Why Nara Should Be on Your Japan Bucket List
Nara – A Japanese History Gem
Nara is one of Japan’s gems, often overlooked by tourists but full of unique charm. You should read this article because you will get a more authentic experience in Nara than in Tokyo or Osaka.
Despite all the must-see World Heritage Sites, the majority of tourists come to feed the bowing deer in Nara Park. What is unique about Nara is that most of your sightseeing will be in 7.75 sq km (3 sq mi) of parkland. It is a compact and walkable city, but you will walk in a forest. Unlike Japan’s big, modern cities, Nara offers a more peaceful, laid-back experience.
Author & Photographer: George Mitchell
Our advice is not influenced by affiliate links — we have none. Our itineraries, photos, and advice come from three years of travelling around the world, including three months in Japan. We are avid hikers, nature lovers, and photographers. We are students of art and architecture, culture and cuisine.
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All the sights in this itinerary can be found on our custom Japan Nara Google Map. I have described the sites in itinerary (geographic) order. The points of interest are appended with their Google Maps Ratings, which range from G0 to G5.
Japanese Names
Name suffixes show the type of building. So “ji”, “dera” or “tera” is a generic Buddhist temple. The suffix “in” is a Buddhist temple in a garden, especially a Zen temple. For more useful information, see the Guide to the Japanese Language.
Generally, I write the names of sights in Japanese (Romaji) because asking for directions with English names will be futile. Writing Kōmyō-ji Temple is redundant, but sometimes I add “temple” for those readers who missed this section.
Nara Period
The Nara Period (710-794 CE) corresponds to when Nara was the first permanent capital of Japan. Nara was modelled on Chang’an, the capital of China during the Tang Dynasty (618–907). Chang’an was located near the current-day Xi’an. The Japanese upper classes patterned themselves after Chinese governance and culture. Administrative reforms and a legal code based on Chinese models were implemented.
Historically, Nara is special as it was the first permanent capital of Japan – the cradle of modern Japan. Nara is home to the oldest wooden buildings in the world – 1,270 to 1400 years old. They are also the world’s largest wooden structures.
Shanshui
The Nara Period saw the adoption of Kanji (Chinese script), Confucianism, Buddhism, and Chinese art and architecture. The Chinese invented shanshui or landscape painting in the 5th century. Shanshui (literally mountains and water) is rooted in Taoist and Confucian ideals, emphasizing harmony between humans and nature. Shanshui has deeply influenced art, philosophy, and garden design in China and Japan.
Balance and Harmony are achieved through yin (female) and yang (male) principles. Yin includes softness, adaptability, and water — which symbolize flow and change. Yang includes rocks and mountains — which symbolize strength, stability and permanence.
Layered Perspectives are achieved through overlapping elements — rock formations, water features, plants, and pavilions. This creates depth and dynamic views as one moves through the space. Pathways should never be straight. Pathways lead to new focal points.
Do you get templed out? We recommend that you learn more about what you are seeing. Go beyond the wide-angle Instagram shot and look at the details.
Smallpox Epidemic
Increased trade with China and Korea led to the 735–737 CE smallpox epidemic. It killed approximately one-third of the entire Japanese population! The epidemic had significant social and economic repercussions throughout Japan.
Kōfuku-ji Temple
Sarusawa Ike
Distance: 1 km, 16 min walk E of Nara Station
Sarusawa Ike (G4.4) was not as extraordinary as the Japanese make out. Perhaps they are thinking of cherry blossoms in the spring. The Ike (pond) is charming for the views of the Kōfuku-ji Gojūnotō (G4.4) or five-storey pagoda. Go means five. The willow trees and reflections in the pond make it a photogenic and peaceful retreat. We ate lunch there.
According to legend, a court maid named Uneme drowned herself in the pond after falling out of favour with the emperor. The nearby Uneme Shrine is dedicated to her spirit. The Uneme Festival (September) features dragon boats, traditional music, and floating lanterns, creating a magical atmosphere.
Kofuku-ji
Fee: JPY 700 (USD 4.70)
Hours: 9:00–17:00
Distance: 2 km, 22 min walk E of Nara Station
Kōfuku-ji (G4.4) was originally the family temple of the powerful Fujiwara clan. The Fujiwara was one of Japan’s most influential aristocratic families during the Nara and Heian (Kyoto) periods. It is part of the Nara UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Five-Storey Pagoda
The Five-Storey Pagoda, rebuilt in 1426, is Japan’s second-tallest wooden pagoda and an icon of Nara. Unless you have a wide-angle lens, the pagoda is best photographed from the pond.
The temple complex includes the Chu-kondō (Central Golden Hall G4.2) and Tō-kondō (Eastern Golden Hall G4.4), showcasing the artistry of ancient Japanese architecture.
Kokuho-kan
Kokuho-kan (National Treasure Hall G4.5) is a must-see. It contained the most superb carving we have seen in Japan. The temple houses many National Treasures, including the famous Asura statue, a masterpiece of Nara-period Buddhist sculpture. We spent 30 minutes looking at a very small museum. We found an excellent booklet in English sold at the exit and went around again for 30 minutes.
Ara-Ike and Sagi Ike
Distance: Nara Station–Sagi Pond 2 km 32 min
We walked east to two ike (ponds): Ara-Ike (G4.1) and Sagi Ike (G4.4). Here, we saw a mid-pond pavilion linked by a bridge. People were row-boating on the pond.
We were attracted to one of the teahouses with a bamboo grove lining the garden. It was a rare chance to photograph bamboo trees that actually had some sunlight on their trunks. There were different shades of green with leaf shadows on the bark.
We noticed some flower arrangements. An attendant said we could not go in. But two women who spoke English well said it was okay. I assume this was because of our genuine interest in the ikebana.
Tea Ceremony
A tea ceremony (chado) was being held for the 55th anniversary of their ikebana school. An attendant said we could join the tea ceremony! We went in and had the delicious green tea (matcha). Fortunately, we had learned a bit about tea ceremonies at the Urasenke Chado Research Centre in Kyoto.
The act of preparing and serving tea is a meditative ritual, refined by Zen Buddhists. Every movement is deliberate and precise. We noticed the flowers in the background, which were used to create a connection with nature. The ceremony often involves a shared appreciation of tea’s flavor, fragrance, and aesthetic presentation.
Genmaicha Tea
Genmaicha is made from matcha (green tea) mixed with roasted brown rice. Some of the rice grains pop during the roasting process. This gives it a popcorn-like appearance, earning it the nickname popcorn tea. We loved its mild nutty flavour more than matcha. It is available here for ≥ CAD 20 (USD 14) for 300g.
Genmaicha is written in kanji as 玄米茶. The symbol 玄 (Gen) means dark or mysterious, 米 (Mai) means rice, and 茶 (Cha) means tea. The character 茶 is pronounced Cha in Mandarin and Cantonese. It is the origin of the word chai in Hindi and Russian. The character 茶 is pronounced Te in Fujianese and Taiwanese. It is the origin of the word thee in Dutch and tea in English.
We left the tea house along a heavily treed forest path. It was quiet, even on a Sunday. Then we found deer!
Tōdai-ji Temple
Fee: JPY 800 (USD 5.35)
Hours: Apr-Oct 7:30–17:30; Nov-Mar 8:00–17:00
Distance: 840 m, 11 min N of Sagi Pond; 2 km, 32 min walk E of Nara Station
Emperor Shōmu felt personally responsible for the 735–737 CE smallpox tragedy. This was based on a concept rooted in Confucian thought. As a ruler, he saw himself as a moral and spiritual guide for his people. The loss of one-third of the population was a calamity. It was perceived as a reflection of his failure to maintain harmony and virtue in the realm.
He commissioned the construction of Tōdai-ji and its Daibutsu (Great Buddha) statue as a symbol of unity and peace. Completed in 752 CE, Tōdai-ji served as the head temple for all provincial Buddhist temples in Japan. It is part of the Nara World Heritage Site.
Nandaimon Gate
The imposing Nandaimon Gate (G4.5), the entrance to Todai-ji, was completed in 1199. The Great (dai) South (nan) Gate (mon) was originally red lacquered wood that has now faded. The 25 m (82 ft) tall structure shows incredible Japanese engineering and craftsmanship.
The pillars are 19 m (65 ft) high. In the 8th century, they did not have big forestry trucks to transport huge logs. These huge trees had to be transported by sea from the north of Japan. At the nearest port, they used 120 oxen to pull these logs to Nara. Putting it into perspective, you realize just how incredible a feat it was to build such monumental buildings.
Nio
The gate marks the transition into a sacred space guarded by two colossal statues of Nio Heavenly Kings. These fierce guardians are the Deva Kings that originated from India. The over 8 m tall statues were sculpted in the 13th century by master artists Unkei and Kaikei.
Vaiśravaṇa (Sanskrit for “Great Fame”) is the name of the chief of the Four Heavenly Kings. Bishamon (the Japanese name for Vaiśravaṇa) is the god of war and punishes people who do evil things. Bishamon is shown wearing armour and holding a spear in one hand and a small pagoda in the other. The pagoda symbolizes the divine treasure house, which holds things he guards or gives away.
When the Japanese adopted Buddhism, they also accepted all the symbolism, mythology, and literature that came with it. The Buddhists reinterpreted the animistic spirits or gods as protectors of the Buddha. They make sure that evil spirits don’t go through the gates and into their temple.
Daibutsuden
Distance: 1 km 18 min N of Sagi Pond
The imposing Daibutsuden (G4.6), or Great (dai) Buddha (butsu) Hall (den), is the largest wooden structure in the world. The great fire of 1180 destroyed much of the temple complex, including the original Daibutsuden. The current structure is actually 30% smaller than the original 8th-century building.
The Daibutsuden is also known as the Kon-dō, a generic term for the main hall of a Buddhist temple. The Daibutsuden is a masterpiece of traditional Japanese architecture. They did not use nails or cement. It features a complex system of wooden frames, brackets, and joinery that allows the structure to withstand earthquakes.
Daibutsu
The Daibutsu is one of the largest bronze Buddha statues in the world, standing about 15 m (49 ft) tall. The creation of this masterpiece was a monumental undertaking. It required the efforts of 2,600 artisans and the use of cutting-edge bronze casting techniques. The statue was cast in 743 CE using a complex process that involved pouring molten bronze into a clay mold.
This statue depicts Vairocana, the ultimate truth or cosmic body of the Buddha. Vairocana is considered the source of enlightenment and the embodiment of wisdom and purity.
The lotus petals on the base of the Great Buddha are intricately engraved with beautiful and symbolic designs. The lotus is a symbol of purity and spiritual awakening in Buddhist philosophy. It rises above muddy waters to bloom in pristine beauty.
Karahafu
The building features an undulating gable, known as karahafu, which is a distinctively Japanese architectural form. The flowing, wave-like form adds elegance and grandeur. It makes a statement piece that this is a sacred space.
Octagonal Lantern
Dating back to the 8th century, it is one of the oldest National Treasures of Tōdai-ji. The octagonal-shaped lantern has intricate, diamond-shaped grilles on its panels. It rests on a stone base supported by a lotus-shaped pedestal. The lantern’s design and placement reflect Buddhist principles, symbolizing the light of wisdom dispelling the darkness of ignorance.
Four panels are ornamented with celestial musicians in lithe poses. The figures seem to float on a cloud. The serpentinata (S-shaped curves) of the scarves imply movement in the wind.
Sangatsudo
A flight of stairs leads to a stage on piles. We enjoyed a sunset with the five-storey pagoda and a good view of the Nara Valley. We had a quiet walk back at night with the paths lit up by many bronze lanterns.
Nigatsu-dō
Nigatsu-dō (G4.6), or the Hall of the Second (ni) Month (gatsu), was originally constructed in 752 CE. It is closely linked to the monk Jitchū, who introduced the Shuni-e (Second Month Ceremony) in 760 CE. This annual Buddhist repentance ritual has been performed without interruption for over 1,250 years. The hall is supported by wooden columns on a slope, creating a dramatic and elegant appearance. The current building was reconstructed in 1669 after a fire.
Nara Park
Fees: Free; shika senbei crackers JPY 150 (USD 1.00)
Hours: 24 hours
Distance: 559 m 7 min S of Sangatsudo; 3 km 35 mins walk E of Nara Station
Bus Fare: JPY 220 from Kencho-higashi (Omiya-dori and Hwy 169)
Nara-koen or Nara Park (G4.5) is home to over 1,200 wild sika deer, which are considered sacred in Japanese culture. According to Shinto beliefs, these deer are messengers of the gods. The legend originates from Kasuga Taisha Shrine, where a deity is said to have arrived riding a white deer. Since then, the deer have been protected and revered. The free-roaming deer symbolize the harmony between humans and nature, embodying the city’s serene atmosphere.
We were really shocked when we came here before the cell phone and the information era. We did not really know what to expect. A Japanese man was talking to the deer. He was trying to get the deer to do something. Then he offered food, and the deer bowed its head! We said this could only happen in Japan.
Today, the majority of tourists come to meet the deer, who are known for bowing politely when given a cracker. Stalls sell special rice bran “Shika Senbei” treats, which are safe for the deer to eat.
Kasuga Shrine
Fees: Free; inner shrine JPY 500 (USD 3.35); museum JPY 500 (USD 3.35);
Manyo Botanical Garden JPY 500 (USD 3.35)
Hours: Mar-Oct 6:30–17:30; Nov-Feb 7:00–17:00
Distance: 1 km 21 min S of Sangatsudo via Nara Park;
2 km 41 mins walk E of Nara Station
Kasuga Shrine or Kasuga-taisha (G4.5) is a renowned Shinto shrine established in 768 CE. It was closely linked to the powerful Fujiwara clan. This Shinto shrine is a serene and picturesque spot.
The shrine’s vibrant vermilion buildings and architectural style are visually striking and culturally significant. Dedicated to deities that protect the city, the shrine has been a place of worship since ancient times.
Inside, Japanese people were throwing money into the donation box to get their fortune told. We shook the bronze cylinder til a numbered rod came out. Then we received our fortunes in English. This is a partial view of the fortune slip. These practices are deeply rooted in Shinto beliefs, offering guidance and blessings to those seeking insight into their lives.
Kasuga Lanterns
The shrine is famous for its 3,000 stone and bronze lanterns. They are illuminated during the Lantern Festival, creating a magical atmosphere. At the rear of the main hall, we found a long line of bronze lanterns to photograph. A stream ran below them.
The path was overly decorated with stone lanterns. They were all basically similar, though some had a white sheet with wishes on it.
Ginkgo Trees
We saw beautiful golden ginkgo (ishi) trees. The origin of ginkgo trees can be traced back to China. These “living fossils” have existed for over 200 million years! Another deer bowed to a man feeding it!!!
Surrounding the shrine is the ancient Kasugayama Primeval Forest, untouched for over 1,000 years.
The miko (Shinto shrine maidens) play an important ceremonial role. They are dressed in traditional attire, including red hakama (pleated skirts), symbolizing purity and their connection to the divine.
Hōryū-ji Temple
Fee: JPY 2000 (USD 13.40)
Hours: Feb 22-Nov 03 8:00–17:00; else 16:30
Road: 14 km, 37 min drive SE of Nara Station
Train: 16 mins every 20 mins
plus 1.9 km, 23 min walk N of Hōryū-ji Station
Website: Hōryūji: A Brief History
Hōryū-ji Temple (G4.5) was founded by Prince Shotoku in 607 CE and damaged by fire in 670 CE. Hōryū-ji remains one of the oldest surviving wooden structures in the world. Its design reflects a blend of Chinese Buddhist architectural styles adapted to Japanese culture.
It was intended as a centre of academic and cultural activities. The temple played a pivotal role in spreading Buddhism in Japan. The complex covers an area of 25 acres.
Kondo
The West Wing consists of Gojunoto (G4.6), or the Five-storied Pagoda and the Kondo (G4.6) or Golden Hall. Hōryū-ji is the one site that is far from the city centre. It is a 14 km drive or train ride away. There were incredibly few people so early in the morning. It was very quiet until, suddenly at 11:00 hrs., armies of tour groups invaded!
Onigawara Tiles
The most impressive sights were small details that you need to look for. These buildings had unusually fine decorative elements. At the top of the eaves, look for these roundels and demon-like figures.
The demon-like figures are called Onigawara or “demon tiles”. These ornamental roof tiles are commonly found on Japanese temples and shrines. They often depict the face of an oni, a demon or ogre from Japanese folklore. These features serve aesthetic, spiritual and practical purposes.
- The demon tiles are believed to ward off evil spirits and misfortune, acting as protective talismans for the building.
- The Onigawara and roundels help prevent rainwater from entering the structure by sealing the roof edges.
The floral roundels on Japanese roofs are typically decorative motifs representing nature or spiritual protection. Interestingly, their origin dates back to the 6th century, when roof tiles were introduced to Japan along with Buddhism. Over time, the designs evolved from floral patterns to the more fearsome faces we see today.
The more you understand something, the more you can appreciate what you are seeing. Now you know these tiles and figures are not just decoration. They are guardians of the temple.
The dragons on the Kondo’s columns were very scary. Dragons represent protection and power. They guard sacred spaces and ward off evil spirits. These intricate designs reflect the fusion of Buddhist symbolism and Japanese craftsmanship.
Daihōzō-den
The Daihōzō-den (G4.4), or the Great Treasure Hall, is a museum within the Hōryū-ji temple complex. It preserves many National Treasures, including ancient Buddhist statues, paintings, and ceremonial objects.
Even though we left it for the end, there were still hordes of student groups going through. Incredibly, they just shuffled ahead, not paying any attention to the art objects. They were more interested in saying hello to us in an attention-getting way. It was not enjoyable! There were several interesting items with English labels. Photography was not allowed.
Yumedono
The Yumedono (G4.4) or Hall of Dreams is closely linked to Prince Shōtoku, who sponsored the adoption of Buddhism by Japan. Unlike most temple buildings, the Yumedono has an octagonal shape, symbolizing harmony and balance. Yumedono holds a secret Buddha statue, the Yumedono Kannon, which is only displayed to the public at specific times. Kannon is the Bodhisattva of Compassion.
Chugu-ji
Fee: JPY 600 (USD 4.00)
Hours: Mar 21-Sep 30 9:00–16:30; else closes 16:00
Road: 14 km, 37 min drive SE of Nara Station
Train: 16 mins every 20 mins
+ 1.8 km 21 mins walk N of Hōryū-ji Station
Chūgū-ji (G4.3) is a fascinating Buddhist temple located a short distance from Hōryū-ji. It was originally established as a nunnery in the 7th century by Prince Shōtoku. The temple served as a training ground for imperial princesses and aristocratic women.
The temple houses the famous Miroku Bosatsu (Maitreya Bodhisattva) statue, a National Treasure of Japan. This wooden statue is renowned for its serene expression, often referred to as the “archaic smile”. It reminds me of The Thinkersculpture by Rodin.
Another masterpiece is the Tenjukoku Shūchō Mandala. This oldest embroidery in Japan symbolizes the Buddhist concept of paradise and is a significant cultural artifact.
A bit of a ripoff in that we paid to see only two things. But they both were beautiful. I took a photo of the embroidery without flash before an attendant told us no photos were allowed. There was no sign.
Other Places to See
Other places you can visit include:
Naramachi — Stroll through charming streets filled with traditional houses, shops, and cafes. A historic district with traditional merchant houses, perfect for a leisurely stroll and some shopping.
Isuien Garden (G4.5) is a beautiful Japanese garden offering a peaceful retreat and stunning views.
Open: 09:30 – 16:30 closed Tues; Fee: JPY 1200 (USD 8.00)
Wakakusayama (G4.5) – Enjoy a short hike to Mount Wakakusa, which offers panoramic views of the city.
Open: Mar-Dec 09:00 – 17:00; Fee: JPY 150 (USD 1.00)
Nara Cherry Blossom Places
Yoshinoyama (mountain) is one of Japan’s most famous sakura spots. It is located 41 km, 37 minutes by car, south of Nara Station. It is 2:15 hrs. by trains (three lines) plus a 9 min walk. Fare: JPY 852 – 904 (USD 5.70 – 6.05)
Yoshinoyama is renowned for its extended sakura season, with around 30,000 cherry trees spread across four distinct altitudes:
Shimo Senbon, the Lower 1,000 Trees (G4.4), is located at the base of the mountain. This is the only area accessible by train.
Naka Senbon, the Middle 1,000 Trees (G4.3), includes Yoshino’s town center, with temples, shrines, and accommodations. It is a popular spot for hanami picnics under the blossoms.
Kami Senbon, the Upper 1,000 Trees (G4.4), is higher up and offers more secluded views and fewer crowds.
Oku Senbon, the Inner 1,000 Trees, is at the top of the mountain and blooms later than the other areas.
Kawaji Cherry Trees (G4.5) is a 1 km, 16 min, walk north of Nara Station. The Sahogawa riverbank is lined with cherry trees offering a peaceful and picturesque setting for a stroll.
Koriyama Castle Ruins (G4.0) is 7 km south of Nara Station and 6 mins by train plus a 21-min walk. The castle’s walls and moat provide a beautiful backdrop for cherry blossoms, making it a unique hanami location.
Heijo Palace Site (G4.5) is a 5 km, 13 min. drive or 39 mins. bus ride and walk west of Nara Station. It is dotted with cherry trees, perfect for a leisurely walk.
Nara Food
To save money during our three-year round-the-world trip, we rarely ate at expensive restaurants. We often shopped for ready-to-eat food at supermarkets and the food sections of department stores. Some items are marked on sale at the end of the day. Another choice is the 7-11 stores.
Prices are somewhat higher for imported foods. As the saying goes, “When in Japan, eat as the Japanese do”. But we did get lunch at Pizza Hut after we discovered that they have unique seafood pizzas.
Many Japanese restaurants still display plastic food models, known as sampuru, in their front windows. These realistic replicas showcase the dishes offered on the menu, making it easier for customers to visualize the options. Sampuru is not only practical but also an art form, with skilled artisans crafting each model to look incredibly lifelike.
This tradition is especially helpful for tourists who may not read Japanese. You can simply point to the dish that you want. Another strategy is to walk around the restaurant and see what the Japanese are ordering. Then point to the most coon dish they ordered. We also had a small book, Eating Cheap in Japan, that highlighted Japanese dishes to try.
Nara Weather
| Season – Months | Temp °C | Temp °F |
|---|---|---|
| Spring: April–May | 22.5° | 72.5° |
| Summer: June–August | 30.3° | 86.6° |
| Fall: September–November | 22.3° | 72.2° |
Nara Best Time
April is the peak spring month due to the cherry blossoms. November is the peak autumn month due to the autumn leaves. June is the rainy season. August is the hottest month with an average high of 33°C.
| Season | Months | Thousands of Visits |
|---|---|---|
| Winter | December – March | 150 – 220 |
| Spring | April – May | 270 – 300 |
| Summer | June – August | 180 – 200 |
| Fall | September – November | 250 – 280 |
Nara Overtourism
Kyoto is the epitome of over-tourism, with 50 million tourists per year! Nara is much less crowded, with about 9 million visitors per year. That is still twice as many visitors as go to Banff or Yosemite National Parks. Moreover, 80-90% are domestic tourists.
The city’s iconic deer in Nara Park is a major attraction for tourists. This has led to incidents involving tourists getting too close to or taunting the deer, resulting in injuries.
While overtourism isn’t as severe, it’s still busy during peak travel periods. In particular, most tourists come for the cherry blossoms in April and the autumn leaves in November.
But the city has one problem: getting tourists to sleep over in Nara. The majority of tourists day-trip to Nara. We stayed in Nara for three nights, and it was well worth it. We enjoyed the more relaxed and immersive experience. Definitely visit Nara if you love temples, history, and nature.
Nara Getting Around
Nara is a small city of only 367,400 people. You can walk to most places except Hōryū-ji. Nara is a good base to see Kyoto and Uji.
| Route by Auto | Distance by Road | Time by Road |
|---|---|---|
| Nara – Osaka | 34 km | 0:27 hrs |
| Nara – Kyoto | 42 km | 0:36 hrs |
| Nara – Uji | 30 km | 0:24 hrs |
Get the Rome2Rio app if you are travelling by bus or train. Generally, it is much faster to travel by train. These are the train fares and times. It is only 36 minutes and $4 from Kyoto by train. It is 42 km by car.
| Route by Train or Bus | Fare JPY | Fare USD | Time |
|---|---|---|---|
| Nara – Osaka | JPY 530 – 570 | USD 3.55 – 3.82 | 0:34 hrs |
| Nara– Kyoto | JPY 590 – 630 | USD 3.95 – 4.22 | 0:38 hrs |
| Nara – Uji | JPY 490 – 530 | USD 3.28 – 3.55 | 0:36 hrs |
Nara Resources
Eating Cheap in Japan, book by Kimiko Nagasawa and Camy Condon
Japan Nara Google Map, our custom Google My Maps itinerary
Nara Tourist Map, PDF download
Nara Sightseeing Map, PDF download
Final Comments
We hope this post will encourage you to visit intriguing Nara. We came mainly to see the Tōdai-ji Temple. We stayed for a few days to enjoy the relaxing and historic atmosphere.
You do not need to spend time only in “famous” or modern places to see Japan.
Surprising Fact for Today
The Pagoda was derived from the circular burial mound, or stupa, where the Buddha was buried. For more surprising facts, read Unlock Japan: Insider Tips & FAQs. For more information on the origin of pagodas, read these posts:
Surprising Connections Between Nepal and Japan
From Past to Pagoda: Exploring Chinese Gems
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Google Maps Ratings
Google Maps provides a rating from 0 to 5 for all sights, hotels, and restaurants (but not cities). All our recommendations are appended with the rating (prefixed with a G) from Google Maps. Google Ratings are based on feedback from locals as well as tourists. They are much more reliable than travel booking websites or tourist anecdotes.
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Nikko — an Ornate Gem
Nikkō is not a hidden gem, but it is a gem. Unlike many other locations, you do not travel here for the town. Travel here for the UNESCO World Heritage Sites, including the Toshogu Shrine, Futarasan-jinja, and the Rinnoji temple complex (Sanbutsudo, Taiyu-in). These ornate gems are not only architecturally impressive but also historically significant.Visit Nikkō if you love temples, history, art, and nature. The temples are located in a national park. The vibrant colours in autumn foliage draw visitors to Nikkō. Do not miss out on intriguing Nikkō.
Author & Photographer: George Mitchell
Our advice is not influenced by affiliate links — we have none. Our itineraries, photos, and advice come from three years of travelling around the world, including three months in Japan. We are avid hikers, nature lovers, and photographers. We are students of art and architecture, culture and cuisine.
Nikko Itinerary
The walking itinerary is shown on the Japan Nikko Map. All the points of interest are appended with their Google Maps Ratings, which range from G0 to G5.The following itinerary-based post is described in geographic (map) order. But you may want to visit Toshogu Shrine right away to enjoy less crowds in the early morning.
Getting Around
https://www.japan-guide.com/e/e3805.html" title="Nikko Transport Routes, Japan Guide https://www.japan-guide.com/e/e3805.html" class="has-alt-description">Nikko Transport Routes © Japan Guide
The JR Nikko and Tobu-Nikko train stations are near each other. There is a World Heritage Tour bus every 12 minutes from the station to the Rinnoji and other stops.
Fare Includes JPY 350 (USD 2.25) One-way JPY 600 (USD 3.87) Day Pass Included Nikko Pass Shinkyo Sacred Bridge
Shinkyō Bridge, Nikko, [strong]CC BY-SA Wikimedia[/strong]
We walked everywhere: it’s about a 30-minute walk from the station to the temples. On the way, we saw a good view of the vermilion-lacquered Shinkyō Bridge. The rushing, rippled Daiyagawa (gawa means river) flowed beneath it and steep-sloped mountains soared above it. The autumn sun was too low for taking a photo.
We walked between beautiful, towering trees on Cryptomeria Avenue to Rinnoji Temple. The avenue can be seen on the right side of the bridge in the photo. Cryptomeria (Japanese sugi) is an endemic Japanese cypress tree that grows up to 70 m (230 ft) tall. They date back to the Late Eocene period (56 to 34 million years ago). There are three roads lined with Cryptomeria in this region. These avenues are three separate cross-country roads built by the Tokugawa Shogunate.
Nikkosan Rinnoji Temple
The Nikkosan Rinnoji was founded 1,250 years ago by Buddhist monk Shodo. It is not one building but like the Thai wat is really a temple complex with 36 buildings! It includes the Sanbutsu-do (the main hall of Rinnoji); Shoyo-en (Strolling Garden); and Taiyū-in Reibyō (the mausoleum). These are the main places worth seeing.Rinnoji Hours & Fees
Hours Apr-Oct 8:00 to 17:00 Nov-Mar 8:00 to 16:00 Fees JPY 400 USD 2.67 Sanbutsu-do only JPY 300 USD 2.00 Treasure House and Shoyoen Garden JPY 500 USD 3.34 Sanbutsu-do and Treasure House JPY 900 USD 6.00 Sanbutsu-do and Taiyu-in Shoyo-en
Shoyo-en Ticket Stub, Nikko
Shoyo-en or Strolling Garden is part of the Treasure House grounds in the southern part of the Rinnoji temple complex. The Japanese make the most artistic ticket stubs and we collected them.
This is a small but beautiful 1200-year-old Japanese traditional garden. Japanese garden design was heavily influenced by Chinese traditional gardens. Shoyo-en is a typical example of creating visual space in a small area. The garden features many shaped trees, stone lanterns, and a bridge. A pond is filled with colourful carp that swim towards you for handouts. It uses the borrowed scenery design principle allowing views of the Mt. Nantai and Nakimushi mountain ranges.
Kimono for a Tea Ceremony, Rinnoji Shoyo-en Garden, Nikko
This garden was created by Kobori Enshū, a garden designer, painter, and tea master during the Tokugawa (Edo) era. There were continuous tea ceremonies with many Japanese tourists.
Note that you have to remove your shoes when you go into a place with tatami mats. Tatami are soft mats made from rice straw used as a flooring material in traditional Japanese-style rooms.
Kimonos, Obis and Tea Ceremony, Rinnoji-Shoya, Nikko
Many women were wearing extraordinary silk kimonos, some very spectacular ones. In this case, it is the Obi (belt) that is ornate. The tea house doors were either open or glass, so we could watch. This was one of the best places to admire kimonos in Japan.
This garden is planted with colourful azaleas and rhododendrons that bloom in late spring and early summer. Photogenic red maple trees peak around the first half of November. We visited in late October.
Sanbutsu-do
Sanbutsu-do means Three (San) Buddhas (Butsu) Hall (do). It is the hondo (main hall) and the largest wooden building of Nikkozan Rinnoji Temple. This hall was originally founded by a famous priest, En-nin, in 848 CE.
Shrine, Sanbutsudo, Nikko
You can enter the hall for free. There are many chapels within the halls of Japanese shrines. There are 62 pillars made of Zelkova wood, each of which measures 2.4 m (8 ft) in circumference!
Chancel
Sanbutsudō Ticket Stub, Nikko,
The ticket is to enter the chancel on the right-hand side. Here the three Buddhas above can be seen close up.
As you go down the stairs, you will find a very interesting shrine dedicated to a god named Hashiri-Daikoku Ten. He is a god of wealth, business thriving and easy delivery. He also protects you against burglary. This is another example of worshipping gods in a non-theistic religion.
The three Buddhas are behind a black grate so they can not be seen well from the main hall. The lighting was very poor so I photographed the colourful entry ticket. The main impression is of gold ornateness.
These images represent the three gods of Nikkozan (Nikko Mountain). In Shintoism, Kami (spirits and deities) dwell in many natural features. The eight-metre-tall wooden statues covered in gold leaf are the largest wooden Buddha statues in Japan.
As in Japanese script, you start from right to left. The one on your right is Senju Kannon, which literally means Thousand-Armed Kannon. Look for the multiple arms, each holding a different attribute, representing her power. Avalokiteshvara is known for her boundless compassion and ability to relieve the suffering of all beings. She is a manifestation of a Bodhisattva, a symbol of the altruistic path that is important to Buddhism.
The one in the middle is Amida Nyorai, or the Amida Buddha. He can intervene in this world and save people in a god-like manner. He has achieved enlightenment.
The one on your left is Batou Kannon, or horse-headed Buddha. He is the Protector of Animals.
Gojū-no-tō Pagoda
Five Storey Pagoda, Nikkō Tōshogū Shrine
The Gojū-no-tō (G4.4) is a Five-Storied Pagoda: go means five. Each level signifies one of the five elements — earth, water, fire, wind, and void. Void is an element? Void symbolizes the space where potential exists and embodies the essence of creativity. The pagoda with its Burgundy red walls contrasting with the midnight blue tiles is awesome. The pagoda is a unique feature of Quintessential Japan.
We spent some time looking at the brightly painted brackets supporting the eaves. The first-story walls are decorated with animals from the Chinese zodiac. The pagoda was originally built in 1650. But don’t get too excited. It burned down in 1815. This is a reconstruction from 1819.
Nikkō Tōshogū Temple Complex
Nikkō Tōshogū (G4.5) is not one building, but like a Thai wat, it is really a temple complex. The architecture is stunning, with buildings and gates surrounded by very old trees. It is located in a park. Toshogu is also one of the most important shrines in Japan from a historical and religious viewpoint.Toshogu is the main reason for visiting Nikko. We started early (8:15), and we walked in with a few people. We had about 1.5 hours before the tour groups started arriving. Soon, the shrine was infested with tourists. Sunday may also be the worst day to visit, as many people can commute from Tokyo and other nearby cities. Most visitors were Japanese.
Japan went through a lengthy Sengoku jidai or Warring States Period during the Japanese medieval era. Daimyos (lords of prefectures) fought each other. The Tokugawa clan fought to take over all the other territories. Ieyasu Tokugawa was the founder of the Tokugawa Shogunate that unified Japan into one country, one government in 1608.
Shinkyūsha Sacred Stables
Sanzaru Three Monkeys, Sacred Stables, Nikkō
The Shinkyūsha (Sacred Stables) was originally built to house sacred horses. It is adorned with various carvings that depict the life cycle of a human being. Amazingly, the Sacred Stables are world-famous for the carving of Sanzaru, the Three Monkeys.The three monkeys Mizaru, Kikazaru, and Iwazaru depict the saying See No Evil, Speak No Evil, and Hear No Evil respectively. Notice that the saying is from right to left. Japanese script is read from right to left. Carvers sculpt from right to left (even in Ancient Greece and Rome) because they are usually right-handed.
Sanzaru Three Monkeys Close-up, Sacred Stables, Nikkō
This saying probably originated from the Confucius Code of Conduct and the principles of the Tendai–Buddhist sect. What’s significant is that this frieze spread this saying around the world. Unfortunately, some Westerners have misinterpreted this to mean turning a blind eye to evil. It actually means that one should live with integrity and not say bad things about other people.
The word zaru means a negative, but is also a play on the word saru, meaning monkey. The monkeys depicted are macaques, which are common in Japan.
Kamijinko Upper Sacred Storehouse
Elephants of Imagination, Kanō Tan’yū, Kamijinko, Nikkō
Head for the point on the Japan Nikko Map called Sanjiko, which means three sacred storehouses. Look for the relief carving of two elephants on the gable of the Kamijinko or Upper Sacred Storehouse. It is famous for its bas-relief carvings of two elephants by the renowned artist Kanō Tan’yū. Note that the Japanese say their last name first.
Kanō Tan’yū
Elephants of Imagination Closeup, Kanō Tan’yū, Kamijinko, Nikko
Kanō Tan’yū had never seen an elephant in real life. As Japan was isolated from the outside world, he relied on descriptions and illustrations to create these imaginative sculptures. These 17th-century sculptures are known as the Elephants of Imagination (Sōzō-no-Zō). One elephant is white, while the other is black. They are notable for their golden tusks, crescent-shaped eyes, small and misshapen ears, and clawed feet.
Kyōzō Sutra Library
Stone Lanterns, Kyōzō Library, Nikkō NP
To the west of the Kamijinko, you will see the Kyōzō or the Library. It is marked Rinzo on the Japan Nikko Map. This is where the sutras (sacred Buddhist scriptures) are stored.
The Kyōzō is elevated on a stone foundation to keep it above the damp ground. The walls are decorated with beautiful bell-shaped, latticework windows. Ornate gold trim contrasts with Cabernet-red wood walls. The gold friezes are adorned with Buddhist motifs, like the wheel of dharma and lotus flowers. The Wheel of Dharma is an ancient solar symbol that signifies the universal truths taught by the Buddha. The Lotus symbolizes the purity of the body, speech and mind. This is because the lotus floats above the murky waters of material attachment and physical desire.
We loved the old stone lanterns, which were first used in ancient China (Han Dynasty). Theywere primarily used as votive lights. They symbolize the illumination of Buddha’s teachings and guide believers through the darkness of ignorance. In Shintoism, stone lanterns serve as objects that attract kami (spirits or deities). The light of the lantern creates a sacred space.
Above Kyōzō on the right is the drum tower. Generally, it is a three-storey pavilion with a big drum placed in it. The drums are beaten to wake up people and sound out the time of day.
[strong]Yōmeimon Gate[/strong]
Karamon Gate Ticket Stub, Nikkō Tōshogū, Nikko
Yomeimon (mon means gate) is the most elaborately decorated structure in Nikko. Observing this beautiful structure in detail may take you an entire hour. It is also known as Sunset Gate because you could spend all day until sunset appreciating it. The gate features an undulating gable, known as karahafu, which is a distinctively Japanese architectural form. The roof rests on 12 white pillars and lintels. It is assumed that this is not a simple white paint. It is gofun, a traditional Japanese paint made from crushed seashells, i.e. calcium carbonate.
The gate was constructed in 1636. It has 611 intricate carvings — from mythical beasts to children at play. There were many animal carvings on the sacred red walls on either side. It looks like a three-dimensional tapestry.
Brackets of Yomeimon Gate, Nikkō Tōshogū, Nikko
Also spend time examining the gold-trimmed, black lacquered brackets that support the roof. These wooden brackets are interlocked without nails. They showcase ingenious joinery techniques with gorgeous decoration. Above the gate are carvings of Chinese mythology and Chinese children.
Nemuri-neko
Nemuri-neko, Toshogu Shrine, Nikko © Public Wikimedia
To the east of Yōmeimon Gate is Nemuri-neko (G4.4), literally nemuri, “sleeping/peaceful” and neko, “cat”. It is a famous and cute carving by Hidari Jingorō.
Tōshogū Karamon Gate
Karamon Gate, Tōshogū Shrine, Nikkō
Karamon gates are often used at the entrances of Japanese castles, Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines. Kara means elegant. Mon means gate. This style symbolizes authority and nobility. Karamon is a beautiful Chinese-style gate with exquisite bas-relief carvings. I do not remember how I took these photos without people in them!
Karahafu
The first striking feature is the undulating gable or karahafu that crowns the gate. The flowing, wave-like form adds elegance and grandeur. It makes a statement piece that this is a sacred space.
Karamon Gate, Nikkō Tōshogū, Nikko
The next striking features are the pillars and doors adorned with intricate carvings of rising and descending dragons. Unlike dragons in the West, Japanese dragons (ryū) are closely linked to water. They are considered water deities and are believed to bring rain, which is essential for agriculture. Dragons symbolize strength and power. They are often depicted in temples and shrines as protectors who ward off evil spirits and bring good fortune. The symbolism and cultural significance of dragons are common in Southeast and East Asia. Like in China, the dragon is a symbol of the emperor. In Thailand, they are called naga. Read more in Thai Naga Guardians.
[strong]Gofun[/strong] is a traditional Japanese paint made from powdered seashells. The gate is coated with ultra-white [strong]gofun[/strong], providing a stark contrast to the blue and green colours.
Karamon Gate Detail, Nikkō Tōshogū, Nikko
The gate is the epitome of Japanese craftsmanship during the Edo Period (aka Tokyo, the capital of the Tokugawa Shogunate). Beneath the undulating gable are carvings of sages and wise men from Chinese and Japanese lore. These symbolize wisdom and learning. Lions and other mythical beings symbolize protection and power. Peonies and chrysanthemums represent beauty and longevity. Countless hours of carving tell stories that are part of Japanese culture.
Tokugawa Emblem
© CC BY-SA
Look for the Tokugawa Hollyhock emblem whenever you visit an Edo Era temple or palace. In the Karamon, they can be found in the roundels below the blue roof tiles of the undulating gable.
Karamon Gable Detail, Nikkō Tōshogū, Nikko
Nikkō Tōshogū
Ieyasu Tokugawa, the founder of the dynasty, is enshrined in the Inner Shrine. It was incredible to see the Japanese bow several times towards a wall curtained with the Tokugawa crest.The Toshogu Shrine is a combination of Buddhist and Shinto architecture. The Buddhist elements are the pagoda, belfry and drum tower. The Shinto elements are the torii gate, sacred cistern, and oratory.
Japanese architecture originated in China. There is one major difference. Chinese architecture exists in an artificial setting surrounded by high walls. Japanese architecture is built in a natural environment. In Nikko, this is a dense forest of cryptomeria. Japanese art and architecture are noted for restrained elegance. However, Nikkō Tōshō-gū is lavishly decorated with gold leaf, vibrant colours, and elaborate lacquer work. It can rival any of the ornate Thai wats.
Yakushido Temple
Yakushido is famous for its ceiling mural, Crying Dragon. We did not feel it was that great. The original was destroyed by fire in 1961. We clapped our hands and heard the echo of a ‘roaring dragon’. There was an elaborate chancel with Sunlight and Moonlight Buddhas and 12 Sacred Warriors.Futarasan
Futarasan was not very special and was an extra cost. We did see a shrine maiden dance in the hall.Taiyu-in
Kokamon Gate, Taiyuinbyo, Nikko
Taiyū-in Reibyō is the mausoleum of Tokugawa Iemitsu, the third Shogun of the Tokugawa Shogunate (Dynasty). Iemitsu was given the posthumous Buddhist title of Taiyū by the Emperor. The shrine was completed in 1280.
Sacred Fence
Taiyuinbyo Sacred Fence, Nikkō
The Sacred Fence encircles Taiyuinbyo, sitting on a raised platform. It is a symbolic boundary between the sacred and the secular, emphasizing the sanctity of the mausoleum. The fence is believed to protect the sacred space from negative energies and evil spirits.
It is known as the Sukibei (latticework fence) due to its intricate design. The unusual blue latticework is very attractive and elegant. On the panels are carved bamboo, pines, plum blossoms and doves.
Bamboo symbolizes longevity due to its durability. It bends but does not break. Pine also symbolizes longevity because it does not wither in the winter. It is held in high esteem due to its ability to withstand strong winds and cold winters. Plum (Ume) was the most revered flower before the current obsession with cherry blossoms. Plum blossoms symbolize good fortune and the arrival of spring, since they are the first flowers to bloom. Doves are symbols of love, fidelity, and longevity.
Taiyū-in Karamon
Karamon, Taiyū-in, Nikko, Japan [strong]© [strong]CC BY-SA Wikimedia[/strong][/strong]
As you walk up the stone steps, you feel as though you are ascending to a heavenly realm. Note the Sacred Fence surrounding the mausoleum.
Karamon Gate, Taiyuinbyo, Nikkō
There is a pair of cranes under the gable board. A white dragon on golden waves is carved on a beam covered with gold trim. This is quite a contrast to the rest of the shrine.
Taiyū-in Nitenmon
Nitenmon, Taiyū-in, Nikko, © CC BY-SA Wikimedia
Nitenmon (G4.5) or Two Heavenly Kings Gate was very beautiful. It features statues of Indian guardian deities, Dhrtarastra and Virupaksa, who protect the sacred space.
Notice the really nice moss-covered stone lanterns and massive cryptomeria trees throughout the grounds.
Haiden Oratory
By now, we were overwhelmed. We didn’t even notice the famous paintings. Everything just seemed very ornate. Postcards & books were on sale, including a very good picture booklet (softcover) on Toshogu Shrine. It was more of a picture book than an explanation.Nikko Festivals
If you are interested in culture, you can see two festivals in Nikko.
- Toshogu Shrine Grand Spring Festival on May 17-18 features traditional ceremonies and performances.
- Toshogu Shuki Taisai Grand Autumn Festival on October 16-17 honours Shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu. The festival includes a samurai parade with 1,000 fully armoured samurai, longbow archery, and horseback archery.
Kegon Falls
Kegon Falls and Chūzenji-ko, Nikko
Nikko National Park is blessed with picturesque mountains and serene lakes. You can get there by car or bus. Nikkō is renowned for its relaxing Onsen (Hot Springs). Yumoto Onsen is famous for its healing waters and tranquil atmosphere. One of Japan’s most beautiful waterfalls, Kegon Falls, is located 16 km, 0:24 hrs. west of Nikko.
The 97-m-high waterfall is a sight to behold, especially in the autumn when the surrounding foliage is ablaze with colour. We were there in late October 25th, so the trees were just starting to change. The autumn foliage in Nikkō is particularly famous, attracting visitors to witness the vibrant colours.
Final Comments
We hope this post will encourage you to visit intriguing Nikkō. We came solely to see Toshogu. But we found so much more.We also hope you have learned that you do not need to spend time in “famous” and more modern places. You can just as easily experience traditional Japan in a smaller town like Nikkō.
Nikko Getting Around
Nikkō is a good jumping-off place for the scenic Japanese Alps including Azuma-kofuji (G4.6) and Bandai-san (G4.5), two beautiful volcanoes.
Road Route Distance Time by Road Nikko – Kegon Falls 16 km 0:24 hrs Nikko – Tokyo 149 km 1:50 hrs Nikko – Takayama 345 km 4:45 hrs Nikko – Kanazawa 394 km 5:24 hrs Nikko – Azuma-kofuji 197 km 2:30 hrs Nikko – Bandai-san 182 km 2:20 hrs Get the Rome2Rio app if you are travelling by bus or train. Generally, it is much faster to travel by train. These are the fares and times. Kegon Falls has no train connection.
Route by Train or Bus Fare JPY Fare USD Time Nikko – Kegon Falls Bus ¥1718 $11.10 0:55 hrs Nikko – Tokyo Train ¥2288- 5500 $14.78 – 35.53 2:00 hrs When to Visit
Is Nikko overtouristed? Let’s put things into perspective:
- If you have decided to visit Japan you must accept that 125 million people live in a country that is 57% of the size of Alberta, Canada; 99% of the size of Montana, USA; or 98% of the size of Norway.
- There are few hidden gems in Japan unless you travel far north or south.
- Part of travelling is seeing the locals at work or play.
- Kyoto had 71.28 million visitors in 2022 – that’s overtourism. Approximately 80% of the total tourists visiting Kyoto were from Japan.
- Rome had 35 million visitors in 2023 and people still go there.
- Paris had 48 million visitors in 2023 and people still go there.
Nikko is not hidden – over 12 million tourists visit annually! The vast majority ca. 85% to 90% are Japanese travellers. It is close to Tokyo and easily reached by train. Many individuals and tours visit as a day trip. A better choice is to sleep over in Nikko and enjoy the quieter mornings and evenings.
Weekends are the busiest days, especially from 10:00 to 14:00 hrs., since many Japanese flock here. Avoid Sakura Season (early April), Golden Week (late April-May period) and the Obon Festival in mid-August.
When Toshogu and Rinnoji are overcrowded, head to Kanmanga-fuchi Abyss (G4.5), which offers serene walking paths along the Daiya-gawa (river), lined with a row of mysterious Jizō statues. Jizō is a bodhisattva who protects children and travellers. They are found all over Japan in Buddhist temples and on roadsides. Like Buddhism itself, they originate from India.
Surprising Fact for Today
The Tokugawa shogunate (dynasty) closed Japan from the world for 215 years between 1639 to 1853! For more surprising facts, read Unlock Japan: Insider Tips & FAQs.Subscribe
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This was only a taste of Nikkō. [em][em]What questions do you have?[/em] If you have been to Japan, share your experiences with us. How long is/was your trip? [/em]
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Google Maps provides a rating from 0 to 5 for all sights, hotels, and restaurants (but not cities). All our recommendations are appended with the rating (prefixed with a G) from Google Maps. Google Ratings are based on feedback from locals as well as tourists. They are much more reliable than travel booking websites or tourist anecdotes.We consider a score of 4 to 4.39 to be Very Good and 4.4 to 5 to be Excellent. Yet, in Japan, many must-see sights are rated by the Japanese as 4.2. Based on this, we would consider the range of 4.2 to 5 to be Excellent.
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