Rice?

Interesting read from 2025 about Japan's rice crisis
apnews.com/article/japan-rice-…

One learns that Japan's minister for agriculture had to step down after callous remarks.
One also learns that rice 'disappeared in 2024' and 'no one knew where it went', so the govt opened the rice storage to keep prices down but was hindered by not having enough mills operating for turning the masses of stored, brown rice into white rice.

One learns that Japanese strongly prefer national crop, don't like imported rice.

And one learns that the average age of farmers is 69. ^^

Climate? Yeah, sort of. "the 2023 harvest was relatively poor because of hot weather and pests".

***

Looking at trade data cepii.fr/CEPII/fr/bdd_modele/b…
, Japan's rice exports in 2023 (most of the calendar year was pre-crop failure) were also over 3 times higher, with 240,000 tons compared to the usual 72,000 tons. So somewhere someone had a bad harvest in 2022 and was willing to pay higher prices in 2023 for Japanese crop than what wholesalers got in-country pre-crop failure?
2022 was a bad [rice] year for Pakistan and India with un-seasonally early heatwaveS and then the monster monsoon in July-August. India "banned" rice export in 2023 and 2024 because of that.
Well, "ban" doesn't mean ban, apparently.
Maybe existing contracts had to be met despite the ban so that rice exports only fell from 22 million tons in 2022 to 18 and 17 million tons in 2023 and 2024 respectively.

And something extraordinary in 2024 caused Vietnam to import 5 times as much rice than in 2023 and 2021 – and a whopping 50 times more than in 2019, 5.7 million tons in 2024 compared to 90,000 tons in 2019.
Filling national rice reserves probably. But maybe also bad harvests?

Thailand on the other hand exported 2mio tons more in 2024 than what was common in the years before.

The rice trade data really looks volatile in the years 2022ff, compared to all the years since 2008.

Quick global look at price-only – which says nothing about availability in tons to actually feed people: markets.businessinsider.com/co…

FAO data is … political ^^ so I take it with a grain of salt (or rice).
But it's concerning how, despite sharp increase in area planted with rice in 2023 and 2024, the produced harvest doesn't match that increase, see picture from fao.org/faostat/en/#data/QCL/v…

Could be just a glitch or a peculiarity of newly installed rice paddies which perhaps do not produce as much in their first years?
But could also be that the crop is at its maximum capacity and adding more area [in the same climate zone] doesn't lead to bigger harvests anymore.

#affordabilitycrisis #rice #Japan #Asia #climateChange

#datocurioso

¿Sabían que el budismo se divide principalmente en tres grandes vertientes o vehículos conocidos como Theravada, Mahayana y Vajrayana?

El budismo Theravada, o Doctrina de los Ancianos, se considera la rama más antigua y ortodoxa, conservando sus enseñanzas en el Canon Pali. Esta tradición predomina en países como Sri Lanka, Tailandia y Myanmar, enfocándose en la disciplina monástica para alcanzar la liberación individual. Por otro lado, el budismo Mahayana, o Gran Vehículo, surgió alrededor del siglo I a.C. y es la corriente mayoritaria en China, Japón y Corea. Esta rama introdujo la figura del Bodhisattva, quien posterga su propia entrada al nirvana para ayudar a todos los seres sintientes a liberarse del sufrimiento. El tercer vehículo, el Vajrayana o Vehículo del Diamante, es la forma predominante en el Tíbet y Mongolia; esta variante utiliza métodos que incluyen visualizaciones, mantras y rituales complejos con el objetivo de alcanzar la iluminación en una sola vida. Aunque comparten las Cuatro Nobles Verdades y el Noble Camino Óctuple como base común, estas variantes difieren en sus prácticas, lenguajes sagrados —usando principalmente el pali en el sur y el sánscrito en el norte— y en sus enfoques filosóficos sobre la naturaleza de la iluminación.

- A. Eldritch, Periodista, Locutor, podcaster y bloger del fediverso

Alt text via @altbot y @TeLoDescribot

#Budismo #Historia #Religión #Cultura #Asia

Nestled at the southern end of the Grand Canal, Hangzhou is a city where ancient culture and modern cuisine intertwine. Famed for its relaxing West Lake—immortalized in countless paintings and legends—this former imperial capital offers more than just picture-perfect scenery.

From misty tea plantations in the Longjing hills to the rhythmic hum of silk looms and the quiet grace of centuries-old temples, Hangzhou invites travellers to slow down, sip tea, and discover the soul of Jiangnan province.

Join me as I wander through its willow-lined paths, savour its culinary treasures, and uncover the stories that make Hangzhou a timeless jewel and a must-see addition to your explorations.

Table of Contents

There is one post for Hangzhou, but you will need more than one day to see all the sights. We loved Hangzhou so much that we stayed for 11 nights. But that was also because we came twice, as we did the four-day hike up the famous Huangshan (mountain) in between.

This post is in geographic order. Simply do as much as you can in one day and then continue on the next day.

Author Notes

Hangzhou Itinerary

Xī Hú West Lake – the most green space of any Chinese city

Gushan Solitary Hill – packed with quiet courtyards, pavilions, culture and history

Yin and Yang Concept – Chinese philosophy that has permeated all of East Asia

Autumn Moon Over a Calm Lake – one of the top ten views of West Lake

Yue Fei Temple – learn about the celebrated general, Yue Fei

War has Consequences – the Jin-Song War led to the fall of China

Sān Tán Yīn Yuè – sip Longjing Tea beside ponds lined with lilies and pavilions

Lingyin Si – Buddhist temple (G4.6) with magnificent rock carvings

Longjing Tea – very famous Dragon Well tea, tea terraces

Nine Creek Trail – people picking, weighing, and carrying tea

Liuheta Pagoda – Six Harmonies Pagoda, built in 970 CE to calm river flooding

Hangzhou Shopping – silk, stamp collecting, porcelain teacups, writing paper…

Silk Trade Network – Hangzhou was one of the largest ports for the Silk Trade Network with Japan and Southeast Asia

Dujinsheng Brocade Museum – watch traditional silk brocade weaving

Amazing Facts about Silk – hint: Silkworms are not worms

Silk Brocade – elaborate designs woven on a loom

Hangzhou Cuisine – Zhejiang (province) is one of China’s Eight Great Cuisines

Hangzhou Opera – soft, lyrical, female‑led Zhejiang opera

Final Comments

Trip Planning – Addendum: Should I go to Hangzhou or Shanghai?

Author & Photographer: George Mitchell

George’s Bio

Our advice is not influenced by affiliate links — we have none. Our itineraries, photos, and advice come from three years of travelling around the world, including three months in Japan. We are avid hikers, nature lovers, and photographers. We are students of art and architecture, culture and cuisine.

All the sights in this itinerary can be found on our custom China South Map. The points of interest are appended with their Google Maps Ratings, which range from G0 to G5.

Hangzhou Itinerary

On June 6th, we took the train from Nanchang to Hangzhou, the capital of Zhejiang Province. A young man who spoke some English came to our train car and talked to us during the whole trip. He worked in foreign trade in Nanchang for 2.5 years.

He got married a year ago to a librarian in Hangzhou. He was returning to see his wife for the first time after one year. He met his wife at the station – they didn’t even show any affection – they just held hands!

Bicycle Rickshaw, Suzhou, China

It was very late and buses only ran between 5:30 and 21:30 hrs. in those years. Despite his personal situation, he cared enough to arrange a rickshaw for us to the hotel, negotiate the price, and insisted on accompanying us to the hotel.

It took 30 minutes of pedalling. When we got to the hotel, the driver wanted double the asking price. Our new, young friend told him off. That was absolutely amazing hospitality from someone who was a stranger.

Bicycle rickshaws have now become a rarity in big cities, replaced by electric vehicles and strict traffic regulations. But rickshaws still exist in smaller cities and less-developed areas. Some cities keep them in tourist areas as a nostalgic or cultural experience.

Hangzhou Fandian

Hangzhou Fandian, Hangzhou, China

This palatial Hangzhou Fandian hotel was a mix of Western and Chinese architecture. We believe it is now called the Hangzhou Overseas Chinese Hotel (杭州华侨饭店), located along West Lake. It had carved wood mouldings and superb carpeting. The quiet hotel came with very pleasant staff. Tea was provided in the morning.

Xī Hú West Lake

View from Baochu Pagoda, West Lake, Hangzhou, 69-23

Unlike many rapidly modernizing Chinese cities, Hangzhou remains rich in verdant green spaces and shimmering blue water. Hangzhou reminds us of Nara (Japan) because much of the sightseeing is done in the vast green space area, mostly free from cars and traffic.

Boy Reading, West Lake, Hangzhou

At its heart lies Xī Hú (West Lake G4.7), celebrated for its classical gardens, poetic vistas, and deep cultural heritage. This UNESCO site is celebrated for its harmony between nature and culture. The citizens take advantage of this green space to relax.

Erhu (Violin)

Playing Erhu, West Lake, Hangzhou

The instrument in our photo is an erhu (二胡), often called a Chinese violin by Westerners. It has only two (er in Pinyin) strings, tuned a fifth apart (usually the keys D and A). The man played this traditional Chinese bowed instrument vertically, resting it on his lap. He pressed the strings with his left hand and bowed with his right hand — but the bow was threaded between the strings.

What a special treat we had! The sound box is small and often covered with python skin, producing a mellow, expressive tone. This was one of the most evocative experiences — enjoying the ancient temples and natural scenery while listening to atmospheric music. For example of the music, run the Erhu soundtrack.

Gushan Solitary Hill

Bridge & Willows, Gushan, Hangzhou 69-20
As we walked along the north shore of West Lake, we paused often to take in some of the top Ten Scenes of West Lake. Both China and Japan love “Top Lists”. They have centuries‑old traditions of cataloguing scenic or culturally important places into fixed-number sets. These weren’t created for entertainment — they were aesthetic systems.

The [strong][em]Ten Scenes of West Lake[/em][/strong] have inspired countless poets, artists, and scholars throughout Chinese history. They represent not only the natural beauty but also the deep cultural connotations. The scenes are often depicted in traditional Chinese paintings and poetry, symbolizing the harmonious relationship between nature and people. This is a persistent theme in both Daoist philosophy and Shanshui art and landscape design.

Bamboo groves and graceful weeping willows lined the water’s edge and swayed gently in the breeze. Water reflections and distant hills added to the charm as we crossed the Bai Causeway, named Jindai Bridge (G4.5) on Google Maps.

This led to Gushan (孤山, “Solitary Hill”), packed with quiet courtyards, pavilions, culture and history. Gushan (G5.0) has been a cultural retreat since at least the Tang Dynasty, and is linked to famous poets, monks, and emperors.

West Lake, Hangzhou

Across the lake was the white Baochu Pagoda (G4.5). Climbing the stairs to the top, the pagoda wasn’t particularly interesting up close—mostly plain brick and fairly recent. But it offered a good aerial view of the lake to the southwest (photo above). A trail continued beyond, inviting further exploration.

Pavilion for Releasing Cranes, West Lake, Hangzhou, 69-19

We walked to the north side of Gushan to photograph the Pavilion for Releasing Cranes (G4.0). It is marked 放鹤亭 (Fanghe Ting) on Google Maps. The pavilion was built to honour Lin Hejing, a Northern Song Dynasty poet who lived in seclusion on Gushan. He became legendary for his life of quiet purity — tending plum blossoms and raising cranes.

The act of releasing cranes appears throughout Chinese poetry and painting as a metaphor for letting go of worldly concerns, spiritual freedom, and harmony with nature.

Lion Balustrade, West Lake, Hangzhou

This is not a simple guardrail. It is adorned with stone lions; this is significant. Lions (shíshī) are protectors of sacred or culturally important spaces. The Lion Balustrade elevates the pavilion into a semi‑sacred space, a reminder of the lake’s imperial and spiritual heritage.

Because West Lake is surrounded by major Buddhist sites, the lion also carries a Buddhist semantic layer: The Lion’s Roar is a powerful and fearless proclamation of the Dharma.

This scene also symbolizes the yin–yang balance of Daoism. Yin-Yang is a classic Chinese landscape design principle. Yin (water) symbolizes softness, adaptability, flow and change. West Lake’s beauty is often described as soft, feminine, and lyrical. Yang (lion) symbolizes strength, stability and permanence. Lions are auspicious creatures that ward off misfortune.

Yin and Yang Concept

Yin and Yang Symbol Public Domain

Daoism is a Chinese philosophy that has permeated all of East Asia. Just look at the Yin-Yang symbol embedded in the South Korean flag!

The Yin and Yang concept asserts the existence of cosmic principles or forces that are opposites but complementary. These forces interact, interconnect, support and perpetuate each other. Together they form a dynamic system in which the whole is greater than the parts. It is symbolized by the egg diagram above.

It is based on the principle of dualism. Yin (black) symbolizes the egg yolk, darkness, water, earth, and female characteristics. Yang (white) symbolizes egg white, sun, light, mountains, heaven, and male characteristics. Together, they express the dynamic balance of opposites in nature and life.

Autumn Moon Over a Calm Lake

Carved Door, Gushan, West Lake, Hangzhou, 66-36

This central door panel looks like a Zhou Dynasty niuzhong — a clapperless ritual bell (770–256 BC) used in ancient Chinese ceremonies. Zhou bells were used in ritual music during state ceremonies and Confucian rites. Displaying one evokes order, harmony, and reverence — key Confucian ideals.

The lower section includes chrysanthemums, a symbol of autumn and resilience in Chinese art. Gushan is a cultural hub known for its calligraphy, painting, and historical relics. It signals that the space is cultured, refined, and respectful of tradition.

The best vantage point was between two pagoda‑style pavilions—one of them the well‑known Autumn Moon Over a Calm Lake (originally named 平湖秋月, Píng Hú Qiū Yuè in Google Maps).

This is one of the [strong][em][strong][em]Ten Scenes of West Lake[/em][/strong][/em][/strong]. It is marked as Yuebo Pavilion on Google Maps. Everywhere we looked, people were taking photos. Professional photographers were busy too, offering portrait sessions against the shimmering backdrop.

Yue Fei Temple

Yue Fei Temple, Hangzhou, China

Inside the main hall of the Yue Fei Temple (G4,4) sat a striking statue: a purple‑robed figure. But it is not a deity. This was Yue Fei (1103–1142), a celebrated general. He commanded Song Dynasty forces against the Jin Dynasty during the Jin–Song Wars (1125–1234).

The colour purple has long been associated with loyalty, righteousness, and moral authority — all qualities attributed to Yue Fei. In Chinese culture, purple is a royal colour, but not imperial.

Yellow was historically reserved for the emperor alone. This is why the emperor’s robes were yellow, and why the Forbidden City and imperial temples are covered with yellow roof tiles. Though to us they looked more like orange.

Yue Fei’s victories brought the possibility of reclaiming the northern territories of the Song Dynasty lost to the Jin. But his success clashed with the political priorities of Qin Hui of the Southern Song court. Under pressure to negotiate peace, Qin Hui executed Yue Fei in 1142 on fabricated charges. His death became one of the dynasty’s most infamous betrayals.

War has Consequences

This history may seem meaningless to you. What is significant about these wars is that they weakened both sides. They allowed the Mongols to defeat and absorb the Jin Dynasty in 1205 and conquer the Song Dynasty in 1276.

This created the Yuan Dynasty, the first foreign-controlled (Mongol-led) dynasty of China. This was the second great era of the Silk Trade Routes. This was the era that Marco Polo visited. So this had a direct impact on all Western cultures.

Tomb Gate, Yue Fei Temple, Hangzhou

In the southwest corner of the complex, a small bridge crossed a green, algae‑covered pool and led to an elegant gate. Beyond it stood a row of statues and a burial mound marking the general’s tomb. By 1279, Yue Fei was widely seen as a folk hero and a symbol of loyalty and patriotism.

Recent History

The site has endured its own turbulence: during the Cultural Revolution, Red Guards ransacked Yue Fei’s tomb, leaving lasting scars on the memorial.

Baby, Yue Fei Temple, Hangzhou

This is our favourite photo of the quintessential Chinese baby with chubby cheeks. Don’t you just feel like squeezing them! Later that day, we met Jenny, a student of traditional Chinese medicine from Taiyuan. She joined us for dinner at Tien Wai Tien, adding another warm and unexpected human connection to a day steeped in history.

Hangzhou Botanical Gardens

Further past Yue Fei Temple lies the Hangzhou Botanical Garden – a large, scenic park, known for its diverse plant collections, tranquil landscapes, and proximity to Zhejiang University.

It is also the site of Shan Wai Shan (山外山), a well-known restaurant situated at 8 Yuquan Road. It offers traditional Hangzhou and South China cuisine in a serene, garden-like setting.

Hú Pàn Jū Teahouse (湖畔居茶楼) was one of the most famous lakeside teahouses (but not as esteemed today at G3.0) in the same general area as Shan Wai Shan. We enjoyed sitting in the nice wicker chairs, sipping Longjing tea with constant refills.

[strong]Sān Tán Yīn Yuè[/strong]

We took the pleasant boat ride (CNY 70) to Xiaoyingzhou, a man‑made island built in the Ming Dynasty. This is the site of the famous pavilion, Sān Tán Yīn Yuè (G4.5). Its name, 三潭印月, translates as Three Pools Mirroring the Moon.

Window Frame, San Tan Yin Yue, West Lake, Hangzhou

Sān Tán Yīn Yuè is famous for willow-lined paths, curving causeways, lotus ponds, and classical pavilions. The view from Woxinxiangyin Pavilion is the exact image printed on the back of China’s one‑yuan note.

San Tan Yin Yue, West Lake, Hangzhou

Three Pools Mirroring the Moon is one of West Lake’s most iconic ten scenic spots. The island’s interior pools were filled with lotus or water lilies—though not in bloom, their broad leaves still created a serene, textured landscape. On the southern side stood a large green pavilion where we sipped Longjing Tea, perfectly suited to the setting.

Mid Island Pavilion, West Lake, Hangzhou, 69-10

Just south of the island, three tiny stone pagodas rose from the water. We stopped briefly at a small restaurant for a popsicle. We passed the mid‑lake pavilion with its striking orange‑tiled roof as we headed home.

Lingyin Si Temple

Bus Y2, 7, or 27: from Wulin Square, Wulinmen or Hubin to Lingyin Station; Fare ¥2–3; Travel Time: 30–40 minutes
Bus Y6: from Hangzhou East Railway Station to Lingyin Temple.

Lingyin Si Exterior, Hangzhou,
CC BY-SA (Wikimedia) Edited

Lingyin Si (靈隱寺) is a Buddhist temple (G4.6) with magnificent grotto rock carvings. It is located west of Xī Hú (West Lake). Lingyin Si literally means Temple (si) of the Soul’s Retreat.

It was founded in 328 CE during the Jin Dynasty by an Indian monk named Huili. During the Southern Song Dynasty, the monastery was regarded as one of the ten most important temples of the Chan sect. Chan is now better known by its Japanese name, Zen!

Sutra Pagoda

Pagoda, Lingyin Si, Hangzhou, China

The pagoda-like structures house sutra relics brought back by Huili. The pagodas are reliquaries, one of the purposes of the original stupa architectural form. The other purpose is to house the ashes of holy men. Elder Li’s Pagoda near the entrance houses the ashes of Huili.

Lingyin Si Interior, Hangzhou

There was a large Buddha inside the hall. But the gilded altar, bronze burner, and gold-painted columns were more interesting.

Four Heavenly Kings

Vaiśravaṇa, Lingyin Si, Hangzhou,
CC BY-SA (Wikimedia) Edited

The Hall of the Heavenly Kings (天王殿, Tiānwáng Diàn) houses large statues of the Four Heavenly Kings (G4.5). They are Guardians of the Buddhist Dharma (teachings) – protecting the world from negative influences and maintaining harmony in the universe through control of the cardinal directions — North, East, West, and South.

Vaiśravaṇa (Sanskrit for “Great Fame”) is the name of the chief king. Vaiśravaṇa is known as Duōwén Tiān in China or Bishamonten in Japan. He is the Guardian of the North and the leader of the yakṣas and rākṣasas. But why are there spirits in a non-theistic religion?

When the Chinese adopted Buddhism, they also accepted all the symbolism, mythology, and Indian literature that came with it. The Buddhists reinterpreted the animistic spirits, gods and even demons as protectors of the Buddha. They make sure that evil spirits don’t go through the gates and into the temple.

You would be wrong if you just think this is a colourful decorative statue; it is full of intentional symbolism. Vaiśravaṇa wears armour and a crown, showing his status as a celestial warrior-king. Shoulder flames symbolize his power and authority.

His right hand holds a spear or halberd, but it is topped by a miniature pagoda, not a blade. This is not a weapon for violence but a symbol of spiritual authority and wealth. It represents Vaiśravaṇa’s role as the guardian of the North and protector of the Dharma.

Carved Window, Lingyin Si, Hangzhou

The northwest circular window had a carving with birds against green trees outside. Cranes are common in Chan Buddhist temples because they symbolize transcendence and spiritual purity. Circular openings are linked to transcendence beyond the mundane world

Mahavira Hall, Lingyin Si, Hangzhou,
CC BY-SA (Wikimedia) Edited

Mahavira Hall (G4.5), with its 3-tiered roof, was photogenic but obstructed by too many trees. Two old-looking white pagodas with bas-relief stood on each side.

Many people were there, but some were more interested in us than in the temple. A priest was lighting joss sticks.

Feilai Feng Grottoes

Rock Carvings, Feilai Feng Grottoes, Hangzhou,
CC BY-SA (Wikimedia) Edited

Across the stream were many carvings directly into the limestone cliff face. These carvings date from the Five Dynasties to Song and Yuan periods (10th–14th centuries). It was an extraordinary open‑air gallery of early Chinese Buddhist art.

Plump Budai, Feilai Feng Grottoes, Hangzhou

Crowds gathered around what many tourists call the “Laughing Buddha”. Wrong! This carving depicts Budai (also known as Hotei in Japan), a popular historical figure often mistaken for the Buddha.

Budai was a real Chinese monk who lived during the Later Liang Dynasty (d. 917 CE). The joyful expression, exposed belly, and relaxed posture are classic Budai traits. He symbolizes abundance, joy, and generosity. The surrounding figures—likely monks or disciples—highlight his role as a revered spiritual teacher.

His name means “Cloth Sack,” referring to the bag he always carried (look at his left hand). Known for his cheerful demeanour, Budai wandered from town to town, spreading joy, playing with children, and offering small gifts from his bag. He is considered an incarnation of Maitreya, the future Buddha.

Naughty Tourist sitting on Bodhisattva Rock Carving, Feilai Feng Grottoes, Hangzhou

This carving appears to represent a bodhisattva — likely Avalokiteshvara (Guanyin or Kannon in Japan) — rather than the historical Buddha. The figure sits in a relaxed, almost casual posture with one leg extended, a pose commonly associated with bodhisattvas who stay in the world to help sentient beings.

The elaborate adornments on the torso and head further distinguish the figure from the simplicity of monastic imagery, emphasizing divine grace rather than renunciation. Unfortunately, some Chinese did not respect the need to preserve these monuments.

Naughty Tourist Climbing Rock Carvings,
Feilai Feng Grottoes, Hangzhou

The temple complex surrounding the grottoes has endured turbulent times. During the Cultural Revolution, the grounds suffered extensive damage at the hands of the Red Guards. A planned full destruction of the temple in 1966 was narrowly averted when university students barricaded the halls, preserving at least part of this historic site.

But what the Red Guards couldn’t do, these tourists tried hard to continue. This was many years ago. Hopefully, this practice is now discontinued.

Longjing Tea

Bus 27: for several stops, then climb the stairs.

Longjing Dragon Well, Hangzhou

Longjing (or Dragon Well) is a very famous tea. In the 17th century, Emperor Kangxi granted the tea the status of Gòngchá. The word Gòng means contribution or tribute, and Chá (茶) means tea. This means the province had to give the tribute tea for free to the emperor. Today, 250 g of Longjing sells for CAD 20-40 on Amazon (brands like Oriarm, FullChea and Valley of Tea Dragon Well).

We looked at the well below the tiled dragon that gave the name to the tea. Pure water is important for producing an excellent tea. Dragons are the protectors of water. In Asia, the dragon (naga) is a deity linked with water. Since rain is critical to agriculture, the dragon symbolizes abundance. Dragons are the ultimate symbol of the emperor in Chinese culture.

Longjing is a green tea that is pan‑roasted. It has a toasted chestnut aroma and a smooth, creamy texture. We stopped to have this floral and delicate tea.

Longjing Tea Terraces, Hangzhou,
CC BY-SA (Wikimedia) Edited

We walked up the path behind the well. Soon, we came out of the forest to hillside tea terraces and views.

We continued through an overgrown path to emerge on a ridge with open views all around, especially into the valley. It started to rain, so we had to return.

Nine Creek Trail

Nine Creek Hamlet, Hangzhou, China

Our guidebook told us the road down from Longjing Well was the best part of a visit to Hangzhou, so we came here again to do the Nine Creek Hamlet walk (G4.6).

We passed very old buildings, all with broken white plaster, some with wood carving. We saw typical village life — women washing vegetables in the creek, children playing with boats, and women washing clothes or shoes. Everything was done in the same water in 1982.

Nine Creek Road, Hangzhou

The trail continued gently downhill on a cobblestone track. with flat stone blocks laid across the many streams for easy crossing. Dense forest gave way to tea plantations.

Tea Pickers Filling Baskets, Nine Creek Road, Hangzhou,

Many women were picking, weighing, and carrying tea. Others stopped for a food break. I took some photos.

Shy Tea Picker, Nine Creek Road, Hangzhou

Then they wanted me to take a separate photo of each woman. Some were shy. They gave us their Chinese addresses.

Smiling Tea Picker, Nine Creek Road, Hangzhou

They even suggested that they pretend they were picking the tea leaves. I don’t remember how we communicated with them. But it almost seemed like they had contact with tourists before.

Porters Carrying Tea Baskets, Nine Creek Road, Hangzhou

Along the road, we saw many Tiāofū — literally “carrying man” — who transport goods using a shoulder pole. In this case, the men were carrying the tea leaves. Luókuāng is a large, round bamboo basket used for collecting and transporting tea leaves. The baskets needed to be large but lightweight. Each loaded basket weighed 4.5–9 kg (10–20 lbs)!

P.S.: Do you know where the abbreviation lbs comes from? It originated from the Latin word libra, meaning scales! The full Latin phrase was libra pondo — a pound by weight. It was shortened in English to pounds.

3 Men Walking Nine Creek Road, Hangzhou

We stopped a woman pulling a cart and got three delicious, ripe red tomatoes. We passed a village at the end with rice paddies and buffaloes.

Dumpling Makers, Nine Creek Hamlet, 69-24

At Nine Creek Hamlet, we stopped for lunch and to our surprise, the food was very good. We had three dishes plus tea for CNY 3.50. The rest of the road was paved. It lacked the same atmosphere.

Liuheta Pagoda

Metro Line 1: Wulin Sq to Xianghu CNY 2-9
+ Bus: 4, 287, or 308 to Liuheta Station: Total 45 mins.

Liuheta Pagoda, Hangzhou

Liuheta (六和塔, Six Harmonies Pagoda G4.3) was originally built in the Northern Song Dynasty (970 CE) to calm the tidal bore of the Qiantang River. The river often floods during high tides.

In feng shui (literally “wind-water”), water is the most powerful and unpredictable force, symbolizing wealth, movement, and danger. Placing a 13-story, stable pagoda at a river bend is a classic feng shui practice. It anchors turbulent water energy by stabilizing the qi flow along the river. It protects nearby settlements.

The pagoda is octagonal, matching the Bagua, the core symbol of feng shui used to map energy fields.

Its name, Liuhe, literally means “Six Harmonies”; in other words, the four cardinal directions, the zenith, and the nadir. This is a cosmological concept of universal harmony, aligning perfectly with feng shui’s goal of balancing heaven, earth, and humanity.

Hangzhou Shopping

Post Office & Philatelic Store

Summer Palace Stamp 1956, China

This is just one of a set of stamps we bought, displaying Beijing’s ancient architectural attractions – this one is the Summer Palace from the Qing Dynasty. These stamps, dating from 1956, use exquisite engraving and printmaking techniques.

The main hobby in China is stamp collecting! There were tens of Chinese people either looking or buying stamps. Here, it paid to be foreigners as we were given attention first.

Silk Brocade Stamp Album, China

Now we understand why we could easily buy many decades-old commemorative stamps at the post office. We even bought a beautiful silk brocade-covered stamp album with a protective sleeve! Note the red panda on the cover. The album has typical cardstock pages with polyester sleeves to hold the stamps. This was an incredible buy.

Crafts

Girl Studying, 3rd Floor Dept Store, Hangzhou

Hangzhou is a great place to look at or buy crafts and gifts. For school kids, it was a place to study. There are many silk shops on Hubin Lu just north of Jiefang. There were tourist shops with high-quality silk and other crafts from the province of Zhejiang.

Dragon Teacups on Silk Brocade Tablecloth from Hangzhou

We bought our huge, embroidered silk tablecloth and a set of covered porcelain teacups with dragons. Other things to look for were a beautiful writing paper pad with tiny Chinese prints in the right-hand corner, and Qingdao beer from Shantung Province. Especially good were the White Rabbit candies made with milk.

Silk Trade Network

Silk Routes Map 1st Century CE, Kaidor
Hangzhou was one of the critical hubs of the Silk Trade Network, serving as both a production center for silk and a port city that connected China to the wider world. Its role was not peripheral—it was a keystone in the eastern terminus of the Silk Roads, especially during the Tang and Song dynasties.

Hangzhou earned the title “House of Silk” because sericulture in the region dates back over 4,700 years, to the Neolithic Liangzhu culture. This deep tradition made it a natural center for the silk trade.

When Hangzhou became the capital of the Southern Song Dynasty (1127–1279), it was transformed into one of the world’s largest cities, with over one million inhabitants. This made it a bustling hub for merchants, artisans, and foreign traders.

Located on the East China Sea, Hangzhou became one of China’s largest ports as early as the Three Kingdoms Period (220–280 CE). Its maritime connections allowed goods to flow not only inland but across Asia and beyond.

The city wasn’t just about commerce. It became a melting pot of religions, art, and ideas, as travellers from across Eurasia brought influences that shaped Hangzhou’s cosmopolitan identity.

Silk was the star commodity, but Hangzhou also exported tea, porcelain, and lacquerware, all highly prized in Central Asia, the Middle East, and Europe. Exotic goods like spices, precious stones, and textiles from India, Persia, and Arabia flowed into Hangzhou, enriching local markets and culture.

Marco Polo described Hangzhou as “the City of Heaven, the most beautiful and magnificent in the world,” underscoring its reputation as a jewel of the Silk Roads.

Dujinsheng Brocade Museum

Cranes in the Pines, Silk Brocade, Hangzhou

Our diary called it the Hangzhou Silk Brocade Factory, but there is no such place on Google Maps. AI says that it is almost certainly the Dujinsheng Silk Weaving Factory (杜锦生丝织厂) today. The factory, founded in 1922, is famous for Hangzhou brocade. The Dujinsheng Silk Brocade Museum was later built inside this same factory complex.

The museum is dedicated to brocade weaving, with exhibits, looms, and demonstrations. We observed traditional brocade weaving and learned about the craftsmanship behind it. Here we bought some of the best silk artifacts.

Amazing Facts about Silk

Mulberry Leaves filled with Silkworms

• Silk production began over 5,000 years ago in China.
• Silkworms are caterpillars — not worms. They are the larval stage of the silk moth Bombyx mori.
• Silkworms only eat mulberry leaves.
• Silkworms secrete liquid silk from glands near their mouths, which hardens into a filament when exposed to air.
• Silkworms spin their cocoons from one continuous filament, which can stretch nearly a full kilometre.
• From 2640 BC until ca. 200 BC, only the imperial family and nobility were allowed to wear silk.
• The secrets of sericulture were hidden from the West on pain of death for centuries, but were given freely to its neighbours, Goryeo (Korea) and Japan.

Silk Brocade

Silk Brocade is a fabric with elaborate designs woven on a loom. It produces a fabric with a raised floral or figured design.

A guide brought us to one shop where silk thread was twisted by automatic machines onto spools. She brought us to another shop where brocade was woven by programmed machines. She pointed out the English language signs.

Chinese Silk Tablecloth, Hangzhou Brocade Factory

There were some nice things in the store at the same prices as elsewhere — wall hangings, tablecloths, and pillowcases with peacocks.

Hangzhou Cuisine

It is not every place that one of the top attractions is the cuisine. Hangzhou is located in the province of Zhejiang, which is widely regarded as one of China’s [strong][em]Eight Great Cuisines[/em][/strong]. Zhejiang places an emphasis on freshness, seasonal ingredients, and subtle flavours.

I am not going to recommend names of restaurants, as the food scene has changed since our trip. As always, use the Google Map rating to decide how great a restaurant is. These are the ones recommended by AI for authentic Zhejiang cuisine, appended by their very high Google Map ratings:

— Jiexianglou (G4.9),
— Grandma’s Home (G4.9),
— Green Tea Restaurant (G4.7),
— Grandma’s Kitchen (G4.6), and
— Dongyishun (G4.5)

DongPo Pork, Hangzhou,
CC BY-SA (Wikimedia) Edited

Dongpo Pork is made from pork belly that is pan‑fried and then slow‑braised (“red‑cooked”). The buttery layers of fat and lean meat melt in your mouth. The result is tender, juicy meat with a fragrant Shaoxing wine and soy aroma.

Shaoxing Wine (shàoxīngjiǔ) is made from glutinous rice, water, and a small amount of wheat-based yeast. It has a dark amber colour and a mildly sweet, fragrant aroma. One of the oldest forms of rice wine, it dates back over 2000 years.
Lóngjǐng Xiārén Prawns, Hangzhou,
CC BY-SA (Wikimedia) Edited
We loved the delicate taste of Lóngjǐng Xiārén (龙井虾仁) — Shrimp with Longjing Tea. It is one of Hangzhou’s most iconic dishes, combining tender white shrimp with the delicate aroma of Longjing tea. The dish is stir-fried over extreme heat with boiling water infused with Longjing tea and Shaoxing (rice) wine.

Māo’ěrduo tāngmiàn (猫耳朵汤面) — we loved Cat’s Ears Noodle Soup so much, we had it a few times. Cat’s ears are handmade by cutting the dough into small cubes and pressing each piece with a finger or chopstick, so it curls into a cupped shape. The rustic dish is slightly chewy from the ham, shrimp and greens added to the noodles.

Suan Cai pork stew, Hangzhou, CC BY-SA (Wikimedia) Edited

We loved the Suān Cài(酸菜) soup. Suān Cài is a traditional Chinese fermented vegetable, usually made from napa cabbage or mustard greens. It is used to make classic soups like Suān Cài Egg Soup with ginger and scallions. This tangy and savoury dish is more associated with northern and southwestern China.

We loved the Three Fresh Delicacies (三鲜). This dish had vegetables, ham, shrimp, and pork on a huge 15” platter.

West Lake Eel with Noodles (西湖鳝丝面) is a classic Hangzhou noodle dish featuring freshwater eel from the West Lake. This dish is rich, savoury, and aromatic with a soy‑wine glaze. The handmade noodles absorb the sauce beautifully.

West Lake Vinegar Fish, Hangzhou, CC BY-SA (Wikimedia) Edited

West Lake Vinegar Fish melted in our mouths. We loved it so much we had it a couple of times. It is a traditional Hangzhou dish made from whole carp that is poached and then covered with a sweet‑and‑sour vinegar glaze. It is considered one of the signature dishes of Zhejiang cuisine. The dish is sweet and sour — from the sugar and vinegar glaze. The fish is so tender and delicate. The subtle sauce and slight crab flavour are hallmarks of this dish.

Other traditional dishes of Zhejiang are:

• Cong Bao Hui (葱包烩) — flaky and aromatic, scallion-stuffed pancakes;
• Deep‑Fried Tofu Skin Rings (油炸豆腐皮圈) — crunchy, savoury snack made from tofu skin;
• Pian’er Chuan (片儿川) — noodles with bamboo shoots, pickled vegetables, and pork slices;
• Zhi Wei Xiao Long (知味小笼) — Hangzhou small steamed buns;

Hangzhou Opera

Victory Theatre, 279 Yan’an Rd

We got very good tickets from CITS at the hotel for the opera. Victory Theatre still hosts Yue Opera (越剧) and other stage performances. Yue Opera is a soft, lyrical, female‑led Zhejiang opera.

It was a very interesting story of man’s greed for power. There was a lot of killing. At the end, as he grasped for ultimate power, he was killed by the heroine. This was a story of corruption and intrigue — quite different from the more famous operas based on famous romantic stories like Butterfly Lovers, Peacock Flies Southeast, and Dream of the Red Chamber.

No drinks were served during intermission — just popsicles! It was very hot! The performance ended at 22:30 hrs, and no buses were running, so we had to walk home (to our hotel). It was nice and quiet. Young couples were sitting on every bench!

Other Posts on China

Below are the detailed posts that describe aspects of China. Read the Demystifying the Chinese Language post to learn how to pronounce Mandarin (pinyin) names.

Chengde Should Be on Your Travel Bucket List

Myths & Mysteries of the Great Wall

3 Hidden Gems of Chengdu

From Past to Pagoda: Chinese Gems

Mind-Blowing Facts About China

Xi’an: Treasures That Transformed China

Final Comments

Wander through its willow-lined paths, savour its culinary treasures, and uncover the stories that make Hangzhou a timeless jewel and a must-see addition to your explorations.

Surprising Fact for Today

When Marco Polo visited Hangzhou in the 13th century, he called it “the finest and most splendid city in the world”. For more surprising facts, read Mind-Blowing Facts About China That Will Change Your View.

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Trip Planning

The next sections will help you plan and tailor the itinerary for your trip.

Resources

China South Map, our custom Google map

Should I go to Hangzhou or Shanghai?

Hangzhou is a much better city to visit. Busy Shanghai, with 30.5 million people, is a global megacity with nonstop traffic, nightlife, and dense urban energy. Hangzhou, with 12.6 million people, is significantly quieter than Shanghai. This is especially true since most of the tourist sights are along Xī Hú (West Lake) or in natural surroundings to the southwest.

Hangzhou is a bit less polluted city with an AQI of 94 compared to Shanghai with 106. The worst months are December to February (winter) due to temperature inversions and increased heating. These cities still burn coal for energy.

Hangzhou vs. Shanghai Accommodation

Hangzhou is a much better value place to visit than Shanghai. Hangzhou is about 40 to 150% cheaper, as can be seen by the price comparison table below. Prices are given in Chinese Yuan (CNY or ¥) per night.

When is the best time to visit [strong]China?[/strong]

The best time to visit China is during spring (April–May) and autumn (September–October), when the weather is mild. Note that the weather in mountain regions is always cooler.

Hangzhou Weather

The average elevation in Hangzhou is 42 m (138 ft). Also note that the temperature shown is the average high temperature for several months. The transitional months will be cooler/warmer.

Is there overtourism in China?

Yes — Over-tourism and overcrowding are increasingly pressing issues in China, especially during peak travel periods like Golden Week and major holidays. Iconic destinations like the Great Wall, Beijing’s Happy Valley amusement park, and other cultural landmarks are often overwhelmed by crowds during holidays. Over 10 million tourists visit the Badaling section of the Great Wall each year. Aging infrastructure and limited crowd control measures are struggling to keep pace with demand.

The vast majority of tourism is domestic, ca. 90%! Domestic tourism is the primary driver of China’s travel economy, supported by a large middle class and strong internal mobility. All cities are overcrowded, even without tourism.

[strong][strong]Transportation[/strong][/strong]

We travelled mainly by train but sometimes by bus or boat. Use the Rome2Rio or Trip.com app if you are planning local trips within or to China.

Rental Cars

China does NOT recognize International Driving Permits (IDPs). You can’t drive with just your foreign license. To legally drive, you need a Chinese driver’s license — either a temporary permit or a full license. Driving in China can be intense: traffic, signage, and parking systems are often unfamiliar. Many payments (e.g., tolls, parking) need QR code apps like Alipay or WeChat Pay.

Trains

The two most popular Chinese train booking apps are the official 12306.cn app (limited English) and the international-friendly Trip.com (multi-lingual). Bullet trains offer comfortable seating, digital ticketing, and English signage on most major routes.

Other Modes of Travel

Buses connect nearly every city, town, and village, often reaching places trains don’t. Buses are essential in rural and mountainous regions, offering affordable access to heritage towns and scenic routes. Public transit and taxis are cheap, efficient, and widely recommended for short-term visitors.

Travel Times and Distances

Here are some road and high-speed train distances and travel times for this blog.

Other Posts You May Like

Travel Tips and Culture Guides

Here are some additional posts on China’s culture. While the posts on Buddhism were written about other countries, the terms and concepts are basically the same throughout the world.

Cracking the Code: Demystifying Chinese

From Ideas To Inventions: Dive Into Dynasties

Guide to Thai Buddhism

Buddhist Terms & Symbolism

Google Maps Ratings

Google Maps provides a rating from 0 to 5 for all sights, hotels, and restaurants (but not cities). All our recommendations are accompanied by a rating (prefixed with a G) from Google Maps. Google Ratings are based on feedback from locals as well as tourists. They are much more reliable than travel booking websites or tourist anecdotes. We consider a score of 4 to 4.39 to be Very Good and 4.4 to 5 to be Excellent.

All photos and text © Terra Encounters
except where noted CC BY-SA (Creative Commons Wikipedia)
Asia Encounters is a subsidiary of Terra Encounters

Why Visit Hokkaido

Hokkaido is a large island located north of Honshu. Here is a place where you can immerse yourself in Japanese nature, culture and cuisine. It is also the best place in Japan to get away from over-tourism. We did not even bother going to Sapporo.

Hokkaido is a nature lover’s dream with its volcanoes and lakes, hot springs and hikes. We spent 14 days in Hokkaido. We have divided our trip into two posts: one for northeast Hokkaido and this post for southwest Hokkaido. Each one takes a week.

Author & Photographer: George Mitchell

George’s Bio

Our advice is not influenced by affiliate links — we have none. Our itineraries, photos, and advice come from three years of travelling around the world, including three months in Japan. We are avid hikers, nature lovers, and photographers. We are students of art and architecture, culture and cuisine.

All the sights in this itinerary can be found on our custom Japan Hokkaido Google Map. The points of interest are appended with their Google Maps Ratings, which range from G0 to G5.

Japanese Names

Name suffixes show the type of building. So “ji”, “dera” or “tera” is a generic Buddhist temple. The suffix “in” is a Buddhist temple in a garden, especially a Zen temple. For more useful information, see the Guide to the Japanese Language.

Generally, I write the names of sights in Japanese (Romaji) because asking for directions with English names will be futile. Writing Kōmyō-ji Temple is redundant, but sometimes I add “temple” for those readers who missed this section.

Southwest Hokkaido

Mashū-ko Wintertime, CC BY SA Wikipedia

On October 3rd, we left Sounkyo Gorge to explore southwest Hokkaido. This is one region in Japan where a rental car would let you easily see all the sights. We had headed to Hokkaido right away to hike before it got too cold or snowy. Our northernmost destination, Sounkyo Gorge, is at the same latitude as Toronto, Canada.

Kono Mitsuo

George & Dr. Mitsuo Kono, Aso-san, Kyushu

Dr. Mitsuo Kono is a renowned Japanese physicist celebrated for his pioneering work in plasma physics and mathematical social sciences. Mitsuo is a Professor Emeritus at Chuo University.

Basalt Columns, Sounkyo Gorge, Daisetsuzan NP

We met Mitsuo at Sounkyo Gorge. He had gone to Sapporo for a physics conference. We had long conversations with Mitsuo about various aspects of Japanese culture. While many things have changed over the years, some things stay the same.

Education and Research

Mitsuo got a research grant from the British Council. He found it difficult when he lived in England for three years. He was taken aback when colleagues said his research was wrong. He felt his personality was attacked.

In Japan, students don’t work as hard. They are not encouraged to think or be independent. Mitsuo can never directly say a student’s paper was useless. He must suggest they do something else. His daughter really liked England – she learned English. She found it difficult when she returned to the Japanese school system. She had to learn the Kanji script. She was expected to do things the same way at the other Japanese. But, in England, she learned to think independently.

Social Values

In Japanese society, maintaining harmony is a top priority. They must be indirect when speaking to someone. He learned in the West that he had to be assertive. Women in Japan are not assertive, and that is why there is a low divorce rate. Women stay at home while men work all day and play all night. Men concentrating on their work has helped Japan modernize. Traditionally, a wife serves the meal and eats afterward, but not his wife. They talk at mealtime. Parents don’t understand.

But greater technology does not mean happiness. His wife is anti-technology. She is an artist: drawing, sculpting, and weaving. She also has a small garden. She is considered crazy by other Japanese. Even parents can’t understand why they are so open at home!

Japan is a very homogeneous society. The Japanese like to be among the Japanese, so they travel in groups. Recently, there have been more suicides and greater violence against parents by children! Too much pressure.

Trade and Food

Rice Fields, Kitami

Japan imports 50% of its food from other countries. In many trade agreements, especially with the USA, Japan has to import food in exchange for allowing its exports. Japan made a choice between technology and agriculture, between industry and the environment.

As the government buys the crops, it can dictate what the Japanese will buy and pay. Thus, Japanese food is expensive to force people to buy imported food. Some fruit growers could not compete with cheap, foreign fruits. So, they went into producing expensive, high-quality fruits — like huge apples and pears. Japanese people love sweets, resulting in bad teeth. The Japanese are fond of coffee, and coffee milk is very common. You can even buy coffee bubble gum.

On the 3rd October, we left Sounkyo and reached Iwamizawa by noon. We sat down to have some lunch of tuna fish. A woman came out of her house to give us a litre of milk and two eggs! In Sapporo, we had no luck hitching out, so we took a bus to the outskirts. We got off the freeway at Chitose. It was late, so we hitched under a street lamp to Shikotsu-Ko.

Shikotsu-Ko

Sounkyo – Shikotsu-ko 257 km, 3:17 hrs.
Shikotsu-ko – Eniwa-dake Trail 9 km, 0:10 h

Bus: Chitose – Shikotsu-ko 28 mins JPY 500 – 650 (USD)
Tomakomai – Shikotsu-ko 2:12 hrs JPY 2094 – 3277

Shikotsu-ko View, Shikotsu-Toya NP

Shikotsu-Ko is the second deepest (363 m) caldera lake in Japan.

Shikotsu Kohan

Shikotsu Kohan is the resort town where you can stay overnight. We stayed at probably the best youth hostel (YH) in Japan overall. The tatami mat bedrooms were really nice with comfortable, mould-free futons. There was no heating, but the quilts were warm enough.

The atmosphere was quiet. Classical or folk music was played just before meals! In the cozy lounge, they served tea and snacks every night. It was conducive to meeting people. Etsuko Kitsukawa, the hostel mama-san, was very dynamic. Her son was very helpful and spoke some English. They tell people what to do with jokes. A guest translated it into English.

The food was very good. Because we arrived late, they allowed us to eat with the hostel mama-san! We had a delicious fish soup pot with large snails

Eniwa Dake Trail

Distance: 4 km
Time: 6 hrs RT

Eniwa-dake Trail, Shikotsu-ko Map

Shikotsu Kohan is on the east side of the lake (marked #8 to #12 on the map). A toll road (marked #6 on the map) goes along the edge of the lake for about 10 km. We continued beyond the Poropinai Campground (marked #5 on the map) at the end of the lake. Past the parking area, we signed in at the registration hut. Eniwa-dake is marked #1 on the map.

Autumn Trees, Shikotsu-ko

At 10:16 h, we began the trail. There were no Romaji signs until much later. The first section was an easy grade. We crossed a dry stream bed a couple of times. We reached the very small “2000 m” sign at 11:17 h (0:56 hrs walking time).

Corinne on Eniwa-dake Hike, Shikotsu-ko

Then the trail became very steep with slippery dirt, but little to hold onto. We used the ropes to pull ourselves up. Corinne did not like them. There were about 4 rope sections. We completed the rope section at 12:12 h (1:55 hrs walking time).

Shikotsu-ko from Eniwa-dake

Not long afterwards, we reached the rim with good views of the steaming crater, Shikotsu-ko, and green, furrowed Fuppushi-dake. We stopped here for a while. Then we walked uphill over coarse lava. We reached the very small “3000 m” sign at 13:12 h (2:14 hrs walking time).

Shikotsu-ko from Crater, Eniwa-dake

We saw our first views of Okotanpe Lake (marked #22 on the map). The beautiful green lake was partially hidden. We climbed up to the rim again with more views towards Shikotsu-ko. Then there was a small sign on a tree noting 2 trails to the top. One to the right descends a bit, circles the rocky area and climbs back up to the top. We didn’t see it, so we continued on.

Lake Okotanpe View, Eniwa-dake

We came to an Iron Rung Ladder (3.6 km) draped over a vertical rock. It was difficult to get one’s foot on the rungs. There were also ropes to hang onto. Corinne did not like it at all and didn’t want me to go up it either. Corinne stayed while I went on. There were only 7 rungs to climb, so it was soon over. It took about 10 minutes to reach the pinnacle viewpoint. The volcanic plug is marked on the map with a triangle ∆1320, which means 1320 m (4340 ft) asl. I reached the volcanic plug at 13:35 h (4.0 km 2:47 h walking time).

From here, I saw a full view of Okotanpe Lake (G4.0) nestled in an amphitheatre with a volcanic peak behind it. Beautiful forested hills flowed beyond the classic volcanic plug. A volcanic plug, also called a volcanic neck or lava neck, is a volcanic object created when magma hardens within a vent on an active volcano.

It was more difficult descending the rung ladder as I couldn’t see the next foothold. The rung ladder hangs flat against the rock. The constant descent was very tiring on the feet, especially due to the very loose rocky track.

Autumn Scene, Shikotsu-ko, Shikotsu-Toya NP

The rope sections weren’t that difficult. We departed the summit at 14:45 h and arrived at the lake at 16:45 h.

A Birthday Party

Corinne Eating Supper, Shikotsu-ko Youth Hostel

Because a large group came, the YH had a special meal today. But Etsuko-san, the hostel mother, decided to turn it into a birthday party! Before the meal, she told the Japanese guests that it was Corinne’s birthday. Everyone sang “Happy Birthday to You”, then Etsuko-san gave Corinne presents — two Shikotsu-Ko cups and greeting cards. Then everyone clinked their wine glasses, drank and ate!
George & Corinne Eating Supper, Shikotsu-ko Youth Hostel
It was a great meal with so many different things – liver, onion, chicken skewers, vinegar-flavoured rice, delicious soya eggs (they were brown instead of white), fried potatoes with a coating of sugar. Afterwards, everyone took turns singing, including me.

Moss Canyon

Moss Canyon, Koke no Dōmon, Shikotsu-ko

Koke no Dōmon or Moss Canyon was located on the north side of Lake Shikotsu. Koke no Dōmon has been closed to the public since 2013 due to safety concerns—specifically, the risk of rockfalls and wall collapses. Instead, you can visit Kaede-sawa Moss Gorge (or Moss Corridor). It is accessible via guided tours from Shikotsu-ko Onsen.

Moss Canyon, Koke no Dōmon, Shikotsu-ko

There was not enough sun (14:46 h) to bring out the greenness. It was a very pleasant but very short 10-minute walk. We saw potholing along the 14 m high canyon. One trail was closed as there were too many bears on Fuppushi Dake.

Noboribetsu Onsen

Shikotsu-ko – Noboribetsu 71 km, 1:00 h

Jigokudani, Noboribetsu, Shikotsu-Toya NP

We walked up the road past the Daiichi Takimato Hotel. The nicest viewpoint was on the right-hand path. We had lunch on a bench; otherwise, you don’t need to spend so long. There was a nice view of sulphurous, steaming hills with a hot stream twisting in between. Red tints among the green foliage.

Jigokudani, Noboribetsu, Shikotsu-Toya NP

Jigokudani, which means “Hell’s Valley”, does indeed look like hell. Volcanic gases spout from the cracks in the rocks, with the smell of rotten eggs (sulphur). Billowing white steam hung over the simmering hot springs.

Oyunuma

We walked up a paved path from Jigokudani to Oyunuma. We crossed the highway on a short dirt road past some stone Jizo statues. Oyunuma was just a boiling lake far below, beneath a rocky outcrop, with some red foliage. We continued up the highway to the Kuttara-Ko viewpoint along the highway, which was not worthwhile. The lake had no special colour. Kuttara-Ko is so large, you can’t see it all.

Daiichi Takimoto Onsen

This is a must-do! It was quite strange to have mixed nude bathing at first, but most people held towels in front of them. Corinne was the only young woman in the public area. There were a few more in the women-only pools. There were several large pools, each with a different temperature, colour, and steaminess. In some pools, it was too opaque to see through. The best part was the cool whirlpool; the water jets were very relaxing.

We had trouble hitching out at 16 h – we waited over an hour. A two-year-old bowed to me and he said konnichiwa! So cute!

We stayed in the Noboribetsu Kannon-Ji YH, a small, clean hostel (25 beds). It was very cold except under the quilts. The best things were the friendly house parents and the superb food (one of the best in Japan) – a stew with bamboo shoots, delish meatballs, bean sprouts, and tofu, which melted like butter in our mouths.

Toyako

Noboribetsu – Toyako p 59 km, 0:51 hrs.
Bus to Stn ca. 7 mins Train: Noboribetsu – Toyako Stn 1:49 h JPY 2168 – 3329

Haka-jima, Toya-ko

There was a good lookout of Toya-ko (lake) along the road from Toyako (the town) and the onsen. We loved the view of the whole lake and Haka-jima, the central island. Jima means island. There is no need to go all around the lake. We ate lunch at a picnic table here.

Showa Shinzan

Showa Shinzan, Toyako

Shōwa-shinzan (G4.3) is probably the most interesting sight in the Toya-ko area. The multi-hued outcrop steamed heavily. There was also a good viewpoint of the active volcano, Usu-san. Usu-san has stood next to the lake for 20,000 years.

Showa Shinzan, Toyako

Shōwa refers to the era in Japanese history during the reign of Emperor Hirohito, from 1926 to 1989. Shinzan means new mountain. Showa-Shinzan emerged from a farm field in 1943.

Toyako Volcano Science Museum

Hours: 09:00 to 17:00
Fees: JPY 600 (USD 4.20)
Showtime: 09:30 to 16:10 every 40 mins on the 2^nd floor
Bus: Tokayo Stn to Tokayo VC 7 min JPY 240 – 340

The Toyako Visitor Center and Volcano Science Museum are part of the Shikotsu-Toya National Park. There are videos and exhibits about the year 2000 eruption of Usu-san and its impact on the local community. Multilingual pamphlets are available

Toyako Science Museum Ticket Stub

The museum is very worthwhile. The best part was the very realistic movie of the eruption. It was most unnerving. We didn’t know that there were lightning flashes inside a volcanic smoke plume! Or that a volcanic eruption caused earthquakes. The movie seating area moved with the heavy sound vibrations. You literally felt the power of nature.

1^st floor: photos of volcanic phenomena around Japan and many shops; toilets

2^nd Floor: exhibits of damaged cars, excellent photographs, theatre

3^rd floor: small exhibit of antique tools and clothing; toilets

Toya YH

Islands in the Lake, Toya-ko, 94-27

The YH gave us our own tatami room without us asking. The room was very cold – no heat. We got to use the next-door onsen. It was quite large, very hot, and the best part of the hostel. It was available from 15:00 to 21:30!

Supper was so nicely presented in a lacquerware box. We enjoyed the large quantities and many different kinds of food: a feast for the eyes as well as the mouth.

There were only three other guests, all Japanese. Talking to them was like pulling teeth, even though one spoke English well. They spoke at great length among themselves.

Hakodate

Toyako – Hakodate 163 km, 2:17 h
Train: Toyako – Hakodate 1:50 h JPY 4300 – 6000

Hakodate is a small city with a population of 239,813. We visited the Tourist Info near the Train Station. One woman spoke a little English and was very helpful.

This was the home city of Yoshihiko Aketa, who had driven us to Akan-Ko (lake). He had invited us to visit his family when we came to Hakodate. We were unsure whether to follow up on this kind invitation. But we decided we very much wanted to meet a Japanese family.

We explained to the tourist office that Yoshihiko had given us his phone numbers and address. She first called Yoshihiko at his work office and left a message. Then she called his home number, and his wife, Kimiko, answered. It was so typical that he had not even told her he had invited us to visit! For a few minutes, she tried to find out how we knew Yoshihiko. Even though she didn’t know who we were, Kimiko said to come over.

Aketa Family

Meanwhile, Yoshihiko received a message from his office and came to pick us up. Fortunately, we already knew about Japanese customs. We removed our hiking boots at the door and put on the guest slippers. You also have to change into another pair of slippers to use the bathroom. We also knew some basic words like konnichi-wa, hello.

In the late afternoon, all four children came home from school. The look of shock when they saw gaijin (foreigners) in their house was priceless. Unfortunately, this was before the cell phone era, so we did not get photos.

We used an English-Romaji dictionary to communicate during those pre-mobile app days. It’s amazing how powerful a dictionary is. All Japanese people are educated in all four Japanese written scripts, including Romaji (our Latin alphabet).

Japanese Supper

Uppermost on Kimiko’s mind was what these gaijin would like to eat. She was certain that all we would eat was Western food. With the help of the dictionary, we told her we love Japanese food.

What is really unique is the arrangement of Japanese food. Kimiko placed small plates and bowls with different foods on each. We used our chopsticks to transfer small amounts to our plates. Each bite was a new taste. We had small, sweet preserved plums, delicious dried cuttlefish, and dried sweet crab. Tea was served from a small teapot, and the cup was changed with each new pouring. There were two other oishī delicious dishes:

Miso shiro soup is made with fermented bean paste with umami, dried wakame seaweed, tofu, and dashi broth – a savoury base made from kombu (kelp) and bonito flakes.

Inari zushi is dashi-seasoned sushi rice stuffed into a pouch made from deep-fried tofu skin called abura-age. This is simmered in a sweet and savoury broth, often flavoured with soy sauce, sugar, and dashi.

Fun fact: this dish is named after the Shinto deity Inari. Inari Ōkami is the Shinto deity of rice, tea, sake, fertility, and prosperity. Kami means deity, and O means great. Need we stress how important he was to an agrarian economy! Kitsune are special foxes that are messengers of Inari. They are said to love fried tofu. That’s why you’ll often see these little pockets offered at Inari shrines in Japan.

Japanese Breakfast

A Japanese-style breakfast is quite different from that in the West. We had miso shiro soup with small amounts of marinated vegetables, like chrysanthemum flowers, served in small saucers. A small sardine was fried lightly, with rice served with a raw egg on top. This is common in dishes like tamago kake gohan (Japan) or bibimbap (Korea), where the heat from the rice gently cooks the egg when stirred in.

Yoshihiko

Yoshihiko Aheta making Onigiri, Hakodate 91-22

Yoshihiko was then a 41-year-old drug salesman. He wasn’t satisfied with his job as he was away for five days every second week. He was very nervous, eager to please, and wanted to show us everything.

Yoshihiko means splendid or excellent – a baby who is destined for greatness!. He was not a typical Japanese male. He made the picnic lunch for our Sunday drive – onigiri (cooked salmon inside a rice ball wrapped in nori seaweed), coffee, cocoa and the most delicious Japanese apple-pears – these were juicy, crisp, and very sweet. One of the best fruits we have ever tasted!

He said several times that he and his wife quarrel. He wanted to know what our first impression of him was – he said his wife wanted to know.

Kimiko

Kimiko Aheta, Hakodate

Kimiko was then 36 years old. She loved art (looking more than collecting) and had several art books. She was not a typical Japanese woman. She was very lively, expressive, and dominant. Kimiko means valuable or beautiful child. Girls were often named with a “ko” (子, “child”) suffix at the end of the given name.

Personality Types

Using a dictionary, she said Japanese define personalities into two basic types:

Yōki (陽気) means cheerful, lively, or sunny — like herself. Someone outgoing, upbeat, and sociable might be called yōki.

Uchiki (内気) means shy, reserved, or introverted — like Yoshihiko. It’s used for people who are quiet, hesitant, or uncomfortable in social situations.

Another classification is Kawaita (dry), which means people who are considered rational, detached, and pragmatic. They tend to be more logical, less emotionally reactive, and sometimes even sarcastic or ironic.

Nureta (wet) people are seen as emotional, sentimental, and expressive. They might be more empathetic, sensitive to others’ feelings, or prone to nostalgia and romanticism.

Children

Aheta Family, Hakodate, 95-07

The children did not speak any English. We communicated through gestures, smiles, and a dictionary. The reserve of the children eased as they became more familiar with us. Masato was a 13-year-old who collected keychains and stamps – so did his parents. We happened to have some Canadian stamps that we gave to him. The name Masato means a person who adheres to social norms and possesses a strong moral character.

Makiko was an 11-year-old who seemed sensitive. She was having orthodontic treatment. Depending on the kanji character used to write this name, it could mean “rejoice,” among many other options.

Fukiko was a 9-year-old who played amicably with Shihoko, a 6-year-old who is by far the most lively and expressive. The name Fukiko means a noble child blessed with wealth or fortune. Shihoko means aspiration, ambition, or goal.

Exploring Hakodate

The next day was a work day, so we decided to explore Hakodate on our own. Kimiko was very worried that we would get lost in Hakodate. Kimiko brought us to the bus stop for the correct bus route. Before we got in the bus, she had tears in her eyes and said “shinpai, shinpai” (worried) as we boarded the bus to downtown. Earlier, we had told her we were on a three-year round-the-world trip and had many experiences in countries where we were illiterate.

Boni Moriya-mae

Down the street from the Train Station, we dropped into the Boni Moriya-mae dept. store to pick up lunch supplies. In the basement was a superb supermarket with ready-to-eat meals and many free tasters. We also looked through the liquor section. We found Geikkeikan sake and Umeshu. The latter is a sweet and tangy Japanese plum liqueur made by steeping green ume (plums) in alcohol and sugar. It is a delicious plum liquor we had at the Aheta home.

Hakodate Orthodox Church

Hours: 13:00 – 16:00: closed in the mornings Admission: Free

Hakodate Orthodox Church, Hakodate

We walked south and found the Hakodate Orthodox Church (G4.2). The onion domes were a big surprise. Why was there a Russian Orthodox Church here?

Hakodate’s natural harbour and proximity to Russia made it a strategic location for trade and diplomacy. Vladivostok is about 740 km (460 mi) from Hakodate as the crow flies!

The Russian Orthodox Church was founded in 1859 by the Russian Consulate. The building showcases Byzantine-style architecture with white walls and iconic green domes. It had a very nice carved and painted altar. It was not too special for Westerners, but we had not realized the significance yet.

Old Public Hall of Hakodate

Prefecture Government & Old Public Hall, Hakodate

On the left is the Prefecture Government Office (G3.9). A prefecture is like a province of Japan. On the right, on a hill, is the Old Public Hall (G4.2). The photo was taken from Motomachi Park. But why is there so much European architecture here?

The Commodore Perry expedition brought four (1853) and seven (1854) USA ships to Tokyo and Yokohama, respectively. He demonstrated their firepower with cannon salutes. He demanded that Japan open to foreign trade and establish a coaling station for their steamships.

The Tokugawa Shogunate had kept Japan isolated for 260 years! The Tokugawa Shogunate and the feudal system ended in 1868. The Meiji Restoration shifted power to Emperor Meiji, modernized Japan, and introduced capitalism. Hakodate was the first Japanese port to open. The city became a magnet for international visitors and settlers. Most gaijin lived in designated areas for foreign residents.

The Foreign Cemetery

Jizo with Fred Sports Shirts, Foreign Cemetery, Hakodate

At its peak, the foreign population included British, French, Russian, American, Chinese, Danish, and German residents. The Foreign Cemetery (G3.6) was not worthwhile, but there are always interesting things to see.

Jizō statues were dressed in red or even branded sports shirts like “Fred Sports”. These Jizō figures are Buddhist guardians of children, travellers, and the souls of the departed. It’s common to see them adorned with clothing, bibs, or hats—often red, a colour believed to ward off evil and illness.

Three Children with Walnuts, Hakodate

We ate very good take-out tempura. We turned left on Tara Machi-sen avenue to see a view of Komagatake volcano from the cemetery.

Kōryū-ji Temple

Hours: daily from 9:00 to 16:00
Admission: Free

Koryu-ji, Hakodate, Japan

Kōryūji Temple, 200 m from the Foreign Cemetery, was founded in 1633. Relocated several times due to fires, it settled in its current spot in 1879. The main gate, built in 1911 from zelkova wood, features intricate carvings of lions and dragons. It is an architectural treasure from the late Meiji period.

We admired the shaped trees with bronze and stone incense burners and a bronze statue of Kannon in the inner garden. We discussed Kannon at Kiyomizu-dera (Kyoto). Kannon is a bodhisattva, an enlightened being who postpones final enlightenment (bodhi) to alleviate the suffering of all sentient beings. She is the embodiment of limitless compassion and mercy.

Cuttlefish – Ika

Cuttlefish on a Clothesline, Hakodate, 94-29

We saw cuttlefish (ika) drying on a clothesline held up by clothes pegs! They were drying them. Two popular cuttlefish dishes are:

1. Ika Nigiri: A slice of raw cuttlefish atop vinegared rice, often brushed with soy sauce.
2. Ika Yaki: Whole grilled cuttlefish, typically seasoned with soy sauce or a sweet glaze, and served at festivals or street stalls.

We had Ika Yaki several times in Japan.

Cuttlefish on a Clothesline, Hakodate, 94-28

Cuttlefish also have one of the largest brain-to-body size ratios of all invertebrates. Cuttlefish in Latin is sepia. Ancient Rome valued cuttlefish for the unique red-brown pigment the creature releases from its siphon when it is alarmed. The word sepia now refers to a reddish-brown colour in English. Sepia ink was commonly used for writing in Greco-Roman civilization. It remained in common use as an artist’s drawing material until the 19th century.

Sepia Colour

Onuma

Koma-ga-take Volcano, Onuma-ko, Hakodate, 95-03

On Sunday, we went with the family — except Kimiko and Masato — for a picnic. There was heavy traffic. Oddly, the Japanese all head to the same spot even though they know it will be crowded.

Lake Onuma is only 20 km north of Hakodate. It was pretty with small islets in the foreground and the Hokkaido Koma-ga-take (G4.6) volcano behind the lake. It would not be worth a special trip.

Our Lady of the Angels Trappist Abbey

Trappist Convent, Hakodate, CC BY-SA (Wikipedia)

This Trappist Monastery (G4.3) was founded by a group of eight nuns sent from France in 1898. It was not too special, but to the Japanese, Western buildings are exotic.

Trappist Convent View, Hakodate, CC BY-SA (Wikipedia)

The convent is on a hill overlooking the gardens and forest down to the ocean. Tohoku can be seen on the horizon, though it was hazy (it was afternoon). You could not enter the compound except by arrangement with one week’s notice. There was a track to the top of the mountain.

Hakodate-San

Mount Hakodate was originally an island that was formed by volcanic eruptions millions of years ago. Yoshihiko drove us up Saturday night. It was extremely busy — he said it was busy every Saturday and on holidays!

Hakodate City from Hakodate San, CC BY-SA (Wikipedia)

It was a beautiful night view, because the lights trace the arc of the long, sweeping bay on the right and harbour on the left. They ranked this view as the 3^rd best in the world, after Napoli and Hong Kong.

A Western Farewell

It was time to say goodbye to the Aheta family and Hokkaido. We were so touched by the openness of these people who had invited us into their home and shared themselves despite the difficulty with communicating.

They were really shocked when we hugged her goodbye. Oops! We forgot we were in Japan. We just blew the Japanese concept of personal space. They were visibly shocked! Yoshihiko asked, “You mean in your country, you do things like that?” He even brought up this topic again as he drove us to the ferry.

The restraint and low-key nature of the Japanese people made their culture intriguing. A chance encounter with this family opened our eyes to how others live. We experienced such hospitality a few times in Japan. The gentle kindness of the Japanese people really warmed our hearts.

Coastal Cliffs, Aomori

From Hokkaido, we sailed south to the port of Aomori in Tohoku (Northern Honshu). The next part of our three-month trip is described in Explore Hidden Japanese Gems: From Miyako to Aomori.

Hokkaido Resources

Japan Hokkaido Google Map, our custom Google itinerary

Destinations – Hokkaido, JNTO Website

First-Time Guide to Hokkaidō, Lonely Planet Website

Hokkaido Love, Hokkaido Official Tourism Website

Other Places to See

You can find many hidden gems in Hokkaido. That does NOT mean there will be no visitors. Most tourists in Japan are domestic, and the Japanese are well aware of these “hidden gems”. Here are a few places to consider when you’re seeking a more tranquil experience.

Cherry Blossom Places

Hokkaido’s cherry blossom season arrives later than the rest of Japan—typically in late April to early May. Similarly to temples, why do you have to go to the well-known cherry blossom places? There are several off-the-beaten-path spots where you can enjoy quiet cherry blossom viewing:

Lesser-Visited Sakura Places

Overcrowded Sakura Places

Wisteria Blossom Places

You can see wisteria from late May to early June, depending on location. This is outside the over-touristed Cherry Blossom and holiday season, which is April in Central Honshu.

Sapporo Weather

Hokkaido Best Time

May to September has the best high temperatures of 21.8°C (71.2°F). August is the hottest month, with an average high of 25°C (77°F). November is getting very cold with a high temperature of 7°C (44.6°F), and winter is frigid. The rainiest months are August (140 mm) and September (125 mm).

[strong][strong][strong][strong][strong]Hokkaido[/strong][/strong][/strong][/strong]Getting Around[/strong]

Hakodate is the southern port city of 234,700 people. Tōyako has a population of 7,832 people. Kamikawa (Sōunkyō) is a small town with 3,200 people. Sapporo is a major city with 2.65 million people.

If you are travelling by bus or train, you may have to exclude the places that are only accessible by rental car or taxi. The places best suited for a rental car are Akan-ko, Io-san, Kussharo-ko, and Noboribetsu Onsen. Here are the train and bus fares from the Rome2Rio app:

If you are planning to see multiple, distant areas, check out a multi-city airfare.

Final Comments

We hope this post will encourage you to visit the intriguing Tohoku and escape the over-tourism of central Honshu island.

Surprising Fact for Today

Hokkaido has 52 volcanoes, of which 9 are active. About 10% of Japan’s land area is volcanic! For more surprising facts, read Unlock Japan: Insider Tips & FAQs.

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Other Posts You May Like

Here are other places to add to your itinerary as you head south from Tohoku towards Nara.

Hokkaido: Northeast Into Nature’s Wonderland

Hidden Japanese Gems: From Miyako to Aomori

Japanese Gems: From Kinkasan to Hiraizumi

Explore Hidden Gems in the Japanese Alps

Why Nikko Japan Should Not Be Missed

Embracing ‘Kayama Country’

Why Kanazawa Should Be on Your Japan Bucket List

Why Nara Should Be on Your Japan Bucket List

Travel Tips and Guides

Guide to Japanese Culture

Hidden Features of Japan

Insider Tips & FAQs

Is Japan Beautiful

Abbreviations

Google Maps Ratings

Google Maps provides a rating from 0 to 5 for all sights, hotels, and restaurants (but not cities). All our recommendations are appended with the rating (prefixed with a G) from Google Maps. Google Ratings are based on feedback from locals as well as tourists. They are much more reliable than travel booking websites or tourist anecdotes.

We consider a score of 4 to 4.39 to be Very Good and 4.4 to 5 to be Excellent. Yet, in Japan, many must-see sights are rated by the Japanese as 4.2. Based on this, we would consider the range of 4.2 to 5 to be Excellent.

All photos and text © Terra Encounters
Except where noted CC BY-SA (Creative Commons Wikipedia)
Japan Encounters is a subsidiary of Terra Encounters

Asia Encounters

2025-07-08 13:48:46

Explore Hokkaido: Northeast Journey Into Nature’s Wonderland

Why Visit Hokkaido

Hokkaido is a large island located north of Honshu. Here is a place where you can immerse yourself in Japanese nature, culture and cuisine. It is also the best place in Japan to escape over-tourism. We did not even bother going to Sapporo.

Hokkaido is a nature lover’s dream with its volcanoes, lakes, hot springs, and hikes. We spent 14 days in Hokkaido. We have divided our trip into two posts: one for northeast Hokkaido and a second for southwest Hokkaido. Each one takes a week.

Author & Photographer: George Mitchell

George’s Bio

Our advice is not influenced by affiliate links — we have none. Our itineraries, photos, and advice come from three years of travelling around the world, including three months in Japan. We are avid hikers, nature lovers, and photographers. We are students of art and architecture, culture and cuisine.

All the sights in this itinerary can be found on our custom Japan Hokkaido Google Map. The points of interest are appended with their Google Maps Ratings, which range from G0 to G5.

Japanese Names

Name suffixes show the type of building. So “ji”, “dera” or “tera” is a generic Buddhist temple. The suffix “in” is a Buddhist temple in a garden, especially a Zen temple. For more useful information, see the Guide to the Japanese Language.

Generally, I write the names of sights in Japanese (Romaji) because asking for directions with English names will be futile. Writing Kōmyō-ji Temple is redundant, but sometimes I add “temple” for those readers who missed this section.

Northeast Hokkaido

On September 27th, we took the Hachinohe ferry to the port of Tomakomai. After leaving Tokyo, we headed to Hokkaido to hike before it got too cold or snowy. Our northernmost destination, Sounkyo Gorge, is at the same latitude as Toronto, Canada. This is one region in Japan where a rental car would let you easily see all the sights. We rarely had a problem hitchhiking around the northeast.

https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=76630829" title="Mashū-ko Wintertime, Japan By Kpravin2 - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=76630829" class="has-alt-description">Mashū-ko Wintertime, CC BY SA Wikipedia

Obihiro

Tomakomai – Obihiro 204 km, 3:09 hrs.
Obihiro – Ashoro 65 km, 1:00 hrs.
Ashoro – Akankohan 55 km, 0:53 h

We met Yoshihiko on the Nissho Highway (Hidaka to Tokachi-Shimizu). He’s a 41-year-old drug salesman who speaks a few words of English. We arrived at Obihiro at noon, where he took us to visit his friend, also a drug salesman. They first gave us lemon tea. Then we tried herring roe from Canada. It was very piquant, but we probably would never buy it ourselves. Then they gave us a glass of milk and cookies while his friend’s wife made miso shiro soup, which we learned they simply added bean paste from a package to the water.

They served kuromai or black rice, a traditional heirloom grain. The blue-black outer bran layer is rich in anthocyanins, the same antioxidants found in blueberries and eggplants. It turns a vibrant purple when cooked. Then they served pickled plum (sour) and fried eggs! We were stuffed!

Yoshihiko was so eager to show us around – he had nothing to do as he had no work today. He brought us to a playing field with the longest bench in the world! We had told him we were going to Akan-ko. Instead of leaving us off at the Highway 242 junction, we found ourselves being driven to Ashoro. He insisted on parking until we got a lift. To our surprise, we didn’t get a ride in over 30 minutes – it usually only took a dozen minutes. A local woman said Monday was a bad day to “catch a car”, as the Japanese put it, due to little traffic! Then he grabbed our packs and said he would drive us. He also invited us to visit his family in Hakodate (next post) on our way back.

Akan-Mashu National Park

Akan-Ko

Auto: Tomakomai – Akankohan 295 km, 4:03 hrs
Train: Tomakomai – Shiranuka 3:23 hrs JPY 8400 – 12500 (USD 58 – 86)
+Taxi: Shiranuka – Akankohan 1:10 hrs JPY 22,000 – 27000 (USD 152 – 186)

Akan-Ko (G4.3) is located in a former caldera from a volcanic eruption 31,500 years ago. Akan-Kohan is a hot spring (onsen) resort. At the Akan-Kohan YH (Akan Kanko Hotel), we met two older Australian women who were backpacking in Japan for one month. They liked hiking and were also using the Lonely Planet guidebook. There was no internet then. At the supermarket, we bought lunch and snack supplies for hiking: peanuts, McVities digestive cookies, European bread, and peanut butter.

Lake Onnetō

Akankohan – Onnetō-ko 20 km, 0:21 hrs.

Meakan-dake from Onneto-ko

We headed to Lake Onnetō (G4.5), six km up Highway 949. It had a very beautiful green colour. We walked a very short path to the shore to take a photo of Me-Akan-dake (volcano) behind the lake. We continued walking to the end of the lake, but there was no sign of the hiking trail. People were trying to tell us to return to another track some 3.2 km earlier, where most Japanese hike up. We persisted and went up a side road behind a building, and sure enough, there was a sign.

Me-Akan Dake Trail

At 9:00 h, we started hiking through a heavily forested area with many tree roots. The grade became moderately steeper through a mainly coniferous forest.

After we reached the 2 km signpost (10:05 h), the forest changed to subalpine shrubby trees. We felt the full force of the bitter cold wind. Fortunately, we had ski jackets.

View from Me-Akan-dake, Hokkaido

We were finally high enough to get a good view of the green Lake Onnetō (10:29 h). There were no more signs, but the trail was well-marked with red lines and arrows. The trail continued to the right, around the back of the mountain. We reached a trail junction on a saddle between the two inactive volcanoes.

https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=17088332" title="Meakan-dake Aerial View, Japan By 663highland - Own work, CC BY 2.5, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=17088332" class="has-alt-description">Meakan-dake Aerial View, CC BY-SA Wikipedia

The top was fascinating with a gaping, wide crater. Behind a small green pond, sulphurous steam rose from a couple of vents. As we walked around, we felt the draw of the deep crater. This was heightened by the steep drop-off from the rim. There were excellent views of Akan-ko and the Oakan Dake volcano.

View from Me-Akan-dake, Hokkaido, 90-035

We began the steep trail down (11:50 h), which was more open and very exposed to the wind. We met a handful of people, unlike the uphill track, where we were alone. We reached Highway 949 at 13:50 h.

Me-Akan Dake Details

Distance: 4.2 km OW uphill; 3.2 km OW downhill
Duration: 4:45 hrs. RT
Elev Gain: 876 m
Max. Elev: 1499 m

Bokke

We visited Bokke (G4.2), a very small set of bubbling mud pools on a short 1.5-km trail near the Akan-ko Eco-Museum Centre. Soon, the leaf-strewn forested path revealed the Bokke, a mud “volcano” where underground gases and water vapour push hot mud to the surface. We also saw steam-heated water near the shore to the right of the dock.

Mashu-Ko

Akankohan – Mashu-Ko 49 km, 0:58 hrs.
Bus 1: Akankohan – Teshikaga 0:50 hrs JPY 2500 3500 (USD 17 – 24)
Bus 2: Teshikaga – Mashu-Ko 0:20 hrs JPY 200 – 550 (USD 1.38 – 3.79)

At the Akankohan Museum, you can see a tank with marimo weed. The marimo weed acts like a submarine as it can rise or descend. We saw marimo weed for free at the shop just in front of YH. We left Akankohan at 09:38 h.

The Sokodai Pass viewpoint (G3.3) on Highway 241 was not worthwhile. You can only see a small part of Akan-ko. It was 3 km further to the Sogakudai Viewpoint (G4.0). It wasn’t special, but it provided a nice view of two volcanoes, Me-Akan (G4.7) and Oakan Dake (G4.3).

Mashu-ko & Mt Kamui

Mashu-Ko (G4.5) is a lake (Ko) with an incredibly intense blue colour. Steep crater walls rise 200 m above the lake. The lake is inside a 6 km wide volcanic caldera from a massive eruption in the Holocene Era (11,700 years ago after the end of the last Ice Age). Do you see a pattern here? Many Japanese lakes are former volcanic calderas.

Mashu-ko & Mt Kamui Wide Angle

Mashu-Ko Daichi Tembodai or Lake Mashu Observation Deck No.1 (G4.3) had a very good view. The lake was clear and had a different blue colour, especially along the shore. Volcanic mountains were sprinkled in the background. Many Japanese asked us to be in their photograph!

Io-san

Mashu-Ko – Io-san 15 km, 0:19 hrs

Io-san Overview

Io-san was very worthwhile. At our first view from the side of Lake Mashu-ko, Io-san looked like a barren, low mountain. As we approached, we saw the rising steam. We walked up the green-yellow stained rocks past steaming fumaroles and that smell!

Sulphurous Rock, Io-san

Higher up were many more bright yellow stained rocks. I went to photograph one and found myself enveloped suddenly by a foul, sulphurous cloud, which fogged up my glasses. It was suffocating and possibly toxic. So I held my breath and waited. I just looked it up on the Internet. Yes, the sulphurous steam can be dangerous to breathe, especially if you’re close to the vents. The steam holds hydrogen sulphide (H₂S), a toxic gas that smells like rotten eggs.

We looked at some sulphur crystals up close. Corinne touched them. They were quite hot. The steam vents can reach temperatures over 100°C.

Even though they dressed in jeans, it was incredible how Japanese women wore high heels on hiking trails! Older women were cooking eggs in saucepan-sized boiling pools. We had grilled corn on the cob and soft ice cream. Even nature sights came with snack services called sunakku in Japanese. Yes, there are several English words in Japanese.

Kussharo-Ko

Io-san – Kussharo-Ko 17 km, 0:19 hrs.

Kussharo-ko Reflections

We stayed at the Kussharo-Ko YH about 3 km past a town. It was part of the resort onsen, along the lake. In the living room with a bay window overlooking the lake, we met a nice girl from Czechoslovakia, studying chemistry in Tokyo.

Supper provided many different tastes: seaweed with a mint-sesame flavour, fried fish, romaine lettuce, spiced bean curd, bamboo shoots, soup, and rice. We had many experiences with onsen in Japan. Here we enjoyed a large bath lined with pebbles on the bottom and overflowing with very hot mineral water.

Bihoro-Toge (Pass)

Kussharo-Ko – Bihoro-Toge 19 km, 0:21 hrs.

Bihoro-Toge View, Kussharo-ko

The Bihoro-Toge viewpoint (G4.1) at the pass (toge) was very pretty. Lake Kussharo-ko (G4.5) was not a different colour.

Bihoro-Toge View, Kussharo-ko, 92-17

But the sky was azure and clear. The road switchbacked below through the trees.

Ainu People

Ainu Men and Woman, Bihoro-Toge, Kussharo-ko

The only commercialization was the usual tourist complex below the cliffs where bearded Ainu men posed for photos. The Ainu are an indigenous ethnic group who live in northern Japan and southeastern Russia. Ainu means ‘human’ in the Ainu language.

Most Japanese are descendants of the Yamato tribe, who migrated from northeastern Asia. The Ainu were colonized and assimilated by the Japanese since at least the 18th century. The children were forced to go to Japanese schools. They were banned from speaking the Ainu language. Only in 2019 did parliament (the Diet) pass an act recognizing the Ainu as an indigenous people of Japan.

Kitami

While we were at Bihoro-Toge, we met two girls. Eiko, on the left, spoke English very well. They were heading towards Sounkyo and gave us a lift.

Eiko & Friend Picnic, Kitami, 92-19

We had lunch on a farm road just west of Kitami (arr 12:26). They had salad and very good potato chips. The Japanese love sunakku.

Eiko has no brothers, and she is the eldest. It is expected that her parents will live with her forever. She can not marry the oldest son of a family as a result. She doesn’t like the idea of living with her parents. P.S.: This was decades ago.

Elderly Care

Farm Fields, Kitami, 92-20

Traditionally in Japan, elderly parents lived with their eldest son, especially in rural areas or within families that followed the ie system — a patriarchal household structure where the eldest son inherited the family estate and was expected to care for the aging parents.

Urbanization and modernization have led to a rise in nuclear families, with many elderly parents now living independently or in retirement communities.

Co-residence still happens, but it’s influenced by factors like the parents’ health, financial situation, and the children’s marital status or job location. Parents are more likely to live with their eldest son, even if he isn’t the oldest child, reflecting lingering cultural expectations

Daisetsuzan National Park

Kussharo-ko – Sounkyo 166 km 2:51 hrs.
Sapporo – Sounkyo 200 km 2:30 hrs.

Peaks just before town, Daisetsuzan NP

Sounkyo Onsen Youth Hostel

We stayed in Sounkyo for two days, as there were two main things to do: Sounkyo Gorge and the Kurodake Hike. We got our own room with tatami mats at the Sounkyo-Onsen Youth Hostel (YH). This was the busiest YH we had stayed at. Supper on our first day was very oily and not worthwhile. But on the second day, there was a special supper with a large quantity of salmon, very good sushi and fruit!

Kurodake – Hokuchin Dake Hike

Ropeway (aka cable car) ¥1950 RT (USD 14); Time: takes 7 mins.
Hours: summer (June to mid-October) 6 to 18 h

Chair Lift (ski tow) ¥600 RT (USD 4); Time: takes 13 mins
Hours: summer (June to mid-October) 6 to 17 h

View above the Cable Station, Daisetsuzan NP

As it was sunny, we did the Kurodake Hike first. Near the YH, we took a cable car to a platform above the upper station, where there were mobs of Japanese. There were good views with beautiful autumn colours and soft morning light. It was a clear, brisk day.
Autumn Leaves, Daisetsuzan NP
Then we took the ski tow to even better views.
Birch & Autumn Trees, Daisetsuzan NP, 92-32
The first part of the trail was muddy, which made the steady-uphill climb hard. There were good views towards Sounkyo and O Me-Akan-Dake once we were above the tree line.
View from Kurodake, Daisetsuzan NP
The view from Kurodake was really nice. It was October 1st, and patches of snow were already on the plateau.
Snow Plateau, Daisetsuzan NP
This was a worthwhile short trail, but many Japanese also walked here. Beautiful, windswept ice crystals clung to the rocks and signs.

Purple Heath? on Kurodake, Daisetsuzan NP

We descended to a red hut, 18 minutes below. There could be alpine flowers in this area. But we only saw green and purple plants. From here, the trail was easy, relaxing, and so quiet, with very few people.

Asahi-dake

Asahi-dake Crater, Daisetsuzan NP

After a short climb, we suddenly realized that we were on the edge of a crater (Asahi-dake). It was very wide, with water trickling down. The view was barren yet with some green and snow on the surrounding mountains.

View SE towards Snow Plateau, Daisetsuzan NP

Hokuchin Dake looked high, but the climb was not too difficult. But, as soon as we came on top of the ridge, the wind blew right through us. We were glad we brought our down jackets.

Alpine View, Daisetsuzan NP

The view from the top was very nice. But it was too hazy to see the coast. The view west was of a snow-covered trail heading along a ridge down to the valley.

People Rocks, Daisetsuzan NP

Because of the wind chill, we could only stay half an hour before heading down. The trail dried up a bit, and it was less slippery. We met up with Lesley Downer, who was also staying at the YH. We made it to the ski tow for 15:48 h. It was very quiet, but the views were now in the shade. The lighting was soft but not as special as early in the morning.

Sounkyo Gorge

Obako

Japanese Tour Group, Obako, Sounkyo Gorge

We drove 8.9 km (11 minutes) upstream so that we could walk down a gentle grade from the furthest point, Obako (Big Box). Here we captured the typical guided tour group taking the mandatory group photo. Japanese people seem to prefer travelling in groups.

Basalt Columns, Obako, Sounkyo Gorge

Obako has fluted basalt cliffs surrounding a river. The gorge is narrow and enclosed, hence why it is called Big Box (Obako).

Basalt Columns near Obako Waterfall, Sounkyo Gorge, 93-16

We walked through the tunnel of an old road (ca. 15 minutes). A small waterfall plunges through a gap in the cliff walls. Trees grow out of the rock midway up the cliffs, and some have colourful autumn leaves.

Pedway Crystals, Sounkyo Gorge

We walked for 60 minutes. along an old road now converted to a Pedway-Bicycle Path. It was short, but there were no cars or exhaust fumes, as traffic goes through a tunnel and misses the best part of the gorge.

Basalt

Basalt Columns, Sounkyo Gorge, Daisetsuzan NP

Why are there columns here? Lava cooled rapidly due to the river, creating five or six-sided basalt crystals. The vertical faces of the columns are weak, allowing a river to erode the basalt and form a canyon.

Basalt is the most common volcanic rock found in the Earth’s crust. It is a glassy rock, which makes sense since it primarily consists of silica or sand, the key ingredient of glass. If it has a rusty red colour, that indicates the presence of iron.

Basalt Columns, Sounkyo Gorge, Daisetsuzan NP

Most interesting were the large basalt-fluted cliffs. They looked like an accordion. The high cliffs were adorned with colourful autumn leaves. It was very quiet (few people). There were two more waterfalls (taki): Iwa Ma No Taki (690 m off the path) and Kin Shi No Taki (800 m).

Ha Goromo Iwa Curved Basalt, Sounkyo Gorge

Ha Goromo Iwa (890 m) had interesting curved strata caused by tectonic forces. All places are signposted. Most of the things on the left side were in the shade, even though it was noon. Several men bicycled past us in business suits!

Ginga-No-Taki

Ginga-no-taki, Sounkyo Gorge, 92-25

Ginga-No-Taki (G4.3) was the best waterfall. Unfortunately, it was along the highway. The best overall view is from the upper end of the parking lot. But you can better see a veil-like effect when you are close up.

Ryusei-No-Taki

Basalt Columns, Sounkyo Gorge, Daisetsuzan NP

We walked c. 200 m along the river. Ryusei-No-Taki (G4.3) was an okay waterfall. We continued to walk, but at this point, there really wasn’t anything interesting left to see.

Picnic Area

Autumn Trees, Obako, Sounkyo Gorge

Just before the road into town, we crossed a pedestrian-only bridge to a grassy picnic area among the trees. There was a booklet with all the hiking trails on Hokkaido being sold at the Sounkyo YH. Unfortunately, it is only in Kanji.

Lesley Downer

We learned a lot about Japanese culture by talking with people and living with Japanese families. We wrote about our experiences in the Guide to Japanese Social Norms. We learned quite a bit from Lesley Downer, whom we met at the Sounkyo Onsen Youth Hostel. She was 33 years old at that time and taught English at a university. She had lived in Japan for 3 years in Gifu.

Tea Ceremony, Urasenke, Kyoto

Located north of Nagoya, Gifu was a very conservative community. But it also had many people who were interested in traditional things. She learned Ikebana (flower arrangement), pottery, chado (tea ceremony), and Zen. Zen principles have had a major impact on Japanese art and culture.

Culture Lesson

Relationships

Women are expected to marry by 24; otherwise, something is wrong. Men stay out until midnight and get drunk. They can talk about sports all the time. It takes a long time to develop a friendship: The Japanese are like the English. It is difficult to meet people in Japan who like deep relationships; they can’t talk about themselves as individuals, nor ask personal questions.

Politeness

School Kids Bowing Good Morning, Shofukuji, Fukuoka

Politeness is very important in Japan. It is not polite to talk while eating. Some young people do talk. Japanese usually think about others. On the other hand, they are very indirect. They say things they don’t mean. They may say that you must come to visit me. But they never give their address. They can also tell you off in the most polite way – her former landlady told her how messy her kitchen was.

Language

Lesley speaks Japanese very well. There are many levels of communication, depending on the status of the person you are addressing. A lot of communication is nonverbal or intuitive. The aim of conversation is harmony, not communication. She says “hai” (yes) even when she doesn’t understand.

Kabuki

Shunkan Kabuki Play, Kyoto

Only men act, but the ones who portray women are superb. Tamasaburō Bandō V is one of the most celebrated onnagata — male actors who specialize in female roles. Get a Kabuki handbook in English. Ask the Tourist Information Centre (TIC) for current productions.

Compliments

Japanese always give compliments – you’re intelligent, beautiful – that you start to believe them. One reason foreigners like to stay in Japan is that they receive no criticism.

Gifts

Kokeshi Dolls, Gift of the Umetsu Family, Yamagata

Always give a gift if you stay at a Japanese home. The longer one plans to stay, the better the gift. Go to an expensive store. Wrapping is important. It is all show and pretense. It doesn’t matter what you bring. One time, she got baby blue booties. When you give your gift (to the wife), say “Please accept this miserable, cheap gift”, even though it is not.

Omotenashi, the Japanese concept of hospitality, also applies to guests. Offering a gift when a guest admires an object is an extension of this hospitality.

Affluence & Status

Show and status are very important. The Japanese toss away used or even slightly damaged things. If clothes are torn, they throw them out. If a woman wears a mended top, they think she is poor and go and buy her a new one! They throw out “old” equipment and buy the latest models! Many would rather buy a new car than pay for an expensive car checkup (every 3 years). As a result, the Japanese don’t maintain their cars.

Parties

Everyone makes a speech (boring) about anything. Then they eat. After the meal, they sing songs. Endings are always abrupt.

From Hokkaido, we headed south to Tohoku (Northern Honshu), as described in Explore Hidden Japanese Gems: From Miyako to Aomori.

Hokkaido Resources

Japan Hokkaido Google Map, our custom Google itinerary

Destinations – Hokkaido, JNTO Website

First-Time Guide to Hokkaidō, Lonely Planet Website

Hokkaido Love, Hokkaido Official Tourism Website

Other Places to See

You can find many hidden gems in Hokkaido. That does NOT mean there will be no visitors. Most tourists in Japan are domestic, and the Japanese are well aware of these “hidden gems”. Here are a few places to consider when you’re seeking a more tranquil experience.

Cherry Blossom Places

Hokkaido’s cherry blossom (sakura) season arrives later than the rest of Japan, typically in late April to early May. Similarly to temples, why do you have to go to the well-known cherry blossom places? There are several off-the-beaten-path spots where you can enjoy quiet cherry blossom viewing:

Lesser-Visited Sakura Places

Place	Location	Highlights
Forest of Cherry Trees G4.1	Sapporo	A serene grove within Moerenuma Park, designed by Isamu Noguchi, with over 1,600 cherry trees.
Shinkawa Sakura Namiki G4.2	Sapporo	A peaceful riverside lined with cherry trees—perfect for a quiet stroll.
Panoramic Flower Gardens Shikisai-no-oka G4.2	Biei	While known for summer flowers, this spot also features cherry blossoms with stunning rural backdrops.

Overcrowded Sakura Places

Place	Location	Highlights
Goryokaku Park G4.3	Hakodate	A star-shaped fort surrounded by over 1,000 cherry trees. The view from Goryokaku Tower is breathtaking.
Nijukken Road Sakura G4.1	Shinhidaka	A 7-km tunnel of 2,200 cherry trees—one of Japan’s most iconic sakura roads.
Odori Park G4.5	Sapporo	Right in the heart of the city, this park offers a relaxed hanami vibe with Sapporo TV Tower views.

Wisteria Blossom Places

You can see wisteria from late May to early June, depending on location. This is outside the over-touristed Cherry Blossom and holiday season, which is April in Central Honshu.

Place	Location	Highlights
Tenjinyama Park G4.0	Sapporo	Home to the oldest wisteria trellis in Hokkaido, over 200 years old. The “Tenjin Wisteria” spreads 25 meters wide and fills the air with fragrance.
Goryokaku Park G4.3	Hakodate	Known for cherry blossoms, but also features a 30-meter-long wisteria tunnel that blooms in late May.
Maeda Forest Park G4.2	Sapporo	600-meter canal-side park with a stone wisteria trellis that blooms from late May to mid-June.
Maruseppu Fujien Park G4.3	Engaru	hidden gem in northeastern Hokkaido with a peaceful wisteria garden and fewer crowds.

Sapporo Weather

Season – Months	Temp °C	Temp °F
Spring: April–May	1.3°	34.3°
Summer: June–August	23.3°	74.0°
Fall: September–November	14.7°	58.4°
Winter: December–March	3.5°	38.3°

Hokkaido Best Time

May to September has the best high temperatures of 21.8°C (71.2°F). August is the hottest month, with an average high of 25°C (77°F). November is getting very cold with a high temperature of 7°C (44.6°F), and winter is frigid. The rainiest months are August (140 mm) and September (125 mm).

[strong][strong][strong][strong][strong]Hokkaido[/strong][/strong][/strong][/strong]Getting Around[/strong]

Hakodate is the southern port city of 234,700 people.
Tōyako has a population of 7,832 people.
Kamikawa (Sōunkyō) is a small town with 3,200 people.
Sapporo is a major city with 2.65 million people.

Route by Auto	Distance by Road	Time by Road
Hakodate – Tomakomai	238 km	3:30 hrs
Tomakomai – Sapporo	64 km	0:48 hrs
Sapporo – Sounkyo	200 km	2:30 hrs
Sounkyo – Akankohan	154 km	2:19 hrs
Sounkyo – Shikotsu-ko	257 km	3:17 hrs
Shikotsu-ko – Tōyako	129 km	1:50 hrs
Tōyako – Hakodate	163 km	2:17 hrs

If you are travelling by bus or train, you may have to exclude the places that are only accessible by rental car or taxi. The places best suited for a rental car are Akan-ko, Io-san, Kussharo-ko, and Noboribetsu Onsen. Here are the train and bus fares from the Rome2Rio app:

Route by Train or Bus	Fare JPY	Fare USD	Time Hrs
Hakodate – Tomakomai Train	JPY 6000 – 9000	USD 41.65 – 62.47	2:54
Tomakomai – Sapporo Train	JPY 2500 – 3600	USD 17.35 – 25.00	0:48
Sapporo – Sounkyo Train+Bus	JPY 5109 – 7694	USD 35.45 – 53.40	4:30
Sounkyo – Akankohan Bus	JPY 2200 – 3600	USD 15.27 – 24.99	3:56

If you are planning to see multiple, distant areas, check out a multi-city airfare.

Final Comments

We hope this post will encourage you to visit the intriguing Tohoku and escape the over-tourism of central Honshu island.

Surprising Fact for Today

Hokkaido has 52 volcanoes, of which 9 are active. About 10% of Japan’s land area is volcanic! For more surprising facts, read Unlock Japan: Insider Tips & FAQs.

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Other Posts You May Like

Here are other places to add to your itinerary as you head south from Tohoku towards Nara.

Hokkaido: Northeast Into Nature’s Wonderland

Hidden Japanese Gems: From Miyako to Aomori

Japanese Gems: From Kinkasan to Hiraizumi

Explore Hidden Gems in the Japanese Alps

Why Nikko Japan Should Not Be Missed

Embracing ‘Kayama Country’

Why Kanazawa Should Be on Your Japan Bucket List

Why Nara Should Be on Your Japan Bucket List

Travel Tips and Guides

Guide to Japanese Culture

Hidden Features of Japan

Insider Tips & FAQs

Is Japan Beautiful

Abbreviations

Abbreviation	Meaning
Elev	Elevation
h	24-hour time
hrs	hours elapsed time
JPY	Japanese Yen
Max	Maximum
Mins	Minutes
OW	One Way
RT	Round Trip
USD	United States Dollar

Google Maps Ratings

Google Maps provides a rating from 0 to 5 for all sights, hotels, and restaurants (but not cities). All our recommendations are appended with the rating (prefixed with a G) from Google Maps. Google Ratings are based on feedback from locals as well as tourists. They are much more reliable than travel booking websites or tourist anecdotes.

We consider a score of 4 to 4.39 to be Very Good and 4.4 to 5 to be Excellent. Yet, in Japan, many must-see sights are rated by the Japanese as 4.2. Based on this, we would consider the range of 4.2 to 5 to be Excellent.

All photos and text © Terra Encounters
Except where noted CC BY-SA (Creative Commons Wikipedia)
Japan Encounters is a subsidiary of Terra Encounters

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Why Visit Hokkaido

Hokkaido is a large island located north of Honshu. Here is a place where you can immerse yourself in Japanese nature, culture and cuisine. It is also the best place in Japan to escape over-tourism. We did not even bother going to Sapporo.

Hokkaido is a nature lover’s dream with its volcanoes, lakes, hot springs, and hikes. We spent 14 days in Hokkaido. We have divided our trip into two posts: one for northeast Hokkaido and a second for southwest Hokkaido. Each one takes a week.

Author & Photographer: George Mitchell

George’s Bio

Our advice is not influenced by affiliate links — we have none. Our itineraries, photos, and advice come from three years of travelling around the world, including three months in Japan. We are avid hikers, nature lovers, and photographers. We are students of art and architecture, culture and cuisine.

All the sights in this itinerary can be found on our custom Japan Hokkaido Google Map. The points of interest are appended with their Google Maps Ratings, which range from G0 to G5.

Japanese Names

Name suffixes show the type of building. So “ji”, “dera” or “tera” is a generic Buddhist temple. The suffix “in” is a Buddhist temple in a garden, especially a Zen temple. For more useful information, see the Guide to the Japanese Language.

Generally, I write the names of sights in Japanese (Romaji) because asking for directions with English names will be futile. Writing Kōmyō-ji Temple is redundant, but sometimes I add “temple” for those readers who missed this section.

Northeast Hokkaido

On September 27th, we took the Hachinohe ferry to the port of Tomakomai. After leaving Tokyo, we headed to Hokkaido to hike before it got too cold or snowy. Our northernmost destination, Sounkyo Gorge, is at the same latitude as Toronto, Canada. This is one region in Japan where a rental car would let you easily see all the sights. We rarely had a problem hitchhiking around the northeast.

Mashū-ko Wintertime, CC BY SA Wikipedia

Obihiro

Tomakomai – Obihiro 204 km, 3:09 hrs.
Obihiro – Ashoro 65 km, 1:00 hrs.
Ashoro – Akankohan 55 km, 0:53 h

We met Yoshihiko on the Nissho Highway (Hidaka to Tokachi-Shimizu). He’s a 41-year-old drug salesman who speaks a few words of English. We arrived at Obihiro at noon, where he took us to visit his friend, also a drug salesman. They first gave us lemon tea. Then we tried herring roe from Canada. It was very piquant, but we probably would never buy it ourselves. Then they gave us a glass of milk and cookies while his friend’s wife made miso shiro soup, which we learned they simply added bean paste from a package to the water.

They served kuromai or black rice, a traditional heirloom grain. The blue-black outer bran layer is rich in anthocyanins, the same antioxidants found in blueberries and eggplants. It turns a vibrant purple when cooked. Then they served pickled plum (sour) and fried eggs! We were stuffed!

Yoshihiko was so eager to show us around – he had nothing to do as he had no work today. He brought us to a playing field with the longest bench in the world! We had told him we were going to Akan-ko. Instead of leaving us off at the Highway 242 junction, we found ourselves being driven to Ashoro. He insisted on parking until we got a lift. To our surprise, we didn’t get a ride in over 30 minutes – it usually only took a dozen minutes. A local woman said Monday was a bad day to “catch a car”, as the Japanese put it, due to little traffic! Then he grabbed our packs and said he would drive us. He also invited us to visit his family in Hakodate (next post) on our way back.

Akan-Mashu National Park

Akan-Ko

Auto: Tomakomai – Akankohan 295 km, 4:03 hrs
Train: Tomakomai – Shiranuka 3:23 hrs JPY 8400 – 12500 (USD 58 – 86)
+Taxi: Shiranuka – Akankohan 1:10 hrs JPY 22,000 – 27000 (USD 152 – 186)

Akan-Ko (G4.3) is located in a former caldera from a volcanic eruption 31,500 years ago. Akan-Kohan is a hot spring (onsen) resort. At the Akan-Kohan YH (Akan Kanko Hotel), we met two older Australian women who were backpacking in Japan for one month. They liked hiking and were also using the Lonely Planet guidebook. There was no internet then. At the supermarket, we bought lunch and snack supplies for hiking: peanuts, McVities digestive cookies, European bread, and peanut butter.

Lake Onnetō

Akankohan – Onnetō-ko 20 km, 0:21 hrs.

Meakan-dake from Onneto-ko

We headed to Lake Onnetō (G4.5), six km up Highway 949. It had a very beautiful green colour. We walked a very short path to the shore to take a photo of Me-Akan-dake (volcano) behind the lake. We continued walking to the end of the lake, but there was no sign of the hiking trail. People were trying to tell us to return to another track some 3.2 km earlier, where most Japanese hike up. We persisted and went up a side road behind a building, and sure enough, there was a sign.

Me-Akan Dake Trail

At 9:00 h, we started hiking through a heavily forested area with many tree roots. The grade became moderately steeper through a mainly coniferous forest.

After we reached the 2 km signpost (10:05 h), the forest changed to subalpine shrubby trees. We felt the full force of the bitter cold wind. Fortunately, we had ski jackets.

View from Me-Akan-dake, Hokkaido

We were finally high enough to get a good view of the green Lake Onnetō (10:29 h). There were no more signs, but the trail was well-marked with red lines and arrows. The trail continued to the right, around the back of the mountain. We reached a trail junction on a saddle between the two inactive volcanoes.

Meakan-dake Aerial View, CC BY-SA Wikipedia

The top was fascinating with a gaping, wide crater. Behind a small green pond, sulphurous steam rose from a couple of vents. As we walked around, we felt the draw of the deep crater. This was heightened by the steep drop-off from the rim. There were excellent views of Akan-ko and the Oakan Dake volcano.

View from Me-Akan-dake, Hokkaido, 90-035

We began the steep trail down (11:50 h), which was more open and very exposed to the wind. We met a handful of people, unlike the uphill track, where we were alone. We reached Highway 949 at 13:50 h.

Me-Akan Dake Details

Distance: 4.2 km OW uphill; 3.2 km OW downhill
Duration: 4:45 hrs. RT
Elev Gain: 876 m
Max. Elev: 1499 m

Bokke

We visited Bokke (G4.2), a very small set of bubbling mud pools on a short 1.5-km trail near the Akan-ko Eco-Museum Centre. Soon, the leaf-strewn forested path revealed the Bokke, a mud “volcano” where underground gases and water vapour push hot mud to the surface. We also saw steam-heated water near the shore to the right of the dock.

Mashu-Ko

Akankohan – Mashu-Ko 49 km, 0:58 hrs.
Bus 1: Akankohan – Teshikaga 0:50 hrs JPY 2500 3500 (USD 17 – 24)
Bus 2: Teshikaga – Mashu-Ko 0:20 hrs JPY 200 – 550 (USD 1.38 – 3.79)

At the Akankohan Museum, you can see a tank with marimo weed. The marimo weed acts like a submarine as it can rise or descend. We saw marimo weed for free at the shop just in front of YH. We left Akankohan at 09:38 h.

The Sokodai Pass viewpoint (G3.3) on Highway 241 was not worthwhile. You can only see a small part of Akan-ko. It was 3 km further to the Sogakudai Viewpoint (G4.0). It wasn’t special, but it provided a nice view of two volcanoes, Me-Akan (G4.7) and Oakan Dake (G4.3).

Mashu-ko & Mt Kamui

Mashu-Ko (G4.5) is a lake (Ko) with an incredibly intense blue colour. Steep crater walls rise 200 m above the lake. The lake is inside a 6 km wide volcanic caldera from a massive eruption in the Holocene Era (11,700 years ago after the end of the last Ice Age). Do you see a pattern here? Many Japanese lakes are former volcanic calderas.

Mashu-ko & Mt Kamui Wide Angle

Mashu-Ko Daichi Tembodai or Lake Mashu Observation Deck No.1 (G4.3) had a very good view. The lake was clear and had a different blue colour, especially along the shore. Volcanic mountains were sprinkled in the background. Many Japanese asked us to be in their photograph!

Io-san

Mashu-Ko – Io-san 15 km, 0:19 hrs

Io-san Overview

Io-san was very worthwhile. At our first view from the side of Lake Mashu-ko, Io-san looked like a barren, low mountain. As we approached, we saw the rising steam. We walked up the green-yellow stained rocks past steaming fumaroles and that smell!

Sulphurous Rock, Io-san

Higher up were many more bright yellow stained rocks. I went to photograph one and found myself enveloped suddenly by a foul, sulphurous cloud, which fogged up my glasses. It was suffocating and possibly toxic. So I held my breath and waited. I just looked it up on the Internet. Yes, the sulphurous steam can be dangerous to breathe, especially if you’re close to the vents. The steam holds hydrogen sulphide (H₂S), a toxic gas that smells like rotten eggs.

We looked at some sulphur crystals up close. Corinne touched them. They were quite hot. The steam vents can reach temperatures over 100°C.

Even though they dressed in jeans, it was incredible how Japanese women wore high heels on hiking trails! Older women were cooking eggs in saucepan-sized boiling pools. We had grilled corn on the cob and soft ice cream. Even nature sights came with snack services called sunakku in Japanese. Yes, there are several English words in Japanese.

Kussharo-Ko

Io-san – Kussharo-Ko 17 km, 0:19 hrs.

Kussharo-ko Reflections

We stayed at the Kussharo-Ko YH about 3 km past a town. It was part of the resort onsen, along the lake. In the living room with a bay window overlooking the lake, we met a nice girl from Czechoslovakia, studying chemistry in Tokyo.

Supper provided many different tastes: seaweed with a mint-sesame flavour, fried fish, romaine lettuce, spiced bean curd, bamboo shoots, soup, and rice. We had many experiences with onsen in Japan. Here we enjoyed a large bath lined with pebbles on the bottom and overflowing with very hot mineral water.

Bihoro-Toge (Pass)

Kussharo-Ko – Bihoro-Toge 19 km, 0:21 hrs.

Bihoro-Toge View, Kussharo-ko

The Bihoro-Toge viewpoint (G4.1) at the pass (toge) was very pretty. Lake Kussharo-ko (G4.5) was not a different colour.

Bihoro-Toge View, Kussharo-ko, 92-17

But the sky was azure and clear. The road switchbacked below through the trees.

Ainu People

Ainu Men and Woman, Bihoro-Toge, Kussharo-ko

The only commercialization was the usual tourist complex below the cliffs where bearded Ainu men posed for photos. The Ainu are an indigenous ethnic group who live in northern Japan and southeastern Russia. Ainu means ‘human’ in the Ainu language.

Most Japanese are descendants of the Yamato tribe, who migrated from northeastern Asia. The Ainu were colonized and assimilated by the Japanese since at least the 18th century. The children were forced to go to Japanese schools. They were banned from speaking the Ainu language. Only in 2019 did parliament (the Diet) pass an act recognizing the Ainu as an indigenous people of Japan.

Kitami

While we were at Bihoro-Toge, we met two girls. Eiko, on the left, spoke English very well. They were heading towards Sounkyo and gave us a lift.

Eiko & Friend Picnic, Kitami, 92-19

We had lunch on a farm road just west of Kitami (arr 12:26). They had salad and very good potato chips. The Japanese love sunakku.

Eiko has no brothers, and she is the eldest. It is expected that her parents will live with her forever. She can not marry the oldest son of a family as a result. She doesn’t like the idea of living with her parents. P.S.: This was decades ago.

Elderly Care

Farm Fields, Kitami, 92-20

Traditionally in Japan, elderly parents lived with their eldest son, especially in rural areas or within families that followed the ie system — a patriarchal household structure where the eldest son inherited the family estate and was expected to care for the aging parents.

Urbanization and modernization have led to a rise in nuclear families, with many elderly parents now living independently or in retirement communities.

Co-residence still happens, but it’s influenced by factors like the parents’ health, financial situation, and the children’s marital status or job location. Parents are more likely to live with their eldest son, even if he isn’t the oldest child, reflecting lingering cultural expectations

Daisetsuzan National Park

Kussharo-ko – Sounkyo 166 km 2:51 hrs.
Sapporo – Sounkyo 200 km 2:30 hrs.

Peaks just before town, Daisetsuzan NP

Sounkyo Onsen Youth Hostel

We stayed in Sounkyo for two days, as there were two main things to do: Sounkyo Gorge and the Kurodake Hike. We got our own room with tatami mats at the Sounkyo-Onsen Youth Hostel (YH). This was the busiest YH we had stayed at. Supper on our first day was very oily and not worthwhile. But on the second day, there was a special supper with a large quantity of salmon, very good sushi and fruit!

Kurodake – Hokuchin Dake Hike

Ropeway (aka cable car) ¥1950 RT (USD 14); Time: takes 7 mins.
Hours: summer (June to mid-October) 6 to 18 h

Chair Lift (ski tow) ¥600 RT (USD 4); Time: takes 13 mins
Hours: summer (June to mid-October) 6 to 17 h

View above the Cable Station, Daisetsuzan NP

As it was sunny, we did the Kurodake Hike first. Near the YH, we took a cable car to a platform above the upper station, where there were mobs of Japanese. There were good views with beautiful autumn colours and soft morning light. It was a clear, brisk day.
Autumn Leaves, Daisetsuzan NP
Then we took the ski tow to even better views.
Birch & Autumn Trees, Daisetsuzan NP, 92-32
The first part of the trail was muddy, which made the steady-uphill climb hard. There were good views towards Sounkyo and O Me-Akan-Dake once we were above the tree line.
View from Kurodake, Daisetsuzan NP
The view from Kurodake was really nice. It was October 1st, and patches of snow were already on the plateau.
Snow Plateau, Daisetsuzan NP
This was a worthwhile short trail, but many Japanese also walked here. Beautiful, windswept ice crystals clung to the rocks and signs.

Purple Heath? on Kurodake, Daisetsuzan NP

We descended to a red hut, 18 minutes below. There could be alpine flowers in this area. But we only saw green and purple plants. From here, the trail was easy, relaxing, and so quiet, with very few people.

Asahi-dake

Asahi-dake Crater, Daisetsuzan NP

After a short climb, we suddenly realized that we were on the edge of a crater (Asahi-dake). It was very wide, with water trickling down. The view was barren yet with some green and snow on the surrounding mountains.

View SE towards Snow Plateau, Daisetsuzan NP

Hokuchin Dake looked high, but the climb was not too difficult. But, as soon as we came on top of the ridge, the wind blew right through us. We were glad we brought our down jackets.

Alpine View, Daisetsuzan NP

The view from the top was very nice. But it was too hazy to see the coast. The view west was of a snow-covered trail heading along a ridge down to the valley.

People Rocks, Daisetsuzan NP

Because of the wind chill, we could only stay half an hour before heading down. The trail dried up a bit, and it was less slippery. We met up with Lesley Downer, who was also staying at the YH. We made it to the ski tow for 15:48 h. It was very quiet, but the views were now in the shade. The lighting was soft but not as special as early in the morning.

Sounkyo Gorge

Obako

Japanese Tour Group, Obako, Sounkyo Gorge

We drove 8.9 km (11 minutes) upstream so that we could walk down a gentle grade from the furthest point, Obako (Big Box). Here we captured the typical guided tour group taking the mandatory group photo. Japanese people seem to prefer travelling in groups.

Basalt Columns, Obako, Sounkyo Gorge

Obako has fluted basalt cliffs surrounding a river. The gorge is narrow and enclosed, hence why it is called Big Box (Obako).

Basalt Columns near Obako Waterfall, Sounkyo Gorge, 93-16

We walked through the tunnel of an old road (ca. 15 minutes). A small waterfall plunges through a gap in the cliff walls. Trees grow out of the rock midway up the cliffs, and some have colourful autumn leaves.

Pedway Crystals, Sounkyo Gorge

We walked for 60 minutes. along an old road now converted to a Pedway-Bicycle Path. It was short, but there were no cars or exhaust fumes, as traffic goes through a tunnel and misses the best part of the gorge.

Basalt

Basalt Columns, Sounkyo Gorge, Daisetsuzan NP

Why are there columns here? Lava cooled rapidly due to the river, creating five or six-sided basalt crystals. The vertical faces of the columns are weak, allowing a river to erode the basalt and form a canyon.

Basalt is the most common volcanic rock found in the Earth’s crust. It is a glassy rock, which makes sense since it primarily consists of silica or sand, the key ingredient of glass. If it has a rusty red colour, that indicates the presence of iron.

Basalt Columns, Sounkyo Gorge, Daisetsuzan NP

Most interesting were the large basalt-fluted cliffs. They looked like an accordion. The high cliffs were adorned with colourful autumn leaves. It was very quiet (few people). There were two more waterfalls (taki): Iwa Ma No Taki (690 m off the path) and Kin Shi No Taki (800 m).

Ha Goromo Iwa Curved Basalt, Sounkyo Gorge

Ha Goromo Iwa (890 m) had interesting curved strata caused by tectonic forces. All places are signposted. Most of the things on the left side were in the shade, even though it was noon. Several men bicycled past us in business suits!

Ginga-No-Taki

Ginga-no-taki, Sounkyo Gorge, 92-25

Ginga-No-Taki (G4.3) was the best waterfall. Unfortunately, it was along the highway. The best overall view is from the upper end of the parking lot. But you can better see a veil-like effect when you are close up.

Ryusei-No-Taki

Basalt Columns, Sounkyo Gorge, Daisetsuzan NP

We walked c. 200 m along the river. Ryusei-No-Taki (G4.3) was an okay waterfall. We continued to walk, but at this point, there really wasn’t anything interesting left to see.

Picnic Area

Autumn Trees, Obako, Sounkyo Gorge

Just before the road into town, we crossed a pedestrian-only bridge to a grassy picnic area among the trees. There was a booklet with all the hiking trails on Hokkaido being sold at the Sounkyo YH. Unfortunately, it is only in Kanji.

Lesley Downer

We learned a lot about Japanese culture by talking with people and living with Japanese families. We wrote about our experiences in the Guide to Japanese Social Norms. We learned quite a bit from Lesley Downer, whom we met at the Sounkyo Onsen Youth Hostel. She was 33 years old at that time and taught English at a university. She had lived in Japan for 3 years in Gifu.

Tea Ceremony, Urasenke, Kyoto

Located north of Nagoya, Gifu was a very conservative community. But it also had many people who were interested in traditional things. She learned Ikebana (flower arrangement), pottery, chado (tea ceremony), and Zen. Zen principles have had a major impact on Japanese art and culture.

Culture Lesson

Relationships

Women are expected to marry by 24; otherwise, something is wrong. Men stay out until midnight and get drunk. They can talk about sports all the time. It takes a long time to develop a friendship: The Japanese are like the English. It is difficult to meet people in Japan who like deep relationships; they can’t talk about themselves as individuals, nor ask personal questions.

Politeness

School Kids Bowing Good Morning, Shofukuji, Fukuoka

Politeness is very important in Japan. It is not polite to talk while eating. Some young people do talk. Japanese usually think about others. On the other hand, they are very indirect. They say things they don’t mean. They may say that you must come to visit me. But they never give their address. They can also tell you off in the most polite way – her former landlady told her how messy her kitchen was.

Language

Lesley speaks Japanese very well. There are many levels of communication, depending on the status of the person you are addressing. A lot of communication is nonverbal or intuitive. The aim of conversation is harmony, not communication. She says “hai” (yes) even when she doesn’t understand.

Kabuki

Shunkan Kabuki Play, Kyoto

Only men act, but the ones who portray women are superb. Tamasaburō Bandō V is one of the most celebrated onnagata — male actors who specialize in female roles. Get a Kabuki handbook in English. Ask the Tourist Information Centre (TIC) for current productions.

Compliments

Japanese always give compliments – you’re intelligent, beautiful – that you start to believe them. One reason foreigners like to stay in Japan is that they receive no criticism.

Gifts

Kokeshi Dolls, Gift of the Umetsu Family, Yamagata

Always give a gift if you stay at a Japanese home. The longer one plans to stay, the better the gift. Go to an expensive store. Wrapping is important. It is all show and pretense. It doesn’t matter what you bring. One time, she got baby blue booties. When you give your gift (to the wife), say “Please accept this miserable, cheap gift”, even though it is not.

Omotenashi, the Japanese concept of hospitality, also applies to guests. Offering a gift when a guest admires an object is an extension of this hospitality.

Affluence & Status

Show and status are very important. The Japanese toss away used or even slightly damaged things. If clothes are torn, they throw them out. If a woman wears a mended top, they think she is poor and go and buy her a new one! They throw out “old” equipment and buy the latest models! Many would rather buy a new car than pay for an expensive car checkup (every 3 years). As a result, the Japanese don’t maintain their cars.

Parties

Everyone makes a speech (boring) about anything. Then they eat. After the meal, they sing songs. Endings are always abrupt.

From Hokkaido, we headed south to Tohoku (Northern Honshu), as described in Explore Hidden Japanese Gems: From Miyako to Aomori.

Hokkaido Resources

Japan Hokkaido Google Map, our custom Google itinerary

Destinations – Hokkaido, JNTO Website

First-Time Guide to Hokkaidō, Lonely Planet Website

Hokkaido Love, Hokkaido Official Tourism Website

Other Places to See

You can find many hidden gems in Hokkaido. That does NOT mean there will be no visitors. Most tourists in Japan are domestic, and the Japanese are well aware of these “hidden gems”. Here are a few places to consider when you’re seeking a more tranquil experience.

Cherry Blossom Places

Hokkaido’s cherry blossom (sakura) season arrives later than the rest of Japan, typically in late April to early May. Similarly to temples, why do you have to go to the well-known cherry blossom places? There are several off-the-beaten-path spots where you can enjoy quiet cherry blossom viewing:

Lesser-Visited Sakura Places

Overcrowded Sakura Places

Wisteria Blossom Places

You can see wisteria from late May to early June, depending on location. This is outside the over-touristed Cherry Blossom and holiday season, which is April in Central Honshu.

Sapporo Weather

Hokkaido Best Time

May to September has the best high temperatures of 21.8°C (71.2°F). August is the hottest month, with an average high of 25°C (77°F). November is getting very cold with a high temperature of 7°C (44.6°F), and winter is frigid. The rainiest months are August (140 mm) and September (125 mm).

[strong][strong][strong][strong][strong]Hokkaido[/strong][/strong][/strong][/strong]Getting Around[/strong]

Hakodate is the southern port city of 234,700 people.
Tōyako has a population of 7,832 people.
Kamikawa (Sōunkyō) is a small town with 3,200 people.
Sapporo is a major city with 2.65 million people.

If you are travelling by bus or train, you may have to exclude the places that are only accessible by rental car or taxi. The places best suited for a rental car are Akan-ko, Io-san, Kussharo-ko, and Noboribetsu Onsen. Here are the train and bus fares from the Rome2Rio app:

If you are planning to see multiple, distant areas, check out a multi-city airfare.

Final Comments

We hope this post will encourage you to visit the intriguing Tohoku and escape the over-tourism of central Honshu island.

Surprising Fact for Today

Hokkaido has 52 volcanoes, of which 9 are active. About 10% of Japan’s land area is volcanic! For more surprising facts, read Unlock Japan: Insider Tips & FAQs.

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Other Posts You May Like

Here are other places to add to your itinerary as you head south from Tohoku towards Nara.

Hokkaido: Northeast Into Nature’s Wonderland

Hidden Japanese Gems: From Miyako to Aomori

Japanese Gems: From Kinkasan to Hiraizumi

Explore Hidden Gems in the Japanese Alps

Why Nikko Japan Should Not Be Missed

Embracing ‘Kayama Country’

Why Kanazawa Should Be on Your Japan Bucket List

Why Nara Should Be on Your Japan Bucket List

Travel Tips and Guides

Guide to Japanese Culture

Hidden Features of Japan

Insider Tips & FAQs

Is Japan Beautiful

Abbreviations

Google Maps Ratings

Google Maps provides a rating from 0 to 5 for all sights, hotels, and restaurants (but not cities). All our recommendations are appended with the rating (prefixed with a G) from Google Maps. Google Ratings are based on feedback from locals as well as tourists. They are much more reliable than travel booking websites or tourist anecdotes.

We consider a score of 4 to 4.39 to be Very Good and 4.4 to 5 to be Excellent. Yet, in Japan, many must-see sights are rated by the Japanese as 4.2. Based on this, we would consider the range of 4.2 to 5 to be Excellent.

All photos and text © Terra Encounters
Except where noted CC BY-SA (Creative Commons Wikipedia)
Japan Encounters is a subsidiary of Terra Encounters

Why Visit Tohoku

Tohoku is located north of Sendai. Here is a place where you can immerse yourself in Japanese nature, culture and cuisine. It is also the best place in Japan to get away from over-tourism.

This post is a multi-day road trip in the southern part of Tohoku. This itinerary covers the very popular Matsushima and Kinkasan Island.

Author & Photographer: George Mitchell

George’s Bio

Our advice is not influenced by affiliate links — we have none. Our itineraries, photos, and advice come from three years of travelling around the world, including three months in Japan. We are avid hikers, nature lovers, and photographers. We are students of art and architecture, culture and cuisine.

All the sights in this itinerary can be found on our custom Japan Tohoku Google Map. The points of interest are appended with their Google Maps Ratings, which range from G0 to G5.

Japanese Names

Name suffixes show the type of building. So “ji”, “dera” or “tera” is a generic Buddhist temple. The suffix “in” is a Buddhist temple in a garden, especially a Zen temple. For more useful information, see the Guide to the Japanese Language.

Generally, I write the names of sights in Japanese (Romaji) because asking for directions with English names will be futile. Writing Kōmyō-ji Temple is redundant, but sometimes I add “temple” for those readers who missed this section.

Southern Tohoku

It was September 17th, and we had just finished seeing the Reitai-sai Festival in Kamakura. Rather than going to Kyoto next, we decided to head north. We wanted to go hiking in Hokkaido before it got too cold. We took a train to get out of Tokyo then we hitchhiked to Sendai. Tohoku is the northernmost region of Honshu island. It stretches from Fukushima in the southern Tohoku to Aomori in the north.

We got a lift with a truck driver who spoke no English. He went out of his way to leave us at a supermarket in Iwanuma. We got another lift quickly with Katsuichi Katagi, a 33-year-old engineer. He bicycled across Europe for three months. He used his CB radio to find drivers heading to our destination, Kinkazan Island! Then he spoke with his wife and invited us to his home. We had supper with them — cuttlefish, octopus (raw), salad, and delicious edamame. We also had a tea similar to Longqing (Dragon Well) from Hangzhou, China.

Tōhoku Earthquake

2011 Tohoku Tsunami, Miyako, CC BY SA Wikipedia

The 2011 Tōhoku earthquake had a massive 9.1 magnitude. It was the most powerful earthquake in Japan, and the fourth most powerful earthquake in the world since seismography began in 1900. The undersea earthquake triggered powerful tsunami waves as high as 40.5 m (133 ft) in Miyako. The tsunami moved at 700 kph (435 mph) and travelled up to 10 km (6 mi) inland!

2011 Tohoku Earthquake, Nuclear Power Plant, Fukushima, CC BY SA Wikipedia

The tsunami caused the Fukushima Daiichi nuclear disaster. The meltdown of three of its reactors led to the discharge of radioactive water. We were worried about how this has impacted the region. Apparently, things are now back to normal.

Matsushima

Matsushima is a smaller city just north of Sendai. The youth hostel (YH) gave us our own room (4 bunk beds). It was very clean, but Corinne had an allergic reaction to something and couldn’t sleep at all! We ate breakfast in the meeting room. It was very quiet with only four other people!

Kinkasan Island

Fee: JPY 900 (USD 6.25) one-way
Ferry: 20–35 minutes from Ayukawa port
Boats: SeaDream, Kinkasan Kanko Cruise and Ajishima Line
Frequency: Some ferries run every two hours; more frequently during peak season

Tetsuya (~ 45 years old) and his wife Katsuyo Taketani picked us up from the YH at 10:00 h. They could not speak English. Yet they had offered via the ham radio the previous day to take us to Kinkasan Island! The generosity of the Japanese amazed us.

Katsuyu & Tetsuya Taketani, Kobaruto Line Viewpoint

The first part of the 1.5 hr drive was uneventful. The Tabaruto Line toll road was more interesting, with lots of forest. The hillside drive had open views. The first viewpoint of scattered islands sprinkled on the ocean was particularly good.

We arrived at the port of Ayukawa at 11:30 h and departed on the 12:30 ferry. The Taketani came with us on the ferry. Maybe they wanted to make sure we got there safely? To the left of the wharf, we walked with them up a short but steep climb to an important shrine. Corinne was very out of breath because of her constricted lungs. This was due to mould and lack of sleep at the Matsushima YH.

Koganeyama Shrine

Fee: free
Hours: 07:00 to 16:30; Winter closes at 16:00

Bronze Burner, Koganeyama Shrine, Kinkasan

The Koganeyama Shrine (G4.5) is a Shinto shrine where Japanese seek blessings for wealth and good fortune. The old wooden temple had a large bell which people would ring, put in a donation, and then clap their hands. You can see the long pull cord on the right side of the image above.

Kinkasan means Gold Mountain. Gold was found on the island.

Katsuyu writing wish, Koganeyama Shrine, Kinkasan

We had to ask the Motsu-Ji YH warden for a room together. He tried to make out as if he was doing a big favour, bending the rules (not true)! In a big contrast to Matsushima YH, they wouldn’t serve supper or breakfast to a German couple with a baby who arrived at 18:00 hrs! You had to order by 17:00 hrs. Not everyone is nice in Japan!

Katsuyo and other Japanese wrote out a wish on an ema or wooden plaque. Then they hung the ema on a wishing board. The gods are believed to get the messages and (hopefully) grant the wishes.

Ebisu & Daikokuten Bronze Statues, Koganeyama Shrine, Kinkasan

At the entrance, there is a torii gate and two bronze statues. These statues represents two of the Seven Gods of Fortune. They symbolize prosperity and abundance in Japanese culture. There is also has a unique ritual here where visitors wash their credit cards in one of the fountains next to the statues to obtain wealth and fortune.

Ebisu Statue, Koganeyama Shrine, Kinkasan

Ebisu, the god of fishermen and commerce, wears a joyful smile. He holds a fish around his neck, symbolizing bountiful catches and success. The temple has housed an image of the god of good fortune since its foundation in the eighth century.

Daikokuten Statue, Koganeyama Shrine, Kinkasan

Daikokuten is the god of wealth and agriculture. He carries a treasure sack and a mallet, signifying financial prosperity and protection for merchants and farmers.

Kinkasan Youth Hostel

Etched Bronze on Stairs, Koganeyama Shrine, Kinkasan

The Kinkasan Youth Hostel was next to the shrine. It had very large tatami dorm rooms. At first, they wanted us to separate, but there were no other people at the hostel! After a phone call, we got a separate room. But it was also very moldy — they didn’t keep the doors open to air out the rooms. But the form was bilingual, so it was easy to order supper and breakfast. We stayed here for 3 days.

Finally, we got to enjoy the best part of the YH. But we were told that we had to go there at 17:00 hrs! The Japanese men (and I) sat on plastic stools and used a hand shower in the shower room. Then we entered the very hot stainless steel pool. The second story hot pool had views of the forest throughout the glass canopy. Monkeys climbed over the glass roof to watch us! Wow! This is a reversal of the Jigokudani Monkey Park, where humans go to watch macaques in the hot springs.

Tony, a 22-year-old Kiwi, came on the second night. He had lived in Japan for 18 months. He told us that companies don’t pay that well, but they provide many fringe benefits: dinners after work, vacations (in the past without spouses), and two bonuses per year. They often learn English because it is something to do, or the company tells them to.

Sen Nin Sawa – Nio Zake Trail

Hiking Trails, Kinkasan Island
It may have been expat Tony who told us to go on this route in orange and translated the Kanji into Romaji and English. The whole trail took us 2:48 hrs. walking time plus stops for lunch (1:18 hrs.), views, and photos.

We walked up the stairs at 10:30 to the shrine. The trail continued for five minutes to the right, passing through a small torii gate. We continued our pleasant uphill walk.

Corinne on the Stewartia serrata root trail, Kinkasan

There were trees whose roots spread visibly across the ground. I wrote “streara trees” in our diary. But according to AI, they were probably Stewartia serrata, a tree species known for its beautiful flowers. The island is covered with dense bamboo groves, proving our point that you do not have to go to Arashiyama Bamboo Grove in over-touristed Kyoto.

After about 37 minutes, we saw a small shrine with Jizo figures. We passed the shortcut trail junction to Niozake.

Deer, Kinkasan

At about 40 minutes into the walk, we saw deer and wild monkeys on the trail. They fled up the trees.

Kinkasan Peak

View of Islands, Kinkasan Peak

After 47 minutes, we saw the nicest view just before reaching Kinkasan Peak. Looking north, we saw some islands. The views east at the top are just open seas; west, hilly mainland. We ate lunch at noon after looking at a small, locked shrine. There were picnic tables just below the peak and before the trail junction signpost.

We veered left on a very steep trail with lots of rocks. There were mainly deciduous trees (maples?) and ferns. The only people we saw were a school group.

Sennin Sawa

View left of Senjingsawa, Kinkasan

Senjojiki is a scenic coastal area known for its dramatic rock formations and breathtaking ocean views. The name “Senjojiki” means “a thousand tatami mats,” referring to the flat, layered rock formations that resemble traditional Japanese flooring.

At 14:00 h, we arrived at Sennin Sawa, a narrow but deep gorge.

View south of Senjingsawa, Kinkasan

This was a highlight of the hike. Broad, smoothed-out rocks were on our right. With the sun finally appearing, we sat down and took in the view. We watched waves foaming over the rocky coast. Unfortunately, no islands were visible, just open sea.

Obako was another nice viewpoint with three islands to the north. The trail continues along the pounding coast to Sai No Kawala. The next section has many ups and downs with stairs.

Splendid Earth-boring Beetle (Geotrupes splendidus), Kinkasan

We saw this metallic purple Splendid Earth-boring Beetle. It was a creature like in a sci-fi movie. The males dig burrows under decaying fungi, creating tunnels 5 to 8 inches deep, where they attract females. It is active at night, feeding mostly on fungi. Its antennae have flared tips, which help it detect odours in the soil.
Paeonia obovata, Kinkasan
We did not even know what this plant was — there were no apps in those days. These are seeds of the Paeonia obovata. Native to Northeast Asia, its common name is Woodland peony. After blooming, it produces eye-catching seed pods—when ripe, they open to reveal glossy blue-black seeds against a bright red interior, adding late-season visual interest. It has cultural significance, with its purple blooms symbolizing love, prosperity, and healing in various traditions

Parts of the trail were overgrown. We saw two dark green snakes and Fudu Go ya, an old little hut.

Kan Ka Ho Deer

Deer in Park, Kinkasan

Kan Ka Ho (Watch Deer Peak) is located near the port. It was a good place to photograph deer on the grassy slopes with islands and a coastline in the background.

Deer, Kinkasan

Kinkasan has over 500 deer that freely roam the island, like the deer in Nara Park. Deer are viewed as messengers of the gods in the Shinto religion.

Skai Yama Koen Deer

Deer, Kinkasan

Skai Yama Koen (Seer Mountain Park) is located near the port. We watched male (antlered) deer in a large pen feeding on branches. We saw a very short episode of sparring with antlers. Sparring typically occurs outside the peak mating season (the rut) and is a way for bucks to test each other’s strength without serious injury.

Ikayaki

George is eating squid, Kinkasan

At the port, we had one of the most tasty delicacies in Japan! The barbecued squid dish is Ikayaki—a popular street food where squid is grilled whole and brushed with a soy sauce glaze.

Japanese Social Problems

We climbed up the road to the shrine YH at 16:48 hrs, just in time for another great bath! We met Tony, who told us that if a gaijin marries a Japanese woman, he does not automatically get citizenship! He could still be rejected when he applies after five years of residency in Japan. There is no guarantee.

There is high pressure to do well in exams in high school to get into college. Tony told us two girls holding hands jumped together in front of a train.

Suicide is a serious issue among Japanese teens. In 2024, Japan recorded a record number of 529 student suicides. The suicide rate for all age groups in Japan was 16.3 per 100,000 people compared to the USA, 14.7; France, 13.7; Canada, 13; and the UK, 10.7.

It is not that there are not enough universities. The pressure is due to the intense competition for admission to prestigious institutions. Many companies prioritize graduates from elite universities, reinforcing the importance of exam success.

Around 40% of Japanese aged 25 to 64 have completed tertiary education. In Canada, it is 60%; UK, 51%; USA, 48%; and France, 42%.

The next morning, we had cuttlefish for breakfast. We took the 10:00 h ferry and met a photographer who offered us a lift! It took 1.5 hrs. to get to Matsushima.

Matsushima Kaigan

We left our backpacks outside his photography shop in the middle of Matsushima Kaigan. He told us no one would take our backpacks!

Godaido, Matsushima, CC BY SA Wikipedia

The small Godaido (Hall) was on a pine-clad islet next to the photo shop. We ate lunch here and admired the good view of the old wooden temple. It was originally founded in 807 CE and later rebuilt in 1604. The hall’s exterior features carvings of the twelve animals of the lunar calendar, adding a unique artistic touch

The red Sukashi Bridge was purposefully designed with gaps between the planks to encourage careful, mindful crossing. This is a Zen principle. The temple sits on a small islet near the pier, making it a symbol of Matsushima

View of Islands, Matsushima

Matsushima Kaigan is a scenic coastal area famous for its stunning views of Matsushima Bay, which is dotted with over 200 pine-covered islands. It has been celebrated as one of Japan’s Three Most Scenic Views. In the peak summer season, there are sightseeing cruises to enjoy the breathtaking island scenery.

Zuigan-ji Temple

Fee: JPY 700 (USD 4.80)
Hours: Apr-Sep 08:30 to 17:00

Zuigan-ji View, Matsushima, CC BY-SA Wikipedia

Zuigan-ji (G4.4) is located in the town of Matsushima. Due to its protected location in Matsushima Bay, the temple escaped severe damage during the 2011 Tōhoku tsunami.

Bell grillwork and Brackets, Zuigan-ji, Matsushima

Originally founded in 828 CE, it is one of the most important Zen temples in Japan.

Yōtoku-in Mausoleum, Zuigan-ji, Matsushima, CC BY-SA Wikipedia

It was rebuilt in 1609 by Date Masamune, the powerful daimyo of Sendai, using craftsmen from Kyoto. This mausoleum is the final resting place of Mego-hime, the wife of daimyo Masamune. The mausoleum is coated in black lacquer, creating a striking contrast with its gold fittings and polychrome-painted details. Does the paint job look too new to date back to 1609? The structure underwent a three-year restoration beginning in 2006, ensuring its historical beauty remains intact

Peacock Carving, Zuigan-ji, Matsushima

Its main hall and living quarters are designated National Treasures, featuring gilded sliding doors (fusuma) and intricate wood carvings. There were many tour groups.

Zuigan-ji Caves, Matsushima, CC BY-SA Wikipedia

Zuigan-ji also features several caves carved into the rock. These caves were used for memorial services and housed the ashes of the deceased. The caves were constructed in the Kamakura Period and remained in use until the Edo Period.

The couple who ran the hostel were friendly. The woman spoke English and Spanish. They gave us a room together without our asking. There was no problem ordering supper at 17:00 hrs. Keep this point in mind for later in this post.

They cooked a great meal just for the two of us. They even asked us what kind of protein we wanted, and we chose chicken. The tea was excellent. At night, we talked with other guests and a boy who works at YH. They served coffee/tea.

Otakamori

Otakamori View of Islands, Matsushima

Ōtakamori (G4.3) on Miyato Island is one of the 4 Famous Places to view Matsushima Bay, and a good place to catch the sunset over the island.

Miyato Island (G5.0) is connected to the mainland by a bridge. It was a short 13 minutes uphill. Here was a nice viewpoint of a bay of islands. The best rock and island formations are off the east coast of Miyato. Cruise ships circle the island only in the summer. The trail to Murohama is also supposed to be nice.

Furukawa

Tomohisa Sato, a sauna salesman, gave us a lift. He offered to drive us to our destination, Hiraizumi, which was further than his home. On the way north, he invited us to stay at his house. First, we drove to his office. His boss directed all his questions to me. Then we drove through Furukawa to the home that Tomohisa built.

Tomohisa & Shoko Sato at dinner, Furukawa

His wife, Shoko Sato, was very welcoming and tried to please. They were going to order a sushi meal, but we told her not to trouble herself. We had a great homemade supper. Kombu (kelp seaweed) was served as a dish of dry strips. Added to the soup, it turned into a slippery, sensuous mass. This was accompanied by delicious tofu with ginger shreds and wasabi on top (green, strong horseradish), takuwa yellow radish pickles (not too great), natto fermented soybeans (ugh), and breaded fish mixture (delish).

They showed us a beautiful book on Hokkaido. Because we liked it so much, they wanted to give it to us. Omotenashi, the Japanese concept of hospitality, involves anticipating and fulfilling the needs of guests. Offering a gift when someone admires an object is an extension of this hospitality. As we were only two weeks into our Japan trip, we did not know these customs. We refused such a generous gift. They gave us two bookmarks instead.

Wedding Kimonos

Corinne & George in Wedding Kimonos

Shoko makes kimonos. Traditional kimonos are silk and are made by hand. They brought out their wedding kimonos, coral (hers) and navy blue (his), which we tried on. They took a picture of us. Kimonos are very simple but so elegant. The male kimono is called a hakama. I formal cotton robes are called yakata.

Tomohisa & Shoko Sato House Shrine, Furukawa

We photographed the wooden shrine on the wall. They believe in a Japanese sect.

Corinne on Futon & Quilts, Furukawa

I photographed the quilt, futon, and tatami mats that we comfortably slept on in a typical Japanese bedroom.

Hiraizumi

Hiraizumi was the next major town further north. We used it as a base to see several attractions.

Motsu-Ji

Fee: JPY 700 (USD 4.80)
Hours: 08:30 to 17:00

Motsu-ji, Hiraizumi, CC BY-SA Wikipedia

There was nothing special about the temple at Mōtsū-ji (G4.2). It was not worth visiting, except that entry is free to those staying at the temple-run YH. The site was remarkable for its Pure Land Buddhist garden, which represents the Buddhist vision of paradise. Originally founded in 850 by Ennin, the temple flourished in the 12th century under the powerful and famous Fujiwara clan. This is the same powerful clan described in the Discover 3 Charming Hidden Gems in Crowded Kyoto post.

Mōtsū-ji once had 40 temple buildings and 500 priests. Though the structures were lost to fire, the garden remains perfectly preserved, showcasing a large pond, islands, peninsulas, and carefully arranged rocks that mimic a coastal landscape

Motsu-Ji YH

The bunk beds had nice, warm quilts, but the hostel was cold. Supper was cold, even the soup. Service was nonexistent. Breakfast wasn’t worth it: mainly lettuce, 1/4 tomato, a piece of fish, and rice.

Chuson-ji

Fee: JPY 1000 (USD 6.85)
Hours: 08:30 to 17:00
Hondo, Chuson-ji, Hiraizumi, CC BY-SA Wikipedia
We walked uphill between tall conifers to Chūson-ji (G4.4). The various halls were not too exciting.

Chuson-ji, Hiraizumi, CC BY-SA Wikipedia

Inside a modern building was the most incredible spot. Konjiki-dō is a stunning golden hall that stands as a masterpiece of Heian-period Buddhist art. Unfortunately, photography was not allowed, and we could only see from a distance behind glass walls. Completed in 1124, it is entirely covered in gold leaf, both inside and out, creating a breathtaking sight. It showcases exquisite craftsmanship, including mother-of-pearl inlays, lacquerware, and intricate wood carvings.

Stele, Chuson-ji, Hiraizumi

We found a small stele and rock piles.

Takkoku-No-Iwaya

Fee: JPY 500 (USD 3.43)
Hours: 08:00 to 17:00 Walk: 5 km from Motsu-ji

Takkoku-no-iwaya exterior, Hiraizumi

We walked from Motsu-Ji along a nice, quiet road through farmland. Takkoku-No-Iwaya (G4.3) did not offer much to see. However, it was a unique temple built against the rock face of a cliff, creating a dramatic and photogenic atmosphere.

Takkoku-no-iwaya interior, Hiraizumi

Established in 801 CE, Takkoku-No-Iwaya was dedicated to Bishamon to commemorate victories over the indigenous Emishi tribes. Bishamon is the Japanese name for Vaiśravaṇa (Sanskrit), a Hindu god.

Bishamon is the same god statue that we saw in the Nandaimon Gate, Nara. He is the god of war and punishes people who do evil things. Bishamon is usually shown wearing armour and holding a spear in one hand and a small pagoda in the other. The pagoda symbolizes the divine treasure house, which holds things he guards or gives away.

Geibikei Gorge

Fee: JPY 1800 (USD 12)
Hours: Apr-Nov 08:00 to 16:00

Geibikei Gorge is 8 km from Motsu-ji. We hitchhiked, and typically, the man (an engineer) went out of his way to bring us all the way there.

Geibikei Gorge entrance, Ichinoseki

Geibikei Gorge (G4.4) is a natural wonder, known for its serene river cutting through 50 to 120 metre-high limestone cliffs.
Boat Tour, Geibikei Gorge, Ichinoseki
The highlight is the traditional flat-bottomed boat tour.

Boat Tour, Geibikei Gorge, Ichinoseki

There were only Japanese tourists here. It was a chance to see how the snack-obsessed Japanese relax.

Boat Man, Geibikei Gorge, Ichinoseki

The return trip took 90 minutes. Boatman navigated the river using a pole while singing local folk songs.

Geibikei Gorge entrance, Ichinoseki

Geibikei is approximately two km long. Fanciful rock formations were created by erosion and numerous waterfalls. The name “Geibi”, which means “lion nose”, comes from a limestone formation near the end of the ravine, which resembles a lion’s snout.

Geibikei Gorge, Ichinoseki

At the turnaround point, you can try your luck by throwing “undama” (lucky stones) into a hole in the cliff. This is believed to bring good fortune

Boat Man, Geibikei Gorge, Ichinoseki

It was not a must-see, but it is loved by the Japanese (it has a fairly high Google Maps rating). For us, it was more of a cultural experience. However, this is a prime wisteria site in blossom season (mid-May).

Wanko Soba

Wanko soba (JPY 1300-2200) is a style of Japanese soba noodles that originated here in Iwate Prefecture (province). Wanko is a local dialect word meaning “bowl”, or more specifically, “small soup bowl”.

George eating wanko soba, Hiraizumi

We went to a restaurant on the left hand side of the road to the Hiraizumi station. It was a very nice experience, though, we wouldn’t order it again — very little protein, just two slices of sashimi. Instead of one plate of buckwheat noodles, we got a dozen lacquered bowls with small amounts of noodles. We dipped these one at a time into the sauce bowl. Then we added a small amount of shallots and other condiments. It was very tasty.

Tohoku Resources

Japan Tohoku Google Map, our custom Google itinerary

Other Places to See

You can find hidden gems in Tohoku. That does NOT mean there will be no visitors. Most tourists in Japan are domestic, and the Japanese are well aware of these “hidden gems”. Here are a few places to consider when you’re seeking a more tranquil experience.

Cherry Blossom Places

Similarly to temples, why do you have to go to the well-known cherry blossom places? There are several off-the-beaten-path spots where you can enjoy quiet cherry blossom viewing amid traditional backdrops:

Tsuruga Castle, Fukushima, is known for 1,000 Somei Yoshino (cultivar) cherry blossom trees and nighttime illuminations.

Kakunodate is the samurai district in Akita, featuring streets and courtyards shaded by cherry blossom trees.

Wisteria Blossom Places

You can see wisteria from mid-May to early June, depending on location. This is outside the over-touristed Cherry Blossom and holiday season, which is April in Central Honshu.

Geibikei Gorge

Blooming Period: Late May to early June

Tonose Fuji no Sato is located just south of Hirosaki. You need a car to get to this remote wisteria garden. You will be rewarded by a tapestry of differently colored wisteria trees growing next to rows of flooded rice paddies.

Blooming Period: Around mid-May

Hours: 9:00 – 16:30 during blossom season only!

Cost: JPY 1000

Sendai Weather

[strong][strong]Sendai [/strong]Best Time[/strong]

May, June, September, and October have the best high temperatures of 20 °C (67.6°F). July to September are the rainiest months. August is the hottest month, with an average high of 28°C (82.4°F).

Sendai Getting Around

Sendai is a city of 1.1 million people. Matsushima has 12,436 people. Hiraizumi is a small town of 6500 people.

Get the Rome2Rio app if you are travelling by bus or train. Generally, it is much faster to travel by train. These are the train fares and times.

If you are not renting a car but plan to see multiple, distant areas, then consider a multi-city airfare.

Final Comments

George eating wanko soba, Hiraizumi

We hope this post will encourage you to visit the intriguing Tohoku and escape the over-tourism of central Honshu island.

Surprising Fact for Today

Usually, making noise is frowned upon in Japan. But slurping noodles loudly is considered polite and shows appreciation for the meal. I don’t think I did that when I ate the soba! For more surprising facts, read Unlock Japan: Insider Tips & FAQs.

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Google Maps Ratings

Google Maps provides a rating from 0 to 5 for all sights, hotels, and restaurants (but not cities). All our recommendations are appended with the rating (prefixed with a G) from Google Maps. Google Ratings are based on feedback from locals as well as tourists. They are much more reliable than travel booking websites or tourist anecdotes.

We consider a score of 4 to 4.39 to be Very Good and 4.4 to 5 to be Excellent. Yet, in Japan, many must-see sights are rated by the Japanese as 4.2. Based on this, we would consider the range of 4.2 to 5 to be Excellent.

All photos and text © Terra Encounters
Except where noted CC BY-SA (Creative Commons Wikipedia)
Japan Encounters is a subsidiary of Terra Encounters

Why Visit Tohoku

Tohoku is a region located north of Sendai. Here, you can immerse yourself in Japanese nature, culture and cuisine. It is also the best place in Japan to escape from overtourism.

This post is a multi-day road trip in the less-visited northern part of Tohoku. This itinerary covers:

• The jagged cliffs of the Sanriku Coast,
• The waterfalls of the Oirase Stream walk,
• The steaming hot springs of Towada-Hachimantai National Park,
• Hiking up Tazawa-Komagatake volcano, and
• The 400-year-old samurai houses in Kakunodate.

Author & Photographer: George Mitchell

George’s Bio

Our advice is not influenced by affiliate links — we have none. Our itineraries, photos, and advice come from three years of travelling around the world, including three months in Japan. We are avid hikers, nature lovers, and photographers. We are students of art and architecture, culture and cuisine.

All the sights in this itinerary can be found on our custom Japan Tohoku North Google Map. The points of interest are appended with their Google Maps Ratings, which range from G0 to G5.

Japanese Names

Name suffixes show the type of building. So “ji”, “dera” or “tera” is a generic Buddhist temple. The suffix “in” is a Buddhist temple in a garden, especially a Zen temple. For more useful information, see the Guide to the Japanese Language.

Generally, I write the names of sights in Japanese (Romaji) because asking for directions with English names will be futile. Writing Kōmyō-ji Temple is redundant, but sometimes I add “temple” for those readers who missed this section.

Sanriku Coast

It was September 24th, and we had just finished seeing Geibikei Gorge in Tohoku, the northernmost region of Honshu island. From Geibikei, we headed north along the Sanriku Coast.

Rikuzentakata

Ayukawa–Rikuzentakata 134 km, 2:07 hrs

We arrived in Rikuzentakata at 16:30 h. We stayed at the Youth Hostel (YH) as it was too late to continue. The supper was good: fried fish, rice, egg soup, tea, shredded lettuce and ¼ tomato. We had no problem getting a room together. There is a reason for mentioning this place. Corinne was the only woman. She got to use the shared and very hot bath last after the eight men!

Miyako

Rikuzentakata–Miyako 98 km, 1:26 hrs

Jodogahama View from Jōdogahama-Aonodōkutsu, CC BY SA Wikipedia

We left from a place where a car could pull over. The funny thing is that the Japanese don’t seem to care where they stop. They just blocked the road anyway!

We got a lift from some young people, who were much more effusive than typical Japanese. Entering a car is like being a guest in a Japanese house. They offered each of us a soft drink!

Many women in smaller towns walk around in kimonos. In cities, it has become a status symbol because they are expensive. Miyako is the city that was devastated by the 40.5 m (133 ft) tsunami waves during the 2011 Tōhoku tsunami.

Jodogahama

Miyako–Jodogahama 6 km, 0:15 hrs

Jodogahama Beach, CC BY SA Wikipedia

Jodogahama Beach (G4.4) is just outside of Miyako. From the bus stop, we continued on a small road winding down to the beach. We enjoyed the good viewpoint before the descent. The formations are nice, a spine of sharp rock with trees on top.

We stayed in a ryokan that was also a youth hostel (YH). There was no difference from other private homes we’ve stayed at — tatami mats, futons, and comforters.

We had a very nice supper with several pieces of octopus, two small cooked fish, very good soup, and shredded white radish (daikon). Other guests seemed to be served about the same thing, but with very nice china, sake and beer.

Just east of the YH, there was a good supermarket. It had a very large selection of food, including sushi and ready-to-eat meals. There were free tasters (pickles?). This is how we ate lunch most of the time in Japan. We often ate breakfast and supper at the youth hostels.

Sanriku Fukkō National Park

Website: Sanriku Fukkō National Park

Twisted Pine, Masaki Cape, Miyako Jodogahama 90-11

I was adding the places in my diary to our custom Google map. I could not find Rikuchu Kaigan National Park (NP). In 2013, Rikuchu Kaigan NP and Kinkasan Island were incorporated into Sanriku Fukkō National Park. This was a result of the reconstruction of the coast in the aftermath of the 2011 Tōhoku tsunami.

They also built the Michinoku Trail, a 1,025 km coastal walk. You do not have to do the whole 50-day track. The most scenic parts to walk or drive to are:

• Jodogahama Beach, Miyako – dramatic volcanic rock formations and crystal-clear waters;
• Kitayamazaki Cliffs, Tanohata – towering 200 m above the ocean;

Sanno-iwa Rocks

Miyako–Sannoiwa 16 km, 0:22 hrs

Oonori Susumo, 23 yo, Kitayamazaki, 90-20

On September 26th, we got one of our most incredible lifts after only waiting 6 minutes! Oomori was driving his father north of Taro to go fishing. He had nothing else to do, so he offered to guide us up the coast. He just graduated from marketing and was selling insurance.

If it wasn’t for Oomori, we wouldn’t have seen very much. From the road, you see very little of the coast – just occasional glimpses. Oomori took us to places not mentioned in our guidebook.

We first went to the Sanno-iwa Rocks (G4.3) in Taro. San means three, and iwa means rock. The Sanno-iwa (Three Kings) viewpoint at the beginning was okay, but the view from the end of the road, going to the right, was superb. The wide-open view of the rugged coastline was highlighted by a twisted pine tree atop a rock island. The beautifully sunny day added to the enjoyment.

Bare Nose Rock, Miyako Jodogahama, 90-13

He also took us on a narrow side road underneath a cliff, leading to some beaches and a campground. These must be crowded in summer. We drove ca. 25 minutes north of Cape Masaki to a pull-off viewpoint of Kumen Hana (Bare Nose Rock) sticking out of the water.

Unosu Dangai Cliffs

Miyako–Unosu Dangai 41 km, 1:05 hrs

Unosu Dangai Viewpoint, Miyako Jodogahama, 90-16

On the left was a long view of a rugged, undulating shoreline with 200 m high Unosu Dangai Cliffs (G4.3). Unosu means “cormorant’s nest”. The cliffs are nesting sites for sea cormorants, eagles, and ospreys.

Unosu Dangai Cove, Miyako Jodogahama, 90-15

It was a beautiful day with blue skies and water! We took another side road to Unosu Dangai precipice. From the end of the road, we walked on a gravel track through tall trees, quite tall considering there was a forest fire 30 years before. This was a good place for a picnic without views of a semicircular cove dotted with a few rock islands.

Kitayamazaki

Miyako–Kitayamazaki 63 km, 1:50 hrs

Arches in Rock, Kitayamazaki

Next, we drove a toll road to Kitayamazaki. The first part was not special, but we saw huge dikes built to protect against tsunami waves! The viewpoint high atop the cliffs was superb, taking in the rock formations. We walked down the stairs for 10 minutes for more views, especially one with towering cliffs, and the frothing waves smashed the protruding rocks. We walked down the very steep stairs to sea level. This was not really worthwhile, but we did appreciate the height of the rock formations.

Oirase

Kitayamazaki–Oirase 110 km, 1:37 hrs
Oirase–Choshio Falls 54 km, 1:08 h

On our three-month trip to Japan, we left the port of Hachinohe for Hokkaido (September 27). On our return (October 11), we took the 4-hour ferry to Aomori. We continued our journey through Tohoku, starting in Oirase.

We got a ride with a truck going to Towada-shi. The driver was very outgoing. It was amazing how we communicated without knowing each other’s language. We sang songs, including our national anthems. He brought us 19 km out of his way to the Oirase YH.

Oirase Stream Promenade

Oirase–Choshio Falls 54 km, 1:08 h
Website: Oirase Gorge ~ Nenokuchi Stream Walking Area

Oirase Stream Promenade Map

The 14 km Oirase River that flows out of Lake Towada-ko to Towada City. We walked a promenade along the mountain stream and saw many waterfalls and moss-covered rocks. In October, beautiful autumn leaves blanket the area. Ryuzu No Taki Falls is known for its gold foliage in autumn and reddish-purple azalea flowers in spring.

By 9:20 h, we arrived at Choshio Taki (waterfalls). Then we walked downstream back to Oirase YH. This is the only falls on the Oirase River itself. The other falls are on tributaries.

Choshio Taki is 7 meters high and 20 meters wide. It‘s a magnificent waterfall that is famous and infested with tourists! There were tour buses with chandeliers. But it was too soon for autumn colours.

Moss-Covered Rocks in River after Footbridge, Oirase, 91-24

We crossed a footbridge with beautiful moss-covered rocks in the stream (9:49 h).

Katsura Aerial Roots, Oirase, 91-25

We walked through katsura trees with thick aerial roots hanging down (10:49 h). There were several nice waterfalls on the way. We crossed a road bridge (2.4 km, 11:13 h).

For 30 minutes, we talked to Hidefumi Noro, who was painting some moss-covered rocks. He recommended Sugiya Onsen, a mixed sex hot spring pool in a very old, wooden building.

The Flow of Asura is a large area of moss-covered rocks strewn across the stream. It was pretty, but the lighting was dim (12:18 h). Again, we crossed over a bridge and passed under cliffs to Ishigedo (departed 12:46 h).

The Choshio Taki to Ishigedo trail was 7.4 km and took 3 hours elapsed.

Towada-Ko

Towada-Ko was more appealing than other Japanese lakes because of Cape Ogura with its cliffs and Nakayama. Unfortunately, it was not peak season for autumn colours. We checked out Kanhodai Lookout, which had a narrow view, and Hakka Toge, which had a wider view. Trees at this altitude are already in peak colour.

Towada-Hachimantai National Park

Car: Choshio Falls–Hachimantai 90 km, 1:55 hrs
Car: Tazawa-ko–Hachimantai 75 km, 1:36 h
Train: to Tazawa-ko; Bus: to Hachimantai

Onuma Pond

Autumn Reflections, Onuma, Hachimantai

From Tazawa-ko, we travelled on Highway 341, then turned east onto Highway 23. The first sight was Hachimantai Onuma (G4.5), a pond.

Red Maples & Golden Grass, Onuma, Hachimantai

The Onuma Campground was actually closed, so it was free. We followed the dirt road across from YH road, into a nice flat area near the pond, surrounded by beautiful trees and very quiet.

Autumn Reflections, Onuma, Hachimantai

We used the toilets at the museum. Before we went, the museum manager tried to tell us not to cook there in a rude manner. We ignored him.

Autumn Steam, Onuma, Hachimantai

Steam rises from the Goshogake Onsen (hot springs).

Goshogake Tamagawa Onsen Nature Trail

Goshogake-Tamagawa Onsen Trail Map

Since we did not have a car, we just stayed in the Goshogake Onsen area. Tamagawa Onsen was a 40-minute drive by car.

Goshogake Onsen

From the campground/YH road junction, it was 2 km or 20 minutes along the highway to a steaming onsen area on the right-hand side. The many tour buses all came at 10:00 h. People tried to photograph us!

Red Maples and Green Brook, Goshogake

We saw green moss next to a hot stream with red and green trees behind. Further south was Oname Motome (mud volcano), a short but continuous steam/hot water gusher. A Mud Volcano (泥火山) sign said something about 94.5°C. We assumed that was the hot spring temperature.

Oyunuma

Oyunuma Reflections, Goshogake

Oyunuma or Hot Water Pond was one of the best areas. Much of the beauty came from the autumn colours.

Steam and Maples, Oyunuma, 96-003

The trail around the lake was partly closed, but we went past the ropes until we reached the collapsed bridge.

Rocks in Steam, Oyunuma, Goshogake, 96-00

Rocks “floating” in the water and surrounded by steam, faded in and out of view.

Mud Pool, Goshogake

We walked through sulphurous fumes, but we got to see large bubbling mud pools.

Red Maples and Stream, Goshogake

We followed the Nakabōzu Central stream (中坊主) through a small autumn-coloured valley contrasted with green conifers (11:52 h).

Autumn Views, Oyunuma

We enjoyed the brilliant autumn trees while we ate a snack on a picnic table.

Mud Pools and Maples, Goshogake

We found another mud pool that contrasted with the reds, golds and greens of the forest.

Hachimantai Aspite Line

View After Tunnel, Hachimantai

Hachimantai Aspite Line is only open from mid-May to October, due to snow. Highway 23 travels from the Goshogake Hot Springs to the Hachimantai-chojo bus stop (Hachimantai Summit Rest House).

Autumn Glory, Hachimantai Aspite Line

Aspite Line Road had the nicest autumn colours we’ve seen so far. There were several places where streams passed through beautiful autumn colours.

Hachimantai-Gentamori Walk

Hachimantai Nature Trail Map

We got off at the large parking lot at Hachimantai Chojo bus stop, which is very high up and has good views. We arrived at 12:30.

The Hachimantai–Gentamori Walk is a scenic loop trail that begins at the Hachimantai Summit Rest House and winds through volcanic landscapes, alpine marshes, and panoramic viewpoints.

Autumn Views, Goshogake

The starting point is obvious, but there was no sign for Gentamori (only a map in Kanji). We walked to a WC (9 minutes), then took the left-hand trail (11 minutes). to Hachimannuma Pond, a crater lake formed about 6,000 years ago.

Before the pond, see a small lake to the right and below. Continue gently uphill to the platform overlooking this small green pond. From here, we took the right-hand trail towards a hut and along the lake. We came to a junction with another map. We continued straight to Gentamori.

Hachimantai Resources

Autumn Leaves: Peak season is from late September to late October, depending on elevation:

High elevations like Mt. Akita-Komagatake start turning colour in late September.

Mid-elevation areas such as the Hachimantai Aspite Line usually peak in early to mid-October.

Lower elevations, like the Matsukawa River and Nanataki Falls, reach their peak around mid to late October.

Goshogake-Tamagawa Onsen Trail

Mount Hachimantai Nature Trail

Towada-Hachimantai National Park

Tazawa-Ko

Hachimantai–Tazawa-ko 75 km, 1:36 hrs

Near Sunset, Tazawa-ko

Lake Tazawa (Tazawa-ko), Japan’s deepest lake at 423 m. It is a caldera lake created by a massive volcanic eruption around 1.4 million years ago. Tazawa-Ko (G4.4) is prized by the Japanese, but we did not consider it that special. There was too much haze in the afternoon. But we saw a beautiful sunset over this massive lake with golden rays pouring over the rippled water. I used my new 500 mm lens for the first time to zoom in on the sun and the mountains silhouetted in amber light.

Sunset, Tazawa-ko

We ate great suppers at the Tazawa-Ko YH. We stayed two nights to do the Akita-Komagatake Hike. The first night we had very good Genghis Khan (lamb, bean sprouts, cabbage). Genghis Khan (Jingisukan) is a popular grilled lamb or mutton dish, especially beloved in Hokkaido. Despite the name, it’s a uniquely Japanese creation. The lamb is marinated in a soy-based sauce with garlic, ginger, and fruit juices, then grilled with vegetables like bean sprouts. The second night we had sukiyaki, lamb, and soya sauce with sugar, then dipped in raw egg!

Akita-Komagatake Hike

Drive: Tazawa-ko–Komagatake 25 km, 0:37 hrs
Length: 5.6 km (3.5 miles)
Gain: 359 m (1,177 ft)
Time: 2 to 3 hrs
Difficulty: Moderate
Open: June to October due to snow