Nestled at the southern end of the Grand Canal, Hangzhou is a city where ancient culture and modern cuisine intertwine. Famed for its relaxing West Lake—immortalized in countless paintings and legends—this former imperial capital offers more than just picture-perfect scenery.
From misty tea plantations in the Longjing hills to the rhythmic hum of silk looms and the quiet grace of centuries-old temples, Hangzhou invites travellers to slow down, sip tea, and discover the soul of Jiangnan province.
Join me as I wander through its willow-lined paths, savour its culinary treasures, and uncover the stories that make Hangzhou a timeless jewel and a must-see addition to your explorations.
Table of Contents
There is one post for Hangzhou, but you will need more than one day to see all the sights. We loved Hangzhou so much that we stayed for 11 nights. But that was also because we came twice, as we did the four-day hike up the famous Huangshan (mountain) in between.
This post is in geographic order. Simply do as much as you can in one day and then continue on the next day.
Author Notes
Hangzhou Itinerary
Xī Hú West Lake – the most green space of any Chinese city
Gushan Solitary Hill – packed with quiet courtyards, pavilions, culture and history
Yin and Yang Concept – Chinese philosophy that has permeated all of East Asia
Autumn Moon Over a Calm Lake – one of the top ten views of West Lake
Yue Fei Temple – learn about the celebrated general, Yue Fei
War has Consequences – the Jin-Song War led to the fall of China
Sān Tán Yīn Yuè – sip Longjing Tea beside ponds lined with lilies and pavilions
Lingyin Si – Buddhist temple (G4.6) with magnificent rock carvings
Longjing Tea – very famous Dragon Well tea, tea terraces
Nine Creek Trail – people picking, weighing, and carrying tea
Liuheta Pagoda – Six Harmonies Pagoda, built in 970 CE to calm river flooding
Hangzhou Shopping – silk, stamp collecting, porcelain teacups, writing paper…
Silk Trade Network – Hangzhou was one of the largest ports for the Silk Trade Network with Japan and Southeast Asia
Dujinsheng Brocade Museum – watch traditional silk brocade weaving
Amazing Facts about Silk – hint: Silkworms are not worms
Silk Brocade – elaborate designs woven on a loom
Hangzhou Cuisine – Zhejiang (province) is one of China’s Eight Great Cuisines
Hangzhou Opera – soft, lyrical, female‑led Zhejiang opera
Final Comments
Trip Planning – Addendum: Should I go to Hangzhou or Shanghai?
Author & Photographer: George Mitchell
George’s Bio
Our advice is not influenced by affiliate links — we have none. Our itineraries, photos, and advice come from three years of travelling around the world, including three months in Japan. We are avid hikers, nature lovers, and photographers. We are students of art and architecture, culture and cuisine.
All the sights in this itinerary can be found on our custom China South Map. The points of interest are appended with their Google Maps Ratings, which range from G0 to G5.
Hangzhou Itinerary
On June 6th, we took the train from Nanchang to Hangzhou, the capital of Zhejiang Province. A young man who spoke some English came to our train car and talked to us during the whole trip. He worked in foreign trade in Nanchang for 2.5 years.
He got married a year ago to a librarian in Hangzhou. He was returning to see his wife for the first time after one year. He met his wife at the station – they didn’t even show any affection – they just held hands!
Bicycle Rickshaw, Suzhou, China
It was very late and buses only ran between 5:30 and 21:30 hrs. in those years. Despite his personal situation, he cared enough to arrange a rickshaw for us to the hotel, negotiate the price, and insisted on accompanying us to the hotel.
It took 30 minutes of pedalling. When we got to the hotel, the driver wanted double the asking price. Our new, young friend told him off. That was absolutely amazing hospitality from someone who was a stranger.
Bicycle rickshaws have now become a rarity in big cities, replaced by electric vehicles and strict traffic regulations. But rickshaws still exist in smaller cities and less-developed areas. Some cities keep them in tourist areas as a nostalgic or cultural experience.
Hangzhou Fandian
Hangzhou Fandian, Hangzhou, China
This palatial Hangzhou Fandian hotel was a mix of Western and Chinese architecture. We believe it is now called the Hangzhou Overseas Chinese Hotel (杭州华侨饭店), located along West Lake. It had carved wood mouldings and superb carpeting. The quiet hotel came with very pleasant staff. Tea was provided in the morning.
Xī Hú West Lake
View from Baochu Pagoda, West Lake, Hangzhou, 69-23
Unlike many rapidly modernizing Chinese cities, Hangzhou remains rich in verdant green spaces and shimmering blue water. Hangzhou reminds us of Nara (Japan) because much of the sightseeing is done in the vast green space area, mostly free from cars and traffic.
Boy Reading, West Lake, Hangzhou
At its heart lies Xī Hú (West Lake G4.7), celebrated for its classical gardens, poetic vistas, and deep cultural heritage. This UNESCO site is celebrated for its harmony between nature and culture. The citizens take advantage of this green space to relax.
Erhu (Violin)
Playing Erhu, West Lake, Hangzhou
The instrument in our photo is an erhu (二胡), often called a Chinese violin by Westerners. It has only two (er in Pinyin) strings, tuned a fifth apart (usually the keys D and A). The man played this traditional Chinese bowed instrument vertically, resting it on his lap. He pressed the strings with his left hand and bowed with his right hand — but the bow was threaded between the strings.
What a special treat we had! The sound box is small and often covered with python skin, producing a mellow, expressive tone. This was one of the most evocative experiences — enjoying the ancient temples and natural scenery while listening to atmospheric music. For example of the music, run the Erhu soundtrack.
Gushan Solitary Hill
Bridge & Willows, Gushan, Hangzhou 69-20
As we walked along the north shore of West Lake, we paused often to take in some of the top Ten Scenes of West Lake. Both China and Japan love “Top Lists”. They have centuries‑old traditions of cataloguing scenic or culturally important places into fixed-number sets. These weren’t created for entertainment — they were aesthetic systems.
The [strong][em]Ten Scenes of West Lake[/em][/strong] have inspired countless poets, artists, and scholars throughout Chinese history. They represent not only the natural beauty but also the deep cultural connotations. The scenes are often depicted in traditional Chinese paintings and poetry, symbolizing the harmonious relationship between nature and people. This is a persistent theme in both Daoist philosophy and Shanshui art and landscape design.
Bamboo groves and graceful weeping willows lined the water’s edge and swayed gently in the breeze. Water reflections and distant hills added to the charm as we crossed the Bai Causeway, named Jindai Bridge (G4.5) on Google Maps.
This led to Gushan (孤山, “Solitary Hill”), packed with quiet courtyards, pavilions, culture and history. Gushan (G5.0) has been a cultural retreat since at least the Tang Dynasty, and is linked to famous poets, monks, and emperors.
West Lake, Hangzhou
Across the lake was the white Baochu Pagoda (G4.5). Climbing the stairs to the top, the pagoda wasn’t particularly interesting up close—mostly plain brick and fairly recent. But it offered a good aerial view of the lake to the southwest (photo above). A trail continued beyond, inviting further exploration.
Pavilion for Releasing Cranes, West Lake, Hangzhou, 69-19
We walked to the north side of Gushan to photograph the Pavilion for Releasing Cranes (G4.0). It is marked 放鹤亭 (Fanghe Ting) on Google Maps. The pavilion was built to honour Lin Hejing, a Northern Song Dynasty poet who lived in seclusion on Gushan. He became legendary for his life of quiet purity — tending plum blossoms and raising cranes.
The act of releasing cranes appears throughout Chinese poetry and painting as a metaphor for letting go of worldly concerns, spiritual freedom, and harmony with nature.
Lion Balustrade, West Lake, Hangzhou
This is not a simple guardrail. It is adorned with stone lions; this is significant. Lions (shíshī) are protectors of sacred or culturally important spaces. The Lion Balustrade elevates the pavilion into a semi‑sacred space, a reminder of the lake’s imperial and spiritual heritage.
Because West Lake is surrounded by major Buddhist sites, the lion also carries a Buddhist semantic layer: The Lion’s Roar is a powerful and fearless proclamation of the Dharma.
This scene also symbolizes the yin–yang balance of Daoism. Yin-Yang is a classic Chinese landscape design principle. Yin (water) symbolizes softness, adaptability, flow and change. West Lake’s beauty is often described as soft, feminine, and lyrical. Yang (lion) symbolizes strength, stability and permanence. Lions are auspicious creatures that ward off misfortune.
Yin and Yang Concept
Yin and Yang Symbol Public Domain
Daoism is a Chinese philosophy that has permeated all of East Asia. Just look at the Yin-Yang symbol embedded in the South Korean flag!
The Yin and Yang concept asserts the existence of cosmic principles or forces that are opposites but complementary. These forces interact, interconnect, support and perpetuate each other. Together they form a dynamic system in which the whole is greater than the parts. It is symbolized by the egg diagram above.
It is based on the principle of dualism. Yin (black) symbolizes the egg yolk, darkness, water, earth, and female characteristics. Yang (white) symbolizes egg white, sun, light, mountains, heaven, and male characteristics. Together, they express the dynamic balance of opposites in nature and life.
Autumn Moon Over a Calm Lake
Carved Door, Gushan, West Lake, Hangzhou, 66-36
This central door panel looks like a Zhou Dynasty niuzhong — a clapperless ritual bell (770–256 BC) used in ancient Chinese ceremonies. Zhou bells were used in ritual music during state ceremonies and Confucian rites. Displaying one evokes order, harmony, and reverence — key Confucian ideals.
The lower section includes chrysanthemums, a symbol of autumn and resilience in Chinese art. Gushan is a cultural hub known for its calligraphy, painting, and historical relics. It signals that the space is cultured, refined, and respectful of tradition.
The best vantage point was between two pagoda‑style pavilions—one of them the well‑known Autumn Moon Over a Calm Lake (originally named 平湖秋月, Píng Hú Qiū Yuè in Google Maps).
This is one of the [strong][em][strong][em]Ten Scenes of West Lake[/em][/strong][/em][/strong]. It is marked as Yuebo Pavilion on Google Maps. Everywhere we looked, people were taking photos. Professional photographers were busy too, offering portrait sessions against the shimmering backdrop.
Yue Fei Temple
| Fee | CNY 25 (USD 3.55) |
| Hrs | 07:30–17:30 |
Yue Fei Temple, Hangzhou, China
Inside the main hall of the Yue Fei Temple (G4,4) sat a striking statue: a purple‑robed figure. But it is not a deity. This was Yue Fei (1103–1142), a celebrated general. He commanded Song Dynasty forces against the Jin Dynasty during the Jin–Song Wars (1125–1234).
The colour purple has long been associated with loyalty, righteousness, and moral authority — all qualities attributed to Yue Fei. In Chinese culture, purple is a royal colour, but not imperial.
Yellow was historically reserved for the emperor alone. This is why the emperor’s robes were yellow, and why the Forbidden City and imperial temples are covered with yellow roof tiles. Though to us they looked more like orange.
Yue Fei’s victories brought the possibility of reclaiming the northern territories of the Song Dynasty lost to the Jin. But his success clashed with the political priorities of Qin Hui of the Southern Song court. Under pressure to negotiate peace, Qin Hui executed Yue Fei in 1142 on fabricated charges. His death became one of the dynasty’s most infamous betrayals.
War has Consequences
This history may seem meaningless to you. What is significant about these wars is that they weakened both sides. They allowed the Mongols to defeat and absorb the Jin Dynasty in 1205 and conquer the Song Dynasty in 1276.
This created the Yuan Dynasty, the first foreign-controlled (Mongol-led) dynasty of China. This was the second great era of the Silk Trade Routes. This was the era that Marco Polo visited. So this had a direct impact on all Western cultures.
Tomb Gate, Yue Fei Temple, Hangzhou
In the southwest corner of the complex, a small bridge crossed a green, algae‑covered pool and led to an elegant gate. Beyond it stood a row of statues and a burial mound marking the general’s tomb. By 1279, Yue Fei was widely seen as a folk hero and a symbol of loyalty and patriotism.
Recent History
The site has endured its own turbulence: during the Cultural Revolution, Red Guards ransacked Yue Fei’s tomb, leaving lasting scars on the memorial.
Baby, Yue Fei Temple, Hangzhou
This is our favourite photo of the quintessential Chinese baby with chubby cheeks. Don’t you just feel like squeezing them! Later that day, we met Jenny, a student of traditional Chinese medicine from Taiyuan. She joined us for dinner at Tien Wai Tien, adding another warm and unexpected human connection to a day steeped in history.
Hangzhou Botanical Gardens
Further past Yue Fei Temple lies the Hangzhou Botanical Garden – a large, scenic park, known for its diverse plant collections, tranquil landscapes, and proximity to Zhejiang University.
It is also the site of Shan Wai Shan (山外山), a well-known restaurant situated at 8 Yuquan Road. It offers traditional Hangzhou and South China cuisine in a serene, garden-like setting.
Hú Pàn Jū Teahouse (湖畔居茶楼) was one of the most famous lakeside teahouses (but not as esteemed today at G3.0) in the same general area as Shan Wai Shan. We enjoyed sitting in the nice wicker chairs, sipping Longjing tea with constant refills.
[strong]Sān Tán Yīn Yuè[/strong]
We took the pleasant boat ride (CNY 70) to Xiaoyingzhou, a man‑made island built in the Ming Dynasty. This is the site of the famous pavilion, Sān Tán Yīn Yuè (G4.5). Its name, 三潭印月, translates as Three Pools Mirroring the Moon.
Window Frame, San Tan Yin Yue, West Lake, Hangzhou
Sān Tán Yīn Yuè is famous for willow-lined paths, curving causeways, lotus ponds, and classical pavilions. The view from Woxinxiangyin Pavilion is the exact image printed on the back of China’s one‑yuan note.
San Tan Yin Yue, West Lake, Hangzhou
Three Pools Mirroring the Moon is one of West Lake’s most iconic ten scenic spots. The island’s interior pools were filled with lotus or water lilies—though not in bloom, their broad leaves still created a serene, textured landscape. On the southern side stood a large green pavilion where we sipped Longjing Tea, perfectly suited to the setting.
Mid Island Pavilion, West Lake, Hangzhou, 69-10
Just south of the island, three tiny stone pagodas rose from the water. We stopped briefly at a small restaurant for a popsicle. We passed the mid‑lake pavilion with its striking orange‑tiled roof as we headed home.
Lingyin Si Temple
| Fee | CNY 75 (USD 10.65)
= ¥45 for Feilai Feng
+ ¥30 for the temple |
| Hrs | 07:30–18:15 |
Bus Y2, 7, or 27: from Wulin Square, Wulinmen or Hubin to Lingyin Station; Fare ¥2–3; Travel Time: 30–40 minutes
Bus Y6: from Hangzhou East Railway Station to Lingyin Temple.
Lingyin Si Exterior, Hangzhou,
CC BY-SA (Wikimedia) Edited
Lingyin Si (靈隱寺) is a Buddhist temple (G4.6) with magnificent grotto rock carvings. It is located west of Xī Hú (West Lake). Lingyin Si literally means Temple (si) of the Soul’s Retreat.
It was founded in 328 CE during the Jin Dynasty by an Indian monk named Huili. During the Southern Song Dynasty, the monastery was regarded as one of the ten most important temples of the Chan sect. Chan is now better known by its Japanese name, Zen!
Sutra Pagoda
Pagoda, Lingyin Si, Hangzhou, China
The pagoda-like structures house sutra relics brought back by Huili. The pagodas are reliquaries, one of the purposes of the original stupa architectural form. The other purpose is to house the ashes of holy men. Elder Li’s Pagoda near the entrance houses the ashes of Huili.
Lingyin Si Interior, Hangzhou
There was a large Buddha inside the hall. But the gilded altar, bronze burner, and gold-painted columns were more interesting.
Four Heavenly Kings
Vaiśravaṇa, Lingyin Si, Hangzhou,
CC BY-SA (Wikimedia) Edited
The Hall of the Heavenly Kings (天王殿, Tiānwáng Diàn) houses large statues of the Four Heavenly Kings (G4.5). They are Guardians of the Buddhist Dharma (teachings) – protecting the world from negative influences and maintaining harmony in the universe through control of the cardinal directions — North, East, West, and South.
Vaiśravaṇa (Sanskrit for “Great Fame”) is the name of the chief king. Vaiśravaṇa is known as Duōwén Tiān in China or Bishamonten in Japan. He is the Guardian of the North and the leader of the yakṣas and rākṣasas. But why are there spirits in a non-theistic religion?
When the Chinese adopted Buddhism, they also accepted all the symbolism, mythology, and Indian literature that came with it. The Buddhists reinterpreted the animistic spirits, gods and even demons as protectors of the Buddha. They make sure that evil spirits don’t go through the gates and into the temple.
You would be wrong if you just think this is a colourful decorative statue; it is full of intentional symbolism. Vaiśravaṇa wears armour and a crown, showing his status as a celestial warrior-king. Shoulder flames symbolize his power and authority.
His right hand holds a spear or halberd, but it is topped by a miniature pagoda, not a blade. This is not a weapon for violence but a symbol of spiritual authority and wealth. It represents Vaiśravaṇa’s role as the guardian of the North and protector of the Dharma.
Carved Window, Lingyin Si, Hangzhou
The northwest circular window had a carving with birds against green trees outside. Cranes are common in Chan Buddhist temples because they symbolize transcendence and spiritual purity. Circular openings are linked to transcendence beyond the mundane world
Mahavira Hall, Lingyin Si, Hangzhou,
CC BY-SA (Wikimedia) Edited
Mahavira Hall (G4.5), with its 3-tiered roof, was photogenic but obstructed by too many trees. Two old-looking white pagodas with bas-relief stood on each side.
Many people were there, but some were more interested in us than in the temple. A priest was lighting joss sticks.
Feilai Feng Grottoes
Rock Carvings, Feilai Feng Grottoes, Hangzhou,
CC BY-SA (Wikimedia) Edited
Across the stream were many carvings directly into the limestone cliff face. These carvings date from the Five Dynasties to Song and Yuan periods (10th–14th centuries). It was an extraordinary open‑air gallery of early Chinese Buddhist art.
Plump Budai, Feilai Feng Grottoes, Hangzhou
Crowds gathered around what many tourists call the “Laughing Buddha”. Wrong! This carving depicts Budai (also known as Hotei in Japan), a popular historical figure often mistaken for the Buddha.
Budai was a real Chinese monk who lived during the Later Liang Dynasty (d. 917 CE). The joyful expression, exposed belly, and relaxed posture are classic Budai traits. He symbolizes abundance, joy, and generosity. The surrounding figures—likely monks or disciples—highlight his role as a revered spiritual teacher.
His name means “Cloth Sack,” referring to the bag he always carried (look at his left hand). Known for his cheerful demeanour, Budai wandered from town to town, spreading joy, playing with children, and offering small gifts from his bag. He is considered an incarnation of Maitreya, the future Buddha.
Naughty Tourist sitting on Bodhisattva Rock Carving, Feilai Feng Grottoes, Hangzhou
This carving appears to represent a bodhisattva — likely Avalokiteshvara (Guanyin or Kannon in Japan) — rather than the historical Buddha. The figure sits in a relaxed, almost casual posture with one leg extended, a pose commonly associated with bodhisattvas who stay in the world to help sentient beings.
The elaborate adornments on the torso and head further distinguish the figure from the simplicity of monastic imagery, emphasizing divine grace rather than renunciation. Unfortunately, some Chinese did not respect the need to preserve these monuments.
Naughty Tourist Climbing Rock Carvings,
Feilai Feng Grottoes, Hangzhou
The temple complex surrounding the grottoes has endured turbulent times. During the Cultural Revolution, the grounds suffered extensive damage at the hands of the Red Guards. A planned full destruction of the temple in 1966 was narrowly averted when university students barricaded the halls, preserving at least part of this historic site.
But what the Red Guards couldn’t do, these tourists tried hard to continue. This was many years ago. Hopefully, this practice is now discontinued.
Longjing Tea
Bus 27: for several stops, then climb the stairs.
Longjing Dragon Well, Hangzhou
Longjing (or Dragon Well) is a very famous tea. In the 17th century, Emperor Kangxi granted the tea the status of Gòngchá. The word Gòng means contribution or tribute, and Chá (茶) means tea. This means the province had to give the tribute tea for free to the emperor. Today, 250 g of Longjing sells for CAD 20-40 on Amazon (brands like Oriarm, FullChea and Valley of Tea Dragon Well).
We looked at the well below the tiled dragon that gave the name to the tea. Pure water is important for producing an excellent tea. Dragons are the protectors of water. In Asia, the dragon (naga) is a deity linked with water. Since rain is critical to agriculture, the dragon symbolizes abundance. Dragons are the ultimate symbol of the emperor in Chinese culture.
Longjing is a green tea that is pan‑roasted. It has a toasted chestnut aroma and a smooth, creamy texture. We stopped to have this floral and delicate tea.
Longjing Tea Terraces, Hangzhou,
CC BY-SA (Wikimedia) Edited
We walked up the path behind the well. Soon, we came out of the forest to hillside tea terraces and views.
We continued through an overgrown path to emerge on a ridge with open views all around, especially into the valley. It started to rain, so we had to return.
Nine Creek Trail
Nine Creek Hamlet, Hangzhou, China
Our guidebook told us the road down from Longjing Well was the best part of a visit to Hangzhou, so we came here again to do the Nine Creek Hamlet walk (G4.6).
We passed very old buildings, all with broken white plaster, some with wood carving. We saw typical village life — women washing vegetables in the creek, children playing with boats, and women washing clothes or shoes. Everything was done in the same water in 1982.
Nine Creek Road, Hangzhou
The trail continued gently downhill on a cobblestone track. with flat stone blocks laid across the many streams for easy crossing. Dense forest gave way to tea plantations.
Tea Pickers Filling Baskets, Nine Creek Road, Hangzhou,
Many women were picking, weighing, and carrying tea. Others stopped for a food break. I took some photos.
Shy Tea Picker, Nine Creek Road, Hangzhou
Then they wanted me to take a separate photo of each woman. Some were shy. They gave us their Chinese addresses.
Smiling Tea Picker, Nine Creek Road, Hangzhou
They even suggested that they pretend they were picking the tea leaves. I don’t remember how we communicated with them. But it almost seemed like they had contact with tourists before.
Porters Carrying Tea Baskets, Nine Creek Road, Hangzhou
Along the road, we saw many Tiāofū — literally “carrying man” — who transport goods using a shoulder pole. In this case, the men were carrying the tea leaves. Luókuāng is a large, round bamboo basket used for collecting and transporting tea leaves. The baskets needed to be large but lightweight. Each loaded basket weighed 4.5–9 kg (10–20 lbs)!
P.S.: Do you know where the abbreviation lbs comes from? It originated from the Latin word libra, meaning scales! The full Latin phrase was libra pondo — a pound by weight. It was shortened in English to pounds.
3 Men Walking Nine Creek Road, Hangzhou
We stopped a woman pulling a cart and got three delicious, ripe red tomatoes. We passed a village at the end with rice paddies and buffaloes.
Dumpling Makers, Nine Creek Hamlet, 69-24
At Nine Creek Hamlet, we stopped for lunch and to our surprise, the food was very good. We had three dishes plus tea for CNY 3.50. The rest of the road was paved. It lacked the same atmosphere.
Liuheta Pagoda
| Fee | Adults: CNY 20 (USD 2.85)
Seniors: CNY 10 (USD 1.45)
Seniors > 70: free |
| Hrs | 07:30–17:30 |
Metro Line 1: Wulin Sq to Xianghu CNY 2-9
+ Bus: 4, 287, or 308 to Liuheta Station: Total 45 mins.
Liuheta Pagoda, Hangzhou
Liuheta (六和塔, Six Harmonies Pagoda G4.3) was originally built in the Northern Song Dynasty (970 CE) to calm the tidal bore of the Qiantang River. The river often floods during high tides.
In feng shui (literally “wind-water”), water is the most powerful and unpredictable force, symbolizing wealth, movement, and danger. Placing a 13-story, stable pagoda at a river bend is a classic feng shui practice. It anchors turbulent water energy by stabilizing the qi flow along the river. It protects nearby settlements.
The pagoda is octagonal, matching the Bagua, the core symbol of feng shui used to map energy fields.
Its name, Liuhe, literally means “Six Harmonies”; in other words, the four cardinal directions, the zenith, and the nadir. This is a cosmological concept of universal harmony, aligning perfectly with feng shui’s goal of balancing heaven, earth, and humanity.
Hangzhou Shopping
Post Office & Philatelic Store
| Hrs | 07:30–18:00 |
| Address | Not sure: may have been Yan’an, Wulin Square or Jiefang Road branch |
Summer Palace Stamp 1956, China
This is just one of a set of stamps we bought, displaying Beijing’s ancient architectural attractions – this one is the Summer Palace from the Qing Dynasty. These stamps, dating from 1956, use exquisite engraving and printmaking techniques.
The main hobby in China is stamp collecting! There were tens of Chinese people either looking or buying stamps. Here, it paid to be foreigners as we were given attention first.
Silk Brocade Stamp Album, China
Now we understand why we could easily buy many decades-old commemorative stamps at the post office. We even bought a beautiful silk brocade-covered stamp album with a protective sleeve! Note the red panda on the cover. The album has typical cardstock pages with polyester sleeves to hold the stamps. This was an incredible buy.
Crafts
Girl Studying, 3rd Floor Dept Store, Hangzhou
Hangzhou is a great place to look at or buy crafts and gifts. For school kids, it was a place to study. There are many silk shops on Hubin Lu just north of Jiefang. There were tourist shops with high-quality silk and other crafts from the province of Zhejiang.
Dragon Teacups on Silk Brocade Tablecloth from Hangzhou
We bought our huge, embroidered silk tablecloth and a set of covered porcelain teacups with dragons. Other things to look for were a beautiful writing paper pad with tiny Chinese prints in the right-hand corner, and Qingdao beer from Shantung Province. Especially good were the White Rabbit candies made with milk.
Silk Trade Network
Silk Routes Map 1st Century CE, Kaidor
Hangzhou was one of the critical hubs of the Silk Trade Network, serving as both a production center for silk and a port city that connected China to the wider world. Its role was not peripheral—it was a keystone in the eastern terminus of the Silk Roads, especially during the Tang and Song dynasties.
Hangzhou earned the title “House of Silk” because sericulture in the region dates back over 4,700 years, to the Neolithic Liangzhu culture. This deep tradition made it a natural center for the silk trade.
When Hangzhou became the capital of the Southern Song Dynasty (1127–1279), it was transformed into one of the world’s largest cities, with over one million inhabitants. This made it a bustling hub for merchants, artisans, and foreign traders.
Located on the East China Sea, Hangzhou became one of China’s largest ports as early as the Three Kingdoms Period (220–280 CE). Its maritime connections allowed goods to flow not only inland but across Asia and beyond.
The city wasn’t just about commerce. It became a melting pot of religions, art, and ideas, as travellers from across Eurasia brought influences that shaped Hangzhou’s cosmopolitan identity.
Silk was the star commodity, but Hangzhou also exported tea, porcelain, and lacquerware, all highly prized in Central Asia, the Middle East, and Europe. Exotic goods like spices, precious stones, and textiles from India, Persia, and Arabia flowed into Hangzhou, enriching local markets and culture.
Marco Polo described Hangzhou as “the City of Heaven, the most beautiful and magnificent in the world,” underscoring its reputation as a jewel of the Silk Roads.
Dujinsheng Brocade Museum
| Fee | free |
| Hrs | 08:30–17:00 |
| Address | 519 Fengqi Road |
Cranes in the Pines, Silk Brocade, Hangzhou
Our diary called it the Hangzhou Silk Brocade Factory, but there is no such place on Google Maps. AI says that it is almost certainly the Dujinsheng Silk Weaving Factory (杜锦生丝织厂) today. The factory, founded in 1922, is famous for Hangzhou brocade. The Dujinsheng Silk Brocade Museum was later built inside this same factory complex.
The museum is dedicated to brocade weaving, with exhibits, looms, and demonstrations. We observed traditional brocade weaving and learned about the craftsmanship behind it. Here we bought some of the best silk artifacts.
Amazing Facts about Silk
Mulberry Leaves filled with Silkworms
- Silk production began over 5,000 years ago in China.
- Silkworms are caterpillars — not worms. They are the larval stage of the silk moth Bombyx mori.
- Silkworms only eat mulberry leaves.
- Silkworms secrete liquid silk from glands near their mouths, which hardens into a filament when exposed to air.
- Silkworms spin their cocoons from one continuous filament, which can stretch nearly a full kilometre.
- From 2640 BC until ca. 200 BC, only the imperial family and nobility were allowed to wear silk.
- The secrets of sericulture were hidden from the West on pain of death for centuries, but were given freely to its neighbours, Goryeo (Korea) and Japan.
Silk Brocade
Silk Brocade is a fabric with elaborate designs woven on a loom. It produces a fabric with a raised floral or figured design.
A guide brought us to one shop where silk thread was twisted by automatic machines onto spools. She brought us to another shop where brocade was woven by programmed machines. She pointed out the English language signs.
Chinese Silk Tablecloth, Hangzhou Brocade Factory
There were some nice things in the store at the same prices as elsewhere — wall hangings, tablecloths, and pillowcases with peacocks.
Hangzhou Cuisine
It is not every place that one of the top attractions is the cuisine. Hangzhou is located in the province of Zhejiang, which is widely regarded as one of China’s [strong][em]Eight Great Cuisines[/em][/strong]. Zhejiang places an emphasis on freshness, seasonal ingredients, and subtle flavours.
I am not going to recommend names of restaurants, as the food scene has changed since our trip. As always, use the Google Map rating to decide how great a restaurant is. These are the ones recommended by AI for authentic Zhejiang cuisine, appended by their very high Google Map ratings:
— Jiexianglou (G4.9),
— Grandma’s Home (G4.9),
— Green Tea Restaurant (G4.7),
— Grandma’s Kitchen (G4.6), and
— Dongyishun (G4.5)
DongPo Pork, Hangzhou,
CC BY-SA (Wikimedia) Edited
Dongpo Pork is made from pork belly that is pan‑fried and then slow‑braised (“red‑cooked”). The buttery layers of fat and lean meat melt in your mouth. The result is tender, juicy meat with a fragrant Shaoxing wine and soy aroma.
Shaoxing Wine (shàoxīngjiǔ) is made from glutinous rice, water, and a small amount of wheat-based yeast. It has a dark amber colour and a mildly sweet, fragrant aroma. One of the oldest forms of rice wine, it dates back over 2000 years.
Lóngjǐng Xiārén Prawns, Hangzhou,
CC BY-SA (Wikimedia) Edited
We loved the delicate taste of Lóngjǐng Xiārén (龙井虾仁) — Shrimp with Longjing Tea. It is one of Hangzhou’s most iconic dishes, combining tender white shrimp with the delicate aroma of Longjing tea. The dish is stir-fried over extreme heat with boiling water infused with Longjing tea and Shaoxing (rice) wine.
Māo’ěrduo tāngmiàn (猫耳朵汤面) — we loved Cat’s Ears Noodle Soup so much, we had it a few times. Cat’s ears are handmade by cutting the dough into small cubes and pressing each piece with a finger or chopstick, so it curls into a cupped shape. The rustic dish is slightly chewy from the ham, shrimp and greens added to the noodles.
Suan Cai pork stew, Hangzhou, CC BY-SA (Wikimedia) Edited
We loved the Suān Cài(酸菜) soup. Suān Cài is a traditional Chinese fermented vegetable, usually made from napa cabbage or mustard greens. It is used to make classic soups like Suān Cài Egg Soup with ginger and scallions. This tangy and savoury dish is more associated with northern and southwestern China.
We loved the Three Fresh Delicacies (三鲜). This dish had vegetables, ham, shrimp, and pork on a huge 15” platter.
West Lake Eel with Noodles (西湖鳝丝面) is a classic Hangzhou noodle dish featuring freshwater eel from the West Lake. This dish is rich, savoury, and aromatic with a soy‑wine glaze. The handmade noodles absorb the sauce beautifully.
West Lake Vinegar Fish, Hangzhou, CC BY-SA (Wikimedia) Edited
West Lake Vinegar Fish melted in our mouths. We loved it so much we had it a couple of times. It is a traditional Hangzhou dish made from whole carp that is poached and then covered with a sweet‑and‑sour vinegar glaze. It is considered one of the signature dishes of Zhejiang cuisine. The dish is sweet and sour — from the sugar and vinegar glaze. The fish is so tender and delicate. The subtle sauce and slight crab flavour are hallmarks of this dish.
Other traditional dishes of Zhejiang are:
- Cong Bao Hui (葱包烩) — flaky and aromatic, scallion-stuffed pancakes;
- Deep‑Fried Tofu Skin Rings (油炸豆腐皮圈) — crunchy, savoury snack made from tofu skin;
- Pian’er Chuan (片儿川) — noodles with bamboo shoots, pickled vegetables, and pork slices;
- Zhi Wei Xiao Long (知味小笼) — Hangzhou small steamed buns;
Hangzhou Opera
Victory Theatre, 279 Yan’an Rd
We got very good tickets from CITS at the hotel for the opera. Victory Theatre still hosts Yue Opera (越剧) and other stage performances. Yue Opera is a soft, lyrical, female‑led Zhejiang opera.
It was a very interesting story of man’s greed for power. There was a lot of killing. At the end, as he grasped for ultimate power, he was killed by the heroine. This was a story of corruption and intrigue — quite different from the more famous operas based on famous romantic stories like Butterfly Lovers, Peacock Flies Southeast, and Dream of the Red Chamber.
No drinks were served during intermission — just popsicles! It was very hot! The performance ended at 22:30 hrs, and no buses were running, so we had to walk home (to our hotel). It was nice and quiet. Young couples were sitting on every bench!
Other Posts on China
Below are the detailed posts that describe aspects of China. Read the Demystifying the Chinese Language post to learn how to pronounce Mandarin (pinyin) names.
Chengde Should Be on Your Travel Bucket List
Myths & Mysteries of the Great Wall
3 Hidden Gems of Chengdu
From Past to Pagoda: Chinese Gems
Mind-Blowing Facts About China
Xi’an: Treasures That Transformed China
Final Comments
Wander through its willow-lined paths, savour its culinary treasures, and uncover the stories that make Hangzhou a timeless jewel and a must-see addition to your explorations.
Surprising Fact for Today
When Marco Polo visited Hangzhou in the 13th century, he called it “the finest and most splendid city in the world”. For more surprising facts, read Mind-Blowing Facts About China That Will Change Your View.
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Trip Planning
The next sections will help you plan and tailor the itinerary for your trip.
Resources
China South Map, our custom Google map
Should I go to Hangzhou or Shanghai?
Hangzhou is a much better city to visit. Busy Shanghai, with 30.5 million people, is a global megacity with nonstop traffic, nightlife, and dense urban energy. Hangzhou, with 12.6 million people, is significantly quieter than Shanghai. This is especially true since most of the tourist sights are along Xī Hú (West Lake) or in natural surroundings to the southwest.
Hangzhou is a bit less polluted city with an AQI of 94 compared to Shanghai with 106. The worst months are December to February (winter) due to temperature inversions and increased heating. These cities still burn coal for energy.
Hangzhou vs. Shanghai Accommodation
Hangzhou is a much better value place to visit than Shanghai. Hangzhou is about 40 to 150% cheaper, as can be seen by the price comparison table below. Prices are given in Chinese Yuan (CNY or ¥) per night.
| Category | Hangzhou | Shanghai |
|---|
| Budget | ¥106–190 | ¥150–300 |
| Mid‑Range | ¥300–700 | ¥697–1204 |
| High‑End | ¥800–1500 | ¥1204–2210+ |
When is the best time to visit [strong]China?[/strong]
The best time to visit China is during spring (April–May) and autumn (September–October), when the weather is mild. Note that the weather in mountain regions is always cooler.
| Months | Comments |
|---|
| Dec–Feb | Budget-friendly, fewer tourists
Avoid northern China due to the cold |
| Mar–May | Mild temperatures, blooming flowers, fewer crowds |
| Jun–Aug | Hot and humid, crowded tourist sites
Avoid July–August in major cities, inland areas
and Southern China, due to the heat and crowds |
| Sep–Nov | Clear skies, comfortable weather, vibrant foliage |
Hangzhou Weather
The average elevation in Hangzhou is 42 m (138 ft). Also note that the temperature shown is the average high temperature for several months. The transitional months will be cooler/warmer.
| Season | Temp | Temp | Rain | Rain |
|---|
| Months | °C | °F | mm | in. |
|---|
| Dec–Feb | 9.7° | 49.4° | 49.6 | 2.0 |
| Mar–May | 20.7° | 69.2° | 107.5 | 4.2 |
| Jun–Aug | 31.3° | 88.4° | 156.3 | 6.2 |
| Sep–Nov | 22.7° | 72.8° | 75.6 | 3.0 |
Is there overtourism in China?
Yes — Over-tourism and overcrowding are increasingly pressing issues in China, especially during peak travel periods like Golden Week and major holidays. Iconic destinations like the Great Wall, Beijing’s Happy Valley amusement park, and other cultural landmarks are often overwhelmed by crowds during holidays. Over 10 million tourists visit the Badaling section of the Great Wall each year. Aging infrastructure and limited crowd control measures are struggling to keep pace with demand.
| Holiday | Approx. Dates | Comments |
|---|
| Chinese New Year | Jan 28 – Feb 3 | Largest annual migration in the world as people return home to celebrate with family. Transportation packed |
| Qingming Festival | April 4–6 | Families travel to ancestral homes; Regional transport and rural areas may be congested |
| Labor Day | May 1–5 | Major cities and scenic areas see high foot traffic |
| Dragon Boat Festival | June 6–8 | Moderate crowding in festival zones and scenic spots |
| Golden Week | Oct 1–7 | mass domestic travel; attractions hit full capacity, transportation is heavily booked, and prices spike |
The vast majority of tourism is domestic, ca. 90%! Domestic tourism is the primary driver of China’s travel economy, supported by a large middle class and strong internal mobility. All cities are overcrowded, even without tourism.
[strong][strong]Transportation[/strong][/strong]
We travelled mainly by train but sometimes by bus or boat. Use the Rome2Rio or Trip.com app if you are planning local trips within or to China.
Rental Cars
China does NOT recognize International Driving Permits (IDPs). You can’t drive with just your foreign license. To legally drive, you need a Chinese driver’s license — either a temporary permit or a full license. Driving in China can be intense: traffic, signage, and parking systems are often unfamiliar. Many payments (e.g., tolls, parking) need QR code apps like Alipay or WeChat Pay.
Trains
The two most popular Chinese train booking apps are the official 12306.cn app (limited English) and the international-friendly Trip.com (multi-lingual). Bullet trains offer comfortable seating, digital ticketing, and English signage on most major routes.
Other Modes of Travel
Buses connect nearly every city, town, and village, often reaching places trains don’t. Buses are essential in rural and mountainous regions, offering affordable access to heritage towns and scenic routes. Public transit and taxis are cheap, efficient, and widely recommended for short-term visitors.
Travel Times and Distances
Here are some road and high-speed train distances and travel times for this blog.
| Route | Road | Rd | Tr | Train |
|---|
| Hangzhou to | km | hrs | hrs | Cost CNY |
|---|
| Beijing | 1237 | 12:46 | 4:32 | 560–610 |
| Suzhou | 142 | 1:38 | 1:35 | 94–184 |
| Shanghai | 171 | 1:53 | 1:15 | 60–90? |
| Guilin | 1288 | 13:08 | 8:02 | 620–670 |
Other Posts You May Like
Travel Tips and Culture Guides
Here are some additional posts on China’s culture. While the posts on Buddhism were written about other countries, the terms and concepts are basically the same throughout the world.
Cracking the Code: Demystifying Chinese
From Ideas To Inventions: Dive Into Dynasties
Guide to Thai Buddhism
Buddhist Terms & Symbolism
Google Maps Ratings
Google Maps provides a rating from 0 to 5 for all sights, hotels, and restaurants (but not cities). All our recommendations are accompanied by a rating (prefixed with a G) from Google Maps. Google Ratings are based on feedback from locals as well as tourists. They are much more reliable than travel booking websites or tourist anecdotes. We consider a score of 4 to 4.39 to be Very Good and 4.4 to 5 to be Excellent.
All photos and text © Terra Encounters
except where noted CC BY-SA (Creative Commons Wikipedia)
Asia Encounters is a subsidiary of Terra Encounters
Packed up and ready to roll out.
The best photo I've ever taken with my Canon. "Sams House" | Highway 395, Eastern Sierra Nevada
"The Nomad" | Captured by Kimber
Sunset at Pahranagat Wildlife Preserve, Nevada
Sizing up Thor's Hammer @ Bryce Canyon NP | Captured by Kimber
Having a conversation with a chipmunk @ Bryce Canyon NP
Dispersed camping above Torrey, Utah
You can't beat the view out of this bathroom window...
An exceptional photo by Kimber of me driving through Capitol Gorge
Mesa formation in Colorado with layers of sandstone cliffs.
Good morning, nature!
My first campsite in Colorado did NOT suck!
A stunning and refreshing blue pool in Deep Creek (Colorado)
Live music: best when shared with your best friend...
...under the stars.
