000 people compared to the USA, 14.7; France, 13.7; Canada, 13; and the UK, 10.7.

It is not that there are not enough universities. The pressure is due to the intense competition for admission to prestigious institutions. Many companies prioritize graduates from elite universities, reinforcing the importance of exam success.

Around 40% of Japanese aged 25 to 64 have completed tertiary education. In Canada, it is 60%; UK, 51%; USA, 48%; and France, 42%.

The next morning, we had cuttlefish for breakfast. We took the 10:00 h ferry and met a photographer who offered us a lift! It took 1.5 hrs. to get to Matsushima.

Matsushima Kaigan

We left our backpacks outside his photography shop in the middle of Matsushima Kaigan. He told us no one would take our backpacks!

Godaido, Matsushima, CC BY SA Wikipedia

The small Godaido (Hall) was on a pine-clad islet next to the photo shop. We ate lunch here and admired the good view of the old wooden temple. It was originally founded in 807 CE and later rebuilt in 1604. The hall’s exterior features carvings of the twelve animals of the lunar calendar, adding a unique artistic touch

The red Sukashi Bridge was purposefully designed with gaps between the planks to encourage careful, mindful crossing. This is a Zen principle. The temple sits on a small islet near the pier, making it a symbol of Matsushima

View of Islands, Matsushima

Matsushima Kaigan is a scenic coastal area famous for its stunning views of Matsushima Bay, which is dotted with over 200 pine-covered islands. It has been celebrated as one of Japan’s Three Most Scenic Views. In the peak summer season, there are sightseeing cruises to enjoy the breathtaking island scenery.

Zuigan-ji Temple

Fee: JPY 700 (USD 4.80)
Hours: Apr-Sep 08:30 to 17:00

Zuigan-ji View, Matsushima, CC BY-SA Wikipedia

Zuigan-ji (G4.4) is located in the town of Matsushima. Due to its protected location in Matsushima Bay, the temple escaped severe damage during the 2011 Tōhoku tsunami.

Bell grillwork and Brackets, Zuigan-ji, Matsushima

Originally founded in 828 CE, it is one of the most important Zen temples in Japan.

Yōtoku-in Mausoleum, Zuigan-ji, Matsushima, CC BY-SA Wikipedia

It was rebuilt in 1609 by Date Masamune, the powerful daimyo of Sendai, using craftsmen from Kyoto. This mausoleum is the final resting place of Mego-hime, the wife of daimyo Masamune. The mausoleum is coated in black lacquer, creating a striking contrast with its gold fittings and polychrome-painted details. Does the paint job look too new to date back to 1609? The structure underwent a three-year restoration beginning in 2006, ensuring its historical beauty remains intact

Peacock Carving, Zuigan-ji, Matsushima

Its main hall and living quarters are designated National Treasures, featuring gilded sliding doors (fusuma) and intricate wood carvings. There were many tour groups.

Zuigan-ji Caves, Matsushima, CC BY-SA Wikipedia

Zuigan-ji also features several caves carved into the rock. These caves were used for memorial services and housed the ashes of the deceased. The caves were constructed in the Kamakura Period and remained in use until the Edo Period.

The couple who ran the hostel were friendly. The woman spoke English and Spanish. They gave us a room together without our asking. There was no problem ordering supper at 17:00 hrs. Keep this point in mind for later in this post.

They cooked a great meal just for the two of us. They even asked us what kind of protein we wanted, and we chose chicken. The tea was excellent. At night, we talked with other guests and a boy who works at YH. They served coffee/tea.

Otakamori

Otakamori View of Islands, Matsushima

Ōtakamori (G4.3) on Miyato Island is one of the 4 Famous Places to view Matsushima Bay, and a good place to catch the sunset over the island.

Miyato Island (G5.0) is connected to the mainland by a bridge. It was a short 13 minutes uphill. Here was a nice viewpoint of a bay of islands. The best rock and island formations are off the east coast of Miyato. Cruise ships circle the island only in the summer. The trail to Murohama is also supposed to be nice.

Furukawa

Tomohisa Sato, a sauna salesman, gave us a lift. He offered to drive us to our destination, Hiraizumi, which was further than his home. On the way north, he invited us to stay at his house. First, we drove to his office. His boss directed all his questions to me. Then we drove through Furukawa to the home that Tomohisa built.

Tomohisa & Shoko Sato at dinner, Furukawa

His wife, Shoko Sato, was very welcoming and tried to please. They were going to order a sushi meal, but we told her not to trouble herself. We had a great homemade supper. Kombu (kelp seaweed) was served as a dish of dry strips. Added to the soup, it turned into a slippery, sensuous mass. This was accompanied by delicious tofu with ginger shreds and wasabi on top (green, strong horseradish), takuwa yellow radish pickles (not too great), natto fermented soybeans (ugh), and breaded fish mixture (delish).

They showed us a beautiful book on Hokkaido. Because we liked it so much, they wanted to give it to us. Omotenashi, the Japanese concept of hospitality, involves anticipating and fulfilling the needs of guests. Offering a gift when someone admires an object is an extension of this hospitality. As we were only two weeks into our Japan trip, we did not know these customs. We refused such a generous gift. They gave us two bookmarks instead.

Wedding Kimonos

Corinne & George in Wedding Kimonos

Shoko makes kimonos. Traditional kimonos are silk and are made by hand. They brought out their wedding kimonos, coral (hers) and navy blue (his), which we tried on. They took a picture of us. Kimonos are very simple but so elegant. The male kimono is called a hakama. I formal cotton robes are called yakata.

Tomohisa & Shoko Sato House Shrine, Furukawa

We photographed the wooden shrine on the wall. They believe in a Japanese sect.

Corinne on Futon & Quilts, Furukawa

I photographed the quilt, futon, and tatami mats that we comfortably slept on in a typical Japanese bedroom.

Hiraizumi

Hiraizumi was the next major town further north. We used it as a base to see several attractions.

Motsu-Ji

Fee: JPY 700 (USD 4.80)
Hours: 08:30 to 17:00

Motsu-ji, Hiraizumi, CC BY-SA Wikipedia

There was nothing special about the temple at Mōtsū-ji (G4.2). It was not worth visiting, except that entry is free to those staying at the temple-run YH. The site was remarkable for its Pure Land Buddhist garden, which represents the Buddhist vision of paradise. Originally founded in 850 by Ennin, the temple flourished in the 12th century under the powerful and famous Fujiwara clan. This is the same powerful clan described in the Discover 3 Charming Hidden Gems in Crowded Kyoto post.

Mōtsū-ji once had 40 temple buildings and 500 priests. Though the structures were lost to fire, the garden remains perfectly preserved, showcasing a large pond, islands, peninsulas, and carefully arranged rocks that mimic a coastal landscape

Motsu-Ji YH

The bunk beds had nice, warm quilts, but the hostel was cold. Supper was cold, even the soup. Service was nonexistent. Breakfast wasn’t worth it: mainly lettuce, 1/4 tomato, a piece of fish, and rice.

Chuson-ji

Fee: JPY 1000 (USD 6.85)
Hours: 08:30 to 17:00
Hondo, Chuson-ji, Hiraizumi, CC BY-SA Wikipedia
We walked uphill between tall conifers to Chūson-ji (G4.4). The various halls were not too exciting.

Chuson-ji, Hiraizumi, CC BY-SA Wikipedia

Inside a modern building was the most incredible spot. Konjiki-dō is a stunning golden hall that stands as a masterpiece of Heian-period Buddhist art. Unfortunately, photography was not allowed, and we could only see from a distance behind glass walls. Completed in 1124, it is entirely covered in gold leaf, both inside and out, creating a breathtaking sight. It showcases exquisite craftsmanship, including mother-of-pearl inlays, lacquerware, and intricate wood carvings.

Stele, Chuson-ji, Hiraizumi

We found a small stele and rock piles.

Takkoku-No-Iwaya

Fee: JPY 500 (USD 3.43)
Hours: 08:00 to 17:00 Walk: 5 km from Motsu-ji

Takkoku-no-iwaya exterior, Hiraizumi

We walked from Motsu-Ji along a nice, quiet road through farmland. Takkoku-No-Iwaya (G4.3) did not offer much to see. However, it was a unique temple built against the rock face of a cliff, creating a dramatic and photogenic atmosphere.

Takkoku-no-iwaya interior, Hiraizumi

Established in 801 CE, Takkoku-No-Iwaya was dedicated to Bishamon to commemorate victories over the indigenous Emishi tribes. Bishamon is the Japanese name for Vaiśravaṇa (Sanskrit), a Hindu god.

Bishamon is the same god statue that we saw in the Nandaimon Gate, Nara. He is the god of war and punishes people who do evil things. Bishamon is usually shown wearing armour and holding a spear in one hand and a small pagoda in the other. The pagoda symbolizes the divine treasure house, which holds things he guards or gives away.

Geibikei Gorge

Fee: JPY 1800 (USD 12)
Hours: Apr-Nov 08:00 to 16:00

Geibikei Gorge is 8 km from Motsu-ji. We hitchhiked, and typically, the man (an engineer) went out of his way to bring us all the way there.

Geibikei Gorge entrance, Ichinoseki

Geibikei Gorge (G4.4) is a natural wonder, known for its serene river cutting through 50 to 120 metre-high limestone cliffs.
Boat Tour, Geibikei Gorge, Ichinoseki
The highlight is the traditional flat-bottomed boat tour.

Boat Tour, Geibikei Gorge, Ichinoseki

There were only Japanese tourists here. It was a chance to see how the snack-obsessed Japanese relax.

Boat Man, Geibikei Gorge, Ichinoseki

The return trip took 90 minutes. Boatman navigated the river using a pole while singing local folk songs.

Geibikei Gorge entrance, Ichinoseki

Geibikei is approximately two km long. Fanciful rock formations were created by erosion and numerous waterfalls. The name “Geibi”, which means “lion nose”, comes from a limestone formation near the end of the ravine, which resembles a lion’s snout.

Geibikei Gorge, Ichinoseki

At the turnaround point, you can try your luck by throwing “undama” (lucky stones) into a hole in the cliff. This is believed to bring good fortune

Boat Man, Geibikei Gorge, Ichinoseki

It was not a must-see, but it is loved by the Japanese (it has a fairly high Google Maps rating). For us, it was more of a cultural experience. However, this is a prime wisteria site in blossom season (mid-May).

Wanko Soba

Wanko soba (JPY 1300-2200) is a style of Japanese soba noodles that originated here in Iwate Prefecture (province). Wanko is a local dialect word meaning “bowl”, or more specifically, “small soup bowl”.

George eating wanko soba, Hiraizumi

We went to a restaurant on the left hand side of the road to the Hiraizumi station. It was a very nice experience, though, we wouldn’t order it again — very little protein, just two slices of sashimi. Instead of one plate of buckwheat noodles, we got a dozen lacquered bowls with small amounts of noodles. We dipped these one at a time into the sauce bowl. Then we added a small amount of shallots and other condiments. It was very tasty.

Tohoku Resources

Japan Tohoku Google Map, our custom Google itinerary

Other Places to See

You can find hidden gems in Tohoku. That does NOT mean there will be no visitors. Most tourists in Japan are domestic, and the Japanese are well aware of these “hidden gems”. Here are a few places to consider when you’re seeking a more tranquil experience.

Cherry Blossom Places

Similarly to temples, why do you have to go to the well-known cherry blossom places? There are several off-the-beaten-path spots where you can enjoy quiet cherry blossom viewing amid traditional backdrops:

Tsuruga Castle, Fukushima, is known for 1,000 Somei Yoshino (cultivar) cherry blossom trees and nighttime illuminations.

Kakunodate is the samurai district in Akita, featuring streets and courtyards shaded by cherry blossom trees.

Wisteria Blossom Places

You can see wisteria from mid-May to early June, depending on location. This is outside the over-touristed Cherry Blossom and holiday season, which is April in Central Honshu.

Geibikei Gorge

Blooming Period: Late May to early June

Tonose Fuji no Sato is located just south of Hirosaki. You need a car to get to this remote wisteria garden. You will be rewarded by a tapestry of differently colored wisteria trees growing next to rows of flooded rice paddies.

Blooming Period: Around mid-May

Hours: 9:00 – 16:30 during blossom season only!

Cost: JPY 1000

Sendai Weather

[strong][strong]Sendai [/strong]Best Time[/strong]

May, June, September, and October have the best high temperatures of 20 °C (67.6°F). July to September are the rainiest months. August is the hottest month, with an average high of 28°C (82.4°F).

Sendai Getting Around

Sendai is a city of 1.1 million people. Matsushima has 12,436 people. Hiraizumi is a small town of 6500 people.

Get the Rome2Rio app if you are travelling by bus or train. Generally, it is much faster to travel by train. These are the train fares and times.

If you are not renting a car but plan to see multiple, distant areas, then consider a multi-city airfare.

Final Comments

George eating wanko soba, Hiraizumi

We hope this post will encourage you to visit the intriguing Tohoku and escape the over-tourism of central Honshu island.

Surprising Fact for Today

Usually, making noise is frowned upon in Japan. But slurping noodles loudly is considered polite and shows appreciation for the meal. I don’t think I did that when I ate the soba! For more surprising facts, read Unlock Japan: Insider Tips & FAQs.

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Why Nara Should Be on Your Japan Bucket List

Why Kanazawa Should Be on Your Japan Bucket List

Embracing ‘Kayama Country’

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Explore Hidden Gems in the Japanese Alps

Tohoku Hidden Gems: From Miyako to Aomori

Hokkaido: Northeast Into Nature’s Wonderland

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Guide to Japanese Culture

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Google Maps Ratings

Google Maps provides a rating from 0 to 5 for all sights, hotels, and restaurants (but not cities). All our recommendations are appended with the rating (prefixed with a G) from Google Maps. Google Ratings are based on feedback from locals as well as tourists. They are much more reliable than travel booking websites or tourist anecdotes.

We consider a score of 4 to 4.39 to be Very Good and 4.4 to 5 to be Excellent. Yet, in Japan, many must-see sights are rated by the Japanese as 4.2. Based on this, we would consider the range of 4.2 to 5 to be Excellent.

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Asia Encounters

2025-04-01 13:12:21

Why Nara Should Be on Your Japan Bucket List

Nara – A Japanese History Gem

Nara is one of Japan’s gems, often overlooked by tourists but full of unique charm. You should read this article because you will get a more authentic experience in Nara than in Tokyo or Osaka.

Despite all the must-see World Heritage Sites, the majority of tourists come to feed the bowing deer in Nara Park. What is unique about Nara is that most of your sightseeing will be in 7.75 sq km (3 sq mi) of parkland. It is a compact and walkable city, but you will walk in a forest. Unlike Japan’s big, modern cities, Nara offers a more peaceful, laid-back experience.

Author & Photographer: George Mitchell

George’s Bio

Our advice is not influenced by affiliate links — we have none. Our itineraries, photos, and advice come from three years of travelling around the world, including three months in Japan. We are avid hikers, nature lovers, and photographers. We are students of art and architecture, culture and cuisine.

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All the sights in this itinerary can be found on our custom Japan Nara Google Map. I have described the sites in itinerary (geographic) order. The points of interest are appended with their Google Maps Ratings, which range from G0 to G5.

Japanese Names

Name suffixes show the type of building. So “ji”, “dera” or “tera” is a generic Buddhist temple. The suffix “in” is a Buddhist temple in a garden, especially a Zen temple. For more useful information, see the Guide to the Japanese Language.

Generally, I write the names of sights in Japanese (Romaji) because asking for directions with English names will be futile. Writing Kōmyō-ji Temple is redundant, but sometimes I add “temple” for those readers who missed this section.

Nara Period

The Nara Period (710-794 CE) corresponds to when Nara was the first permanent capital of Japan. Nara was modelled on Chang’an, the capital of China during the Tang Dynasty (618–907). Chang’an was located near the current-day Xi’an. The Japanese upper classes patterned themselves after Chinese governance and culture. Administrative reforms and a legal code based on Chinese models were implemented.

Historically, Nara is special as it was the first permanent capital of Japan – the cradle of modern Japan. Nara is home to the oldest wooden buildings in the world – 1,270 to 1400 years old. They are also the world’s largest wooden structures.

Shanshui

Taoist Temple in the Mountains, Chinese Landscape Painting, Taipei

The Nara Period saw the adoption of Kanji (Chinese script), Confucianism, Buddhism, and Chinese art and architecture. The Chinese invented shanshui or landscape painting in the 5th century. Shanshui (literally mountains and water) is rooted in Taoist and Confucian ideals, emphasizing harmony between humans and nature. Shanshui has deeply influenced art, philosophy, and garden design in China and Japan.

Balance and Harmony are achieved through yin (female) and yang (male) principles. Yin includes softness, adaptability, and water — which symbolize flow and change. Yang includes rocks and mountains — which symbolize strength, stability and permanence.

Layered Perspectives are achieved through overlapping elements — rock formations, water features, plants, and pavilions. This creates depth and dynamic views as one moves through the space. Pathways should never be straight. Pathways lead to new focal points.

Do you get templed out? We recommend that you learn more about what you are seeing. Go beyond the wide-angle Instagram shot and look at the details.

Smallpox Epidemic

Increased trade with China and Korea led to the 735–737 CE smallpox epidemic. It killed approximately one-third of the entire Japanese population! The epidemic had significant social and economic repercussions throughout Japan.

Kōfuku-ji Temple

Sarusawa Ike

Distance: 1 km, 16 min walk E of Nara Station

Five-Story Pagoda and Sarusawa-ike, Kofuku-ji , Nara

Sarusawa Ike (G4.4) was not as extraordinary as the Japanese make out. Perhaps they are thinking of cherry blossoms in the spring. The Ike (pond) is charming for the views of the Kōfuku-ji Gojūnotō (G4.4) or five-storey pagoda. Go means five. The willow trees and reflections in the pond make it a photogenic and peaceful retreat. We ate lunch there.

According to legend, a court maid named Uneme drowned herself in the pond after falling out of favour with the emperor. The nearby Uneme Shrine is dedicated to her spirit. The Uneme Festival (September) features dragon boats, traditional music, and floating lanterns, creating a magical atmosphere.

Kofuku-ji

Fee: JPY 700 (USD 4.70)
Hours: 9:00–17:00
Distance: 2 km, 22 min walk E of Nara Station

Tō-kondō & Gojū-no-tō, Kōfuku-ji, Nara © CC BY-SA Wikimedia

Kōfuku-ji (G4.4) was originally the family temple of the powerful Fujiwara clan. The Fujiwara was one of Japan’s most influential aristocratic families during the Nara and Heian (Kyoto) periods. It is part of the Nara UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Five-Storey Pagoda

https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=10128831" title="Gojū-no-tō, Kōfuku-ji, Nara, Japan By 663highland Own work, CC BY 2.5, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=10128831" class="has-alt-description">Gojū-no-tō, Kōfuku-ji, Nara © CC-BY-SA Wikimedia

The Five-Storey Pagoda, rebuilt in 1426, is Japan’s second-tallest wooden pagoda and an icon of Nara. Unless you have a wide-angle lens, the pagoda is best photographed from the pond.

https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=6870928" title="Tō-kondō, Kōfuku-ji, Nara, Japan By 663highland Own work, CC BY 2.5, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=6870928" class="has-alt-description">Tō-kondō, Kōfuku-ji, Nara © CC-BY-SA Wikimedia

The temple complex includes the Chu-kondō (Central Golden Hall G4.2) and Tō-kondō (Eastern Golden Hall G4.4), showcasing the artistry of ancient Japanese architecture.

Kokuho-kan

Kokuho-kan (National Treasure Hall G4.5) is a must-see. It contained the most superb carving we have seen in Japan. The temple houses many National Treasures, including the famous Asura statue, a masterpiece of Nara-period Buddhist sculpture. We spent 30 minutes looking at a very small museum. We found an excellent booklet in English sold at the exit and went around again for 30 minutes.

Ara-Ike and Sagi Ike

Distance: Nara Station–Sagi Pond 2 km 32 min

We walked east to two ike (ponds): Ara-Ike (G4.1) and Sagi Ike (G4.4). Here, we saw a mid-pond pavilion linked by a bridge. People were row-boating on the pond.

Leaf Shadows on Bamboo, Tea House, Sagi-ike, Nara

We were attracted to one of the teahouses with a bamboo grove lining the garden. It was a rare chance to photograph bamboo trees that actually had some sunlight on their trunks. There were different shades of green with leaf shadows on the bark.

Ikebana at Teahouse, Sagi Ike, Nara

We noticed some flower arrangements. An attendant said we could not go in. But two women who spoke English well said it was okay. I assume this was because of our genuine interest in the ikebana.

Tea Ceremony

Tea Ceremony, Urasenke Chado Centre, Kyoto

A tea ceremony (chado) was being held for the 55th anniversary of their ikebana school. An attendant said we could join the tea ceremony! We went in and had the delicious green tea (matcha). Fortunately, we had learned a bit about tea ceremonies at the Urasenke Chado Research Centre in Kyoto.

The act of preparing and serving tea is a meditative ritual, refined by Zen Buddhists. Every movement is deliberate and precise. We noticed the flowers in the background, which were used to create a connection with nature. The ceremony often involves a shared appreciation of tea’s flavor, fragrance, and aesthetic presentation.

Genmaicha Tea

Genmaicha or Popcorn Tea

Genmaicha is made from matcha (green tea) mixed with roasted brown rice. Some of the rice grains pop during the roasting process. This gives it a popcorn-like appearance, earning it the nickname popcorn tea. We loved its mild nutty flavour more than matcha. It is available here for ≥ CAD 20 (USD 14) for 300g.

Genmaicha is written in kanji as 玄米茶. The symbol 玄 (Gen) means dark or mysterious, 米 (Mai) means rice, and 茶 (Cha) means tea. The character 茶 is pronounced Cha in Mandarin and Cantonese. It is the origin of the word chai in Hindi and Russian. The character 茶 is pronounced Te in Fujianese and Taiwanese. It is the origin of the word thee in Dutch and tea in English.

We left the tea house along a heavily treed forest path. It was quiet, even on a Sunday. Then we found deer!

Tōdai-ji Temple

Fee: JPY 800 (USD 5.35)
Hours: Apr-Oct 7:30–17:30; Nov-Mar 8:00–17:00
Distance: 840 m, 11 min N of Sagi Pond; 2 km, 32 min walk E of Nara Station
https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=6068122" title="Tō-kondō & Gojū-no-tō, Kōfuku-ji, Nara, Japan By Wiiii - Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=6068122" class="has-alt-description">Tō-kondō & Gojū-no-tō, Kōfuku-ji, Nara © CC BY-SA Wikimedia
Emperor Shōmu felt personally responsible for the 735–737 CE smallpox tragedy. This was based on a concept rooted in Confucian thought. As a ruler, he saw himself as a moral and spiritual guide for his people. The loss of one-third of the population was a calamity. It was perceived as a reflection of his failure to maintain harmony and virtue in the realm.

He commissioned the construction of Tōdai-ji and its Daibutsu (Great Buddha) statue as a symbol of unity and peace. Completed in 752 CE, Tōdai-ji served as the head temple for all provincial Buddhist temples in Japan. It is part of the Nara World Heritage Site.

Nandaimon Gate

Nandaimon Gate, Todai-ji, Nara

The imposing Nandaimon Gate (G4.5), the entrance to Todai-ji, was completed in 1199. The Great (dai) South (nan) Gate (mon) was originally red lacquered wood that has now faded. The 25 m (82 ft) tall structure shows incredible Japanese engineering and craftsmanship.

The pillars are 19 m (65 ft) high. In the 8th century, they did not have big forestry trucks to transport huge logs. These huge trees had to be transported by sea from the north of Japan. At the nearest port, they used 120 oxen to pull these logs to Nara. Putting it into perspective, you realize just how incredible a feat it was to build such monumental buildings.

Nio

Vaisravana Guardian of the North Statue, Nandaimon, Todai-ji, Nara

The gate marks the transition into a sacred space guarded by two colossal statues of Nio Heavenly Kings. These fierce guardians are the Deva Kings that originated from India. The over 8 m tall statues were sculpted in the 13th century by master artists Unkei and Kaikei.

Vaiśravaṇa (Sanskrit for “Great Fame”) is the name of the chief of the Four Heavenly Kings. Bishamon (the Japanese name for Vaiśravaṇa) is the god of war and punishes people who do evil things. Bishamon is shown wearing armour and holding a spear in one hand and a small pagoda in the other. The pagoda symbolizes the divine treasure house, which holds things he guards or gives away.

When the Japanese adopted Buddhism, they also accepted all the symbolism, mythology, and literature that came with it. The Buddhists reinterpreted the animistic spirits or gods as protectors of the Buddha. They make sure that evil spirits don’t go through the gates and into their temple.

Daibutsuden

Distance: 1 km 18 min N of Sagi Pond

Daibutsuden, Todai-ji, Nara

The imposing Daibutsuden (G4.6), or Great (dai) Buddha (butsu) Hall (den), is the largest wooden structure in the world. The great fire of 1180 destroyed much of the temple complex, including the original Daibutsuden. The current structure is actually 30% smaller than the original 8th-century building.

The Daibutsuden is also known as the Kon-dō, a generic term for the main hall of a Buddhist temple. The Daibutsuden is a masterpiece of traditional Japanese architecture. They did not use nails or cement. It features a complex system of wooden frames, brackets, and joinery that allows the structure to withstand earthquakes.

Daibutsu

https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=203057" title="Daibutsu Statue, Tōdai-ji, Nara, Japan Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=203057" class="has-alt-description">Daibutsu Statue, Tōdai-ji, Nara © Public Domain Wikimedia

The Daibutsu is one of the largest bronze Buddha statues in the world, standing about 15 m (49 ft) tall. The creation of this masterpiece was a monumental undertaking. It required the efforts of 2,600 artisans and the use of cutting-edge bronze casting techniques. The statue was cast in 743 CE using a complex process that involved pouring molten bronze into a clay mold.

This statue depicts Vairocana, the ultimate truth or cosmic body of the Buddha. Vairocana is considered the source of enlightenment and the embodiment of wisdom and purity.

The lotus petals on the base of the Great Buddha are intricately engraved with beautiful and symbolic designs. The lotus is a symbol of purity and spiritual awakening in Buddhist philosophy. It rises above muddy waters to bloom in pristine beauty.

Karahafu

Lantern and Karahafu Gable, Todai-ji, Nara

The building features an undulating gable, known as karahafu, which is a distinctively Japanese architectural form. The flowing, wave-like form adds elegance and grandeur. It makes a statement piece that this is a sacred space.

Octagonal Lantern

Dating back to the 8th century, it is one of the oldest National Treasures of Tōdai-ji. The octagonal-shaped lantern has intricate, diamond-shaped grilles on its panels. It rests on a stone base supported by a lotus-shaped pedestal. The lantern’s design and placement reflect Buddhist principles, symbolizing the light of wisdom dispelling the darkness of ignorance.

Bodhisattva Lantern, Todai-ji, Nara

Four panels are ornamented with celestial musicians in lithe poses. The figures seem to float on a cloud. The serpentinata (S-shaped curves) of the scarves imply movement in the wind.

Sangatsudo

A flight of stairs leads to a stage on piles. We enjoyed a sunset with the five-storey pagoda and a good view of the Nara Valley. We had a quiet walk back at night with the paths lit up by many bronze lanterns.

Nigatsu-dō

Nigatsu-dō Lit up, Tōdai-ji, Nara

Nigatsu-dō (G4.6), or the Hall of the Second (ni) Month (gatsu), was originally constructed in 752 CE. It is closely linked to the monk Jitchū, who introduced the Shuni-e (Second Month Ceremony) in 760 CE. This annual Buddhist repentance ritual has been performed without interruption for over 1,250 years. The hall is supported by wooden columns on a slope, creating a dramatic and elegant appearance. The current building was reconstructed in 1669 after a fire.

Nara Park

Fees: Free; shika senbei crackers JPY 150 (USD 1.00)
Hours: 24 hours
Distance: 559 m 7 min S of Sangatsudo; 3 km 35 mins walk E of Nara Station
Bus Fare: JPY 220 from Kencho-higashi (Omiya-dori and Hwy 169)

Nara-koen or Nara Park (G4.5) is home to over 1,200 wild sika deer, which are considered sacred in Japanese culture. According to Shinto beliefs, these deer are messengers of the gods. The legend originates from Kasuga Taisha Shrine, where a deity is said to have arrived riding a white deer. Since then, the deer have been protected and revered. The free-roaming deer symbolize the harmony between humans and nature, embodying the city’s serene atmosphere.

https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=61964726" title="Sika Deer, Nara Park, Nara Japan By Dariusz Jemielniak ("Pundit") - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=61964726" class="has-alt-description">Sika Deer, Nara Park, Nara CC-BY-SA Wikipedia

We were really shocked when we came here before the cell phone and the information era. We did not really know what to expect. A Japanese man was talking to the deer. He was trying to get the deer to do something. Then he offered food, and the deer bowed its head! We said this could only happen in Japan.

Today, the majority of tourists come to meet the deer, who are known for bowing politely when given a cracker. Stalls sell special rice bran “Shika Senbei” treats, which are safe for the deer to eat.

Kasuga Shrine

Fees: Free; inner shrine JPY 500 (USD 3.35); museum JPY 500 (USD 3.35);
Manyo Botanical Garden JPY 500 (USD 3.35)
Hours: Mar-Oct 6:30–17:30; Nov-Feb 7:00–17:00
Distance: 1 km 21 min S of Sangatsudo via Nara Park;
2 km 41 mins walk E of Nara Station

Kasuga Shrine or Kasuga-taisha (G4.5) is a renowned Shinto shrine established in 768 CE. It was closely linked to the powerful Fujiwara clan. This Shinto shrine is a serene and picturesque spot.

https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=33804012" title="Corridors, Kasuga-taisha, Nara, Japan By Dariusz Jemielniak - Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=33804012" class="has-alt-description">Corridors, Kasuga-taisha, Nara © CC-BY-SA Wikipedia

The shrine’s vibrant vermilion buildings and architectural style are visually striking and culturally significant. Dedicated to deities that protect the city, the shrine has been a place of worship since ancient times.

Great Fortune, Kasuga-taisha, Nara

Inside, Japanese people were throwing money into the donation box to get their fortune told. We shook the bronze cylinder til a numbered rod came out. Then we received our fortunes in English. This is a partial view of the fortune slip. These practices are deeply rooted in Shinto beliefs, offering guidance and blessings to those seeking insight into their lives.

Kasuga Lanterns

Lantern Lane, Kasuga Shrine, Nara
The shrine is famous for its 3,000 stone and bronze lanterns. They are illuminated during the Lantern Festival, creating a magical atmosphere. At the rear of the main hall, we found a long line of bronze lanterns to photograph. A stream ran below them.

https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=6069545" title="Stone Lanterns, Keishoden, Kasuga-taisha, Nara, Japan By 663highland - Own work, CC BY 2.5, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=6069545" class="has-alt-description">Stone Lanterns, Keishoden, Kasuga-taisha, Nara © CC-BY-SA Wikipedia

The path was overly decorated with stone lanterns. They were all basically similar, though some had a white sheet with wishes on it.

Ginkgo Trees

https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=9488972" title="Ginkgo Leaves By Joe Schneid, Louisville, Kentucky - Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=9488972" class="has-alt-description">Ginkgo Leaves CC-BY-SA Wikipedia

We saw beautiful golden ginkgo (ishi) trees. The origin of ginkgo trees can be traced back to China. These “living fossils” have existed for over 200 million years! Another deer bowed to a man feeding it!!!

https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=74329791" title="Ichi-no Torii, Kasuga-taisha, Nara, Japan By NNDDD - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=74329791" class="has-alt-description">Ichi-no Torii, Kasuga-taisha, Nara © CC-BY-SA Wikipedia

Surrounding the shrine is the ancient Kasugayama Primeval Forest, untouched for over 1,000 years.

Shrine Maiden on Path, Kasuga Shrine, Nara

The miko (Shinto shrine maidens) play an important ceremonial role. They are dressed in traditional attire, including red hakama (pleated skirts), symbolizing purity and their connection to the divine.

Hōryū-ji Temple

Fee: JPY 2000 (USD 13.40)
Hours: Feb 22-Nov 03 8:00–17:00; else 16:30
Road: 14 km, 37 min drive SE of Nara Station
Train: 16 mins every 20 mins
plus 1.9 km, 23 min walk N of Hōryū-ji Station
Website: Hōryūji: A Brief History

Sweepers, Horyu-ji, Nara

Hōryū-ji Temple (G4.5) was founded by Prince Shotoku in 607 CE and damaged by fire in 670 CE. Hōryū-ji remains one of the oldest surviving wooden structures in the world. Its design reflects a blend of Chinese Buddhist architectural styles adapted to Japanese culture.

It was intended as a centre of academic and cultural activities. The temple played a pivotal role in spreading Buddhism in Japan. The complex covers an area of 25 acres.

Kondo

https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=1299464" title="Kondo and Gojūnotō, Hōryū-ji, Nara, Japan By 663highland - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=1299464" class="has-alt-description">Kondo and Gojūnotō, Hōryū-ji, Nara © CC BY-SA Wikimedia

The West Wing consists of Gojunoto (G4.6), or the Five-storied Pagoda and the Kondo (G4.6) or Golden Hall. Hōryū-ji is the one site that is far from the city centre. It is a 14 km drive or train ride away. There were incredibly few people so early in the morning. It was very quiet until, suddenly at 11:00 hrs., armies of tour groups invaded!

Onigawara Tiles

Onigawara Roof Tiles, Kondo, Hōryū-ji, Nara

The most impressive sights were small details that you need to look for. These buildings had unusually fine decorative elements. At the top of the eaves, look for these roundels and demon-like figures.

The demon-like figures are called Onigawara or “demon tiles”. These ornamental roof tiles are commonly found on Japanese temples and shrines. They often depict the face of an oni, a demon or ogre from Japanese folklore. These features serve aesthetic, spiritual and practical purposes.

• The demon tiles are believed to ward off evil spirits and misfortune, acting as protective talismans for the building.
• The Onigawara and roundels help prevent rainwater from entering the structure by sealing the roof edges.

Onigawara and Floral Roundels, Kondo, Hōryū-ji, Nara

The floral roundels on Japanese roofs are typically decorative motifs representing nature or spiritual protection. Interestingly, their origin dates back to the 6th century, when roof tiles were introduced to Japan along with Buddhism. Over time, the designs evolved from floral patterns to the more fearsome faces we see today.

The more you understand something, the more you can appreciate what you are seeing. Now you know these tiles and figures are not just decoration. They are guardians of the temple.

Dragon on Column, Kondo, Hōryū-ji, Nara

The dragons on the Kondo’s columns were very scary. Dragons represent protection and power. They guard sacred spaces and ward off evil spirits. These intricate designs reflect the fusion of Buddhist symbolism and Japanese craftsmanship.

Daihōzō-den

Calligraphy, Nara

The Daihōzō-den (G4.4), or the Great Treasure Hall, is a museum within the Hōryū-ji temple complex. It preserves many National Treasures, including ancient Buddhist statues, paintings, and ceremonial objects.

Even though we left it for the end, there were still hordes of student groups going through. Incredibly, they just shuffled ahead, not paying any attention to the art objects. They were more interested in saying hello to us in an attention-getting way. It was not enjoyable! There were several interesting items with English labels. Photography was not allowed.

Yumedono

https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=36664317" title="Yumedono, Hōryū-ji, Nara, Japan © By Nekosuki - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=36664317" class="has-alt-description">Yumedono, Hōryū-ji, Nara © CC-BY-SA Wikimedia

The Yumedono (G4.4) or Hall of Dreams is closely linked to Prince Shōtoku, who sponsored the adoption of Buddhism by Japan. Unlike most temple buildings, the Yumedono has an octagonal shape, symbolizing harmony and balance. Yumedono holds a secret Buddha statue, the Yumedono Kannon, which is only displayed to the public at specific times. Kannon is the Bodhisattva of Compassion.

Chugu-ji

Fee: JPY 600 (USD 4.00)
Hours: Mar 21-Sep 30 9:00–16:30; else closes 16:00
Road: 14 km, 37 min drive SE of Nara Station
Train: 16 mins every 20 mins
+ 1.8 km 21 mins walk N of Hōryū-ji Station

https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=4659431" title="Miroku Bosatsu Statue, Chugu-ji, Nara, Japan By Ogawa Seiyō Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=4659431" class="has-alt-description">Miroku Bosatsu Statue, Chugu-ji Public Domain Wikimedia

Chūgū-ji (G4.3) is a fascinating Buddhist temple located a short distance from Hōryū-ji. It was originally established as a nunnery in the 7th century by Prince Shōtoku. The temple served as a training ground for imperial princesses and aristocratic women.

The temple houses the famous Miroku Bosatsu (Maitreya Bodhisattva) statue, a National Treasure of Japan. This wooden statue is renowned for its serene expression, often referred to as the “archaic smile”. It reminds me of The Thinkersculpture by Rodin.

Tenjukoku Mandela Tapestry, Chugu-ji, Nara

Another masterpiece is the Tenjukoku Shūchō Mandala. This oldest embroidery in Japan symbolizes the Buddhist concept of paradise and is a significant cultural artifact.

A bit of a ripoff in that we paid to see only two things. But they both were beautiful. I took a photo of the embroidery without flash before an attendant told us no photos were allowed. There was no sign.

Other Places to See

Other places you can visit include:

Mother and Baby, Nara

Naramachi — Stroll through charming streets filled with traditional houses, shops, and cafes. A historic district with traditional merchant houses, perfect for a leisurely stroll and some shopping.

Isuien Garden (G4.5) is a beautiful Japanese garden offering a peaceful retreat and stunning views.
Open: 09:30 – 16:30 closed Tues; Fee: JPY 1200 (USD 8.00)

Wakakusayama (G4.5) – Enjoy a short hike to Mount Wakakusa, which offers panoramic views of the city.
Open: Mar-Dec 09:00 – 17:00; Fee: JPY 150 (USD 1.00)

Nara Cherry Blossom Places

https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=3870045" title="Cherry Blossoms, Yoshinoyama, Japan By Tawashi2006 - Own work, CC BY 2.1 jp, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=3870045" class="has-alt-description">Cherry Blossoms, Yoshinoyama, CC-BY-SA Wikimedia

Yoshinoyama (mountain) is one of Japan’s most famous sakura spots. It is located 41 km, 37 minutes by car, south of Nara Station. It is 2:15 hrs. by trains (three lines) plus a 9 min walk. Fare: JPY 852 – 904 (USD 5.70 – 6.05)

Yoshinoyama is renowned for its extended sakura season, with around 30,000 cherry trees spread across four distinct altitudes:

Shimo Senbon, the Lower 1,000 Trees (G4.4), is located at the base of the mountain. This is the only area accessible by train.

Naka Senbon, the Middle 1,000 Trees (G4.3), includes Yoshino’s town center, with temples, shrines, and accommodations. It is a popular spot for hanami picnics under the blossoms.

Kami Senbon, the Upper 1,000 Trees (G4.4), is higher up and offers more secluded views and fewer crowds.

Oku Senbon, the Inner 1,000 Trees, is at the top of the mountain and blooms later than the other areas.

Kawaji Cherry Trees (G4.5) is a 1 km, 16 min, walk north of Nara Station. The Sahogawa riverbank is lined with cherry trees offering a peaceful and picturesque setting for a stroll.

Koriyama Castle Ruins (G4.0) is 7 km south of Nara Station and 6 mins by train plus a 21-min walk. The castle’s walls and moat provide a beautiful backdrop for cherry blossoms, making it a unique hanami location.

Heijo Palace Site (G4.5) is a 5 km, 13 min. drive or 39 mins. bus ride and walk west of Nara Station. It is dotted with cherry trees, perfect for a leisurely walk.

Nara Food

Kaki (Persimmon) Drying, Nara

To save money during our three-year round-the-world trip, we rarely ate at expensive restaurants. We often shopped for ready-to-eat food at supermarkets and the food sections of department stores. Some items are marked on sale at the end of the day. Another choice is the 7-11 stores.

Prices are somewhat higher for imported foods. As the saying goes, “When in Japan, eat as the Japanese do”. But we did get lunch at Pizza Hut after we discovered that they have unique seafood pizzas.
Restaurant Menu, Nara
Many Japanese restaurants still display plastic food models, known as sampuru, in their front windows. These realistic replicas showcase the dishes offered on the menu, making it easier for customers to visualize the options. Sampuru is not only practical but also an art form, with skilled artisans crafting each model to look incredibly lifelike.

This tradition is especially helpful for tourists who may not read Japanese. You can simply point to the dish that you want. Another strategy is to walk around the restaurant and see what the Japanese are ordering. Then point to the most coon dish they ordered. We also had a small book, Eating Cheap in Japan, that highlighted Japanese dishes to try.

Nara Weather

Season – Months	Temp °C	Temp °F
Spring: April–May	22.5°	72.5°
Summer: June–August	30.3°	86.6°
Fall: September–November	22.3°	72.2°

Nara Best Time

April is the peak spring month due to the cherry blossoms. November is the peak autumn month due to the autumn leaves. June is the rainy season. August is the hottest month with an average high of 33°C.

Season	Months	Thousands of Visits
Winter	December – March	150 – 220
Spring	April – May	270 – 300
Summer	June – August	180 – 200
Fall	September – November	250 – 280

Nara Overtourism

Kon-dō, Tōdai-ji, Nara © CC BY-SA Wikimedia

Kyoto is the epitome of over-tourism, with 50 million tourists per year! Nara is much less crowded, with about 9 million visitors per year. That is still twice as many visitors as go to Banff or Yosemite National Parks. Moreover, 80-90% are domestic tourists.

The city’s iconic deer in Nara Park is a major attraction for tourists. This has led to incidents involving tourists getting too close to or taunting the deer, resulting in injuries.

While overtourism isn’t as severe, it’s still busy during peak travel periods. In particular, most tourists come for the cherry blossoms in April and the autumn leaves in November.

But the city has one problem: getting tourists to sleep over in Nara. The majority of tourists day-trip to Nara. We stayed in Nara for three nights, and it was well worth it. We enjoyed the more relaxed and immersive experience. Definitely visit Nara if you love temples, history, and nature.

Nara Getting Around

Nara is a small city of only 367,400 people. You can walk to most places except Hōryū-ji. Nara is a good base to see Kyoto and Uji.

Route by Auto	Distance by Road	Time by Road
Nara – Osaka	34 km	0:27 hrs
Nara – Kyoto	42 km	0:36 hrs
Nara – Uji	30 km	0:24 hrs

Get the Rome2Rio app if you are travelling by bus or train. Generally, it is much faster to travel by train. These are the train fares and times. It is only 36 minutes and $4 from Kyoto by train. It is 42 km by car.

Route by Train or Bus	Fare JPY	Fare USD	Time
Nara – Osaka	JPY 530 – 570	USD 3.55 – 3.82	0:34 hrs
Nara– Kyoto	JPY 590 – 630	USD 3.95 – 4.22	0:38 hrs
Nara – Uji	JPY 490 – 530	USD 3.28 – 3.55	0:36 hrs

Nara Resources

Eating Cheap in Japan, book by Kimiko Nagasawa and Camy Condon

Japan Nara Google Map, our custom Google My Maps itinerary

Nara Tourist Map, PDF download

Nara Sightseeing Map, PDF download

Final Comments

We hope this post will encourage you to visit intriguing Nara. We came mainly to see the Tōdai-ji Temple. We stayed for a few days to enjoy the relaxing and historic atmosphere.

You do not need to spend time only in “famous” or modern places to see Japan.

Surprising Fact for Today

Five-Story Pagoda, Horyu-ji, Nara

The Pagoda was derived from the circular burial mound, or stupa, where the Buddha was buried. For more surprising facts, read Unlock Japan: Insider Tips & FAQs. For more information on the origin of pagodas, read these posts:

Surprising Connections Between Nepal and Japan

From Past to Pagoda: Exploring Chinese Gems

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Google Maps Ratings

Google Maps provides a rating from 0 to 5 for all sights, hotels, and restaurants (but not cities). All our recommendations are appended with the rating (prefixed with a G) from Google Maps. Google Ratings are based on feedback from locals as well as tourists. They are much more reliable than travel booking websites or tourist anecdotes.

We consider a score of 4 to 4.39 to be Very Good and 4.4 to 5 to be Excellent. Yet, in Japan, many must-see sights are rated by the Japanese as 4.2. Based on this, we would consider the range of 4.2 to 5 to be Excellent.

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except where noted CC BY-SA (Creative Commons Wikipedia)
Japan Encounters is a subsidiary of Terra Encounters

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