A road warrior in Oz

Australia is a land of remote places; most of the country has little to no mobile network coverage. Likewise, many of these remote regions are served by little to no road network. Where there is no paved road, the driving surface may be gravel, dirt or sand. Dystopian Mad Max visions aside, it really is a country for road warriors. Naturally, we decided to hire one for a short road trip with caravanning friends, camping in southern Queensland and northern New South Wales.

Coordinates

• South Ballina
• Lake Arragan
• Currumbin
• Murwillumbah
• Mount Barney
• Mount Lindesay
• Queen Mary Falls
• Killarney

A Gold Coast excursion

We took breakfast with a view from Elephant Rock, looking up Currumbin Beach and beyond to Burleigh Heads and the skyscrapers of Surfers Paradise on the Gold Coast (📷1). Living on the rock and sunning themselves upon the steps to the lookout over Tugun Beach were Intellagama lesueurii, the Australian water dragon (📷2). Continuing south into NSW we visited the Tweed Regional Gallery and Margaret Olley Art Centre, set in the Tweed Valley in Bundjalung Country, which formed from the eroded caldera of an ancient shield volcano. Wollumbin | Mount Warning stands as the remnant volcanic plug (📷3) in the centre of what is one of the largest erosion calderas in the Southern Hemisphere. Also seen from the art gallery, Springbrook Plateau, viewed some ~23M years later, is one of the best-preserved sections of the original crater rim (📷4). Both geological features are included within the Gondwana Rainforests of Australia World Heritage Area. To follow, we took a wander around the museum, township and sampled a milkshake in a 50s-style diner in Murwillumbah.

A 4WD ute hire

We rented a Britz Warrior 4WD ute, based on a Ford Ranger double cab with automatic transmission and a 3,650kg GVM upgrade (📷1). Specs include high and low-range four-wheel drive; bullbar; snorkel; all-terrain tyres; long-range fuel tank; two spare tyres; personal locator beacon (PLB); Outback safety kit; two roof-top tents (📷2); 3m tall canopy with kitchenette (📷3); and a 270 degree “bat wing” awning with camping table and chairs (📷4). Ours also came with an infestation of baby Huntsman spiders and ants!

Monitoring and insurance

A window sticker advised us that parent company thl monitor the location, speed and safe driving of their hire vehicles. There are rules by state that stipulate where you can and cannot go e.g. no beaches whatsoever; no ferries without prior approval. Furthermore, an insurance upgrade is mandatory to avoid an 8,000 AUD bond being charged to your credit card. You can also opt for independent gap cover to reduce liability e.g. Zero Excess Rental Cover from RentalCover.

✳️ Tips and tricks

Appreciating our Britz Warrior 4WD hire

It was an interesting exercise to research and reflect on the likely rationale the rental company had for the specification of their 4WD rentals:

• Ford Ranger double cab with automatic transmission: For two travellers the back seat offers extra storage space (which we used in preference to the canopy) and a compact indoor living area in wet weather; for four it offers the requisite number of belted seats.
• High and low-range 4-wheel drive (4WD, or 4×4 if you prefer): Gear ratios affect a vehicle’s torque and speed; gears are set for normal driving speeds in high-range mode, proving extra traction without massive torque, suitable for e.g. gravel roads; in low-range mode the gearing is much lower, dramatically increasing the torque at the wheels to allow the vehicle to crawl over obstacles with maximum control, albeit slowly e.g. on steep inclines or descents.
• Bullbar: Offers structural protection from wildlife e.g. kangaroo strikes and deflect obstacles such as rocks or trees when off roading; may also serve as attachment points for accessories e.g. a winch or extra driving lights; although some people favour the “off-road aesthetic” bullbars can be dangerous for pedestrians or cyclists in an accident.
• Snorkel: By elevating the air intake a vehicle snorkel avoids engine damage that could otherwise occur if crossing deep water; it also helps keep the air filter from being overwhelmed by dust/ debris when driving off-road.
• All-terrain tyres: All-terrain tyres are suited to both on-road and off-road driving as they provide good grip in wet, muddy and uneven terrain while still providing decent traction on paved roads.
• Long-range fuel tank: 140 L provides increased range and peace of mind in unpredictable terrain, allowing for more flexibility in route choices and timings.
• Two spare tyres: With an increased risk of tyre damage in rough terrain, long distances between service centres and potential difficulty finding the right replacement tyres in the Outback, a second spare offers the flexibility to handle various scenarios/ multiple incidents.

Two spare wheels = double redundancy

• Personal locator beacon: PLBs are small devices for personal use in remote land-based locations (cf. Emergency Position Indicating Radio Beacons or EPIRBs, typically for maritime use); they are manually activated to transmit a distress signal that can be picked up by search and rescue teams or satellites, and feature long-lasting batteries.
• Outback safety kit: An air compressor, shovel and recovery boards are considered essential tools for a 4WD adventure in the Australian Outback as they help with tyre pressure management, recovery and getting your vehicle unstuck from soft surfaces (for more extreme adventures consider extras such as a tyre repair kit, recovery straps, first aid kit and additional communication devices e.g. radio or sat phone).
• Two roof-top tents: 1x Ironman and 1x Akuma, fitted with foam mattresses, LED lights and USB charge points, accessed via a ladder; their elevated position offers protection from wildlife, insects and weather, improved views/ ventilation, extra shade and they’re comparatively quick/ easy to set up and pack down—once you know how.
• Canopy: Turns the rear tray of a ute/ utility vehicle into a lockable, dust-resistant, weatherproof and flexible storage area, integrating a kitchen with slide-out bench/ cold water sink, fridge, pantry and two-burner portable gas stove; can be removable, as many Australians like to use their 4WD as both a camper and a work vehicle.
• 270 degree awning: Wraps around the side and rear of the vehicle, providing an expansive area of covered space; cooking, dining, relaxing or storing gear out of the hot sun or rain is advantageous.
• Camping table and chairs: Essential gear for cooking, eating and relaxing outside of the vehicle.

🤔 Curiosity

Our Aussie friends had very kindly organised a largely coastal itinerary in order to mitigate the tyranny of distance and avoid higher inland temperatures—as there had been in a recent protracted heatwave. We didn’t want to go too far into the wilderness as inexperienced 4WD drivers, but would welcome any opportunities to drive off the “black top” (paved road).

Queensland in the 4WD

Driving in convoy with experienced caravaners, for our first night we went inland from the Gold Coast to a pitch in the vicinity of Mount Barney. Our aim with this short hire was to gain familiarity with the 4WD’s camping form factor (such as negotiating access to/ from a rooftop tent in the small hours), rather than its off-roading abilities. Arriving later than planned, and with eyes peeled for kangaroos, we caught the evening light on Mount Lindesay as we neared our destination (📷1). Mount Barney Creek looked serene in the golden hour (📷2) and part of Mount Barney itself was visible from pitch (📷3). In the remaining daylight we figured out how to raise one of the rooftop tents and our friends lit a fire as dinner was prepared (📷4).

Were we actually camping?

We were not inside the vehicle; we were lying in a tent on top of one. A 4WD pick-up truck/ ute is not a motorhome, conventional RV nor camper van. It’s not self-contained, so living, cooking, toileting and other activities of daily life must be performed outdoors. So yes—this was “camping“. In fact, the experience was very much akin to the non-self contained car camping popular with young tourists in NZ—expect we slept atop cf. inside the vehicle. It presents similar challenges with space and environmental management.

🤔 Curiosity

Images capturing dawn in the vicinity of Mount Barney. Mount Maroon was tinged red by the first rays of sun (📷1). The shadows smartly departed from Mount Barney’s flank soon after (📷2). A heavy dew was accompanied by morning mist in the valley between us and Mount Argyle, serving to outline eucalyptus trees against the rising orb (📷3); mist also shrouded the trees lining the access road (📷4).

We enjoyed spotting wildlife on a morning walk from pitch. Cracticus nigrogularis | the pied butcherbird is a native songbird (📷1); the hooked bill tells of a carnivorous habit. Danaus petilia | the lesser wanderer butterfly is a frequent sight in Australia (📷2), as is Melanitis leda | the common evening brown—so named because it’s typically seen flying at dusk (📷3). Rhinella marina | the cane toad can grow up to 15cm, but this juvenile was hidden in grass (📷4); the invasive species was introduced to Australia in 1935 to control beetles, but they spread rapidly, poisoning native predators with their toxins and causing major ecological damage.

Here’s a sound clip from that morning walk:

Leaving camp mid-morning we again enjoyed views of prominent Mount Lindesay (📷1) before taking the Colins Gap on the B91 into NSW, then back into Queensland, arriving at Queen Mary Falls in Main Range National Park. The park is also part of the Gondwana Rainforests of Australia World Heritage Area (remnants of rainforest that once covered all of Australia). Queen Mary Falls are a 40m drop on Spring Creek, which forms the Condamine River’s upper reaches (📷2). This river in turn constitutes part of the headwaters of the Murray-Darling—one of Australia’s longest river systems—seen here from Carr’s Lookout, with The Head between Mount Superbus on the left and the foothills of Wilson’s Peak centre-frame (📷3). Riding in the Landcruiser (with permanent 4WD) we took Condamine River Road, making 14 river crossings to Killarney (📷4); the gravel 4WD-only road follows an old bullock wagon track once used to service riverside farms and for transporting logs to local mills.

Wildlife spotted around camp at Queen Mary Falls Caravan Park included Trichoglossus moluccanus | the rainbow lorikeet (📷1); Varanus varius | the lace goanna (📷2); Dacelo novaeguineae | the laughing kookaburra (📷3); and Notamacropus rufogriseus | the red-necked wallaby (📷4).

Also seen were Alisterus scapularis | the Australian king parrot (📷1); Eolophus roseicapilla | the galah, a.k.a. rose-breasted cockatoo (📷2); and Platycercus elegans | the crimson rosella (📷3). On the falls circuit walk we had several close encounters with Intellagama lesueurii | Australian water dragons (📷4).

New South Wales in the 4WD

Broom Head NSW, looking northward to Main Beach and Red Cliff (📷1); a view south from the same lookout (📷2). Beach access from pitch at Lake Arragan Beachside campground in Yuraygir National Park (📷3). Just around the corner, looking south towards Red Cliff (📷4).

Lake Arragan Beachside campground was inundated with resident Macropus giganteus | eastern grey kangaroo.

We next pitched in Richmond River Nature Reserve, South Ballina NSW. Vehicle access to the adjacent long surf beach is now disallowed, so we didn’t get the chance to experience driving in the Landcruiser on sand (we’re also conflicted about beach driving). But we did access the beach on foot (📷1&2), observing Thalasseus bergii | the great crested tern at the waters edge (📷3) and dolphin jumping for joy just offshore (📷4).

Light rain in the evening made a pleasant sound as it hit the shell of the rooftop tent:

What’s the deal with Anderson plugs?

Our Britz hire featured Anderson plugs. These are genderless heavy-duty DC electrical connectors, built to survive dirt, vibration and weather—making them ideal for use in vehicles and in other off-grid setups.
SB50 (Source: Anderson Power)
They’re very common in Australia, having become the de facto 12V connector standard. Although we’ve never personally seen them in NZ, UK or European campers, they can be found—albeit with less frequency. The SB50 variant is typical, conveying a current of ~50A; they’re much safer than cigarette sockets for high current. Applications include supply of vehicle power to a trailer or to a house battery (DC-DC charging); joining solar panels to a charge controller; powering winches and recovery gear; and providing external power outlets (e.g. to a fridge or air compressor).

🤔 Curiosity

More birds were seen at Richmond River Nature Reserve, South Ballina NSW. Ocyphaps lophotes | the crested pigeon is an endemic native with an erect crest (📷1). Entomyzon cyanotis | the blue-faced honeyeater is also known as the bananabird (📷2). Another look at the gorgeous Trichoglossus moluccanus | rainbow lorikeet, a common and rather vocal parrot (📷3). Not nearly as pretty, Threskiornis molucca | the Australian white ibis is colloquially known as the “bin chook” (📷4).

General insights from our short 4WD hire

In conversation with our caravanning friends before and during this trip we picked up a number of tips/ insights that we can put to use on future Australian away missions.

Planning:

• WikiCamps Australia is a popular app for finding overnight pitches
• Do your research (e.g. fuel stops) ahead of time and with reliable connectivity.

The rig/ equipment:

• You don’t want anything too heavy, or too top-heavy for 4WD tracks
• Consider carrying a portable jump starter, either for your own use, or to help others without having to mess around with your own vehicle
• If the desire is for self-sufficiency and you want a gas-free setup, it’s now possible to find 12V water heaters
• A 48V electrical system has advantages (see here and here).

Driving:

• Drive to the conditions and to your personal abilities
• Take a break at least every two hours (“Stop, Revive, Survive”)
• When travelling in convey a UHF CB (ultra-high frequency citizen band) radio enables (public) commentary/ direction sharing; channel 18 is used by vanners/ campers
• Beware that the risk to your paintwork from bush scratches is high
• If your vehicle has non-tinted glass you’ll need sunscreen on for driving or else risk sunburn
• Fooling heavy rain “If it’s flooded forget it”
• Stay with your vehicle in the event of a breakdown, as it will be more visible from the air than you are
• Take extra care at marked Yowie crossings.

On pitch:

• Aim to arrive on pitch before shadows get long and kangaroos may leap into your path
• Don’t leave your shoes on the ground; stomp on the toes or check carefully before putting them on (the Warrior’s roof tents have shoe bags)
• Don’t park under trees; gum trees have a habit of dropping branches without provocation (and beware of drop bears).

Next time we hire a 4WD our practical learning could encompass:

• Driving on sand tracks (noting that beach driving isn’t allowed in Britz hires) and adjusting tyre pressures
• Selecting appropriate gears
• Driving on dirt roads and managing bulldust
• Tackling inclines and declines
• Making water crossings
• Towing?

✳️ Tips and tricks

While not everything went to plan (B was ill on the morning of picking up the vehicle and thus wasn’t a named driver) we had a great time with our friends and are looking forward to further adventures on our next trip to Australia.
#2026 #4WD #4x4 #australia #camping #nationalPark #nature #newSouthWales #queensland #roadTrip #travel #unesco